AMR Giant Stick 50
01-20-2012, 04:10 PM
#254
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RE: AMR Giant Stick 50
thanks shanec , i love the idea of using the nyrod , makes it easier to get the servo away from the motor . i saw on the first pic you dont have a hole in the fire wall behind the carb . with the stock stand offs the carb is about 1/2 inch away from the wall . dose this cause any problems or am i over thinking things ? also how do you have your choke set up , do you have a servo or do you shut it on and off by hand ? witch ever way can you show some pics of it ? thanks for the help
karl
karl
01-20-2012, 05:56 PM
#255
RE: AMR Giant Stick 50
I will get a pic in the morning "working tonight" no problem with carb clearance using the stand-offs. I think its 3/4 minimum is what you need. On the choke butterfly there is a hole that I put a 2/56 socket head bolt with locknut and used that to operate choke 
One less servo to mess with...
One less servo to mess with...
04-16-2012, 10:18 AM
#258
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RE: AMR Giant Stick 50
Just a little bit of help please
Have an old set of andersen plans 100in am looking for the CG which are not on the plan,Would think about 6in from leading edge for a start am I close.
REGARDS
JOHN
Have an old set of andersen plans 100in am looking for the CG which are not on the plan,Would think about 6in from leading edge for a start am I close.
REGARDS
JOHN
04-16-2012, 04:11 PM
#259
RE: AMR Giant Stick 50
I would start at 28% MAC, measure the chord and set the balance to 28% back from the L/E. This should put you to the safe side of the balance range then move back as needed after test flying. You will probably wind up around 30-31% in the end.
Later!!
Anthony
Later!!
Anthony
04-17-2012, 02:10 AM
#260
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RE: AMR Giant Stick 50
ORIGINAL: WacoNut
I would start at 28% MAC, measure the chord and set the balance to 28% back from the L/E. This should put you to the safe side of the balance range then move back as needed after test flying. You will probably wind up around 30-31% in the end.
Later!!
Anthony
I would start at 28% MAC, measure the chord and set the balance to 28% back from the L/E. This should put you to the safe side of the balance range then move back as needed after test flying. You will probably wind up around 30-31% in the end.
Later!!
Anthony
REGARDS
JOHN
02-05-2014, 07:46 AM
#261
Senior Member
Lets see if there's still life forms out there 
How much weight was required on the nose for those of you that went 50-55CC's? I may have a G62 coming my way - but it's an older (magneto) motor. Have nothing against the magneto series, have a G26 set up that way that just soldiers on.
How much weight was required on the nose for those of you that went 50-55CC's? I may have a G62 coming my way - but it's an older (magneto) motor. Have nothing against the magneto series, have a G26 set up that way that just soldiers on.
02-05-2014, 11:50 AM
#264
Senior Member
Ok, the G62 as it turns out doesn't exist (at least as far as coming my way). So - DLE55 or DLE55RA?
AND - going to change the trailing edge of the wing and tail to make it a 50cc UltraStick
AND - going to change the trailing edge of the wing and tail to make it a 50cc UltraStick
04-08-2014, 05:16 AM
#265
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Elevator servos
What elevator servos is everyone using? The mounts in the fuselage for the elevator servos are shallow and I'm assuming require low profile servos?
08-12-2014, 05:20 AM
#271
Whats up? I have a set of plans of the OLD BUD NOSON?? big stik, I going to build mine this winter. I have been looking at the plans and it seems to be the same plane as the AMR 50cc plane?? The Bub Noson, they where using a Q35, Q40-41,G38. I'm planing to use a BME 102 tween on mine! The planes has a 106" WS. i'd like to have a Grate Planes Big Stick, it's 80" and l foung a ARF on E-Bay that is 83" for $200.00 and some change. The GP's is $300.00 from Tower Hobbies I got a DLE 55 needs a home! I think l can build the stick for under $100.00. Going to use barn door control on the wing instad of strip and increce the elevater to four in. post some video of how yours did on the 111.
03-30-2015, 08:33 AM
#273
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I'm in the process of building my Stick 50 as well. Putting a DLE 120 on it. Yes I like the power. Also have 6 inch wheels to help with the prop clearance. Problem I have run into is the instructions for building the wing jig make no sense. They say you build the jig first for the left wing and then the right. If you look at the pictures they actually show a jig built for the right wing and not the left. Also if you follow the jig instructions the jig is actually for the right panel. Has anyone else run across this. I have email AMR and they directed me to this thread for help.
03-30-2015, 12:26 PM
#274
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Yeah, I found the same problem. They say to follow the instructions, however their pictures don't Match up with the instructions. It's not really hard to work around. Just took some quiet time to mentally work through the details. 
Most important thing I recall is making sure the notch in the jig for the wing tube is in the correct position and side for the wing panel your building. I inserted the wing tube in the the ribs to help alignment while gluing. Then dissemble the jig and invert/flip...then build the other wing panel.
I would have to agree with you for using a 120. I have a 55 in mine, and it really begs for a bigger motor. The extra weight will also help with the CG.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
Most important thing I recall is making sure the notch in the jig for the wing tube is in the correct position and side for the wing panel your building. I inserted the wing tube in the the ribs to help alignment while gluing. Then dissemble the jig and invert/flip...then build the other wing panel. I would have to agree with you for using a 120. I have a 55 in mine, and it really begs for a bigger motor. The extra weight will also help with the CG.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
03-30-2015, 12:29 PM
#275
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Yeah, I found the same problem. They say to follow the instructions, however their pictures don't Match up with the instructions. It's not really hard to work around. Just took some quiet time to mentally work through the details. Most important thing I recall is making sure the notch in the jig for the wing tube is in the correct position and side for the wing panel your building. I inserted the wing tube in the the ribs to help alignment while gluing. Then dissemble the jig and invert/flip...then build the other wing panel.
I would have to agree with you for using a 120. I have a 55 in mine, and it really begs for a bigger motor. The extra weight will also help with the CG.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
Most important thing I recall is making sure the notch in the jig for the wing tube is in the correct position and side for the wing panel your building. I inserted the wing tube in the the ribs to help alignment while gluing. Then dissemble the jig and invert/flip...then build the other wing panel. I would have to agree with you for using a 120. I have a 55 in mine, and it really begs for a bigger motor. The extra weight will also help with the CG.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.