mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

I built the ailerons and elevators over the weekend. For the elevator, you edge glue two sheets of hard balsa together and cut to shape the "core". Then add the leading edge and the ribs. Sand to shape, hinge and cover.. done.

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

If forgot to take pictures of how the trailing edge is built, but the plans have all of the information you need. I also finished sheeting the bottom of the wing. The bottom sheeting comes flush to the trailing edge, but the top is a little tricky. I haven't begun to built the flap pockets yet. To prep the wing surface for sanding, first I ran a damp sponge across the wing to help lift some of the small dents up. When it was dry, I started sanding to make everything even and smooth. Then I used a old credit card to put on a thin layer of DAP light weight spackle to fill the pin holes (there's hundreds of 'em) Now its ready for final sanding. Most of the spackle you see there will be sanded off leaving a smooth wing surface thats ready for fiberglass.

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Mike,
Interesting, looks like you build the wing complete then slide the center section over it? So the FG center is really just a cosmetic pce without formers, etc? Also, I've found gorilla glue really expands and needs a lot of weight and pressure to hold it down, I assume as you didn't use any water to activate the glue is why you didn't get this expansion?
I think you said you're going with 2x 3S for 6S power correct? What are the dimensions of your packs? Also, what is the ID of the fuse vs the ID of the cowl?
Thanks again for sharing your progress....looks like it's going smoothly so far.

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

Yes Sean, You're right. I did not activate the glue with water. I just spread a layer on the foam and a very thin layer on the back side of the sheet. Then pin it down, You cannot run the pins straight in, you have to push them in at about 45 degrees. I push one in to the front and the next towards the rear. On the bottom, you need to add extra pins in the center section. On the top you need to add extra pins to the dihedral joint to keep the sheet from lifting up. Wait 4-5 hours and pull the pins out. I used needle nose pliers and gave each pin a small twist as I was pulling them out. Be sure to pull them out at the same angle you pushed them in, or you might splinter the wood around the hole. The glue does expand a little. It will foam up around open pin holes and in between sheets that don't fit exactly together. The glue-foam sands down easily and is more or less the same color as the wood.
The Fiberglass center section is just cosmetic. The sheeting is thinner on the top rear to accomodate the fg CC. Once the wing is finished but not glassed, fit up the CC and make any adjustments you need to get it to fit just right then do your normal wing alignment. Believe me when I tell you that after the sheeting is done you could ride the wing like a surfboard without breaking it. It's crazy strong.. you won't believe it.

Here are the battery specs from hobbyking.

Capacity(mAh) 3300
Config(s) 3
Discharge(c) 30
Weight(g) 297
Max Charge Rate (C) 2
Length-A(mm) 137
Height-B(mm) 43
Width-C(mm) 23


I'll have to get back to you on the ID of the fuse and cowl.

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

Double post deleted

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

Here is a short update from the work over the weekend. This is how you build the flaps and elevators. The process is to edge glue two harder balsa sheets together and cut to the shape of the elevator. Transfer the rib marks from the plan and pencil them in to both sides of the basla sheet. Glue on the leading edge, add the ribs, drill the hinge holes, and sand to match the shape of the plans. The center flap is the only one I've built so far. I cut the 1/6" aircraft ply to match the plans and used angle aluminum to keep it straight using small clips. Then I added the leading edge and the ribs. I added the 1/8" square stick between each rib, hinged and here is the result. The outer flaps are coming soon to a built thread near you.

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Nice progress Mike, thanks for sharing.
Dave sent me a note today and it sounds like my kit will still ship within the 2 week delivery promise. Nice communication.
Also ordered my retracts today.
Keep building. Keep posting. [8D]

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

I installed the Horizonal Stab and built the rudder over the weekend. The tip of the stab needs to be sawed off. I also used a dremmel to remove some of the extra fiberglass and resin in the hole where the stab slides in. I went with an internal torque type of elevator control. That need to be installed behind the bulkhead so it is in-line with the hinge-line. I used a small dowel wraped with sandpaper to make the cut out for the torque fork. I also built and hindged the rudder and tail-wheel. The rudder is built the same way the elevators are. It's important to make sure the Robart 1/8" hinge points are set all the way down to the radius of the leading edge. I added blocks to the trailing edge on the inside, drilled and mounted it to the hinges in the rudder to make sure everything moved smoothly and that it rotates properly without bindling. I think Mr. Nano swallowed a bug in picture #3

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Or Mr. Nano is saying "HI" to us

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Mike,
Any progress on the T-6? Mine arrived last week. Likely won't get into it until the summer or fall, but watching your build closely.
Thanks

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

Hey Sean,

I'm glad to see it made it safely. What do you think of of the kit? Can you believe how light the fuse is? I was shocked... I worked on my Texan off and on over the weekend. I finished both outboard flaps and attached the leading edge. I cut, but have not glued the top / rear 1/16" ply flap pocket. I need do some minor adjustments to the flaps before I attach it. I also built the radio tray and temporarily mounted it to the inside of the firewall. I can't glue it in until I finish the motor mount, because it looks like it might interfere with the blind "T" nuts on the inside. Also I made a trip to the local hobby shop to buy a set of 48" (Blue-stiff) Gold-N-Rods. The 36" ers were too short to make it all the way to the radio tray. Here are some pictures of the cockpit "kit" to get your juices flowing.

