RoyR

OK, since someone else started this: I am a retired helicopter pilot, we flew offshore IFR. I once flew with a co-pilot named Clarence. (you can see where this is going)
It became routine for me to ask him, “Do you have the clearance Clarence?” and he would reply, “Roger, Rogers.” (which is my last name)

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Don't tell me your name is Roy Rogers!

n7188u

Hi again,

My question today has to do with the engine mount on the GP 60 kit. It is not what is shown on the plans and the holes in the plan would not work. The mount is labeled for 40-70 but is is relatively small. Is this normal?

Chris

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

Yes kit manufactures are always switching parts do to availability or cost. You make the holes from the mount your have. Also keep in mind that the large sheet of paper that the plans are printed on can expand and shrink with the seasons/ humidity level and this could throw your holes off. It's usually a good idea to chuck all that cheap hardware they put into the kits. Upgrade!

rglgatortail

My Feedback: (7)

Hey chris, as long as you have the Great Planes adjustable engine mount 40-70 well a sixty size engine will fit on this just fine. Take your fire and carefully measure the center, measure length mark the center then measure width and mark the center you will then have a "plus" mark thru the center of the firewall, now using the engine mount template you can use scotch tape to hold the tempate in place and at the four locations make a 1/16 drill indent on the firewall thru the template. Is there a template on the fuse plans? I dont remember if there was, but another place to understand this is here at this link goto page 23 and read that part to give you a better understanding. http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma0175-manual.pdf. I hope that this helps

this should be the motor mount you should have.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ772&P=0

Robert

n7188u

Thanks Guys. Yes Robert that is the mount I have. Does look a litlle small for a 60 but once Iget my engine (OS65AX) Iwill check it. I just kept going and bonded the Firewall to the fuse and will do the holes before I build the nose. I stil lhave to go back to the wings and join them, ailerons, tips etc so got plenty of work to continue.

Regarding the wings, Idecided to stick to the dihedral indicated in the plans and see what the designer had in mind. I think there has to be a reason why it is set as it is. The US doesn't strike me as a plane were the designer would add to many features for novice pilots so I will give him the benefit of the doubt. If yaw-roll coupling is excessive, oh well. At least Iwill be able to report back.

Since my US will fly (I am making very good progress in the contruction and this is my only plane right now) I wonder if Ican join the Brotherhood?

Regards,
Chris

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Updated list:



Welcome to the Brotherhood!!

Official USB (Ultra Sport Brotherhood) Members list:
1. Ken Isaac - RCKen
2. Mike Buzzeo - Minnflyer
3. Alex7403
4. Dash008
5. AH1G
6. tschuy
7. MILDBILL-RCU
8. Box car
9. Top Gunn
10. SeaJay
11. Crash Campbell
12. SKYHI1
13. ChuckW
14. RhyanO
15. landeck
16. Ilikebipes
17. airbusdrvr
18. Insanemoondoggie
19. daisy shoot
20. prgonzalez
21. BelAirBob
22. hrrcflyer
23. rastus1
24. tony0707
25. *JCB*
26. Redback
27. bigugly
28. MetallicaJunkie
29. Gordie M
30. Jim_Purcha
31. rcsws
32. jeffsend
33. fireman7875
34. 72
35. ser00
36. Oly
37. cpeisher
38. donzhere
39. SKYHI1
40. kbarko
41. pgilbert
42. rambler53
43. rcjets_63
44. dschroeder
45. Quikturn
46. blueapplepaste
47. green river rc
48. SushiSeeker
49. VCScott
50. FallDownGoBoom
51. ccp10
52. Deadeye
53. Eganwp
54. carlosponti
55. Navy18
56. MineBurg
57. Cdallas2
58. loopyrc
59. Sled
60. Bernard
61. jrbmoto
62. Bubba153
63. Alfredbmor
64. FentonFlyer
65. Sneakywrist
66. BLW
67. smkrcflyer
68. gabarber
69. Amishwarlord
70. JPMacG
71. kamakazie frank
72. RussianFlyer
73. RoyR
74. Red Jeepster
75. Fallingleaf
76. Yukonflier
77. rcjim000
78. goonybird1
79. rglgatortail
80. Latebreaker
81. Tango juliet
82. Saito18
83. hafidy
84. RR24
85. mechdrew
86. siko_flyer
87. Kit
88. n7188u

