Old Bill

I just ordered a DuraTrax Overdrive ST fuel tank from Tower Hobbies. I read on another thread about putting this in the Evader. I think I will have to drill some new holes, but its 100cc, instead of 75cc, and it has a primer on it. It was $10.99. I'll let you know how it works.

nitroguy123

My Feedback: (3)

Well tomorrow im gonna take my evader out and get some pics of it doing so jumps and ill try and post them tomorrow. Just got a new hitec 625mg servo for it so i cant wait to see what kind of a difference it makes. And i bought some quality allen wrenches and man how could i ever work on my truck without these. They make it so much eaiser. I advise anyone who doesnt have a set already to go out and buy one. They may seem pricey but they are worth it.

RayRayraycer20

hey guys,
well I've got a little over a half gallon run thru my evader, and have not gone under 2 turns out on the hsn.
after reading some earlier posts by old bill.....he was sayin he was comfortable with 1 7/8 out and maybe goin in 1/4 more for racin.....my question to everyone is.... with the dtx.18.....what HSN setting is workin' for you.
At high speeds mine still seems like Its a little rich. I want to lean it out (for more speed) but not too much....
Thanks[sm=thumbup.gif]

crazyswede

Wassup fellas,
First let me start off by saying YEA TERPS!
Now that's out of the way I wanted to share the latest idea[sm=idea.gif].
I had a bunch of nice 2000mah AA batteries and a 15 min charger. Only problem was I only had 4.8v not the 6v I got with my alkaline. I don't have the cash to go out and buy a hump pack and the charger needed to get the rechargeable 6v. So I went down to Radio Shack and picked up a single AA battery holder for $.99 and some shrink tubing and wired the single holder in line with the 4x holder. Just cut the positive side of the original wiring and run the red wire from the existing 4x pack to the black wire of the single holder. then connect the red from the single holder to the positive going to the rx.
The only thing you need to be careful of that you splice in the single holder before the on/off switch. Otherwise you will be pulling current from single holder all the time.
Later,
Swede

RayRayraycer20

swede..... dude this is weird.....I got off work early today...and on the way home I picked up the exact same thing! and I was about to post about it . how freaky. great minds think alike I guess, I was just sittin down to figure out how to wire it up.... and you did it for me....crazy you are the man! soo you just spliced in between the switch and the 4 batt holder? just connected both negative together and positive together? I see a velcro strap there, where do you plan to mount the single cell? Man this is awesome timing.... for me I guess

dicko

cen racing,

you will need to get your hobby shop that you bought the evader from to send the parts back to JB wholesalers in perth to get you replacements. My hobbyshop in adelaide does this for me, but they will only do it if you bought the truck from them. Hope this helps.

Cheers
Dicko.

crazyswede

You need to connect the negative from the single cell to the positive coming from the battery box. Then connect the positive from the single cell to the positive going to the switch.

mbdns1221

how does the duratrax overdrive compare to the evader st?

RayRayraycer20

I see....so you just ran it "in line" on the positive lead. Thanks for the tips. have you tried it out yet? how is it workin?

crazyswede

work's fine.[sm=thumbup.gif]

plantopimpitout

This just came to mind so thought i would share and maybe start some good discussion! I hear people saying that the dtx.18 in the evader is weaker then most .12s out there. Why would duratrax put in a .18 that is soo weak? Why bother? Most places dont let .18s in officical races, so why did they do it? is it really that weak? mine seems to run really strong? whats your take on it?

crazyswede

I don't understand why duratrax doesn't post the spec's on the engine. From what I have been able to figure out it seem's the .18 has a little less hp's than my O.S. .12. My .12 has 1hp, so I would guess the .18 is around .8hp, which if you stand back and look at other rtr engines such as the .12's & the .15's they can run from .40hp - .75hp. I haven't heard many people calling that engine weak, at least not by RTR standard's.

dicko

The engine doesn't rev as high as a .15 or 12, but it has a lot more low end torque. It has less HP than my OS 15CV-RX, but I paid a lot more for that engine than I would for the 18. I've heard that it revs at 28000rpm comprared to 36000rpm I get out of my CV-RX. Maybe that's why i'm pulling wheelies. I think the main problem with this engine is that people run it in by what was written in the instructions, I ran it in similar to what they said & the piston & liner died, I believe it needed to be run in a lot richer than what the manual said. I expect that when I get it back & run it in how I usually do it will run fine.

dicko

They probably speced it cause it was cheaper than some other engines & kept the price of the RTR down & competitive with other brands. plus a 18 sounds better than a 15 or 12 to many people.

rifler917

The Epic .18 is 1.8hp @ 39,000rpm wich puts out as much as the stock ofna .21 and .26.

