Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

I deceided to build this kit over the Sig 4* because of the tricycle landing gear. Kit arrived two weeks ago and I'm almost done with the gluing portion. Should be another 3 weeks of sanding, trimming, re-sanding...you know how it is! I am making several modifications to the original plans, so this should get very interesting. This is my 2nd kit and my building skills are improving. Hopefully the results of this project will be worthly of a post on RCU. The mods are:

1. Carving a cowl out of balsa sheeting & tri-stock. I got the idea from a post on rc universe. RCM ran and article explaining exactly how to do it in 2000. I'm in the process of doing that now. Pictures will be posted shortly.

2. The tric gear was the main reason I got the kit was so it's strange that I'm converting it the a tail-dragger.

3. Wheel pants will also be a nice touch.

4. Dual aeleron servos vs the standard one suggested by the kit.

5. Pull-Pull rudder system

6. Adding flaperons. I upgraded TX to a VG6000 & am itching to try this new feature.

If anyone has any suggestions please post them.

Thx

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

I just maidened my T2 (tail-dragger and dual aileron servos) 2 weeks ago. (Pics in my gallery / avatar). This is one terrific flying plane - you can't help but love flying it. I had never flown a low wing or a tail-dragger and did the maiden myself. It tracked straight and just floated off the ground. The only trim adjustment was t clicks of down elevator. I've found that the recommended control throws were pretty conservative. I now have my elevator low rates set to the factory hi throws and increased the high rates another 3/8" total. And I will probably increase the aileron throw as well. You probably won't need the flaperons. It slows down nicely and floats right in. I hadn't thought about wheel pants - might be a nice touch. I'll be looking for the pics...

nickj

The Tiger 2 is an easy flyer, especially with the trike gear, although I wouldn't expect conventional gear to be a problem either. The tail on the plane seemed a little weak to me, especially when the vertical stab separated from the fuse in mid-flight. Use the heaviest, stiffest balsa stick in the kit for the tailpost. Mine broke right at the top of the fuse.

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

[X(]!!!! I heard alot of guys who built this kit say that the tail surface area needed to be increased+beefed up but I didn't think is was mandatory. Thx, I'm going back into the balsa box to beef it up some more.

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

Just took a peek at your tiger. The toy pilots were a nice touch. Now I think I'm going to the toy store and decapitating some action figures for mine. Thx for the reply

GoMike

Hey LawnDart - a few comments from my kit-build and flying for the past two years:

Balsa cowl: Go for it. I laid my OS 70FS to the side and built a cowl around it and it looks great.
Tail dragger: Go for it. I put my mains in the wing ahead of the spar and tilted them forward (wheels right under the wing LE).
Wheel pants: Go for it. I didn't, but I bet they'll look great.
Dual aileron servos: Maybe. I originally had a single servo per the plans and it worked well. I converted to two separate servos in the center of the wing with flaperons, etc. and I'm a little happier with it, but I'm not jumping up and down about it.
Pull-pull rudder: What's the use? It has such a small rudder (it's not a 3D plane) that any old setup will do. I made my rudder 1/2 inch bigger and the stock push-pull system is plenty enough for that. Exreme throws barely hold it level in knife-edge flight.
Flaperons: See "Dual ailerons servos" above.

My suggestions:
1. Replace the ailerons torque rods with real 1/8" ones and glue them well into the ailerons - you'll never have the flutter problems I read about, even with one aileron servo - mine took many high-speed dives in stride.
2. If you'll put a heavy engine like my OS70FS on it, put the battery way back in the fuselage - just ahead of the tail surfaces so you don't have to use lead. I'll have to cut my covering away if I need to replace my battery, but it keeps the airplane light.
3. I Knocked half the dihedral off - it doesn't need it - it's not a trainer. You could even shorten each wing one rib bay and lessen its floating tendencies at landing speeds.
4. Mine came in at 5.5 lbs - lighter than the GP Ultra Sport I was flying at the time, and it showed.

Other observations:
- This plane has a thin wing - mine flies way fast WFO with an OS70FS and any prop I try (I've used APC 13x6, 14x5, 14x4).
- Keep the landing speed up. It'll come in pretty fast and float quite a ways, but if it gets a little too slow, it'll drop to the ground real quick. Fly it in to touchdown.
Enjoy it - it's much more pleasurable to fly than my Ultra Sport was and tracks like a dart. I think you'll really like it.

Hope this diatribe helps.

==Mike==

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

The Tigger heads came off of the top of children's shampoo bottles. I found them when my daughter was a baby and they were the inspiration for the (re)name and the covering scheme.

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

Quote:

Pull-pull rudder: What's the use? It has such a small rudder (it's not a 3D plane) that any old setup will do. I made my rudder 1/2 inch bigger and the stock push-pull system is plenty enough for that. Exreme throws barely hold it level in knife-edge flight.


I know the pull-pull ruddder would be over kill for this aircraft, but I actually enjoy building as much (or more than) flying. Always looking for an opportunity to diverge for the plans and try something new.

I'm planning on using an OS 46AX for the powerplant. From all of yout replys, I'll probably end up sliding my 61 in there. I'm still new to flying (3rd aircraft) and the power that thing puts out with any wingspan less 5 feet makes me kind of cautious.

Thx for all of your reply's. I'm done with rough work for the cowl. It didn't turn out as "great" as I expected. It might be passable when I monokote it.

