SSE Tail Wire
#2
Senior Member
RE: SSE Tail Wire
The instructions in both the kit and the ARF versions explain the tail wires pretty good. On my last kit, I used 2-56 wire threaded on one end. I broke one half off a metal clevis and soldered it on the non-threaded end. I then broke half off a threaded clevis and put it on the other end of the wire, this provided some adjustment. I had to drill out the holes and put a slight bend in the clevis to fit nicely between the horizontal and vertical stab. The SEE should have reinforced holes already in place for the attaching the wires.
#3
RE: SSE Tail Wire
I second what Chuck says. You can cut off the unused side of the clevis with a Dremel cut off wheel, a bit cleaner than breaking it off. Also, use fine steel wool to buff the 2-56 wire assemblies to a nice shine.
#4
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RE: SSE Tail Wire
If you want something easier and stronger than the 2/56 rod and ends. Use some of the steel leader wire that is coated. When I did my decathlon I used the 30lb test. The wire and crimp tubes where about 5 bucks, and then use the dubro rigging couplers (dub201) with the dubro quick links (dub109). To fasten to use the Dubro steel straps and bend to suit. (dub 158)
#5
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RE: SSE Tail Wire
Thanks for the replies. Thanks Rob. That is most helpful as I was looking for a different way of making the tail wires. I like your method. Any other methods out there?
#6
RE: SSE Tail Wire
I use a Sullivan 4-40 Brass Solder End, from the solder end, drill into the brass end with a .040" drill about 3/8" deep, cut off the female sleeve and dress the end, solder 1/32" cable into the 4-40 thread piece and use Dubro 4-40 rod ends. I use Sullivan 4-40 nuts for jamming, they are 3/16" hex size.
Here's a photo from my 34% Chisten Eagle.
Tony Hallo
Here's a photo from my 34% Chisten Eagle.
Tony Hallo