crazyswede

After you remove the pull start there will be a starter shaft left exposed. That's it! You put the yank eliminatore in your drill then put it squarly on the starter shaft and crank away!

sledfire

How do you add pictures????

Old Bill

Crazyswede, how long have you been using your Yank Eliminator? The rollers fell out of mine around the 6th time I used it and I tried hard to keep it centered on the shaft. Its a good idea, but the product itself is junk in my opinion. I've put my pull start back on.

sledfire

Oh and has anyone found out the release date for the Alumnium shock towers.

crazyswede

I'll use a one way bearing and a socket before I go back to pull start. I have only used it 3 times so far no problems. If it fails you can ship it back to hgi and for $9 labor and shipping they fix it or most likely send a new one. I did get a tip from a guy at the track who said not to prime the engine. Just crank with the igniter till it fires up. He said if you prime the engine first you could flood the engine and lock it up. Being that the drill has so much torque I can see where the bearing in the eliminator could take a beating. I'll keep ya'll posted.

RayRayraycer20

maybe I'll hold off on the Yank eliminator(due to old bill's post).Its a great Idea, and thanks for the tip crazyswede.Let us all know how well it holds up.I really like the Idea of just grabbin the dewalt and pullin the trigger.

MotorPsyko

The rear one is already available on tower, the front one is due out this month some time.

RayRayraycer20

motorpsyko, I was lookin at some pics you posted.you have some cool lookin crome rims on your truck....what kind and where did you get? Thanks

MotorPsyko

Hey Ray, thanks for the compliment =)

They are RPM rims for the XXT, I got them from tower. They fit on pretty nice although I think I need new internal spacers for the front ones becusae the stock one I have is a bit too short and it's pretty loose in there... don't think it will hurt it too much but I like to be through. The only thing that bothers me is that the hubs of the front rims are thicker than the DTX dish rims so the nut doesnt go as far down... so I'm a bit concerned that it might fall out during bashing... I'm toying with the idea of using locking compound but I'm gonna run them a bit first to see if the nuts stay on nicely. Oh yeah I had to shave off some of the inside edge of the front rims to avoid rubbing on the horn thing.

MotorPsyko

What do you guys think of this engine? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFYN7&P=Z

I'm considering switching to that for my evader... rotostart is too sexy. I guess my question is do you think it will drop in pretty easily? HPI claims it will fit any .12-.15 car (I think I read the DTX.18 is just a .15 with a big bore?)

It's a nice price too.... $69 vs $109.... It's about the same for a piston/cylinder rebuild kit... HPI also makes a .18 that claims to fit any .12-1.5 car but the price point on it is kinda high.... although HPI also claims that thier .18 can reach speeds of 60mph....[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Thoughts? Opinions? Flames?

ninjaspeed

Well, I read a review for the nitro Rush Evo and they said that engine propelled it to around thirty. Seems like a great deal though!

MotorPsyko

sigh... my evader and LHS's all hate me.[sm=punching.gif] Stupid screw on the exaust came loose again, thereby also chewing up the gasket... none of my LHS's carry the right screw nor the gaskets. Seems all the LHS carry are t-maxx/savage stuff in any abundance with a smattering of buggy things... Guess I should have known considering I live in Texas. I wanna move to champaign IL heh....

I also need to loosen up my slipper a bit... I couldnt keep the thing in a striaght line for the life of me today heh

rifler917

Hey, I put in a new piston and sleave in yesturnday and it runs nice now i almost done breaking it in. Whell My birthdays cooming soon and i want to by a new engine for my car I ve been looking a came across this, Epic .18 Rotary Carburetor Engine, [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXERB6&P=0]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXERB6&P=0[/link]

Do you think its a good engine and if not give some names of good engines that fit easy in the Nitro Evader ST. Thanks

Old Bill

MotorPsyko, HPI exhaust gaskets will fit nicely. I bought mine at Hobby Town and I'm pretty sure you have one in San Antonio. Also, barring that, careful (and thin) application of hi-temp silicon (sensor safe) will do a good job. As far as the bolts, go to a fastener supply house and buy 2 bolts the same outside diameter, but slightly longer, and buy lock washer and nuts. Go ahead and use blue Loctite too and you'll never have one loosen again.

