F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
09-26-2010, 05:58 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somewhere,
NY
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Rim,
The biggest problem there is in choosing a motor for 3 cells THROUGH 6 cells is that you would need to consider prop size.
There is no single motor for all of your requirements (IMHO)
The 16/30/2c is the most versatile one out there. You can run 3 cells and an 8 inch prop up to 5 cells and a 6.5 inch prop. It is still a trade off......... as you go up in cells, you need to drop down in prop size.
The 16/40/1.5sc is the next best choice, but you will have to run larger batteries than the 30/2, as it will consume more power, but will also deliver better performance. Again, 3 cells with an 8 inch prop, and POSSIBLY 6 cells with a 6.5 inch prop, but if you are looking for MAX speeds, the 40/1.5sc will be faster on 5 cells with a 7 inch prop than it would be on 6 cells and a 6.5 inch prop (if you can launch it on 6 cells with the 6.5 inch prop)
Again, this is just my opinion, but higher speeds mean bigger props on our Strykers.
The biggest problem there is in choosing a motor for 3 cells THROUGH 6 cells is that you would need to consider prop size.
There is no single motor for all of your requirements (IMHO)
The 16/30/2c is the most versatile one out there. You can run 3 cells and an 8 inch prop up to 5 cells and a 6.5 inch prop. It is still a trade off......... as you go up in cells, you need to drop down in prop size.
The 16/40/1.5sc is the next best choice, but you will have to run larger batteries than the 30/2, as it will consume more power, but will also deliver better performance. Again, 3 cells with an 8 inch prop, and POSSIBLY 6 cells with a 6.5 inch prop, but if you are looking for MAX speeds, the 40/1.5sc will be faster on 5 cells with a 7 inch prop than it would be on 6 cells and a 6.5 inch prop (if you can launch it on 6 cells with the 6.5 inch prop)
Again, this is just my opinion, but higher speeds mean bigger props on our Strykers.
09-26-2010, 07:18 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Falun, AB, CANADA
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
O.k thanks Mopar for that info,from the 16/30/2c sounds pretty good would it be capable of 140 propped right?I may just spend the extra dough and get the 16/40/1.5sc,what is the minimal batt. size that could be run with that mill?
Greg.
Greg.
09-26-2010, 07:47 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Spartanburg,
SC
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
ALL RIGHT ALL YOU GUYS WHO CAN GET HERE....BRING YOUR JUNK TO SHOW IT OFF
http://www.joenall.com/
THIS GIVES US A WHOLE YEAR TO GET READY
I'm checking into something going on at Nall this weekend...still a rumor I'll post Monday with anything on a local electric fly in this coming week end....It may have been mixed in with the next year date....I'll make some calls
c
http://www.joenall.com/
THIS GIVES US A WHOLE YEAR TO GET READY
I'm checking into something going on at Nall this weekend...still a rumor I'll post Monday with anything on a local electric fly in this coming week end....It may have been mixed in with the next year date....I'll make some calls
c
09-26-2010, 11:25 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Roanoke, TX
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Lite Twin Build:
Here's a little more detail on my balsa trailing edges that I installed on the twin.
A wooden trailing edge gives a more secure mounting point for hinging control surfaces, and also adds some stiffness to that area of the wing. Good thing to run on most Strykers.
In most planes, you run a squared-off trailing edge, and add a bevel to the control surface to allow for hinge movement. Since my elevons will be top-hinged on this plane, I decided to put the bevel on the TE of the wing by using a piece of triangle stock. I still beveled the elevon very slightly, but it didn't take much to achieve over 45 degrees of travel.
After the TE stock is glued on, any material hanging over the top or bottom of the wing surface should be trimmed off with a saw, block plane, knife, or by sanding. You can check with a straightedge on the surface of the wing. I hate sanding with a passion, so I shave mine with a block plane.
Here's a little more detail on my balsa trailing edges that I installed on the twin.
A wooden trailing edge gives a more secure mounting point for hinging control surfaces, and also adds some stiffness to that area of the wing. Good thing to run on most Strykers.