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

In regards to the wing, maybe you build a second one with zero dihedral just in case you don't like the current one.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I built all of my wings with the specified dihedral and the US rolls like it's on a rail

n7188u

Cool, thanks guys. I am gluing the wings together as soon as I finish typing
Chris

rglgatortail

My Feedback: (7)

Does anyone know who this ultra sport belong to? Is there a way i can get in touch with him so i can get build info? I have the big time want to build one too and i have dave brown trike retracts that is waiting for a new home and this twin engine for a US 60 would be my next project. So if anyone knows who this is and can help me get in touch with him i would be very thankful.

Robert

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Could I claim number 89? I believe after reading this thread that I will build the Ultra Sport. It was that or the Venture 60. I'm planning on using a Thunder Tiger .61 Pro cause I have it. It was that or a .91 Magnum 4 stroke and Minn likes 2 strokes on the US. I'll also use Minn's flap idea and put fixed wheels out one bay from the directions. If I could find a good set of mechanical retracts I might change my mind about the fixed gear. Unfortunately the retract gear that Minn designed is no longer available.

I'm also planning on using servos mounted in the wings. Do the servos stay in their stock locations with a .61 2 stroke? Anything else anyone wants add that I should do?

Thanks,
John

RoyR

I bought my Ultra Sport along with Minn's retracts you mentioned a couple of years ago. In the meantime we moved North and I finally started building a couple of months ago. (I'm in the covering phase now) Those retracts are a great design, so no problem there. However I think my next kit I will try the electric retracts. That looks like it would simplify installation. No servo or linkage to put up with, no air bottles.

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...ProdID=EFLG410
http://www.sonicelectric.com/Merchan...ory_Code=LDERS

It has been a few years since I built a kit, and I was a bit rusty. (I got caught up in the ARFs)
Things I would do different next time, and will pass on to you if it helps:

Make my wheel wells bigger. The wheels retract with no problem, but I have only an eighth inch or so clearance around the wheel, so one hard landing and It will probably hit the well next time it retracts.

Read the instructions before I proceed to the next step. This may sound simple, but after I glued the faring on the fuselage I noticed the instructions said to raise the tip. I didn’t, and it shouldn’t effect the way it flies, but it doesn’t look as good as with the tip raised. Incidentally, I screwed the faring up royally, and it’s rather lumpy, but on the bright side, my covering job is so wrinkled you don’t notice the bad faring. What hurts is a number of years ago I built an UltraSport 40 and both the faring and covering were perfect. (I still have that plane but need a new engine for it ) So you have to keep at building to keep doing a good job.

Something also happened building the wing. After I glued the wing together and mounted it I had a hard time aligning it. I measured tip to tip and it was even. Then measuring tip to tail it was off ¼ of an inch. The fuselage center line was dead on. The wing center line was dead on. I tried adjusting all directions I could think of and it would either be off tip to tip or tip to tail. I ended up putting it somewhere between the two. I don’t know what that problem was, but next time I’ll check everything a number of times before gluing the wings together.

I wasn’t thinking before starting, but I wish I had bought a tail wheel bracket that bolts to the fuse. I used the kit one, but really don’t like that kind.

I also put the aileron servos in the wing. I had intended to use one servo and Golden Rod, as Minnflyer suggested, but I had put too much sheeting on the wing before I thought about the ailerons. I just put the servos between ribs about 4 inches inboard on the ailerons. I glued plywood servo rails between two ribs and added some reinforcement.

