New guy, need suggestions!
06-23-2015, 03:07 PM
#52
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Well i want 1 2s and 1 3s. The 3s just to show off to my dad and uncle because if it isnt a slash its junk they think lol the one with the mamba has a lowered rear end. In the video i believe he had a 3s and it drives very well
06-23-2015, 03:16 PM
#56
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I have done my "expert" analysis of the Rustlers below.
Rustler #1; Don't go for it. It has the old black transmission which means it may have plastic gears. Those can't stand a brushless system.
Rustler #2; I like it, but it has some Integy bling in places I don't like it. Plus, that price is a little high compared to the others.
Rustler #3; I like it the most. Its clean (7 runs at most?) and it has upgrades where I would put them myself.
Rustler #4; Looks good, a little scraped up though. All stock, so thats good. It also has an upgrade which will make Rob very happy, lol.
Rustler #1; Don't go for it. It has the old black transmission which means it may have plastic gears. Those can't stand a brushless system.
Rustler #2; I like it, but it has some Integy bling in places I don't like it. Plus, that price is a little high compared to the others.
Rustler #3; I like it the most. Its clean (7 runs at most?) and it has upgrades where I would put them myself.
Rustler #4; Looks good, a little scraped up though. All stock, so thats good. It also has an upgrade which will make Rob very happy, lol.
06-23-2015, 05:55 PM
#57
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Rustler 3 is the one i am going for. Rustler 4 i would like but i dont want to buy it and then kick myself in the butt when noone bids on rustler 3. Lol im sure there will be more if i get outbidded on rustler 3. Thanks though! Im like this forum a whole lot. Tons of information and everyone is so helpful. I appreciate it you guys!
06-23-2015, 09:43 PM
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Yea it was the esc. He has it set to 70/30. Im guessing that means 70% forward and 30% backwards? He said you either have to set the controller to that or program/calibrate the ESC to 50/50. Which 50/50 seems more logical to me. But idk what one would be better
06-24-2015, 07:50 AM
#63
slash essentially is just a longer rustler with big bumpers, and body lol
06-24-2015, 10:56 AM
#65
Speed, my friend, is not going to be your problem. Control will be. Especially with 3S. You may want to add some nose weight. And for God's sake, learn to drive the thing before you go sticking that 3S in there. Don't want you coming back here telling us how you destroyed your new RC on the first pack. 
I've never tried a radio that had the 50/50 or 70/30 option. I would think with the 70/30, you'd have finer control of the forward throttle, since its range is spread out over a wider arc. Reverse might feel like on/off. Dunno, would like to try sometime.
I've never tried a radio that had the 50/50 or 70/30 option. I would think with the 70/30, you'd have finer control of the forward throttle, since its range is spread out over a wider arc. Reverse might feel like on/off. Dunno, would like to try sometime.
06-24-2015, 11:19 AM
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I have been playing with my dads lately. At first I would just crank the gas and flip it and stuff. I have gotten used to slowly getting up to speed, and I watched him hit a curb top speed twice last sunday, definitely learned from his mistake to slow down earlier lol but that is why I want a 2s and 3s. The 2s to practice and get used to driving it. The 3s for those times i feel like flying around. My dad and uncle have 3s, so honestly I just want to show mine will be faster The controller with the LCD on top has those options, the 70/30 and the 50/50 but I would rather just program the ESC to 50/50. The only reason I was thinking to keep it 70/30 is because I am sure 99% of the time I will be going forward so I will only need reverse to back up and straighten out, not for driving much. I do plan on buying an RPM front bumper and a wheelie bar because I dont see it on the one I want.
06-24-2015, 11:44 AM
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I know collector1231 recommended this charger.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ischarger.html
And like I said I am trying to keep cost down. So is this a good charger?
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ischarger.html
And like I said I am trying to keep cost down. So is this a good charger?
06-24-2015, 11:55 AM
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http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...universal-plug
And would this be a good choice for a 2s lipo. I see venom got recommended a lot on the forums battery wise.
And would this be a good choice for a 2s lipo. I see venom got recommended a lot on the forums battery wise.
06-24-2015, 12:25 PM
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Yeah, for that price. I'd get 5000 MAh batteries, but something with a little higher C rating.
Battery; http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...-with-uni-plug
Battery; http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...-with-uni-plug
06-24-2015, 03:58 PM
#75
Only the Sidewinder 3 is "waterproof". Splashproof is more like it. Another of those electrical axioms: electricity and water don't mix. Or rather, they do and that's the problem. Avoid water.
A little more battery info:
mah rating: An indication of the capacity of the pack, read: how long will it run. The bigger the number, the longer the pack will run. Your average pack these days is 5000mah. I've seen 10,000mah 2S packs, but they are almost as thick as a 3S pack. 6000mah and 7200mah are becoming more common.
S-rating: Number of cells in a pack, i.e. 2S, 3S, 4S....6S
C-rating: An indication of the pack's ability to dump current (Amps) on demand. A higher C-rating means a given pack can deliver a higher current than a battery of the same make.. C-ratings are something of a marketing hype, in that, they tend to be somewhat inflated. AND, this C-rating is not to be confused with the other C-rating: the Charging rate. Most of the time, you will charge your packs at a 1C rate. Meaning that if you had a pack that was 3000mah, you would charge it at 3 Amps. If you had a 5000mah pack, you'd charge at 5 Amps. See?
A little more battery info:
mah rating: An indication of the capacity of the pack, read: how long will it run. The bigger the number, the longer the pack will run. Your average pack these days is 5000mah. I've seen 10,000mah 2S packs, but they are almost as thick as a 3S pack. 6000mah and 7200mah are becoming more common.
S-rating: Number of cells in a pack, i.e. 2S, 3S, 4S....6S
C-rating: An indication of the pack's ability to dump current (Amps) on demand. A higher C-rating means a given pack can deliver a higher current than a battery of the same make.. C-ratings are something of a marketing hype, in that, they tend to be somewhat inflated. AND, this C-rating is not to be confused with the other C-rating: the Charging rate. Most of the time, you will charge your packs at a 1C rate. Meaning that if you had a pack that was 3000mah, you would charge it at 3 Amps. If you had a 5000mah pack, you'd charge at 5 Amps. See?