In most planes, you run a squared-off trailing edge, and add a bevel to the control surface to allow for hinge movement. Since my elevons will be top-hinged on this plane, I decided to put the bevel on the TE of the wing by using a piece of triangle stock. I still beveled the elevon very slightly, but it didn't take much to achieve over 45 degrees of travel.
After the TE stock is glued on, any material hanging over the top or bottom of the wing surface should be trimmed off with a saw, block plane, knife, or by sanding. You can check with a straightedge on the surface of the wing. I hate sanding with a passion, so I shave mine with a block plane.
09-27-2010, 02:49 AM
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somewhere,
NY
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
ORIGINAL: Rimripper
1. O.k thanks Mopar for that info,from the 16/30/2c sounds pretty good would it be capable of 140 propped right?
2. I may just spend the extra dough and get the 16/40/1.5sc,what is the minimal batt. size that could be run with that mill?
Greg.
1. O.k thanks Mopar for that info,from the 16/30/2c sounds pretty good would it be capable of 140 propped right?
2. I may just spend the extra dough and get the 16/40/1.5sc,what is the minimal batt. size that could be run with that mill?
Greg.
2. It all depends on what size prop you decide to run and how fast you want it to be. Comparing with the 30/2, the 40/1.5s will pull less amperage on the same prop, but you will be able to use bigger props and it will take more power without damaging anything. Remember they are vastly different kv motors, but I put them in the same category as versatile animals capable of different cell arrangements, insane verticals, and very fast speeds. The 40/1.5s will be faster though.
3. If I may ???? I would humbly suggest that you coat those elevons and trailing edges with some epoxy on your orange colored Stryker. Your extra efforts in getting all of your "hangers" removed need protection from the moisture and wetness that grass keeps. A little epoxy is well worth its weight in gold here, as balsa or bass swells, they tend to splinter or fray which will cause extra drag and result in more sanding. The epoxy will "seal the deal" for you very well here.
09-27-2010, 02:52 AM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somewhere,
NY
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
ORIGINAL: murdnunoc
Lite Twin Build:
Here's a little more detail on my balsa trailing edges that I installed on the twin.
A wooden trailing edge gives a more secure mounting point for hinging control surfaces, and also adds some stiffness to that area of the wing. Good thing to run on most Strykers.
In most planes, you run a squared-off trailing edge, and add a bevel to the control surface to allow for hinge movement. Since my elevons will be top-hinged on this plane, I decided to put the bevel on the TE of the wing by using a piece of triangle stock. I still beveled the elevon very slightly, but it didn't take much to achieve over 45 degrees of travel.
After the TE stock is glued on, any material hanging over the top or bottom of the wing surface should be trimmed off with a saw, block plane, knife, or by sanding. You can check with a straightedge on the surface of the wing. I hate sanding with a passion, so I shave mine with a block plane.
Lite Twin Build:
Here's a little more detail on my balsa trailing edges that I installed on the twin.
A wooden trailing edge gives a more secure mounting point for hinging control surfaces, and also adds some stiffness to that area of the wing. Good thing to run on most Strykers.
In most planes, you run a squared-off trailing edge, and add a bevel to the control surface to allow for hinge movement. Since my elevons will be top-hinged on this plane, I decided to put the bevel on the TE of the wing by using a piece of triangle stock. I still beveled the elevon very slightly, but it didn't take much to achieve over 45 degrees of travel.
After the TE stock is glued on, any material hanging over the top or bottom of the wing surface should be trimmed off with a saw, block plane, knife, or by sanding. You can check with a straightedge on the surface of the wing. I hate sanding with a passion, so I shave mine with a block plane.
Please keep it up and show everyone how to hinge that "top hinged" trailing edge/elevon arrangement. As you well know, some Dudes can benefit and get extra speeds from well hinged and streamlined elevons, and a top hinge is one perfect way to start !!!!
Well done Lord Murdo !!!!!
09-27-2010, 07:15 AM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Falun, AB, CANADA
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Well I have decided that the 16/40/1.5 will be my choice,I will be ordering it later this week,Ive also got a custom mount going to be shipped.I did add a thin coat of epoxy to the elevrons it might be hard to see but I did,maybe a little more wouldnt hurt.I will surely post some pics when I get the motor and mount on the orange bird,and post pics of the build in progess.Thanks for the help and pointers to make my stryker become a speed demon!!!