MotorPsyko

Old Bill, that's almost exactly what I'm up to at the moment. Unfortunatly I called my local HobbyTown and they did not have that type of gasket at all, only the round ones.

So heres what I ended up buying from tower:

new gaskets
5mm LONGER screws (stock screw is 25mm I got 30mm)
3mm lock nuts
3mm lock washers

I already have some thread locking compound that I'm gonna slather on there real good

and... AND... For good measure I'm going to put some e-clips on the very end of all that so that even if the thread locker breaks down and the nuts come loose at least the e-clip will stop them from falling off.... well I hope so anyway =)

ComBatMan2k3

ive often wondered if a startersystem like the one on a t-maxx or hpi would work on the evader if u had enuff room for it or would it just be a complete waste of time?? im just waiting to get my new steering servo..Futaba S3305 Standard High-Torque Servo w/Metal Gears .question...i wunder what it would take for these rims to work on the evader...their Pro-Line 40 Series Mambo Wheel 2.5 Maxx/Savage or the RPM Slingshot Rear Chrome Associated 1/4"...i wanna put some larger tires and rims on my evader...but just dont know how to go about it...i want tires that will have real good traction in the mud and snow..but im not sure if i wanna go the paddfle route just yet...any suggestions??

dicko

Don't bother buying gaskets, make your own. Get a manilla folder & cut out a rectangle that is bigger than the gasket size. Then clean your exhaust port on your engine & lightly greese it. Carefully press the piece of manilla folder onto the exhaust port & the greese will give you a perfect outline to cut out. Once you cut it out you have yourself a gasket. I use this method for all my engines & once you get used to doing it you will become very good at it. And 1 manilla folder makes thousands of gaskets, and costs the same price as 1 gasket.

I ran the sway bar yesterday & it's broken all ready. They work really well, but are very susceptible to breaking when you run up the rear of another car.

I need new tyres. Going down to the LHS to pick up some new bow ties today.

MotorPsyko

Hey thanks for the tip dicko! I will try that! How durable are those home-made gaskets thugh? I tried making one out of plastic and it was blown out within 20 minutes.

dicko

If you make them out of cardboard manilla folders, they are as durable or more durable than the ones you will buy. Plastic will melt, so don't even bother with it. Just make sure you cut them out neat with no weak spots that can blow out. The only important cuts are the internal hole & screw holes. It doesn't matter if the outside is bigger, it isn't in contact with the exhaust gasses. You want the exhaust gasses to flow as freely as possible, so try to get the internal hole neat & tidy.

Another hint. When you screw the manifold on, squeeze some locktite into the manifold holes, and wipe the excess off. if you get locktite on the gasket it will stick to the manifold or engine & rip when you pull it off next time. This saves fiddling round making extra gaskets.

rifler917

HI, I have A nito Evader ST for about 4 months now and is very disapointed. I Recomand if your looking for a car that doesn't have trouble go with traxxas and ofna just save a little more money and buy a better car a beg you. THis car is a peace of **** NO I take that back The engine for this car is a peace of ****. THat the only trouble i got. I put 4 new piston in in 2 weeks. **** THis CAR[:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@]

Dont spend you money on this car

rifler917

stupid forum block out my curse words

MotorPsyko

Yeah... the stupid forum...

Sorry to hear you had bad luck with the evader. Good luck on your new truck(s)

dicko

I still think it is good value for money. & you can't complain with all the stress tech warranty & 2 year warranty on the engine. Show me another car that has a 2 year warranty on an engine & 1 year warranty on plastic parts.

I have changed the engine to an OS CV-RX, but I was intending to do that anyway. You can't race an 18 in a comp.

All cars will have problems, & this is a pretty good car strait up, i'm sure the second version will be a lot better.

dicko

I just emailed Duratrax to see if they sold the parts I broke on my swaybar seperately, they don't, but they are sending out a new sway bar kit free of charge anyway. Now that's pretty good service.

Cheers
Dicko.

rifler917

True Sorry for dissing the Evader but i got mad when my carbretainer srew that holdes the carb on rattled out and sand got in to the engine and i was in the break in proocess with the 4 new piston and sleve.

I just wont a new engine and is looking for a engine for this car is a Epic a good engine or what engine should i get for this car i will go fro a .15 or .18 like the Epic .18.

Just give me some hint on a good engine that runs fast and will fit in the Nitro Evader ST


Thanks for listening.