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

I can fully relate. I'm adding pull-pull to both rudder and elevator on my Somethin' Extra. It really is pretty slick once you get the cable paths identified.

dickj

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with GoMIke with one exception. Put on a strong vertical tail piece of good quality wood and then brace the tail. Use tristock and wires. I knocked my tail off in a snap first thing. Of course I loved the Saito 91 engine combination and never spared the hp.

Flies great, could even be a trainer the way it flies.

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

I wish I would of came back and read the thread 6 hours ago before I covered the rudder.[] Won't fret though. I can always slice a small hole thru the covering and insert a dowl to add flying wires. Thanks for the warning though. Keep the suggestions coming. I've learned alot already! My new rule is to

1. Read the thread replys
2. Start building.

Have a quick question though. Anyone ever use the Sig Aerokote covering before? I've been using strictly monokote for years. This stuff was $5 cheaper at my LHS. Now I see why it was so cheap, the adheasive glue melts at such a low temp (220 Degrees). I don't know if its the melting temp of the glue quality, but if you're not careful it gets all over the surface you're covering. Anyone have a "fool proof" way of using this stuff?

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

I finally have the tail feathers sanded and ready for covering. I got the covering scheme from a guy off rc universe. It will look very similar. I liked the simplistic blend of colors.


I'm still contemplating what to put in the green area of the rudder (decal, tail number, etc.). Any suggestions?

nickj

I like it. Looks different. I'd keep it clean, you can always add decals later.

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

Quote:

Have a quick question though. Anyone ever use the Sig Aerokote covering before? I've been using strictly monokote for years. This stuff was $5 cheaper at my LHS. Now I see why it was so cheap, the adheasive glue melts at such a low temp (220 Degrees). I don't know if its the melting temp of the glue quality, but if you're not careful it gets all over the surface you're covering.

I take back the above comment. Aerokote far surpasses monokote in my opinion. Monokote is great for compound curves, but Aerokote is alot stronger and much easier to work with. I ran out of white Aerokote and had to use white Monokote to finish some of the wing. I was cursing within minutes. [:@]It just wouldn't tighten to the level that I needed. Finished it though, but i'm still cursing. I've offically crossed over the Aerokote. Anyone else have this same experience?

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

Pulled an all-nighter and got the wing covered. I've been working on my plane for 18 hours straight. It's 0430 here and I'm not tired at all. I go to work and I'm reaching for the coffee pot after 2 hours. This proves it. Time flys when you're having fun! Here's a few pics. The white is the top and the multi-colored will be the bottom. I was going for something simple yet unique. Reminds me of Mexico for some reason.....

jetnfast

My Feedback: (2)

Looks Like your Tiger is coming along nicely. I have had the ARF and the Kit, and they are both great planes, no bad habits whatsoever. Here is a picture of mine from flying this past weekend. I am pulling it around with an OS 46FX, and it moves out pretty good. Have fun finishing yours!

-Aaron

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

This is why I love kit building. I am now installing the servo tray for my tiger. As you can see the ply servo tray included in the kit is sub-par. So much so, that when I wanted to dry fit it into the fuse it snapped in two (see pics). I don't have to wait long for an excuse to Mod something. I took into account that I'm using high torque servos, with pull-pull control surfaces and came to the conclusion that the servo tray will be a stressed area. The solution (1/4" thick super strong ply) will add a little weight but at least when the tiger takes off I know that is one part that will not break (thats the T-R-S piece on the left). Check out the pics and you'll see what I'm talking about.

On a similar topic, this is a great looking and great flying aircraft (popular opinion), but the wood included in the kit is of horrid quality. I have decieded at the end of this build so submit a complete list (with pictures) of Mods and areas that I strenthened (I think I'm up to 22 now). The reason is, I'm hearing too many stories from guys who assembled the kits following the plans and had a rudder come off in a snap roll or some wood component failing. At least this way all the popular Mods will be cataloged in one place. Be on the look out!

Thx for all your replys,

Mods

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

I think I figured out what "style" decals to put on my tiger. The pilot says it all. Ebay is f@#$ing fantastic!

Mods-R-Me

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It's starting to look like an airplane.

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

Have most of the covering done. The balsa cowl didn't come out too bad for my 1st time. Next time, I'll paint the inside BEFORE fuel proofing it. Oh well, building is a constant learning process.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

She's lookin' mighty good!

TheParrot

Yeah looks really good. I like the intake right underneath the engine there, adds a different look to the plane.

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you all for the complements. I'm getting a little closer to a finished product with the installation of the pilot/canopy, flight control surfaces, and painting the landing main gear. I kept getting outbid for the speedy gonzales and was 2 seconds away from paying tower hobbies $25.00 for a pilot when I went patroling in the BX's toy section and found this guy. Few modifications later, WHAM! I've got a prepainted/finished pilot for only $4.88!

Not much to do now except the wheel pants. Wheel pants are my personal trademark. I usually cover them with the same color ultrakote in the plane. I then pick a color pattern/design that will tie the entire look of the plane together. I'll post pics in a few days.
If I keep on the same schedule, I expect to maiden Saturday. I'll post videos when I do.

Espresso-Outfitters

Good job guys, I know this is an old thread, so keeping it short, here is a photo of my Tiger 2 I built free hand from scratch, I had the original on my bench to take some measurments from, but as you can see, it's a whole new bird.

kydeer7301

My Feedback: (2)

Espresso - Looks great. Is that the "glow" version of the Tiger2 converted to electric? What are you powering it with?