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Dave did send me some pics of the cockpit kit he's working on. Do you have one now?
I'd like to see him make a version of it that only goes down to 'bust' level.
I didn't spend a lot of time looking at the kit, just basically checked that everything looked like it travelled safe. I'll dig into this summer proably. Need to get another project finished first.

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

Hey Sean,

The pictures above are of Dave's Cockpit mock-up. I took them with my cell phone when I was on a visit there over Christmas. Dave has the drawings available, but I'm a long ways from that step just yet. I may have to go with a "bust" level cockpit tub too, if I want to have it ready for Joe Nall that is.... I'm still on schedule, but time is getting short. I ordered a dummy radial engine, so I can mount the cowl and motor. Then I can mount the radio tray and push rods, then I can install the formers and tie in the elevator torque rod before the Vert Stab trailing edge. I have to built it in order and everything is connected to something else. Whew! I'll keep you updated and I try to post some pictures of all three flaps working together.

griffithevans

Can you tell me how I purchase one of those Scale Dynamic AT-6 kits.

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Dave goes by the name 'probuilder' here on RCU. You can find him in the 'members' link and shoot him a note.
I have a NIB set of Robart retracts for this model if you do get the kit. Just PM me.

griffithevans

Thanks for the note Sean. I will let you know about the retracts. I have the robart retracts from my kaput midwest AT-6. I was thinking that they might work in this new project.
I will send pro builder a note.
Griff

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Griff, you're all set then. The retracts for the SD kit are the same Robart 620's that the Midwest AT-6 used.

sj3cub

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Guys, I am getting ready to buy one of Dave's kits, as I need a update for my 20 year old Midwest kit. Have any of you guys finished yours yet, and how does it fly? Sounds like it is a lot lighter than my 15.5 lb Midwest model. Are the building instructions very complete, with step by step photos or drawings? Or are they minimal with a lot left up to the builder. I guess I'm just hoping for a nice detailed build manual. Any other info you guys have to offer about this beautiful kit? I would appreciate any thoughts on your kits.
Thanks guys!

Scott

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

Hi Scott,

I happened across your questions while browsing my old posts. Yes, the Scale Dynamics kit is perfect refresh for your Midwest Texan. The detailed plans have all of the info you need, but there is a basic instruction guide too. It DOES NOT READ like a Top Flite Manual which tells you everything including which end of the screw driver to hold on to, but you will get a basic understanding of the task. This is a builder's kit, so I am not trying to insult anyone, but it is NOT a cheap Chinese ARF. There is quite a bit that SD leaves up to the builder to figure out. Put another way, if you built the Midwest Flying Lumber Yard, you'll have no problems with this kit. Sheeting foam cores is only about 10% of the work that build-up wings take. You can have a complete, ready to cover wing in under 2 days. The most time consuming part is waiting for the glue to dry. Email me if you have any questions.

--Good Luck

Mike Schneider

BTW: I just moved so I am in the process of getting the shop up and running. I will get back on the Texan project within a week or so.

smkrcflyer

What's the cost for one of these?

sj3cub

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks for the reply Mike. I have been building for 30 years, so I know I could handle it, but I'm getting lazy in my older years. Late 40's ha ha ha. Can't wait for you to start posting your build again. My Midwest T-6 is one of the best flying warbird's I have, thats why I'm going to buy one of these glass and foam kits. Not to mention this kit is absolutely beautiful!!!!!!!

Scott

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

As promised, I was able to get back on the Texan project. I installed the scratch built servo tray, placed the receiver, installed the Gold 'n Rods (blue) for the elevator and rudder. I installed the rudder post and did the final sanding on the elevartors, stab and rudder. The control surfaces are ready for covering and stab is ready for glassing. The camera is on the charger, so I hope to post some pictures of the progress tonight or tomorrow.

sj3cub

My Feedback: (9)

Can't wait for your updates Mike. Please keep them coming. Your build is looking very very nice.

Scott

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

Hey Scott,
My Internet should be connected at my new house on Saturday. I'll try to post some of the photos I've taken over the last couple of days. I covered the elevators with Solartex last night and will try to get to the rudder tonight. I also added a couple sections "Flite-Metal" to the vert-stab and another spot to test the technique and over all appearence. I think it looks good and seems to transfer the molded-in details pretty well. I have some other burnishing tools to try out and test too. I'm planning to glass the horz-stab over the weekend, then I can finish up the wing and get it ready for glass too.

sj3cub

My Feedback: (9)

Sounds great Mike. I have always wanted to try the Flite-metal on a project. It definitely makes for some great looking panels. I'm getting more and more excited about this project.
Scott