I ordered this engine 2 days ago after i saw that some else has it on the forum.

And i bought the O.S .15 from my friend yesterday for 30 dollors and ordered a new piston and sleave for the .15 and see which one i like then sell the one i dont like on ebay.

rifler917

And the .18 epic is 6.88oz and the Stock .18 in the Evader is 8.64oz with less hp.

thx1138

my evader stalls when its hot but it has only done it in the snow if i run it in my garage then it is all right will it stall if it gets to hot and the low speed needle isnt set right or is it that the liner is gone

dicko

Too hard to answer that question withou looking at the car. there are a few posts earlier in this thread on how to set your low speed needle. I posted one of them. to check if your piston is worn you undo the four screws that hold the head on & pull out the liner. clean it with some solvent & see if you can see a wear mark on the inside. if there is an obvious wear mark it is most likely time for a new one. alternatively if you can turn the engine over easily using the fly wheel, without it getting harder as the piston gets to the top of its stroke you are losing compression and your piston may be worn. you will learn with experience what a worn piston feels like to turn over.

nitroguy123

My Feedback: (3)

Well here are some pics of my evader with some new alum knuckle arms on it. Im not sure if it was worth 26 bucks but oh well to late now. but I do like the way they look. Being on spring break will actually give me a chance to drive it and see if they will hold up.

jaywebguy

Finally got my Evader out this spring. Snows all gone and it was about 70 out yesterday. I was doing fine breaking it in but then it happened. A 1" lip between the sidewalk and the pavement was two tempting. At first I was going over it nice and slow watching how easily the suspension soaked up the bump. Then I decided to hit it straight one fast, which resulted in the car somersaulting and a stripped steering servo. No big deal, decided to head to the LHS to get another futabo servo, no luck. The owner suggested that I through in one of mine hitec servos from my planes. Which brings me to my questions. When I installed the servo it seemed to turn too far? Also seemed not to grab the steering horn very well.

1. Are hitec servos compatible?
2. Do I need to adjust the travel in my servos?

Also I went ahead and ordered a Airtonics servo with metal gears. I'm probably going to add the steering horn to my order just in case I did strip it.


Thanks again for your input.

Jason

crazyswede

I had to use the red servo horn that came with my 645mg. Sorry I can't help on the travel thing mine worked fine right away.

jaywebguy

crazywede,

Actually the one I ordered was the Hobbico CS-70MG Servo Super Torque 2BB U. Don't ask how I came up with Airtonic. So If I want to use one of my hitec ones for today, which servo horn do you suggest and if possible do you have a picture of how you set it up? I want to run it again today, that car is a blast. Also, when I take a temp reading it should be of the cylinder head not the muffler, right? The reason I ask is because I ran 4 tanks through my car yesterday, and the hottest the head got was about 96 degrees.

Thanks man.

Jason

crazyswede

Sorry I dont have a picture with it mounted but here is the horn u want. Cut off where the x's are and you should be good to go. What %nitro fuel are you running? If your running 10% real rich you can have some low reading's. I run 20% and keep it in the 220's. You want it to run hotter than 96deg for better performance.

nitroguy123

My Feedback: (3)

I cant help you out on the servos because ive never dealt with airplane ones. But i Can tell you hitec ones are compatible with the stock servo horn. Thats what i use on my hitec 625. And yes you are supposed to check the temperature on the Heat sink. I would think it would be impossible to run your engine below a hundred degrees. You may want to check out the device you used to check it with. If its a laser temp gun make sure you get the reading at the glowplug and not the top fin on the heat sink. The engine should run in the 200-230 range. But since your only on your 4th tank you should be still breaking it in and it might run a little cooler.

ICrashThings

i have that servo...[&:]