acerc

Oh, I almost forgot. Don't use primer over open structures. It get's to hard for the flexing of the fabric. And that's not just my opinion but every paint manufacturer's answer as well.

ripmax33

so 2 coats of the base paint should be enough? if i decide to make it in common colour scheme yellow. i don't wish to show the frame under direct light conditions doesn't look scale to me in that way.

regards
Daniel

WacoNut

Daniel,
Yellow does not cover well, you will need to put a coat of silver or white on before the Yellow. I covered my 33% Cub with Cub Yellow Solartex and it was too transparent. I wound up adding 3-4 coats of paint and it helped but you can still see thru it. If I were to do it over again I would spray a good base coat of silver of white to help with the transparency.
Later!!
Anthony

ripmax33

thanks anthony! i have some green aircraft primer similar to zinc chromate (epoxy) based) do you think is good as a base coat?


regards
Daniel

WacoNut

I woudn't. Green will not cover very well with Yellow.
I would try to get silver, gray or white.
Later!!
Anthony

ripmax33

hmmm.... i see, maybe it will be good for dark colours. thanks for the advice

regards
Daniel

GrantL

My Feedback: (3)

Guys, I could use some advise.. I'm covering my Cub in WorldTex... also know as Solartex.. the Worldtex is a flat Cub Yellow ... Are you guys clear coating these or leaving them flat Cub Yellow?

Not sure what to do..

Thanks

Cub Flyer Fresno

I was planning on using Solartex but going with the natural and then painting it so that I don't have color matching problems.  I have seen one Cub with "pre-painted" covering.  It was flat and it looked fine.  In my opinion it's whatever tickles your fancy.

This is a good question.  What does everyone else think?

VincentJ

I think I remember some fellows at my clubusing Solartex and the problem they had was that it stained easily. I have never used it personally and I don't know if putting a clear finish atop of the Solartex would prevent the staining. Gas or Glow?

GrantL

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Guys.. Spoke with my auto body paint guy today and he called in his paint rep and they have matched the Worldtex paint for painting the cowling.. Since I fly elec, he's going to shot a coat of clear coat on the completed cub.. Don't think I'd be happy with the flat WorldTex color..

WacoNut

Grant before going too far take a good look at the Worldtex. I covered my 33% J-3 with Cub Yellow Solartex and was very unhappy with how transparent the covering was. I wound up painting the whole plane as you could see every bit of the structure thru the covering. I had latex mixed to match the Solartex and sprayed several coats and it helped but did not fully cure the issue. If I had to do it over again I would have used natural color Solartex and painted the plane silver then yellow. Then again if I were to do it all over I would just use Koverall and save myself alot of $$$.

Good Luck!!
Anthony

swixtt

agreed, i would really have a look at Koverall. i did mine this way and was super happy with the strength of that product. shrinks beautifully and will again take most any paint. i ended up doing spraycan and then cleared it with TopFlite clear as i am running the OS Gemini

VincentJ

Nice I just opened my 1/4 scale cub kit!

WacoNut

swixtt, Nice paint scheme

jkr_1100

My Feedback: (15)

Vincentj I just opened my clipped wing cub. I am very excited.

VincentJ

jkr_1100 -that's great more builds! (Mine is also the clipped wing.) Starting mine in the morning.

WacoNut

Don't forget to post pics of the builds.
Have Fun!!
Anthony

GrantL

My Feedback: (3)

Yup, I noticed that on the rudder and elevator after I covered them... I choose Worldtex to get away from painting it..

Thanks

VincentJ

Here are some pics of my Christmas Cub build. First picture is showing how I took the better part of an hour sorting out some of the lumber in managable piles. One thing I wish kits included were rolled plans not folded plans. Sometimes the seams get in the way of parts laying flat. Rest of the pictures are of my fusalage. More pics lateras I progress.

WacoNut

Vincent,
It is looking good, don't forget to add the gussets.

When I have folded plans I try to iron the creases flat. It does a pretty good job of getting them out.
Later!!
Anthony

VincentJ

Anthony,thanks for the tip on the iron, I will try it. Tomorrow I will finish the fuselage sides and add the gussets. Will post pics. Feels good to cut balsa again,

WacoNut

I just noticed we have the same square and clamps.
I like the square as you can take the scale out of it and use the base to get inbetween ribs to set them square to the board.
Later!!
Anthony

VincentJ

Those clamps are great, I prefer them to the standard c-clamp. You can never have enough of them.
Well I thought I would be done with the fuse panels tonight but I was wrong. I did manage to fill in the rest of the warren truss portion of the fuse and give it all a good first sanding on both sides with 150 grit. I am very pleased with the final product. My goal was to get as tight of a fit between each piece and I think you can see that they came out well enough. I have found that making the gussets requires a lot more time than I thought! I will have to go to my LHS to pick up some supplies forthe door and window mods.

WacoNut

Nice tight joints,
If I remember right I cut my gussets out with a pair of scissors. I then cut out the slot on my band saw.
Later!!
Anthony

acerc

I know it's early for a head's up. But will suggest anyway. Make a piece of 1/64 lightply to fit around the window opening's for the window to fit in from the inside. The plan's call for attatchment to the outside of the finished airframe, pg29. Also on the front dihedral brace (by the book pg 16 & 17) the outer wing panel's are complete which leaves no way to clamp the the brace while the epoxy dries. I left a small section on the bottom uncovered so as to place the clamp's.
At least those were issue's to me. Your fuse frame look's good and tight. Nice work!