bradyc

i have one and it is very tough great engine many race features for the price... extreemly good price for what you get!

Dokioto

Great engine??

I hope you aren't talking about the stocker...

IrishNitro

Thanks for the advise , got the engine going and broken in slowly so waiting for tomorrow to let it rip . I had the switch for the servo on the throttle the wrong way round so it was reving really hard when i started .....all good now,

wminmi

My Feedback: (26)

still waiting on the weather to break my engine in (axial 28) as it seems everytime I have a "decent" weekend coming up we get an ice storm or boatloads of snow [&o]

Dokioto

HAHA, I had the same proublem last year wminmi..

wminmi

My Feedback: (26)

hey, that ain't funny.....LOL

Seriously though, bought the engine and got it installed that evening, woke up the next day and have had either snow or ice with below zero temps since [&o]

Wasn't it you that had the same problem, just too damn cold outside?

bradyc

oh no i got a O.S. Engines 21VZ-B(P) V-Spec i forgot to add that but thats all i have on it its an extreemly good engine but it comes with a hefty price tag. worth it tho.

Dokioto

Yup, just about this time last year... Cold this year to but I don't need to break anything in

vtec.

i just got this buggy for free. i thinkits the ofna lx comp? i have some cheap "axis" shocks on it. motor has a wack "homemade" port job. has a.26 motor. purple head. and wack wheels. no body. and i need like some tuning done. best place for partts is ebay right/>

Dokioto

I would check towerhobbies.com and nitrohouse.com for sure.

www.towerhobbies.com
www.nitrohouse.com

drbelleville

I know this is a "Re-Post" but for those looking to fit better / lighter shock towers you can use the PCR Ofna Items, yet you have to drill out the upper arm mount if you are running the new LX One C-Hub platform, as the hinge pins are thicker for the new buggy, and Ofna has not yet made the change to the towers, otherwise they bolt up perfect, front and rear. You can also use Xtremes Carbon Fiber units, Either way there are a few options to run, and also once more Integy is working on some stuff as well. The PCR has changed to stand for Pro Comp Research, as Paul Coleman is with Axial.


Integy: http://www.integy.com/cgi-bin/webc.c...ml?p_catid=133

Xtreme: http://www.xtremercracing.com/ULTR_LX_6303.cfm

Ofna: http://www.ofna.com/teampcr/pcr-ultra.htm

Hope this helps out a bit

Dokioto

Thanks...
Good to know what PCR stand for

drbelleville

So I was wondering has any one messed around with fitting other diffs from other vehicles by chance? My son is getting the hang of running the buggy, yet he manages to deform/destroy the rear bevel gear (Ofna # 30120). I was wondering if any of the ofna diffs would fit with minor mods, I am looking to fit a helical Gear set to relieve some of the drive train strain. Also anyone try fitting CVD's from other 1:8 buggies by chance, I know the Universals from my MP777 Sp2 do not fit, center front or rear.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

drbelleville

I did find a better gear Ofna has a steel version, its part # 31010 and tower carries it

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZD2&P=7

This should help with everyone who is running a bigger power plant

Dokioto

I have no idea... I haven't had a problem with my drive-train.

