bearcave

cool vid YPC.

Lots happening now with development hey. Horses for courses but which horse which course, and hey buddy wanna rip carve or tube today... I see a Brosurfer quiver on the horizon.

On the other hand, old school arty style wise whatever, it's gunna be a while before i get a Jerry Lopez Lightning Bolt pintail lookin good going left fast as in out of the tube out of my mind..... lol

All good, just sayin...

YPC

Howzit BC -Development !!!..... its all 'interesting stuff'..at the end of the day - "You still have to surf it"....LOL

As for a Bro Quiver ....I have a few new ideas - BUT - have to say that I am very happy with the floatérs overall performance....

Would like to focus more on production methods and process's to speed things up as I am battling to keep up with orders ........

Hughengland

Wednesday - Had a great 4 brick session today at Sugar Beach on Maui's North Shore. Waves 4-5ft & lots of them!
Kimo fell in love with this cute windsurfer girl from Chile who says she will buy an MJ CD so she can make one too.
They have incredible waves in Chile!

Hughengland

What happened to "rc world surf site?

YPC

Howzit Hugh ...always good to hear you are having a great few sessions .....the lovely ladies on the beach enjoying it with us is th e'cherry on top !.......Lisa-Marie reckons Bro is a chick magnet ....its always amused me how the ladies respond to rc Surfing so much more than the guys....must be the old 'ego thing'....

Gloss Coat !

A final 600 grit fine sand - drip skirt applied - acetone wipe - tubes blocked up - ready for resin coat.



Deck Gloss Coat applied - once cured to be sanded and polished



I flow the resin richly around the various brass tubes to add strength and good
seal around each tube.

.

The resin flow coat ( gloss) brings out the brilliance of the colour !

bearcave

Surprises me too how surfergirls are drawn to the little surf board creatures, man if i had one of these 30yr ago.....
Incredible waves in Chile maybe but somehow think her camera and hotness blurred hugh's texting... again

btw, last i heard from kite was he was havin problems with the site... hoping to have it fixed soon... gave this as a way to hook in but haven't been there yet

http://rcsurfingthe619.freeforums.org/

YPC

I'm not having any hassles getting into rc Surf World ......

YPC

Hull fine sanded - rails drip taped - acetone wiped..



check for level in length and width ...'important



Liberal coat of flow resin ...especially around the
prortuding brass tubes for strength and seal.






Some fine sanding and polishing for an authentic glass over foam finish........

YPC

Goes to show even a DICK can surf well !....LOL

http://vimeo.com/87064536

YPC

INTEGRITY ! .....this process needs to be done 'absolutely correct' ......OR......you could end up losing your board !...

Setting/Bonding the threaded Hatch Cover Studs in place requires absolute
procedure to insure accuracy and INTEGRITY so as to ensure a 100 %
lasting seal 'at all time 'in all conditions....

Insure that the hatch cover is a good fit within the deflection rim rebate.



Mark out the hatch cover holes and drill accurately. Place tape on the area's
where the holes are to be drilled to ensure a clean surface on the flange area
when the epoxy is being applied.



I use a 'stopper'on my drill bit so as to ensure I don't drill through the board.
Then - to ensure that I drill through the foam to the glass on the hull side, I
lightly hand drill - feeling for the glass on the opposite side. This will allow for
added bonding strength between the stud and hull.



Clean out the drilled hole with some air. IMPORTANT - degrease the studs
in some acetone or sortes to remove all oils.



Place small portions of silicon tubing over the stud end - measuring its
required protrusion - keeping the thread area clean - spacing the hatch
during bonding.



CHECK - CHECK - CHECK ! - before applying any epoxy - ensure that all
components fit 100%. Make sure that the syringe fits snug into the stud
hole.



The main reason for using a syringe to inject the 'slow curing'epoxy into
each hole is to use the 'hydraulic' pressure to force the epoxy into the foam
cells surrounding the stud, making for a good anchor.

When placing the studs into the epoxy filled holes - dont just push it down
Rotate the stud as if you are turning it into a threaded hole. this draws the
stud in and it coats the entirety of the thread. Clean excess epoxy away.



Once all studs are placed and excess epoxy cleaned away - place the hatch
cover over the studs to ensure perfect alignment. Tape over the top of the
studs, holding them down, in place, whilst the epoxy cures.



Leave for epoxy curing duration.....

YPC

Howzit Hugh - whilst I was epoxying Bro's head with a final coat... I thought he was looking more like .......Mick Fanning ............

bearcave

YPC.

Last sesh with flexy some enthusiastic watchers were callin him a mini Mick too!

Haha had to laugh at the dickboard, and whlle speaking of dicks apart from me, some people say they are like I Phones.

Fun to play with in private but when in public, best kept within your pants... lol

YPC

When the epoxy has 'semi cured'its a good time to trim around the stud
and remove the tape from the flange to reveal a spotless / bonded stud.



I open the hatch holes from 4mm - 4.5mm's just to loosen the fit over the
studs, ever so slightly. I prefer the knurled nuts to the wing nuts, from
an ascetic point of view and to prevent over tightening, which can lead to
the studs bond being disrupted....



Hatch cover done !

YPC

Once the hatch is masked up with tape - mark
around the foot pads accurately - ensuring the
correct stance.