Greg.
Greg.
09-27-2010, 10:22 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Askim, NORWAY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Lord Murdo:
Have to say your timing is perfect! Was planning to attach the elevons in this way to my latest build tonight.... Maybe I'll wait for you to post the next step
.
Please hurry....
Have to say your timing is perfect! Was planning to attach the elevons in this way to my latest build tonight.... Maybe I'll wait for you to post the next step
.Please hurry....
09-27-2010, 08:23 PM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Roanoke, TX
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Lite Twin Build:
Elevons:
I'm not quite to the point on the twin build where I can post up the elevon hinging, but I can go through the process of how I do it.
First, trailing edge preparation consists of shaving the wood TE to where it blends seamlessly with the rest of the wing. As I mentioned before, you can do this by sanding or shaving with a knife or block plane.
If you're looking for maximum performance, the elevon shape also needs to match the shape of the TE of the wing. If you look closely at the thickness of the wing's TE, you'll see that the wing is thinner in the middle section. This means that when the elevon matches the wing, the leading edge of the elevon will have a thinner area in its center, just like the TE of the wing.
I also shape the elevon with a block plane before I attach it to the wing. Sanding works just as well, but I like the speed and flat cut that the block plane makes.
If you're using a flat trailing edge and making your own elevons from 3/8x1 1/2" "trailing edge stock" you will need to sand or cut a bevel for the hinge. This is better done after you shape the elevon to make it thinner in the middle to match the wing. It makes it easier to check your elevon shaping so you can tell when it's the right shape when you hold it up to the wing. After it's shaped, you can plane or sand the bevel into the leading edge of the elevon.
For a beveled trailing edge like I'm running on this twin, it's a little tougher to determine when the elevon is perfectly shaped, but this isn't a max performance build, so it's no big worry to me.
On high performance builds, I'll still run a square hardwood trailing edge and a beveled elevon.
Elevons:
I'm not quite to the point on the twin build where I can post up the elevon hinging, but I can go through the process of how I do it.
First, trailing edge preparation consists of shaving the wood TE to where it blends seamlessly with the rest of the wing. As I mentioned before, you can do this by sanding or shaving with a knife or block plane.
If you're looking for maximum performance, the elevon shape also needs to match the shape of the TE of the wing. If you look closely at the thickness of the wing's TE, you'll see that the wing is thinner in the middle section. This means that when the elevon matches the wing, the leading edge of the elevon will have a thinner area in its center, just like the TE of the wing.
I also shape the elevon with a block plane before I attach it to the wing. Sanding works just as well, but I like the speed and flat cut that the block plane makes.
If you're using a flat trailing edge and making your own elevons from 3/8x1 1/2" "trailing edge stock" you will need to sand or cut a bevel for the hinge. This is better done after you shape the elevon to make it thinner in the middle to match the wing. It makes it easier to check your elevon shaping so you can tell when it's the right shape when you hold it up to the wing. After it's shaped, you can plane or sand the bevel into the leading edge of the elevon.
For a beveled trailing edge like I'm running on this twin, it's a little tougher to determine when the elevon is perfectly shaped, but this isn't a max performance build, so it's no big worry to me.
On high performance builds, I'll still run a square hardwood trailing edge and a beveled elevon.
09-27-2010, 09:06 PM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Roanoke, TX
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
The elevon shaping was a little bit of a detour from my goal of describing how I do a top-bevel tape hinge, but it fits into the process of the build, so I wanted to share it now.
Once you already have your elevons shaped to the wing, and the bevel cut in either the trailing edge of the wing, or the leading edge of the elevon, you can hinge the elevons.
NOTE: if you will be painting your model, or fiberglassing, or covering with Monokote, you want to do that BEFORE you hinge the elevons with a tape hinge. A tape hinge is one of the last things you will do in a covered build.
For the tape hinges:
Hold your elevon up to the wing in the position it will be mounted. Then flip the elevon up so it's laying on top of the wing. The edge of the wing should line up with the edge of the elevon.
