Scottpuck

Thanks guys. That is what I thought.

I was just a little worried about the "space" between the rib and where the sheeting met. The kits I have built to date all feature a solid TE that butt up against the ribs for extra strength. Since this kit does not have this feature, I thought I may be missing something - but I am by all means not an expert builder.

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Well, my kit's been ordered. Should start construction on it hopefully around the middle part of next week. Gotta get my garage/shop situated and a bench planned out. Currently the only workbench I have doensn't have a perfectly level surface and I told myself I'm not building any more planes on the coffee table. Received some advice to try using a hollow door as a bench, figure I can fab up some legs/supports for it easy enough. I think I may even have an extra door to use, so that'll work. Regardless, I'll be reading through this thread (again) as I progress. The one thing I want to do but am just not sure about is change the wing assembly in order to incorporate the skylight at the top of the cabin. I guess I've got some time yet to think about it.

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

I think cruzmissle did that mod. Check the earlier parts of this thread.

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

You're right, he did, that's what got me thinking about it. I guess I just need to have the fuselage on the bench to really understand how the dual plywood spars tie into the fuselage for strength and how the wings would be secured to the spars.

cruzmissile

I had to cut a copy of the w2 rib and epoxy that to the fuselage. I'm hoping my engineering thoughts on this will hold up, so far I've had the wing tips held off the ground and I bounced the plane a little to feel for resistance or any cracking at the joint there. So far no stress cracks have been found. The real test is when I get it flying.

Stickmaster

My Feedback: (22)

Hello
I Have ponderd through the postings and have enjoyed the thread. Here are a few of my first one. I have a second kit ready to build same quadra 35cc powerplant as the first. [sm=surprised.gif]

qballdmd

I'm setting up the pushrods for my elevators and I decided to use carbon fiber and threaded 4-40 rod. I bought a size that would allow a passive fit into the end of the rod. I was wondering what adhesive would secure it best - CA or epoxy ? It seems to be a very smooth surface and I don't need failure of my elevators from debonding. Should I scuff the inside of the tube, or drill small retentive holes crossways and then flow CA in or just use some epoxy? The instructions for the kit didn't really say what was best. (Or it did and I completely missed it.)

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Well I've found my first gripe. My own fault for not planning it out better I guess, but I'm down to building the second elevator half and need to lay down a strip of 15/16" x 3/8" balsa for the elevator leading edge. Problem is, I don't have a piece long enough. I have two pieces left over from previous usage of the wood to put together, but that makes me nervous about strength. I'm thinking if I cut them at an angle for more surface area and piece them together I would never have to worry about it, but part of me thinks I should just head to the hobby shop and pick up a new piece. Then again, with my luck HTU won't have 15/16" x 3/8" balsa anyway.

What do y'all think? Thanks.

Stickmaster

My Feedback: (22)

OH .....

15/16 that's almost a whole, do you have a 1"x3/8 laying around or something to make up the distance? Shouldn't take much so sand a 1/16 off . If not splice as you noted and align with the doublers towards the fues. I would bet the stab could be ripped off and that spot wouldn't fail.[X(] It would be great if they would use a standard piece of wood

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Nah, don't have any 1" x 3/8" to substitute, but I agree that would work also. I think I'm just going to mend two pieces together and make sure I get a good CA bond between them. Probably run a thin sheet of something right behind the seam as well as added reinforcement.

Rudder, fin, stab, and one elevator half down, tons more to go. [8D]

beepee

Cobra99,

Do it. I had the same challenge and made the same angled splice. No problem.

Bedford

mRqS

haha.. I thought I was the only one which had to do this

Richardrc

I ordered Decathlon yesterday. I want to order the G38 with B&B's spring starter, but noticed the starter requires his engine mount which must push the engine forward. Does anyone know if it will fit within the cowel? What is the max distance from firewall to spinner backplate?

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Well that settles it then. Thanks guys. [8D]

Richard, sorry I haven't gotten that far in the build to tell you about engine clearances. Hopefully I'll be there within a couple weeks.

Speaking of that, I need to order an engine (also going G-38).

Richardrc

Can you get a measure from your plans?

Stickmaster

My Feedback: (22)

This might help..... I have seen people cut a hole in the firewall for the spring starter.

beepee

Richardrc,

My Quadra 42 with spring starter and cup mount fits fine directly against the firewall. If you don't use the cup mount on your Zenoah, you are going to have a problem finding a home for the rear mounted muffler anyway. I don't think there is a tinker's dam# of a difference between the Z38 and the Q42 dimensionally. As I recall, the back of the mount to the end of the prop hub is about 6-1/4". I did have to do some cutting of the cowl in the front to clear the cooling fins, but no problem.

Good luck!

Bedford

Richardrc

Thanks to you all. I now have kit and G38 with spring starter and cup mount. Time to start building.

Richard

Richardrc

What is good way to mount the G38? Is the plan system sufficient for this engine? Looks like it will be very tight for legth also. Is there some play in cowel to bring foreward should I need a little extra?

Richard

lt-40 flier

My Feedback: (1)

I have the kit and have not pruchased an engine yet. Does anyone know how the plane balances with a G26? I know the 38 is the same price but the 26 saves a lot of weight.

Stickmaster

My Feedback: (22)

I haven't used that motor before, beepee said there is very little difference than a Quadra or US engine. I would invert the motor the cowl is narrow, as for the cowl this plane is a fun scale so moving the cowl forward if needed wont hurt, they make a fiberglass cowl that is far better than the one in the kit as the kit cowl is like gluing two bleach bottles tougher.

Stickmaster

My Feedback: (22)

OK out on a limb I go...[:-]

I looked up the weight of this motor the difference is a around a pound less than the g38.

After finishing my model with a Quadra 35 I needed no added or dead weight. The design is for countering the weight of the motor by placing the 3 servos and battery pack towards the tail. With the g26 you might need to move the servos and pack forward to keep the cg. after framing the plane out, move them in the fues and find there placement.

Richardrc

Forgot to mention the G38 has the spring starter and cup mount from B&B. Any mounting suggestions would be appreciated.

Richard

beepee

Your G38 with spring starter and cup mount will fit fine.

I see no benefit to running the G26 as the balance is going to work out with the G38.

Bedford

Lcraig231

My Feedback: (23)

Has anyone tried the US Engines 25cc in this plane ?
If so how does it fly.



Lynn