redfox435cat

Well last weekend was really crummy weather wise, never got under 20MPH wind. So Iopened up my strike and started building. I though it insteresting seeing the other build threads and so I'll give it a go.


Obviously the first step is to open the box and lay everything out and read through the entire set of instructions.

next go back to page one and find the parts for the first few steps and cut them out. As always lanier laser cut parts are among the best

AS with every kit I build I alway wonder, Well will it fly or will it die, will I end up with a plane or a bird house.

redfox435cat

We start out with the fuse. sand the tabs and make sure the opposing sides are identical.
Lay some wax paper over the building board or you'll have a mess.

Glue the forward and aft fuse sides together.

next glue in formers F3 and F4 making sure they are square

redfox435cat

NOw take the other fuse side and fit it in the notches of F3 and F4. make sure it is square and glue into place. turn the fuse and role it all the way around making sure it is uniform. weird to me too but it's in the instructions

redfox435cat

Next comes the aft stab stringer
take the 3/8 stike and measure out 11 3/8 and cut it.

find the center of it it

meare out 1 1/2 inches from the center then 3/16th out from each one of those makes and 3/16 deep.

mark the notch and carefully cut them out

I should fit like a glove onto the rear of the fuse. luckly mine did
make sure it is stright and square. this is the stab so take your time

redfox435cat

Next come the hatch.

sand the formers to match the fuse sides

get both H1 and the H2 piece. cut out 2 pieces of wax paper 1 inch by the length of H1.

pin in both H1 pieces to the inside of the fuse between F3 and F4. fold the wax paper over what is to be the top of the fuse. I had to reshape the H1 peices since they didn't match the curve of the fuse.

Cut a pierce of 3/32 by 3 sheet 16 iches long.
glue this piece to the H1 pieces and only the H1 pieces matching the curve of the fuse

unpin and pull the hatch and glue in H2 at the aft end of the hatch

redfox435cat

the servo supports now go in

cut 4 pieces of 1/4 square spruce to 3 inches and glue them into the four opening according to the planes.
the two closest to the front of the fuse. measure out 1 inch from the right side and cut them. the second one from the front in Gusset 2

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

Looking good Redfox! Keep it coming. I've got one in the box and am currently flying the 10 size.
What engine and servos will you be using?
Have fun, MikeB

Tequesta

Hey WMB,

What was the final weight of your 10 size. I have an HP 21 4c I need a plane for. This one has interested me for awhile now.

John

redfox435cat

I actually had allot more coming just ran out of time to post it. work and great flying weather just get in the way. [8D]. yesterday was the best flying weather we've had in weeks
I'll just be putting a standard BB futaba flight pack in it. futtaba 3004s and DF127 reciever, going with dual aileron servos. and a thundertiger 46 with a tower muffler for power, been proven on my quicky stuff and expect the same on this

anyway.
next comes the firewall.
measure from the bottom 1.5 inches. find the center of the line and draw another perpendicular to it

line up the engine mount marks on the firewall and mark the bolt holes. drill em out to 1/8th inch

The KM mount recommended for the kit is about 1/10 of an inch to narrow for my engine so I had to widen it a smidgen. not a problem just time consuming. that what building is all about right[8D] I also cut off the nose gear tabs so I could move the engine back a hair further.

Apply the blind nuts tot he back of the firewall. It says to use epoxy to hold them in. I've always used thick CA.

get out the epoxy and glue in the firewall and clamp it in.

take the engine and find out if is the right length. The kit was designed around an OS LA or something smaller. My engine is exactly 3/8 longer. So I glued some 3/8 stick to the ends of the cheeks.

redfox435cat

Now we put together the nose.

Instead of cutting up the plans I stick them on my little copier for the parts I need to cut out.

figure out were your engine pushrod is going and drill it out now as well as the fuel line holes

Locate the 3/8 by 3 block. and cut out the upper and lower front blocks.

I again added 3/8 to the blocks to accommodate the engine going in. Put them to gether in front and sand so the contours match.
Glue them in to line up with the front. Make sure there is enough gap between the firewall and the bottom block for the engine mount.

Once glued in now cut and glue the triangle stock into the corners. This is for sanding the nose round. For the top triangles cut some knerfs into it so it will make the corner without snapping

redfox435cat

We sheet the fuse now.
all the bottom sheeting is put on cross grain. the top rear is put on with the grain.

once on sand the sides ecen with the fuse sides

redfox435cat

Now cut out the top nose block to accommodate the engine then mount the engine.

set former F1 so it centers around the crank shaft and sand the end to get about 1/16 gap between the spinner backplate and the former. Go a hair beyond 1/16 to accommodate the covering later.

once satisfied with the fit of the engine it's time to sand the hell out of it. I don't care much for sanding but oh well. get out rib 1 and trace around were it goes to give you an idea of were to stop rounding. the model is near true round at the spinner plate to square just past the firewall

once done you now have a balsa football

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

Tequesta, My .10 cam out at 33 oz. A little heavier than I was hoping for. I does fly well at that weight. It has Magnum 15, I would like to try the Norvel 25 on it.

Redfox, Keep it coming- great build!

Take care, MikeB

redfox435cat

My old .10 sized I put an OS fx 25 and was a full on rocket ship. foorgot thr weight on it though. Too bad I sold it when I got out of the hobby in 2000. course I gotta go bigger on this one