While you press the elevon and trailing edge tight together, apply one long piece of tape to both surfaces. Wrap the rest of the tape around the bottom side of the elevon and the underside of the wing.
When you unflip the elevon, you should have about a 1mm gap.
The evenness and size of your gap will depend on how tightly you pressed the elevon and trailing edge together when you stuck the piece of tape down.
Assuring that the gap is even, lay a second piece of tape across the top surface of the wing. Don't push the elevon too tight up to the wing, or the bottom tape will hump up and you'll have a bump in your hinge. Likewise, don't pull the elevon away from the wing when you lay the top tape, or the two pieces of tape won't stick together in the gap, which is where a tape hinge gets its security. We all know that when tape gets two sticky sides stuck together, there's almost no unsticking them!
Once both pieces of tape are applied and well stuck down to all surfaces, you can run a thin, but not sharp, object down the inside of the hinge, pressing the two pieces of tape together in the gap.
You now have a super tough, very flexible hinge that only took a few minutes.
Couple notes:
- 3M/Scotch "Mailing and Storage Tape" has proven the best tape for hinges. It's thicker, less brittle, and stickier than standard packing tape. It's also moisture and UV resistant.
The new "Shipping Tape", which is advertised as 20 times stronger than normal packing tape, may be another candidate.
- Do NOT use "hinge tape" or Blenderm as your main hinge. It is too stretchy and not strong enough. This tape is for light foamies, and will not hold up to the forces on a Stryker. Blenderm does have a great use in sealing a hinge gap on CA or nylon hinges, but not in the application of primary hinge material.
- It's an easier install to do the top piece of tape first, then flip the elevon over and tape the bottom, but I've found that this leaves the elevon deflected up when it has no force on it. This tells me the tapes are stretching against each other when at zero deflection, and I'd rather have them with zero force on them at neutral.
- Spraying the surfaces to be stuck with tape with 3M77 or 3M90 spray adhesive will greatly increase the tape's holding power. This may be nearly a requirement when sticking straight to foam.
Once you already have your elevons shaped to the wing, and the bevel cut in either the trailing edge of the wing, or the leading edge of the elevon, you can hinge the elevons.
NOTE: if you will be painting your model, or fiberglassing, or covering with Monokote, you want to do that BEFORE you hinge the elevons with a tape hinge. A tape hinge is one of the last things you will do in a covered build.
For the tape hinges:
Hold your elevon up to the wing in the position it will be mounted. Then flip the elevon up so it's laying on top of the wing. The edge of the wing should line up with the edge of the elevon.
While you press the elevon and trailing edge tight together, apply one long piece of tape to both surfaces. Wrap the rest of the tape around the bottom side of the elevon and the underside of the wing.
When you unflip the elevon, you should have about a 1mm gap.
The evenness and size of your gap will depend on how tightly you pressed the elevon and trailing edge together when you stuck the piece of tape down.
Assuring that the gap is even, lay a second piece of tape across the top surface of the wing. Don't push the elevon too tight up to the wing, or the bottom tape will hump up and you'll have a bump in your hinge. Likewise, don't pull the elevon away from the wing when you lay the top tape, or the two pieces of tape won't stick together in the gap, which is where a tape hinge gets its security. We all know that when tape gets two sticky sides stuck together, there's almost no unsticking them!
Once both pieces of tape are applied and well stuck down to all surfaces, you can run a thin, but not sharp, object down the inside of the hinge, pressing the two pieces of tape together in the gap.
You now have a super tough, very flexible hinge that only took a few minutes.
Couple notes:
- 3M/Scotch "Mailing and Storage Tape" has proven the best tape for hinges. It's thicker, less brittle, and stickier than standard packing tape. It's also moisture and UV resistant.
The new "Shipping Tape", which is advertised as 20 times stronger than normal packing tape, may be another candidate.
- Do NOT use "hinge tape" or Blenderm as your main hinge. It is too stretchy and not strong enough. This tape is for light foamies, and will not hold up to the forces on a Stryker. Blenderm does have a great use in sealing a hinge gap on CA or nylon hinges, but not in the application of primary hinge material.
