NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

Its comming along nice Goki,Im doing an arf by Tiger.I have a question,I bought some props from Hobby-Lobby made by Graupner and the shaft holes are to big for my 7mm shaft .Do they make some sort of bushings for props? I relocated the glow plug to the top of the wing because the 72 saito is very diffacult to get at. I also made a acsess door on the cowl in order to install the muffler pipe after the cowl is put on.You can also acsess the carb set screw for the needle valve exstention wire.Pardon my spelling im in my morning fog still.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Mike, beautiful job on the Cub! I noticed the scale details with the stabiliser and the lift handles. Are they includes with the kit or instructions as an add-on?
Sig has done their homework on this one and it shows. GP and Goldberg simply don't compare to the kit quality or the scale detail of this one. I've owned both and while the Gp was only slightly better than the Goldberg, neither were to scale outline and both built up heavy.
Looks like This will be my next kit and just when I was going to cut back, this thread comes along and.......now I've got to have one!
Keep posting those pics.
Cheers jollyroger

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Get some teflon pipe thread tape, and wrap the prop shaft where the prop sits. Just keep wrapping until you know there's too much, test fit the prop, and remove tape until the prop is a snug fit. It will perfectly center the prop on the shaft; then tighten the nut securely. I have used this method on every circumstance where the hole is bigger than the shaft, works great. If you change props, use a blade to split the tape to remove it.

Mike, glad to see the Cub so close to completion. I, too was wondering where you'd gone. It's looking great, you've done a very nice job. I also noticed the dummy H-stab trim mechanism and lift handle. Little details like that add a lot. I also saw you used Robart gear; you'll be happy to have a scale gear, they work great.

goldwaterman

Thanks Jollyroger! Those scale details are not in the Sig kit. I built in those after seeing kHodges wonderful L-4 Grasshopper conversion he built from the sig kit. If you haven't already seen his model, you'll want to check it out! The sig kit is well made and goes together smoothly. I'll build another one, Maybe as an L-4. Mike.

goldwaterman

Thanks, Ken. I have you to thank for the scale touches! I've still got the pictures you sent me, and they were a valued help! I've got the aluminum boot cowl to install, as well as some additional details. The gear is actually Wallace's. I'm looking forward to seeing it at the field with this gear on! I'll keep the posts up as I progress. Thanks again! Mike.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I should have noticed the difference, just didn't look close enough. I don't know how you did the "bungees", but you want them stiffer than you think they need to be. I use three rubber bands per side, each wrapped four times (top to bottom twice) I use the same size you hold trainer wings on, #64. The covers will still fit over them fine. These bands need to be checked each time you go to the field, glow fuel degrades them and they lose their elasticity after a while. If the gear overextends when you land, the center "v" strut will hit and it can be bent. Are you using the DuBro Cub wheels? They are the best, and will last forever.

What did you do to the tail surface hinges that you have to do them over? Looks like you didn't get them in quite far enough before the glue set, or something, there's quite a gap. I started using Pacer hinge glue and love it.

goldwaterman

Thanks! I was going to ask about the number of bands needed. I will make the change to the thicker bands.. Yes, the wheels are the Dubros. I used the pacer hinge glue, but i didn't get the dubro med. hinges in close enough! I'll re-do them instead of useing covering material to fill the gap. Mike.

goldwaterman

I installed an aluminum boot cowl on the piper cub. I used aluminum dryer exhaust vent material. I traced the cowl outline on drawing paper stock first. One side of the cowl at a time. Then transferred it to the aluminum sheet. Tape it down securely, then cut it out.

goldwaterman

After cutting out the boot cowl. Test fit and prebend around the lower corners of the nose. I made it to be a 1/4 inch overlap on the bottom, centered in the middle. Trim as needed for the look you desire. I used contact cement to hold it down, prior to drilling holes for the fasteners. Be sure to mark your centerline, or something. you need to have your work positioned exactly where you want it. Once you apply the cement you won't have any leeway for adjustment! Work the cowl on the top, and down the sides slowly. Sticking it to the fuselage. Then around the nose bottom.

goldwaterman

After tacking down the boot cowl. plan out your fastener layout. I used 1/2 x.18 brass brads cut to about 1/8 inch in length. drill pilot holes in the aluminum and install the fasteners. I used thick CA to adhere them to the balsa underneath. These brads have a nice semiscale appearance, although I've seen screws used. The end result is a nice scale touch to your Piper Cub. Special thanks to khodges for the tips on this project! Mike.

