krossk

My Feedback: (27)

CafeenMan,
That's what I was trying to speculate with my earlier post with the horizontal hole pattern to try to minimize the spans running cross-grain.
Thanks for clearing that up.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

If that's the total rib weight, you're right, it may not be worth messing with.

Deadeye

Well, I've got this back on the building board after working on my CAP 21 for a week or so. I ordered the large (120 size) Du-Bro iso mount for this thing, thinking I could go with a Magnum 120 someday, but the darn mount is too big! It interferes with the cabane mounts on the firewall. I guess I will keep it for a future project. I guess I should go with the J-Tec mount they show on the plans. According to Tower, the J-Tec mount is made for a OS 120, and it looks like the mounting holes are pre drilled. Is this right? Anybody have suggestions for an alaternative iso mount?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I just used the stock mount with a few strips of rubber (Cut from an innertube) between the mount and the firewall.

Deadeye

That would be a helluva lot cheaper. How do you figure that works compared to an 'iso' mount? I would imagine the innertube needs to be replaced once in a while.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Well, obviously it's not as good as an Iso mount, but it's better than nothing, and I've had some in place for over 10 years without replacing. In fact, I've never replaced one.

Deadeye

Been a while since I have updated this thread. The Skybolt has been on the back burner while trying to finish my Byron's CAP-21. I added a hatch to access the fuel tank. Screws are accessible from the front of the firewall, and the rear of the hatch uses a tab. I'll be getting busy with this again in the next coupla weeks...assuming I'm not repairing the CAP...

Deadeye

I've got major construction done. Only things left to glue on are tail feathers, bottom wing fuselage fairing, and cutting the cowl. It doesn't mention fiberglassing the wings in the manual. Should I do it anyway? I've got a nice fit between the horizontal and fuselage, is Titebond OK to use here? That's all I've used so far, but maybe some 30 minute epoxy would be better here?

I am most impressed with the outer struts locking mechanism, and how everything lined up so square and true. It takes a bit of work to get the cabane wires bent just right to line up the top wing, but once you have that done, everything else just falls into place. This thing is really starting to look good. I love the lines on this plane. It's so sleek, it looks like it's flying 100 MPH just sitting on the work table.

I'm not going to use the ABS wheel pants, as I fly off of grass. I did read the article in MAN last month about 'building your own wheel pants' out of balsa and ply. I wonder if they would last longer than ABS or fiberglass pants? Seems almost a crime to not put wheel pants on this slick, sexy bipe; but why bother if they will just rip off in a few flights? Opinions?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I used mine on grass, you may have to tighten them up now and then, but I never broke them. I've even had them loosen up and spin a few times on some landings, still no major breakage. I say go for it!

prossa

Nothing can beat a greased landing.........oh.............the..........pride!

I've found the best way to grease it is lots of sim time and then just go do it!!!

Grease the landings and then you never have to worry about the wheel pants until the next breezy day, or the next time you forget to switch your transmitter to the proper model, or the reciever quits on you, or a clevis comes off of your control horn or........

you get the idea.

BTW: I really like your hatch; it looks super! I'd also glass the center section of the wings; I've done that to all of my planes after I watched a guys wings fold in have and I had a plane take a hard landing only to find a crack in the monokote in the wing center. They were poorly glued. Once glassed the rest of the plane will fall apart before the glassed section does.

Deadeye

Last night, I did the final assembly before covering to balance her latterly. I got a Magnum 120 to power her, and she balances perfectly (CG) without any added weight. However, when I went to do the lateral balance, it looks like I need 1.5 oz of lead in the right wing tip in order for her to balance. That seems like a heck of a lot of weight to add! The engine mounts about 1/4 - 3/8 of an inch off center of the firewall, to compensate for the right thrust. I really hate to add dead weight like that, but see no other choice. It took me several hours to cut out my lattice work, with a weight savings of 3.9 oz in the tail, and now I have to add a 1.5 oz hunk of lead to it! ARRGGHH! Anybody have a better suggestion? If I add weight, should I put it in the top or bottom wing tip?