- It's an easier install to do the top piece of tape first, then flip the elevon over and tape the bottom, but I've found that this leaves the elevon deflected up when it has no force on it. This tells me the tapes are stretching against each other when at zero deflection, and I'd rather have them with zero force on them at neutral.
- Spraying the surfaces to be stuck with tape with 3M77 or 3M90 spray adhesive will greatly increase the tape's holding power. This may be nearly a requirement when sticking straight to foam.
09-27-2010, 10:11 PM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Falun, AB, CANADA
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Very nice info Murdo,I will use this for my build on my new Stryker,I couldnt feiw the full pic for some reason they wouldnt blow up on the screen for me from the smaller pics I can get the picture.Lots of detail on your building skills!!!I like the mono coat look also that must save alot of drag too.When you have the 1mm gap at the end of the build (silly question)is there any binding of the aileron to the trailing edge?
09-28-2010, 02:19 AM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlotte,
NC
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Rimripper,
If your 3S and 4S are exact same cells and in same condition you can run some good size props on my motor on 7S, then send it back and go buy whatever you want.
Anyway that is just a thought.
I need to catch up on a bunch of posts and other things.
Have fun
Gryphon
If your 3S and 4S are exact same cells and in same condition you can run some good size props on my motor on 7S, then send it back and go buy whatever you want.
Anyway that is just a thought.
I need to catch up on a bunch of posts and other things.
Have fun
Gryphon
09-28-2010, 08:38 AM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Roanoke, TX
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
ORIGINAL: Rimripper
Very nice info Murdo,I will use this for my build on my new Stryker,I couldnt feiw the full pic for some reason they wouldnt blow up on the screen for me from the smaller pics I can get the picture.Lots of detail on your building skills!!!I like the mono coat look also that must save alot of drag too.When you have the 1mm gap at the end of the build (silly question)is there any binding of the aileron to the trailing edge?
Very nice info Murdo,I will use this for my build on my new Stryker,I couldnt feiw the full pic for some reason they wouldnt blow up on the screen for me from the smaller pics I can get the picture.Lots of detail on your building skills!!!I like the mono coat look also that must save alot of drag too.When you have the 1mm gap at the end of the build (silly question)is there any binding of the aileron to the trailing edge?
I haven't used it yet on the Stryker for high speed builds.
However, it's a proven build technique that's worked well way beyond 150mph on the Ritewings, another popular high performance flying wing design, and I see no reason it wouldn't work on the Stryker at high speed.
I'm going to be running lots of CA hinges on my current speedster build. But I'll run the tape hinge on the build after this one. Or maybe I should start a fourth build to go with the other three I have halfway finished now!
Rimripper and Arcteryxxx,
I don't have any reason not to run the tape hinge on fast Strykers. Only letting you know I haven't done it yet.
I wouldn't have posted the method if I didn't think it'll work.
If you do it, just keep an eye on it to make sure it's not trying to peel up or something. If it gets to where you don't like it, you can always slice it off and dig in some CA or nylon hinges.
09-28-2010, 08:47 AM
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Roanoke, TX
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
ORIGINAL: Rimripper
I couldnt feiw the full pic for some reason they wouldnt blow up on the screen for me from the smaller pics I can get the picture.
I like the mono coat look also that must save alot of drag too.
When you have the 1mm gap at the end of the build (silly question)is there any binding of the aileron to the trailing edge?
I couldnt feiw the full pic for some reason they wouldnt blow up on the screen for me from the smaller pics I can get the picture.
I like the mono coat look also that must save alot of drag too.
When you have the 1mm gap at the end of the build (silly question)is there any binding of the aileron to the trailing edge?
The Monokote is awesome! It evens things out a lot, stretching over the little irregularities. The plane in the pic is fiberglassed with roofing repair fabric and 3M90 adhesive. I don't think Monokote is needed with epoxy and traditional fiberglass. But it worked great when covering the glass on this plane!
The slight hinge gap serves two purposes:
1. Lets the two pieces of tape stick to each other, creating strength.
2. Adds freedom to the hinge since it allows a tight curve instead of a sharp bend when the hinge bends. There's no binding, and it has more free movement than CA hinges.
