Shihtzutan

Does anyone have any ideas how to replicate the flying wires on a 1/6 scale Stearman? In reality they are solid steel airfoil shaped guide wire. Anyone? The elastic thread on this GP Stearman is pathetic!

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

Have a look at this, maybe this will help you. http://www.nelsonhobby.com/wires.html

Shihtzutan

Wow, that looks perfect. I'm hoping it won't be too big for a 1/6 scale. Thank, I will check them out!

scratchonly

I think you're going to pay big bucks for wires retail. My method is to clean 2 music wires and sand them shiny. Get some acid paste flux and coat hem thoroughly. lay them on a metal surface; I use an aluminum straight edge sides touching. the flux should hold them together. Solder them together with a large (100 watt Iron) at both ends and the center, about 1/2 inch. Continue to solder them all the way. Any gaps, go back and fill them in. Flip the whole thing over and do the other side. With practice you can do 4 20" wires in an hour. Sand them with course then fine sand paper till smooth. I use a body file for this. Rig up ends any way that suits you. I usually build in loops in the wire wherethey go under the wing struts. This sounds like more work than it actually is. If you want to get fancy add a third wire slightly larger in the center to simulate rolled steel which is oval in shape. Leve the center wire longer to attach fittings. When I priced rolled wire It was 25 bucks for 1 24" wire. total for plane = 200 smackers! Good luck.

HalH

My Feedback: (12)

Nelson's flying wires are $26.95 for 24' .

Shihtzutan

Scratchonly, you have got me thinking . . . your method solves the size issue nicely and I don't mind the work. I fly the hell out of this particular airplane and I'm not looking for museum quality (just something more convincing). One more question remains, . . . how wide are the wires on a full scale Searman? I'm guessing about an inch.

LesUyeda

Somewhere on Nelson's web site was a chart of various aircraft and flying wire sizes. According to that, the Stearman wires were in the neighborhood of 1/2 inch.

Les

Pitts S1S

My Feedback: (9)

Stearman flying wires are 3/4" wide at most.

Reg Hinnant

My Feedback: (9)

Mick reeves has flat stainless rigging in 1/16", 3/32", 1/8". 5 metre roll £3.50. The fork end kit that you silver solder to each end is also listed. Look under "Sopwiths" at his web site. www.mickreevesmodels.co.uk/
This is used on his 1/4 & 1/3 scale Sopwith Camels/Pup/Strutter.

Shihtzutan

Thanks all for the contributions . . . not wanting to spend a bundle or put a ton of work into this ARF, here's what I came up with! At .99 cents a roll for 5 yard, this looks 10 times better, however if it wasn't for you guys getting my wheels turning, sort to speak, I wouldn't have come up with this. Cut to length, folded over the ends, slip the loop onto a clevis. I'll post a pic when it's all together. For anyone who's interested, you can but this stuff at any arts and craft store!

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

Be very careful - that stuff may stretch and flap in the breeze very easily. You could wind up with some MAJOR flutter problems.

Shihtzutan

Flew her today and the flight went fine, full throttle and down wind didn't cause anything unusual. I stretched the lacing pretty tight and plan on adding that broomstick looking thing where the wires cross in the near future. My guess is that this is some sort of stabilizer to dampen any oscillation should it occur. Keep in mind that these flying wires are non functional and are for aesthetic purposes only. The flying wires look pretty authentic in flight, but I'm not happy with the oversize looking clevis.

Shihtzutan

Thanks for everyones help! Just discussing these things gets the creative juices flowing! Here's my final prodcut. Extensive flights, no problems at all. Lacing is cut 1 inch too short then stretched on a clevis. I discribe it in greater detail on the Warbirds forum for those who are interested!

PLANE JIM

My Feedback: (109)

I have also used automotive wiper blades-the stainless steel metal strips that reinforce alot of wiper blades-works well for bracing and wire duplications

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I used the craft lace several years ago for flying wires on my Gee Bee Model D. Nick Ziroli, I beleive wrote and article in one of the mags, so I tried it. Worked perfect, and never got loose, even in the heat of the summer. planning to use it on the Adrian Paige Gee Bee R-2 I am building now.

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

Talked to Jerry Nelson last week and his shaped flying wires are no longer available. He suggested using clock spring which is available from Proctor Enterprises. Proctor sells it in rolls for flying wire.

Dan

buzzingb

My Feedback: (2)

I would avoid the plasic craft lace as it does stretch under load.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Mine never did. And it gets pretty hot here in the summer. Besides, they are cosmetic, not functional.

Shihtzutan

TLH101, your clevis set up looks different than the way I did it. Do you have a close up pic of it?

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

No, those are the only pics I have. I only used clevises at the fuse. On the wings and wheel pants, there are plastic tubes imbedded and the "wires" run through the tubes and connect inside the pants. The clevises are attached with the small brass threaded ends. I cut the lacing to a taper point, and glue the brass threaded end on with CA. The connector at the fuse is a plastic tab with holes drilled for the clevises.
I'll try to take, and post some pics when I start on the wires for my R-2. Should be in the next week or 2.

Shihtzutan

Ok, I thought it looked different. I looped back my lacing and crimped it, the loop goes over the clevis pin and holds the lacing into the wind. I used square tubing on the other end, also to hold it into the wind. We have our clevis's reversed; yours is more scale. Nice job.

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

Ziroli swears by the plastic lacing. His website might show applications.