This one is just a personal choice. I’m sure many will disagree with me. The instructions say to cover the ailerons, rudder, and elevator before installing. Previously in my kit building I installed first, then covered. This time I installed after covering. I still prefer to install them first, then cover. It’s a little tricky, but it can be done. Since I often seal the gap with Monokote, it’s no problem to cover last.

Also, FYI I am using a Super Tiger 90 on mine. I have a ST 45 that has been very reliable, plus the 90 is a good price. I chose the 90 over the 61 or 75 because I just moved from sea level to 5,000 feet, and didn’t want to worry about power. Plus the ST 90 is pretty close in weight to the OS 75 AX and $100 cheaper. (Yes, I have to think about price since I retired)

To sum up; I had been away from kits for a few years, and I found out you do forget how to do it. Or at least you get rusty. Especially with the covering. Just take your time, ask questions on forums like this one. And if it isn’t perfect, that’s not the end of the world. It could still fly like a champ for years.
The great thing of kit building is making your own changes from the stock kit. Then you have an airplane that is You.

I did buy another Ultra Sport 60 kit. So whenever I get around to building it I hope I can remember my own advice and make it perfect. (sure)

I’ll post pictures of mine when I finish. And hopefully have a good first flight report.
I’m looking forward to

RoyR

PS
Yep, Minnflyer, my name really is Roy Rogers.
There's actually a story behind it that I didn't know until a few years ago.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Cool if somewhat frustrating story Roy. I'll take your advise to heart about reading ahead and trying to fully understand the instructions before gluing. It always sucks knowing you could do better but this is my hobby. I do it to have fun not to drive myself crazy. I'm waiting till my wife see all the stuff I have on my peg board. Oh well most of it was bought before we were married.
John

crash bandicoute

okay, i TOTALLY don't mean anything disrespectful by this question, and please don't crucify me for asking it. taking a long time to read a bit of this thread and flip through the photos of all you guy's planes, i've never really been too interested in it, but i hearor read commentsabout it everyonce in a while. (okay here goes... brace yourselves) what's so snazzy about it? is it a speed demon kind of plane? really aerobatic? i kind of like it... but not sure it's my cup of tea. i've heard it spoiles everything else you can build, but not really listened to more than that. i really liked the US 40+, but they don't kit them anymore. and they look different. what was the "plus" part?

RoyR

sorry, double post

RoyR

I really didn't mean for this to sound frustrating. I love building kits, and every time I mess up it's just something for me to make better next time. It's actually a challenge to see how to work around my problems.
I guess I didn't state it the way I meant. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist, and when I make a mistake, I just try to improve next time. Nothing I mentioned will ruin the airplane. Perhaps I'm just too critical on myself.

I always move on from my last problems and see what comes up next.
I have only build two airplanes I was completely satisfied with. My first, a Sterling Fledgling, and my Ultra Sport 40. So I'm always trying.

dash008

My Feedback: (1)

I'll take a crack at this... It's a really nice plane. It's good for what it does well but it doesn't do everything well. No it will not ruin you for other planes! It is a fast plane but it is not an "extreme speed" type plane. It is easy to control. Turns on a dime. Rolls are axial. Control inputs are precise. So precise that it gives you a lot of confidence to fly close to the ground. I fly this plane differently than I fly my other planes. With this one it is fun to dive bomb the runway and scream down the length of it just a couple feet off the ground. I've seen people who are confident doing this inverted, but I am not there yet. That's what it does well. It is a lot of fun. Very stable moving fast, but not so much fun to fly slow. It does not fly slow well, that is not what it is for. For this reason, even though I love it and love flying it, it would not be my first choice for "all around sport plane" and if I were only allowed to keep one of my planes it would probably be my Pulse XT. The Pulse, like the four star, etc., is a better all around sport plane in my opinion. It does not do what the Ultra Sport does nearly as well but it flies slower better and is more fun to do touch and go's and floats around better with that big wing. The ultra sport wing is smaller needs to fly faster and is not happy flying slow.