09-28-2010, 12:55 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Spartanburg,
SC
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
ATTENTION
THERE WILL BE A ELECTRIC FLY IN THIS WEEKEND STAURDAY OCT. 2ND AT TRIPLE TREE AERODOME.....SITE OF THE JOE NALL
STARTS AT 9 AM AND GOES UNTIL
THAT'S ALL THE INFO I HAVE. IT'S NOT PUBLISHED. YOU MUST HAVE AMA CARD OR IMAC CARD IT MAY BE 2.4 ONLY SO BE PREPARED
Here's a link look for the direction tab if you need them
http://www.joenall.com/
I'll be there with or with out a plane as I'm pushed this week at work. I'll be video taping for sure. Film will be posted on my youtube site
http://www.youtube.com/user/chippedprop49
click the title of the vid. and it will go to a must better player on youtube.
Cp
THERE WILL BE A ELECTRIC FLY IN THIS WEEKEND STAURDAY OCT. 2ND AT TRIPLE TREE AERODOME.....SITE OF THE JOE NALL
STARTS AT 9 AM AND GOES UNTIL
THAT'S ALL THE INFO I HAVE. IT'S NOT PUBLISHED. YOU MUST HAVE AMA CARD OR IMAC CARD IT MAY BE 2.4 ONLY SO BE PREPARED
Here's a link look for the direction tab if you need them
http://www.joenall.com/
I'll be there with or with out a plane as I'm pushed this week at work. I'll be video taping for sure. Film will be posted on my youtube site
http://www.youtube.com/user/chippedprop49
click the title of the vid. and it will go to a must better player on youtube.
Cp
09-28-2010, 01:04 PM
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Askim, NORWAY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Went to work on mine yesterday....
[img]file:///C:/Users/Peter/Pictures/RC%20Bilder/Elevon_toothpicks.jpg[/img]Epoxy, 2 screws through wood and 2 toothpicks through foam per hinge on the TE, epoxy and 4 toothpicks and 1 screw per hinge on the elevon (screw not fitted yet). Elevons painted with epoxy and reinforced by strips of CF filaments. Will add wipers top and bottom to secure good airflow to the elevons.
[img]file:///C:/Users/Peter/Pictures/RC%20Bilder/Elevon_toothpicks.jpg[/img]Epoxy, 2 screws through wood and 2 toothpicks through foam per hinge on the TE, epoxy and 4 toothpicks and 1 screw per hinge on the elevon (screw not fitted yet). Elevons painted with epoxy and reinforced by strips of CF filaments. Will add wipers top and bottom to secure good airflow to the elevons.
09-28-2010, 02:55 PM
#44
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somewhere,
NY
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
How are you going to smoothe out the top of the elevon, where the hinge is so that the airflow hitting the hinge doesnt cause excess drag ?
NICE paintjob !!!!
NICE paintjob !!!!
09-28-2010, 03:45 PM
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Askim, NORWAY
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Will be using The KID's wipers. Couldn't think of any better solution. The hinges are flush with the TE pine and the screwheads are grinded with Dremel.
With the big MEGA pushing a high pitch 7incher at 150amps this horse will be hard enough for me to control anyway, so maybe it's okay if it's not aerodynamically perfect....
There's always the next one...!!!!
Thanks for the comment on the colour scheme. Black and white stripes Mopar way on the belly
With the big MEGA pushing a high pitch 7incher at 150amps this horse will be hard enough for me to control anyway, so maybe it's okay if it's not aerodynamically perfect....
There's always the next one...!!!!
Thanks for the comment on the colour scheme. Black and white stripes Mopar way on the belly
09-28-2010, 10:39 PM
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Roanoke, TX
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Arc,
Interesting take on the use of nylon hinges. Keeps you from having to cut slots.
I'm a little worried about the security of the system, though. I really wish I could say I wasn't, but I am...
When a hinge, be it the CA type or the nylon pin hinges, is dug into a slot, the only force that can be applied to it to rip it free is a direct pull front to back. Any up and down force is restricted by the walls of the slot, and the pulling force is acting on the glue joint's shearing axis, which is very strong, especially when reinforced with toothpicks or other pins.
