silver soldering
#1
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silver soldering
whats up, on my f4u build, i'm at the part where i need to silver solder the tail wheel wire. i have the silver solder but the only flux i have is for plumbing. will the be good enough?
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RE: silver soldering
Go out and buy the Stay Brite kit for $11.00...it's kind of expensive, but it's SOOO worth it in the end. Clean up the parts with a bit of fine grade sandpaper, wipe them off well with a paper towel and some rubbing alcohol, and use a pencil torch if you have one. The joints will look great with a little prep work! Good luck with your project! -Craig
#4
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RE: silver soldering
There are two types of silver solder, hard silver solder that has to be red hot, around 1350F to flow, then there is the plumbing silver content solder which flows just like the old lead/tin solder, aroung 400F or less. Staybright is in this class. I expect that soldering the tail wheel wire also falls into this class.
The borax flux is for the hard silver solder
Most of the electronics or past plumbing fluxes will work with most all soft solders, including both the tin/silver and tin/lead solders.
All that said, Staybright is a good solder for our work. Keep any acid core or acid flux away.
Don
The borax flux is for the hard silver solder
Most of the electronics or past plumbing fluxes will work with most all soft solders, including both the tin/silver and tin/lead solders.
All that said, Staybright is a good solder for our work. Keep any acid core or acid flux away.
Don
#5
RE: silver soldering
"Silver Solder" at the hardware store is non-lead drinking water solder not what you want. Stay Brite is the easiest to use at either the hobby shop or tower. Comes with its own flux. "Real" silver solder the old way was pure silver; you could use a silver dollar if you wanted. It is called hard soldering.