skygreen67

My new gears came today but are they supposed to be half as thick as the spur?

skygreen67

My new gears came today but are they supposed to be half as thick as the spur?

Sorry i dont know why this posted twice

CptKlink

No thats not really good they should be as thick if not a tiny bit thicker then the spur gear. If the pinion gears are only 1/2 the thickness of the spur you are deffently looking at stripping those gears out.

skygreen67

Well poop... i think im rly stuck now then

zackS30

The pinion for my wraith is smaller than my spur and I haven't had problems. And my spur is plastic.

skygreen67

I guess thats what ill have to use then

CptKlink

Ya but his spur is steel and his pinions that he just got are aluminum I think he will have a problem stripping the pinion gears like he has already with a few brass ones he has had. Your spur is plastic dosen't create any where near as much ware as a steel one.

DieHarder

WHY DID HE GET ALUMINUM???

Steel on steel! That spur is going to eat that pinion... Can we get a pic of this setup that shows the thicknesses and such?

DieHarder

This is what you need:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Robinson-Rac...item2597059a49

It will take your pinion down a tooth, is made from hard steel alloy, is the correct thickness, and shouldn't strip. Brass and aluminum are some pretty soft metals, it's no surprise you burned through the brass. The aluminum will probably go even faster so have fun while it lasts...

skygreen67

I cant really get an easy pic of it but this is the brass pinion which is the same thickness as my spur

And they ebay auction i bought it from said they were silver/steel... it wasnt until i looked up the part number that i realized they werent... theyre not even the same colour that was shown

And ive gone back to using the plastic spur and just hope it will be enough at least till i know what size to get

CptKlink

@DieHarder I told him about Robinson Racing gears a few posts back and its the ones he pretty much needs to get if want to keep running that steel spur gear.

@Skygreen67 theres actually not a specific gear size you need. It all comes down to quite a few things that you need to kinda calculate to figer out what gear size works best for you. I will try to create a short list of what determines what gear size you need/want.

1- ESC power/AMP rating
2- Motor size and KV rating
3- How fast do you really want to go and still be able to control the truck.
4- Your Driving style.
5- Type of ground your going to be driving on most often be it pavement, dirt, or grass. if on grass the grass length is a factor as well.
6- Size and weight of your truck including battery and any other possible accessories that you have mounted on your truck.
7- Tire Size also factors in to your final gear ratio.
8- Conditions/weather you will be driving in most often. Like snow and mud make the truck work harder to get through it so in turn will heat up your motor and ESC more.
9- Average ambient Temperature you will be driving in.
10- Last and really the most important and really this one is the most important in figuring out what pinion gear size you can use is ESC and Motor Temperature.

Factoring in all those and monitoring your ESC and motor Temperature will determine what Pinion gear you could use. But like i said on the last point the only one thats really important is ESC and Motor Temp.

Another important thing is getting the gear mesh right. Most people use the paper method by putting a piece of normal notebook paper between the gears and squeezing them together and then tighten the motor down. Me personally I do it by feel. I squeez the pinion and spur together tight then ever so slightly move the pinion away from the Spur very slowly as soon as i feel the slightest movement between the pinion and spur gears I tighten the motor down. I'm still running the stock plastic spur that came with my ECX Ruckus but I have a Castle creations Sidewinder SCT ESC with a Neu-Castle 1410 3800KV motor with Robinson Racing steel Pinion gears and after all the bashing I have put my Ruckus through my Stock Spur gear still looks brand new. But also it probably helps that my truck has a slipper clutch.

skygreen67

I did ask here if the novak pinions were suitable and was told yes to get them... ill buy some of the robinson ones too... right now i have the plastic spur in with the 14t pinion and using an old 8.4v nimh battery and speed wise its at a nice good speed but without my receiver antenna im not able to take it for 5 minutes to check the temps

zackS30

U could get the flysky gt3b remote. The receivers r only 8$ if one goes out.

