Sig Morrisey Bravo Build
07-25-2017, 05:48 PM
#851
"Hey Vincent", I already said your going to have a mighty fine airplane, I should have said beautiful and the shine is that of a jewel. Very nice hardly sums it up, don't know how else to put it
Leroy
PS for others too, a 1 liter pop bottle full of water holds a cowl real nice.
Leroy
PS for others too, a 1 liter pop bottle full of water holds a cowl real nice.
Last edited by Leroy Gardner; 07-25-2017 at 05:53 PM.
07-28-2017, 02:16 AM
#854
Thread Starter
Yesterday while I was shooting the last bit of white, I made a slight change in how much thinner I mix with the paint and I like the results much better, (I cut down the amount of reducer I add by half).
Example: 1oz. part A + 1oz. part B + 1/2oz. reducer
Today, I will fill the cup of my spray gun with red! Oh boy...
Example: 1oz. part A + 1oz. part B + 1/2oz. reducer
Today, I will fill the cup of my spray gun with red! Oh boy...
Last edited by VincentJ; 07-28-2017 at 02:26 AM.
07-28-2017, 09:00 AM
#856
Thread Starter
I did Tom thanks!
Spent quite a bit of time taping and masking off the fuselage this morning before I mixed the paint. 3M Vinyl Tape was used for sharp crisp lines. I always remove the tape about an hour or two after I spray. You have to play it by ear, if you pull the tape and and the paint strings like hot cheese on a pizza it's too early to pull. If you wait a bit longer the paint will cure enough so that doesn't happen.
Tape Tip: I usually use the 3M Scotch Blue Painters Tape for general purpose taping when masking off large areas, but did you know about the different type of adhesive strengths? I like to use the low adhesive tape on my plane's surface as it less likely not to pull the covering (or paint) off the wood substrate. You can tell the strength by looking on the inside cardboard roll of tape. It can be purchase in Low, Medium, and High adhesive strength, the Low is a bit harder to find, most rolls of tape are Medium. Now you know...
Spent quite a bit of time taping and masking off the fuselage this morning before I mixed the paint. 3M Vinyl Tape was used for sharp crisp lines. I always remove the tape about an hour or two after I spray. You have to play it by ear, if you pull the tape and and the paint strings like hot cheese on a pizza it's too early to pull. If you wait a bit longer the paint will cure enough so that doesn't happen.
Tape Tip: I usually use the 3M Scotch Blue Painters Tape for general purpose taping when masking off large areas, but did you know about the different type of adhesive strengths? I like to use the low adhesive tape on my plane's surface as it less likely not to pull the covering (or paint) off the wood substrate. You can tell the strength by looking on the inside cardboard roll of tape. It can be purchase in Low, Medium, and High adhesive strength, the Low is a bit harder to find, most rolls of tape are Medium. Now you know...
Last edited by VincentJ; 07-29-2017 at 01:17 AM.
07-28-2017, 10:48 AM
#857
Some reds are very pretty, yours is one of them, I like the way they react to light, the real color in direct sun light and show deeper color in shadows and over cast skies. I could wait and see but are you going to put a thin line between the two colors, gold maybe ?.
BTW I had no idea how large your cowl is, impressive.
At any rate it's looking mighty fine.
Leroy
BTW I had no idea how large your cowl is, impressive.
At any rate it's looking mighty fine.
Leroy
Last edited by Leroy Gardner; 07-28-2017 at 10:52 AM.
07-29-2017, 01:45 AM
#859
Thread Starter
Thanks Leroy and Tom. I like the way it has turned out as well.
To answer your question Leroy about the pin striping between the white and red, I am modeling this Bravo after Hazel Sig's paint scheme (red and white). If one is trying to faithfully replicate the paint on this plane you only have two options, one being red and white, the other silver and white. Before Hazel took ownership of the Bravo, Bill Morrisey had painted it silver and white. There is pin striping on this plane but it's red and black. No doubt though, that gold would have been a good accent color.
To answer your question Leroy about the pin striping between the white and red, I am modeling this Bravo after Hazel Sig's paint scheme (red and white). If one is trying to faithfully replicate the paint on this plane you only have two options, one being red and white, the other silver and white. Before Hazel took ownership of the Bravo, Bill Morrisey had painted it silver and white. There is pin striping on this plane but it's red and black. No doubt though, that gold would have been a good accent color.
07-29-2017, 07:19 AM
#861
Thread Starter
I will be adding a graphics package, just not the decals provided in the kit Tom. They will all be reproduced in vinyl,but will be identical to the decals.