motionmachine

Other than HDRG 31010, there are no other alternative RPG's nor compatable diff assemblies for the Ultra's that Im aware of..
Aside from the stock RG being produced from rather soft (non hardened) pot metal, the biggest issue with the stock RG (30120) can most often be contributed to sloppy lash. Some folks contribute the shreaded RG's to the super sized (.26+ CI) motors, not true. Even with eco .21's, the end results were the same.
During hard braking, heavy accelleration, power landings and what nots, the crown of the RG will start to round off and eventually begin to jump across the PG, leading to the eventual stripping and/or breaking off teeth ie failure of the stock RG. Rarely does the hardened PG fail, in fact Ive never had one fail in nearly 10 years of running Ultra's.
The factory "lash" may be within the manufacturers acceptable tolerance range, however its typically far from optimal. Often is the case, to much contact at the crowns only and not enough contact down at the shoulders which is its strongest point of any gear.
All manufacturing has an acceptable tolerance range ie "within specs", RC manufacturers are no different and tend to err to the sloppy side, or the side thats most easily and/or less costly to compensate for.
In this case, they "could" shim excessively sloppy R&P lash, but if manufactured the least bit to tight, would require additional processes and/or machining read cost more to produce. I quoted "could" because they dont, why? I liken it to the "built in repeat customer" philosofy embraced by so so many manufacturers today, not just RC.
They most often outsource much of the manufacturing to the lowest bidder and/or utilize slave labor to assemble most entry level/LOW BUDGET RC's and as to be expected, overall quality suffers.
Thats not to imply the LX-1 or any other Ultra based vehicles are not a good product, but they should be given (but rarely are) a quality rebuild, to include checking and or correcting critical tolerances to include shimming the RPG's for optimal lash BEFORE ever fueling up and hitting the local track or ones own back yard...
IMO, much of the cost of the hi end RC's isn't because they use superior materials (plastics or metals) or manufacturing process's, rather they have much tighter QA standards. Enough chit chat, lets address how to fix it.....

You need to shim the pinion gears, both front and rear, for "optimal contact" much the same way an automobile is done. Using a light coat of grease and inspecting the contact patch. Before you begin the process, ensure both (inner and outter) PG bearings are in good working order and are FULLY AND COMPLETELY SEATED within the diff housing.
Place shim(s) between the PG head and inner bearing as needed to move the PG deeper onto the shoulder of the ring gear. How much varies, but avoid over doing it. To many shims (engagement) is just as bad as none at all. Even with the HD Steel Bevel Gear 31010, I still recommend you check and set the lash.
Note: When ever you replace a diff housing, RG, PG, or pinion bearing(s) for what ever reason, its a good idea to recheck and/or reset R&P lash. Once the lash is set, typically it doesn't need further/future adjustments.
When your done setting the lash and go to reinstall the cap joint (drive cup), remove the diff case/ring gear from the diff housing and squeeze the cap joint (drive cup) and PG tightly against the bearings with one hand, as to eliminate any for/aft movement of the pinion gear once reassembled, while tightening the grub screw in the cap joint with the other hand. I refer to that PG shifting condition as pinion humpin, not good.
Before I swapped to *traxxas grub screws w/ shaft, I found the flat concarved grub screws and red locktite work best for all drive cups.


*I highly recommend that mod to anyone with or has access to a decent drill press with vice and a couple quality carbide tipped drill bits.
Pro's- No longer need to use red locktite (requires heat to remove) nor have I had a single cap joint issue since.
Con- Requires shimming both sides to prevent any pinion humpin...

drbelleville

Thanks for the diff update. We have shimmed his diffs, yet over time, I want to say a gallons worth of "Racing/Driving" we take the car apart for service, and it always seems that the Ring Gear teeth are becoming "Bent"/deformed. We run with a little backlash, to prevent binding. We have also noticed that if you overtighten any of the diff housing screws that you can tweak the case and put the diff in a bind. So we are careful to assemble the diff housings (with diff inside) on the bench on tweak board, and ensure there is no flash moulding interfering with the proper assembly. I know it may seem like overkill, but he is learning, and unaware that there is an Losi 8ight with his name on it waiting for him.

We will try the hardend Ring Gear,

Thanks for the reply and help.

drbelleville

Here is a pic of his buggy right now with Losi Eight Shocks. It has been converted to 2wd right now. I told him of the days when all we had were 2wd 1:8 buggies from Kyosho, Yankee, Thunder Tiger, etc. Center Diff is locked with a Delrin Insert, and running 10000 weight Silicone in the Rear Diff. The front axles have been turned down.