Its only like 50$ and I think nitrorcx has them maybe tower? I can't remember. My flysky has 4 receivers and I got a spektrum so I don't use mine anymore.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

I think you'd like the display on the GT3C model better. Much easier to read.

skygreen67

I think ill check them both out... btw are they solid controllers or do they feel cheaply made

So i just had my volcano out and since im using a 8.4 nimh battery and the 14t pinion (with a plastic spur) and it handles a lot better but i think i should still bring the speed down some but it kept cutting out because of the broken receiver so i wasnt really able to get a good feel for it... as much as i dont like to use it im going to put the receiver in from my rs10xt and use that transmitter

zackS30

Lol 4ws on a volcano!! Ftw!!

skygreen67

Its possible

DieHarder

@CptKlink yes, Robinson is the way to go. I mentioned the hardened steel pinions that they sell, but I see they don't come in the size he needs. However, the regulars are much better than any aluminum ones. I agree on setting gear mesh by feel and looks. I've used the paper trick a couple times and ruined a few spurs because of it. It's kind of a newbie trick that LHSs tell their customers to get them going. When you've stripped a few gears you start to know what a good mesh should look like, so I go by sight versus the random thickness of paper and pressure you apply.

The Fly Sky GT3C is a very nice radio after you mod the power switch wires. Lipo powered, simple display, comes in colors, 3chs, etc. However, the GT3B is a very nice radio after you put a lipo in it. I like the GT3B for it's awesome programmability, steering wheel, stance, and black color. But the GT3C is good too, just looks a little cheaper IMO. They do not feel cheap at all to me, but it's said that they break easily if dropped. I've dropped mine a couple times and it still works like the day it came out of the box.

You can get either radio system through HobbyPartz.com at these links:

Fly Sky GT3B: http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html

Fly Sky GT3C: http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-ct3c-3...lcd-green.html

Novak pinions are not good as I have recently found out. (Hope I didn't tell you they were...)

CptKlink

Thats something I have always wondered if you could use the battery from the Fly Sky FS-iT4 in the Fly Sky GT3C.

skygreen67

@dieharder what do you mean mod the power switch?

DieHarder

Look at the center of the steering wheel in this pic:



It says "Power" as it is the power button. The wires for the switch go into the controller from that button and pass through a passage in the steering wheel. Every time you turn the steering wheel, you are twisting the power button wires back and forth. Eventually the solder joints that hold the wires to the switch break and the power button doesn't work. You have to resolder the wires to the switch using longer wires to give more 'freedom' and less tension, use hot glue around the joints to support them, and possibly some shrink tube to keep things stiff and strong. Sort the reviews lowest first and you will see people talk of the issue within the first few reviews. That's partly why I didn't buy one. I figured I was saving money and a problem.

The GT3B has the power button on the back of the transmitter, a location that does not move, and keeps to solder joints from flexing.

skygreen67

And it has more options as well?

DieHarder

Yes. Two sets of different grips, a foam steering wheel pad, dual rate button easy access, white backlight instead of blue (not sure if that's much of a plus, more preference), is lighter because of the lipo, the trim font is larger on the screen, and the scroll switch is different.

skygreen67

Do know anything about a savage transmitter/receiver? http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/104058

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

For $60, it's not going to feel like a $400 MT-12. You might have to put a little glue on the wheel foam. But it does the job, has the features, and is priced so a retired bum like me can afford it. Oh, and the lipo pack makes the radio a lot lighter than holding eight AAs in my FS-GT2!

As for the power switch on the GT3C, I've heard that only certain colors had that issue, and if you could get a Silver one, you were good. I got a Silver one. Haven't had any problems. BTW, found it thru Amazon of all places!

The HPI transmitter/receivers sell for a few bucks more ($26) than a FS-GT2 ($20), and have comparable features. Which is to say, not many: throttle and steering trim, and a steering sensitivity aka "dual-rate" knob.