Need some advice on best method for tail wire on stab of sse.

The instructions in both the kit and the ARF versions explain the tail wires pretty good. On my last kit, I used 2-56 wire threaded on one end. I broke one half off a metal clevis and soldered it on the non-threaded end. I then broke half off a threaded clevis and put it on the other end of the wire, this provided some adjustment. I had to drill out the holes and put a slight bend in the clevis to fit nicely between the horizontal and vertical stab. The SEE should have reinforced holes already in place for the attaching the wires.

I second what Chuck says. You can cut off the unused side of the clevis with a Dremel cut off wheel, a bit cleaner than breaking it off. Also, use fine steel wool to buff the 2-56 wire assemblies to a nice shine.

If you want something easier and stronger than the 2/56 rod and ends. Use some of the steel leader wire that is coated. When I did my decathlon I used the 30lb test. The wire and crimp tubes where about 5 bucks, and then use the dubro rigging couplers (dub201) with the dubro quick links (dub109). To fasten to use the Dubro steel straps and bend to suit. (dub 158)

Thanks for the replies. Thanks Rob. That is most helpful as I was looking for a different way of making the tail wires. I like your method. Any other methods out there?

I use a Sullivan 4-40 Brass Solder End, from the solder end, drill into the brass end with a .040" drill about 3/8" deep, cut off the female sleeve and dress the end, solder 1/32" cable into the 4-40 thread piece and use Dubro 4-40 rod ends. I use Sullivan 4-40 nuts for jamming, they are 3/16" hex size.
Here's a photo from my 34% Chisten Eagle.
Tony Hallo

Great method.