Cut out foot pad areas and grind surface area in preparation for epoxy



Coat both surfaces with epoxy ( slow cure) to ensure 100% contact.
Bring together - apply pressure, ensuring that the epoxy is well spread.
Clean away excess epoxy around the footpads - THEN - remove the Tape.



Left with a clean / neat bond - leave to cure - ensuring that it cannot move
from its set position whilst curing............

YPC

ronkytonk

Hey RC Surf nutz,

Have a gander at my NEW and improved list of parts,.

2848SL 3900kv Brushless Inrunner

HobbyKing 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC

3CH 2.4GHz Transmitter and Receiver

Zippy 5000Mah 3S 25C Lipo

BMS-705MG Low Profile High Torque Servo (Metal Gear) 6.0kg / .18sec / 34g
(for the Dude)

HobbyKing Boat ESC Programming Card


Hey Karl, I can't find your pics. I was looking for the one that you re-enforced the ankles on your dude...

Hughengland

Hugh's new carbon swallow tail with epoxy sanding coat curing before painting
Not really sure if I should even paint over the carbon.....?

YPC

Howzit Hugh - looks great !....

HIgh Gloss !.....once the final gloss layer has been applied - it requires a few days to harden really well
before final sanding and polishing. I start of with a dry 180 grit sand - keeping it dry so that all the small
imperfection stand out. Once they have been flatted out - I proceed with wet sanding from 400 grit to 1200
- stepping up in 200's. Every step needs to be done thoroughly or else the end result will be flawed.





After sanding - a patient hand polish with a good buffing paste, brings out the deep
shine - lustre - presenting an authentic glass over foam high gloss board...

ronkytonk

Saaaweet looking unit, I wouldn't paint it as he kinda has the supreme Silver Surfer look going on.

bearcave

Latest silver surfer lookin good.
Imo i would have to run that carbon surfer before painting, just to see how it carbonises.

YPC

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoS-KRtV7Ek

YPC

The rudder and rudder post take huge strain and risk of impact when in the water - so need to be a well installed / made unit.

The rudder post needs as much support as possible when being installed - so as to ensure it longevity / strength.

Besides using a high density / 80 kg / cube foam - and - adding extra layers of cloth around the rudder post area when glassing - there are further steps that can be added to add overall strength.

pool the epoxy at the base when initially installing the post.



pool the filler coat resin around the post.



Pool final resin coat around the post.



In the case of my rudder tube installation - I have : 4 layers of glass on the deck, around the post - 5 layers of cloth, on the hull, around the post - an epoxy rim top and bottom and two coats of pooled resin, around the tubes rim, top and bottom. In the pictures below - you can see the raised build up of cloth and resin around the brass rudder tube which gives it its overall strength.



Ones choice of rudder type is personal - I like the Bi - Fin for a few reasons - it assists with the lean of the board - does not effect the propelled thrust in a straight line.

The rudder unit needs to be robust and corrosion free - this unit is made of aluminium / stainless steel & brass.

I have found recently it better to only foil the left fin - which produces enough pull to counter the props rotational torque.






Owning a Z bending tool is handy to form the end
of the S/S push rod. The s/s grub screw secures
onto a flat face ensuring that the rudder does not
rotate or fall out.




The aluminium fins can be bent wider/ narrower to tweak ones riding style
and boards response.

Hughengland

DOm,

Thanks for your input on bi-fin & motor rotation - now I will have to make one (few) to test toooo
The Green Machine build is beautiful...

YPC

Thanks for your input on bi-fin & motor rotation - now I will have to make one (few) to test toooo
The Green Machine build is beautiful...[/QUOTE]

Thanks Hugh ! - I reckon I will be sorry to 'sea' this one go

The Alu Bi- Fin works well on all levels for myself - it is very robust - ESPECIALLY when surfing in Kelp infested water - which is often for myself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw8xstGCaG8

YPC

The drive shaft can be either of a flex type cable shaft or a solid stainless steel shaft - both have their pro's and con's - which can be debated till the cows come home...........mostly a matter of personal preference.

I settle for the solid S/S drive shaft unit for a number of good reasons and
have not had a days trouble, using this system over the years. That said,
it needs to be manufactured and installed 'properly' to deliver the required
lasting - efficient - performance.

Currently, I make 100% of the drive shaft assembly unit myself, as I find it difficult
to source quality / accurate or even, cost effective components.

The drive shaft is a solid 4 mm S/S rod turned down to a 1/8 th shaft with
a 3mm threaded end to receive the prop.. I make the dog drive from quality
aluminium as I found the commercial ones I used, to corrode very quickly..



Dog drive is secured to the shaft by grub screw on a flat.



The coupler / motor end of the drive shaft has a flat/groove - to ensure that
the shaft does not rotate within the coupler or slip out, should the grub screw
become lose. The coupler is made of aluminium - S/S grub screws - 1/8 th
motor end / 4mm shaft end.



The drive shaft runs within a serviceable brass bush on the prop end. It
simply slides into the stuffing tube, within the stainless steel drive shaft
housing. The flared end prevents the bush from travelling up the stuffing
tube.



Very important ! The motor end of the stuffing tube for a solid shaft installation should be left to
float ( not secured) so as to have a degree of movement to compensate for any small misalignment
or vibration.