Dokioto

I love basic paint jobs..
What engine are you running? I can't believe you are having these problems in the first place.. I have heard of two cases one of them yours.
This is the only R/C I have had zero problems with the drive train. Every other car has either, twisted cups or shredded diffs..
So I am glad I have not experienced any of this over the last year with my LX1 (thus I can't offer much help)


Losi 8ight! Lucky kid

drbelleville

Its a stock Force .21 with an OS #8 plug, JP1 Exhaust and 20% Monster Fuel. We have geared up one tooth to a 14 Tooth Clutch bell (with Kyosho Aluminum Shoes) and it seems to relieve some strain on the Ring gear by removing some bottom end torque. So we will wait and see once the new ring gear comes in. I am wondering if integy will release any as well, seeing that they made a replacement spur gear.

Glad you like the Paint Job, it was his first time.

I will post more pics later of the full chassis and mods.

bronx boy

Hey guys a quick question.IM LOOKING AT THE ULTRA LX 1 AND HYPER 7 BLACK 20.00 DIFFERENCE .Any thoughts just looking for a good sturdy buggy.MY raze just keeps on going would like another buggy to fool around with my godson . You seem to have a lot of diff trouble.Im not a abuser just like my blast up and down my block on weekends.Any help would be great.

drbelleville

Its not too much trouble, It takes about a gallons worth to notice anything, but otherwise its an awesome buggy, I have had it since 1998 and my son has been playing with it since a couple years ago. It has been upgraded a bit as his R/C budget allows. The gear problem is a rarity, as you may see. I race an MP 777 Sp2, yet as far as durability goes the Ofna Ultra Platform is here to stay, its a tank, and parts are priced well and easily accessible either via your Hobby shop or online (Tower Hobbies etc.)

Dokioto

Yea the new LX1 is great.. Comes with way better shocks then the previous Ultras..

1998? Have they changed the drive train up a little since then? I know the Ultra platform hasn't change a lot but I have noticed a lot less problems the newer they get.. Like the better shocks that are now included with the LX1.

The one thing I hate about the car is the stock radio gear.. Garbage in my opinion. I bought JR XS3 transmitter and better servos a while ago to fix the problem (great deal at A Main Hobbies $99). After about 2-3 quarts of fuel my engine had a heat attack. The connecting rod broke in half and tore up everything. Instead of rebuilding it I put in a Axial .28 and I haven't had any big problems since. One of the big reasons the engine died was because it wasn't fully broke in (takes about a gallon for this engine) and I was being hard on it.

Have had it for a while and would recommend it.

I don't quite remember but when I was about to buy this buggy I was also looking at the Hyper 7. (I think that was it) Chose the LX1 because the Hyper didn't have a sealed radio box like I wanted (easy as that)..

drbelleville

Here are a few pics. Its 2wd only right now. No front diff or driveshafts. As stated he is running Losi shocks front and rear. There are custom Delrin adapters to use the rear Losi shocks, as they are shorter than the stock ones. My son mounted the universals from the front in the rear now, the wheel hexes are from my old TT EB4 S-3 as are the front shock standoffs. Front axles are turned down MP777 Universals. The Radio-box size has been decreased (its not as tall as stock) the battery moved next to the throttle servo. Full PCR Shock Towers, Xtreme Carbon Radio-tray, Steering Support, and Diff Bracket. No on/off switch, plug and go with deans connectors. 10000 weight silicone diff oil in the rear, center diff has a delrin adapter to eliminate diff action and have direct power to the rear wheels only. Front brake added to the rear (dual Disc setup). Spacers under the front outside turnbuckles to minimize binding. Kyosho Flywheel and Aluminum Clutch shoes.

Still on his wish list;

Full CVD's, Delrin rear brace, carbon mud-guards, Ultra GTP Center Spool, Delrin rear Toe-Bracket (to increase straight-line stability), Crowd Pleaser Jammin 2.0 Body, Vantage Pipe, Titanium Turnbuckles.

*good thing he knows not that the 8ight is waiting*

hope this helps and inspires some fellow Ultra drivers to continue building and driving their machines.

drbelleville

Yeah its pretty much the same since they started as the Ultra GT: THe chassis is much better now, and the updates to the front brace, better suspension and shocks. Here are a few pics that I found just to show. Its come a long way since the 2mm shock towers and all-thread "turnbuckles". Keeps getting better.

you can find them on Ofnas site http://www.ofna.com/ugtlx.html