07-29-2017, 03:13 PM
#862
07-31-2017, 09:29 AM
#865
Thread Starter
Why thank you Tom, from an old master such as yourself that's quite a compliment! I 'm almost done with the painting. I will assemble the fuse then I will direct my attention to the wing. Still lots of work to do there...
Last edited by VincentJ; 08-01-2017 at 02:05 AM.
07-31-2017, 02:36 PM
#866
Thread Starter
Rudder hinges have been epoxied, and I installed the I.P. with hook and loop tape should it need to be removed at a later date. This is the first I.P. that I made and installed in any of my planes...
Last edited by VincentJ; 07-31-2017 at 02:38 PM.
08-01-2017, 11:36 AM
#869
Thread Starter
I want to show you how I am increasing the air flow into the carburetor. As you can see in Photo 1 there is only 5/8" between the carb and firewall, I much prefer to see a gap of around 1 inch. There are many ways to solve this problem, the easiest way of which would have been to have factored it early in the build and set the firewall back a bit and use a longer engine standoff. Too late for that! I have also seen others create a trough so to speak into the firewall to gain more airflow. One could even let the carb draw air through the inside of the fuselage, but that would require a vent in the fuse. I knew it was going to be a problem so I tried to come up with a different more elegant solution.
On the bottom of the cowl on the original Bravo you will find a cowl scoop that directs air into the engine's carb, so I thought, boy won't it be cool to have a functioning cowl scoop. Alas my idea was thwarted when I had to cut out that portion of the cowl for the exhaust system. So here is my plan "B"...
Photos 2-3 here is the ducting that I made up to solve my problem.
You can see I just moved the inlet on the firewall directly inline with the cowl's front opening. I think this will work well!
On the bottom of the cowl on the original Bravo you will find a cowl scoop that directs air into the engine's carb, so I thought, boy won't it be cool to have a functioning cowl scoop. Alas my idea was thwarted when I had to cut out that portion of the cowl for the exhaust system. So here is my plan "B"...
Photos 2-3 here is the ducting that I made up to solve my problem.
You can see I just moved the inlet on the firewall directly inline with the cowl's front opening. I think this will work well!
Last edited by VincentJ; 08-02-2017 at 01:42 AM.
08-02-2017, 04:30 AM
#871
Thread Starter
Tony, I've used Klass Kote paint on several of my builds. I love the way it sprays and lays down, it has never clogged the tip on my gun. All of the pictures that I have taken give a good representation on the kind or results you can expect.
Don't over thin the paint as it will run if your not careful. Make sure that you wear a good mask to protect your lungs as well. Be sure to wait at least 30 minutes after mixing Part A with Part B, this is called the induction period. Stir the paint often during this time. After the induction period has expired, you can add your thinner/reducer to the mix. Clean your gun thoroughly after you are done spraying, any dried epoxy paint left on the gun won't come off!
The best tip though that I can offer is this; before spraying on your model, gain your confidence by spraying on a test piece until you get the hang of how it lays and how quickly to move your gun. You will quickly become comfortable and then you can commit on the actual plane without fear of getting runs. It's worth the extra bit of paint, and speaking of paint, make sure you mix a bit more than you think you'll need to finish the job...
Don't over thin the paint as it will run if your not careful. Make sure that you wear a good mask to protect your lungs as well. Be sure to wait at least 30 minutes after mixing Part A with Part B, this is called the induction period. Stir the paint often during this time. After the induction period has expired, you can add your thinner/reducer to the mix. Clean your gun thoroughly after you are done spraying, any dried epoxy paint left on the gun won't come off!
The best tip though that I can offer is this; before spraying on your model, gain your confidence by spraying on a test piece until you get the hang of how it lays and how quickly to move your gun. You will quickly become comfortable and then you can commit on the actual plane without fear of getting runs. It's worth the extra bit of paint, and speaking of paint, make sure you mix a bit more than you think you'll need to finish the job...
Last edited by VincentJ; 08-03-2017 at 02:25 AM.
08-03-2017, 01:09 PM
#873
Thread Starter
Set up the elevator linkage to the servo and got it operational with my Tx! Linkage was made using 4-40 rod with heavy duty ball links on each end. Tail cone and light completed as well... I think I can add the pin stripes next.
Last edited by VincentJ; 08-03-2017 at 01:49 PM.
08-04-2017, 07:12 AM
#874
Thread Starter
Here are some pictures with the black pin striping done (I used 3M 1/16" vinyl striping tape). Off to find some red striping tape at the auto center! Feed back welcome...