Don't get my wrong I love my ultra sport. It flies great but I wouldn't call it an "all around sport plane".

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

It's just a sport plane that happened to fly like a pattern plane so nothing special there.

I think it's just the lines of the plane. Shape of the wing, the turtle deck, the Lear jet canopie, and the smoothed out jet tail feathers. They come together really nice on this plane. If you don't like it's looks then there is really nothing for you.

You know what plane flies better than a ultra sport? This one! But damn look at the ugly thing.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

I've taken inventory and about the only thing I do not have to build the US is a 2-3/4" spinner and a battery pack. I'm going to be using a Sullivan tail wheel kit. I do not like putting stress on the rudder hinges. Speaking of hinges - pinned, Robart or CA? Minn said stock servos were fine so it probably is user preference. I think I'll be using Hitec HS-425BB serovos for everything but the rudder and flaps where I'll use a HS-475BB. I'm thinking of using an A123 battery pack in this one.

As to the best flying sport plane, my favorite is a stick, but I'm willing to have an open mind. One thing I'm sure of with as many passionate fans as there are of this plane it won't be a dog. Whether I'm as passionate about as everyone else doesn't matter - it's the journey that is more important.
John

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

What is go great about an Ultra Sport? First, I really like the looks. This is totally an opinion of course, but to me, the plane has everything a plane should have looks-wise. It seems to be even more impressive when looking at it from the rear - the way the tail looks in relation to the wing. I can't explain it, it just looks perfect!

But to fully understand it, I'll have tell you my history with it.

I learned to fly as a kid and worked my way up to flying Junior Pattern as a teenager. Then I joined the Navy, got married, had a kid, etc so I was out of the hobby for a while. In the late 80's I got back into it, started with an intermediate trainer to get my fingers back in shape, then my dad got me a 4* - He said everyone was flying them and really liked them. I thought it was butt-ugly, but I built it and flew it. It flew great, but by now I was ready for something more advanced.

I was browsing throught the Tower Catalog and spied the US40. "Hmm, now THAT looks pretty nice!" So my girlfriend got me one for Christmas. The first thing I noticed was how well the kit was engineered. Mind you, in those days most kits were a box of sticks and a set of plans with little or no instructions. But the US used some really innovative building techniques - Like the balsa Jig to hold up the traling edge of the wing, the "D-Tube" wing construction, Cap strips, etc. Even down to little details like the strips of balsa along the sides of the elevators to seal off the end grain.

Seeing as how I was still not 100% confident in my skills, I decided to add flaps to slow it down on landing, and in those days we flew from a VERY course asphalt parking lot, so I decided to move the gear out one rib to help avoid it tipping over and grinding a wingtip off. Both of these mods proved to be worth their weight in gold!

Also, the first time I ever heard the phrase "Flies like it's on a rail" was in the US manual (Or maybe it was on the box, I don't remember). Of course, nowadays this phrase has gotten to be cliche', but the US REALLY and TRUELY flies like it's on a rail!

Rolls are not only axial, but when you release the stick, the roll STOPS - DEAD!

This plane litterally goes where you point it, turns on a dime, and will make you look like a better flier than you are!

It is the reason God created balsa. It is perfection!

box car

I am building a twin fuselage US-60 and need some opinions on good retract servos.The wing at eachfuselage has a retract in it and retracts to the rear of the wing. I had 2 Hobbico CS-63 in it but burned them out, my bad cross the pos. and neg. on my bench test battery kiss them babies good my, they were new, now I got tears. So now I have to get new ones would like to go to a better servo anyone have an opinion.
Ken

FallDownGoBoom

My Feedback: (1)

I flew mine with Hitech HS75's. They worked fine. I think that as long as your retract setup is correct, you could use the Hobbico's, the HS75's, or the JR RT88's and be succesful.

box car

Thanks Fred, I ask Hobbico if they could repair them and they said they would replace them for $20 ea. so I will get 2 more from them.
Ken