KitBuilder

what's the story on that remote glow connection in the earlier pics... can you provide some cliff notes... looks like a neat idea. Mike

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

Hi,Yeah sure,I picked this one up at hobby lobby.Since the ARF I bought is nearly impossible to add an interior,I figured I wouldnt bother with scale detail.If I went a few bucks more and got a hanger 9 instead of a thunder tiger I might have added detail because I love building detailed airplanes.Anyways I realy needed a relocated plug the saito is in a bad area to reach. So I thought putting it where I did would work out good.I had to reinforce the window with 16th bass sheeting. Now I also added some scoops onto the cowl too for air.originaly I was going to order dummy cylinders and make up a motor.
But now im just going to keep it plain with scoops. Do you think I could use a foam type material as a filter for the carb as in the picture.Or would the heat melt it and cause damage. I want to filter the carb but its in a tight place.

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

Wensday I had the pleasure of going to Polks hobbies warehouse and met with Mr. Gill who is the manager there.I asked for his advice on my boat im powering.He is a advid hobbiest he owns 40 boats 35 airplanes and outher Rc vehicles. I picked up a airplane kit the Foker DR 1. Mr. Gill designed this model for the price its not bad 112.00/I may get this flying before my cub just to get some practice.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Mike, you're more than welcome. What an awesome job! looks better than mine. I think that aluminum material you used is the same (?) maybe as the aluminum flashing material I used. If not, it's probably a gauge thinner, and even easier to work with. I learned a trick with this stuff since using it last, that is to anneal it with a torch to soften it a bit (changes the temper), makes it easier to bend without kinking it.

Can't wait to see the finished project.

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

That sure is a nice job your doing.I used aluminum from a spare dish washer pannel on my grumen f4f for the cowl. It had a baked on paint finish too. I wish someone would make a kit in mostly aluminum like the frame mainly. That would be cool to have ribs with cut outs made of aluminum.

goldwaterman

Thanks, Guys. It was a fun little diversion from my crazy life lately! I can't believe this Cub isn't in the air yet. Ken, I think this aluminum is thinner guage, yet stiffer. It would be easier to form had i put the heat to it. I changed out the bands on the Wallace landing gear to #64's BIG difference! Thanks again. Mike.

goldwaterman

I primed and painted the boot cowl. I used Cub yellow Lustrecote. This does not match the 21st century fabric i covered the airplane with, but i was out of cub yellow dope. So i went with it. I'll be building the two piece cowl next. Mike.

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

I think if you made an aluminum fire wall ,that would look cool.

goldwaterman

Yes, indeed! That would look nice in engine turned metal. Not much time for the model lately. But I'll get back to it. Mike.

SunDevilPilot

I just received my Sig 1/5 Cub and had a question. I am also using an OS 70 Surpass II but am going with a different mount. If I put the motor's carb within a millimeter of the firewall it will fit with no modifications. However, I was wondering if you adjusted the centerline of the motor when you moved the firewall back the 3/4 inch? Wouldn't this movement of the firewall effect the alignment of the motor? Specifically, the location of the prop in relation to the fuselage centerline. I believe the firewall has been marked for the original position and if this changes the motor alignment marks on the firewall would also change. I may try and mount mine inverted. I have another plane with the 70 and it runs perfect inverted.

Thanks,

SunDevilPilot

goldwaterman

Hello. Yes, I adjusted the motor mount for the 1-1/2 degrees of downthrust per the plans. I do have some concerns about the modification. But, hey. That's model building. This is a great kit. It builds well! Post some photos of your model as you progress, if you can. I was going to go inverted and build a dummy engine myself. I like the looks of the OS head, so I decided to just let it hang out ala Continental! Regards, Mike

gumhead

Im in the process of building this kit too! I have a OS 70 surpass II going in mine! It will be mounted sideways.
Almost done framing her up. I'll post some pics soon....

gumhead

ok time to bump this thread.
here's a pic of my 1/5th sig cubby...

goldwaterman

Nice Job! That's a really tight looking build! What are your plans for the covering scheme? Mike.

gumhead

yellow