Which Primer??
#1
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Which Primer??
I am in the process of finishing a landing gear, but Im not sure which direction to take for priming and painting.
Ive done a search for my answer with no difinitive yes or no. The entire gear is metal and I was told you cannot shoot butyrate onto metal it will peel.
Can I use a rattle can primer such as Krylon or Rustoleum and finish with a Butyrate Topcoat for fuel proofing? Or do I have to use a Butyrate primer.
I am using Brodak paints for color finish, so i hate to have to try and match another brand color to it.
Thanks much!
Ive done a search for my answer with no difinitive yes or no. The entire gear is metal and I was told you cannot shoot butyrate onto metal it will peel.
Can I use a rattle can primer such as Krylon or Rustoleum and finish with a Butyrate Topcoat for fuel proofing? Or do I have to use a Butyrate primer.
I am using Brodak paints for color finish, so i hate to have to try and match another brand color to it.
Thanks much!
#3
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You'll need something that the solvent won't attack, which rules out most enamels. I would expect butyrate to stick pretty well though if you scuff it well with a 400 grit or so.
#4
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Any time I paint metal I bake the paint if I can. And by bake I mean put it in the over as soon as I'm done spraying while the paint is still wet.
I did that on an aluminum roll cage for a buggy painted with Rustoleum and no matter how many times I flipped the buggy on asphalt the paint stayed good.
It's been a long time since I've done it though and can't remember temperatures or times but I would guess 200 to 250 for 30 minutes to an hour. No primer was used.
I don't know what's going on besides the paint being harder. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the heat expands the metal and opens "pores" that allow the paint to grip better. Have no idea if that's happening though.
I did that on an aluminum roll cage for a buggy painted with Rustoleum and no matter how many times I flipped the buggy on asphalt the paint stayed good.
It's been a long time since I've done it though and can't remember temperatures or times but I would guess 200 to 250 for 30 minutes to an hour. No primer was used.
I don't know what's going on besides the paint being harder. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the heat expands the metal and opens "pores" that allow the paint to grip better. Have no idea if that's happening though.
#5
To do aluminum properly it should be chromated. That is basically a cleaning, and etch, deoxidizer, and a chromate finish. It will stop the black smudge stuff on your fingers. Since it usually isn't available, Maybe a vinegar etch, or as had been said an etching primer that is compatible with the paint..