Viper mod's
02-01-2014, 05:34 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Viper mod's
Hi
I have brought a Viper from Towers to try to prove that a woody is still ok in sport Quickie here in New Zealand.
I have a few questions regarding mod's on the the Viper, as follows:
1) Will beef up the firewall and glue on the tank bay top.
2) Have replaced the wing bolts with 1/4 20 nylon.
3) Torque rods are 2.8mm dia, have they been upgraded?
4) Will strengthen the tail area, I guess this is still needed.
5) Do the wheels still need replacing. What is/was wrong with them?
6) What's with the 10mm toe in on the undercarriage.
7) Fitting bubble less tank.
8) Anything I have missed?
Cheers
Geoff
I have brought a Viper from Towers to try to prove that a woody is still ok in sport Quickie here in New Zealand.
I have a few questions regarding mod's on the the Viper, as follows:
1) Will beef up the firewall and glue on the tank bay top.
2) Have replaced the wing bolts with 1/4 20 nylon.
3) Torque rods are 2.8mm dia, have they been upgraded?
4) Will strengthen the tail area, I guess this is still needed.
5) Do the wheels still need replacing. What is/was wrong with them?
6) What's with the 10mm toe in on the undercarriage.
7) Fitting bubble less tank.
8) Anything I have missed?
Cheers
Geoff
02-01-2014, 08:22 PM
#2
Check your incidence. Can't keep the tires on, you'll loose one and possibly rip out the gear block. Reinforce the gear block with epoxy as well as the firewall. Toe in keeps it running straight. I use the Torque rods with no issues. Run a servo from the back, or from under the wing for the throttle. Dub Jett's bubble-less 4oz tank works great right on the CG. I use light ply to replace the balsa hatch, pin it with bamboo shish-kabob or tooth pics. The stiffer the better. I just use fiberglass cloth and CA to strengthen the tail on the fuselage sides at the leading and trailing edge, other wise it can break off at those points. Should be good to go, have fun!!!!
02-02-2014, 11:52 AM
#3
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Upplands Vasby, SWEDEN
Posts: 7,816
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Hi!
The most important thing is to beef up the fuselage just in front of the stabilizer.
That means removing the balsa covering on top and bottom and put in som reinforcement, either 0,4mm ply or some 3mm balsa sheeting.
Also change the wheels as the original does´nt not work (brake easily).
The most important thing is to beef up the fuselage just in front of the stabilizer.
That means removing the balsa covering on top and bottom and put in som reinforcement, either 0,4mm ply or some 3mm balsa sheeting.
Also change the wheels as the original does´nt not work (brake easily).
Last edited by jaka; 02-02-2014 at 11:56 AM.
02-02-2014, 03:12 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Ed and Jan for the info.
One thing can you tell me with the wheels, is it the brass bush that is moulded into the wheel that comes out or does the plastic wheel it's self just break.
Cheers
Geoff
One thing can you tell me with the wheels, is it the brass bush that is moulded into the wheel that comes out or does the plastic wheel it's self just break.
Cheers
Geoff
02-02-2014, 03:21 PM
#5
The wheel itself unscrews itself, they don't break. I have tried CA, Thread locker. It does not seem to matter. They work them self loose. Its the one wheel primarily. When they come off, if your landing on grass especially the gear digs in and some things got to give. Darrol Cady sell's a couple different makes of wheels and they are all better alternatives, he sell a hub as well.
Ed 23G
Ed 23G
