Stormovic

My Feedback: (29)

1/16 is not going to make any diff. Dont worry about it.

davidgeorge212

Well I couldnt live with my mistake so I fiberglassed in the old holes I drilled, got a better motor mount and used the template to line up the motor exactly on the center.

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Hey Cub Fans - I cleaned out my hangar for some bigger stuff, but still like the J-3's. I bashed a GP Cub, (pictures included), and it was not to scale. Sold it. Ten feet away is good enough for me.
I have Cub fever again. Next week I will get a 1/5th scale Sig J-3, completely built, with fabric type covering. Built by expert builder. I know this is overkill, but I want to put a twin in it also, just like the other. Look at the picture included, this is a Saito 90T. Cowl from FG, upper and lower pieces, I made to fit.

I will have to get another cowl for this 1/5th Sig. No problem there, or just make one. What would any of you Cub expert's put up front for twin power ?

Crankpin

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

A twin has got to be the first choice, it looks and sounds so good. I ran a Magnum 70 FS on mine, which was way overkill, so as to turn a scale 14" prop. Of course, I never ran full throttle on it, and as it turned out, the plane flew better on a 13X6 than the 14X6. Go for a twin!

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

I flew a GP .40 Cub with an O.S. 70 surpas. More than enough power. ROG was almost STOL. When throttled back to 1/4 it would put-put around in scale speed. Everyone at the field loved it.

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

See my Saito 90T powered GP ARF above. I am not worried about power, I had to power down with this Cub. The Sig Cub has a little more mass then the GP. Thanks for the comments, I would like to see if anyone has used a Twin in their Sig 1/5th scale J#.

Thanks,
Vince
Hobe Sound, FL

davidgeorge212

So what is a good prop size for my O.S. 70 surpass II that is going in my j3 cub? Is everyone else just running like 13 or 14 x 6 props?

davidgeorge212

I think Im going to go with 14x6 props to start with.

david g.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

14 inch is scale diameter, 5 or 6 pitch is ideal for scale flight and performance.

Anybody in the Hickory NC area this weekend, we're having a swap meet at the Metro Center on Saturday. I'm selling my Sig L-4, needs repairs, but all servos (Futaba 3001) and receiver (139DP PCM) and Wallace gear and a MPI SuperGlo go with it (no engine). I figure the repairs could be done in a week or two (center section and wing roots, part of dummy engine, and wing struts) Don't know yet what I want for it; if I don't sell it, I may change my mind and repair it myself.

davidgeorge212

goldwaterman,
What kind of paint did you use to paint the interior of your fuselage cabin? was it some fuel proof luster coat paint or was it just regular old modeling paint like testors?

goldwaterman

I used cub yellow aerogloss dope for the painted sections. The lower panels below the windows are 3/32 balsa sheet. I covered those with 21st century cub yellow fabric.

Joe007

I need help with a Great Planes 1/5 Scale J-3 Cub. Does any one know what would be the best engine in the 49 size? I also need J-3 Landing gear and Cub wheels and tires. My plane has a 76" wingspan and needing information on the best Engine and landing gear. I would appreciate and info you may offer.
Thanks.

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

How about this? See attached.
Vince

davidgeorge212

Oh, I never have seen 21 century fabric covering before. So this stuff is like Monokote where it can be irond on but instead of a light weight film it is a fabric material? Is that what you used to cover your entire plane with?


when you paint with the aerogloss dope, do you need to prepare or seal the balsa wood in any way before hand or can you paint directly on the balsa.


Thanks,
David G.

goldwaterman

David. Yes, it's a woven polyester fabric thats already painted. Goes on pretty good. Looks better on a fabric covered airplane like the Cub or other vintage aircraft models. It costs more, at about $52 for a fifteen ft. roll. I don't prep the balsa when applying dope. 2 or 3 coats will do it, depending on the color. You can also seal the wood with clear dope and then apply your color, be it paint or dope. Mike.

millsap

I like the military verson and iam going to build a quarter scale sig kit after i build my 25 size float taylor craft .Ibuy eney kit i can get my hands on .HAY GUYS I AM LOOKING FOR A SESNA SKY MASTER KIT ONLY ANY SIZE ANY KIT E MAIL ME IF YOU KNOW OF ONE ANY WHERE

Joe007

Hello,
That looks like the landing grear I need. Where did you get it from?
Many Thanks.
Joe

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

CUB GEAR

William C. Wallace
1018 Airway Ave.
Lewiston, ID 83501

E-Mail : www.piperJ3gear.com

Phone : 208-746-5990

Very nice to deal with, fast prompt reliable service. Just tell them which Cub you are building.

Vince

goldwaterman

I also went with the Wallace gear. Well made and looks scale. Tht's a nice looking Cub, crankpin. It must fly sweet with that twin in her! Mike.

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Yes on the Cub, but I am replacing it with a Sig 1/5th scale Cub. Will put another Saito 90 or 100 twin. The Cub in the picture is a Great Planes ARF, bashed a little bit. I had a Sig Cub here at the house. No time to build, so bought the GP. I gave the Sig kit away to my brother. He built it, and he is master builder.
Good news. He called me up, sez he is getting a bigger one, do I want the Sig Cub back? Already built and fabric covered. I couldn't resist. Get it next week. Always have to have a Cub in the barn.
Couple more pix here.
Vince
Hobe Sound, FL

FlymoreRC

Hi, new to the blog..javascript:void(AddText('[8D]',''))
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I'm building a Sig 1/5, using Robart gear.
Any sources for a nice dash/control panel?

maritaliano

Hi all,

this ist my first post here. I hope You understand my "good" english
l have this SIG Piper 1/5 in all parts in a box. So I'm looking forward to build it.

I want to convert this Piper to electric with lipos. So I have to change something. To get the center point at the right place I must know where I have to place the Lipo at the beginning of the construction. The weight of the motor is 420 gramm. I want to use 6S lipo (660 gramm). What do You think what place is the right for the lipo cells? What is the weight of Your motors?

Regards from Germany.

Rolf

PS: sorry for my English...but I will do my best.

Stormovic

My Feedback: (29)

Build the kit first. This Cub is so big that you can put the lipos anywhere in the fuse. I am finishing up one now and I dont see where you would have any problem fitting the batt pack anywhere you want it . You are not going to be able to balance it until it is basically constructed.

davidgeorge212

just out of curiosity to some one who has finished and flown this kit, What are the extents of this cubs aerobatic capabilities. (The Cliped Wing). Reason Im asking is because I found some guys cub on Knife Edge Swaps and downloaded it, it flies good but when you go to do a simple loop and your holding near full up elevator, when the cub reaches the top and starts coming back down the wing snaps off and it crashes. Is this something that happens to the real cubs or was that cub I downlaoded a bad representation?


David G.

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

Flying a cub is a little different than most sport or aerobatic planes. Sometimes, the cub pilot doesn't figure this out untill too late. My cub would fly loops and looked best when they were done at moderate speed, with a little dive to gain energy and flying it throughout the loop with some throttle management on the down side. The Sig 1/5 cub is stressed for positive "G"s with the functional struts. but be careful on landings, as those can be harder on the wings than + Gs.

If you saw a cub shed a wing on a loop, my first guess would be that the strut failed. I'm assuming you are talking about the Sig 1/5 Cub?