With the hinge installed only on the surface, it's allowed to be pulled on in the front to back direction, as well as the up and down direction. The joint doesn't have as much strength when the force is applied in the axis perpendicular to the glue line.
It's good that you took the step of installing the toothpicks and screws. It may be enough to be secure. I would always be looking at those elevons with a distrusting, sideways glance, though.
If you desire to add security without tearing apart the hinges, you could add four of TheKid's S-hinges made from Extreme Tape.
Interesting take on the use of nylon hinges. Keeps you from having to cut slots.
I'm a little worried about the security of the system, though. I really wish I could say I wasn't, but I am...
When a hinge, be it the CA type or the nylon pin hinges, is dug into a slot, the only force that can be applied to it to rip it free is a direct pull front to back. Any up and down force is restricted by the walls of the slot, and the pulling force is acting on the glue joint's shearing axis, which is very strong, especially when reinforced with toothpicks or other pins.
With the hinge installed only on the surface, it's allowed to be pulled on in the front to back direction, as well as the up and down direction. The joint doesn't have as much strength when the force is applied in the axis perpendicular to the glue line.
It's good that you took the step of installing the toothpicks and screws. It may be enough to be secure. I would always be looking at those elevons with a distrusting, sideways glance, though.
If you desire to add security without tearing apart the hinges, you could add four of TheKid's S-hinges made from Extreme Tape.
09-28-2010, 10:48 PM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Falun, AB, CANADA
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Well the peices to my Stryker are falling into place,my custom mount is on its way fuse and cf are at the LHS awaiting for me to pick the goods up.Ive checked and asked questions about different motors,brands and sizes.I will be experimenting with different size cells from 4s to 7-8s with different props to try and make it up to the speeds of some of the legendary Stryker builders on these threads(without their help I wouldnt be on my way there)I am going to go with a custom mega 16/40/1.5sce mega the order will be sent out in a couple of days but I will more than likely have to wait a few weeks for it,does anybody have anything they would like to share about using this mill?
Greg.
Greg.
09-28-2010, 11:11 PM
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Roanoke, TX
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Rim,
Good.... GOOD....!
Oh, you are about to have some fun, sir!
I have the 16/40/1.5SCE myself. Going into a different application, but hopes are very, very high.
I just got my pair of 3S 45-90C batteries in the mail today, and once I do the painfully non-flying break-in, I'll run some tests on that motor and will share whatever data is useful with you. I can run 3S and 6S tests. If we're lucky, maybe Gryphon can help interpolate some prop figures for the voltages in between that you may be using.
Anthing to share about using what mill?
Good.... GOOD....!
Oh, you are about to have some fun, sir!
I have the 16/40/1.5SCE myself. Going into a different application, but hopes are very, very high.
I just got my pair of 3S 45-90C batteries in the mail today, and once I do the painfully non-flying break-in, I'll run some tests on that motor and will share whatever data is useful with you. I can run 3S and 6S tests. If we're lucky, maybe Gryphon can help interpolate some prop figures for the voltages in between that you may be using.
Anthing to share about using what mill?
09-29-2010, 03:33 AM
#49
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somewhere,
NY
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
ORIGINAL: Rimripper
I will be experimenting with different size cells from 4s to 7-8s with different props to try and make it up to the speeds of some of the legendary Stryker builders on these threads(without their help I wouldnt be on my way there)I am going to go with a custom mega 16/40/1.5sce mega
Greg.
I will be experimenting with different size cells from 4s to 7-8s with different props to try and make it up to the speeds of some of the legendary Stryker builders on these threads(without their help I wouldnt be on my way there)I am going to go with a custom mega 16/40/1.5sce mega
Greg.
Please post up any results and setup information you get.
09-29-2010, 07:02 AM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Falun, AB, CANADA
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: F27 Stryker Part 9: Crazy DARK SIDE - Beginners to Dark Extremes
Gryphon was and you mopar pointed me in the direction of the motor,The motor I will be using though I am ordering,so I will have to wait a few weeks to get it here.When I said Mill I was refering to the motor 16/40/1.5SCE.Murdoc,it would be great if you would share some of your info once you get some testing done.
Greg
Greg