Evader: The How to make it bash-proof Thread
12-11-2014, 08:31 AM
#1
Evader: The How to make it bash-proof Thread
Okay. The Evader has been around for a looong time. It's a good entry-level hobby-grade RC Stadium Truck. And, this forum has been kind enough to let The Evader Coalition thread go on For Ever.
However, as fun as it is, TEC has become more than a bit over-stuffed with a lot more than just Evader stuff. There is a ton of good info buried in hundreds of pages of friendly banter between several of us Evader-heads. My idea here, is for us to try and distil the good ideas and fixes from all the fine people who've contributed to TEC and put them here in this thread, for easier reference. DieHarder and RustyUS, what do you guys think?
However, as fun as it is, TEC has become more than a bit over-stuffed with a lot more than just Evader stuff. There is a ton of good info buried in hundreds of pages of friendly banter between several of us Evader-heads. My idea here, is for us to try and distil the good ideas and fixes from all the fine people who've contributed to TEC and put them here in this thread, for easier reference. DieHarder and RustyUS, what do you guys think?
12-12-2014, 02:13 PM
#2
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Good idea! We need a game plan though. In order to cover the entire Evader, I think we should start at the front bumper and move all the way back to the wheelie bar giving details on how to bash-proof for every single part. I think cumquat has some good info on this stuff as well.
I nominate Rusty to start us off a good write up on front bumpers since he has had the most experience with them and we can vote on the best bumper for the Evader. Then using this technique, we can move back to the front shock tower, front A-arms, hinge pins, knuckles, etc. One part at a time.
This will make what we could call an "Evader Bash-proofing Manual". It might be many pages long, but it will be an accurate write-up. We'll have page numbers to find info on certain parts and everything!
We just have to make sure to keep most (if not, all) extra talk out of our posts here. It's strictly info on the subject part we are writing about only.
Your up Rusty!
I nominate Rusty to start us off a good write up on front bumpers since he has had the most experience with them and we can vote on the best bumper for the Evader. Then using this technique, we can move back to the front shock tower, front A-arms, hinge pins, knuckles, etc. One part at a time.
This will make what we could call an "Evader Bash-proofing Manual". It might be many pages long, but it will be an accurate write-up. We'll have page numbers to find info on certain parts and everything!
We just have to make sure to keep most (if not, all) extra talk out of our posts here. It's strictly info on the subject part we are writing about only.
Your up Rusty!
Last edited by DieHarder; 12-12-2014 at 02:15 PM.
12-12-2014, 04:39 PM
#3
Eh, yeah, more or less. Dunno if we need to be that detailed about it. I just thought between the three of us, and any other 'Vader-ite, we could just list in a few posts, a summary of what we've individually learned about the Evader, what things to keep an eye on, what things to upgrade when going brushless, etc. Like I said, all in one easy-to-digest page of half a dozen or so posts.
12-13-2014, 04:37 AM
#4
T-Bone Racing Basher Bumper
The best bumper out there comes from TBR, T-Bone Racing. The "Basher" model is my favorite (the only one I ever purchased
) for my Evader ST Pro (also fits the Evader ST, ST Pro, EXT2, Nitro Evader.) Many others have come to know and love TBR bumpers over the years .
TBR started their bumper business with the Duratrax Evader being their first production bumper way back when, and they have grown from there.
I did manage to break the first front bumper (curb wouldn't get out of the way) and TBR came through with the lifetime warranty replacement! TBR has a combo (front/rear) that I got for my ST Pro and protects the motor very well (in my case... doing cartwheels) but the rear is not necessary nor does it fit the Brushless EXT model.
I don't know about being the most experienced, I just have used the Evader ST Pro for a very long time (since 2004ish). Since the ST is so durable now, after years of trial and error with upgraged parts, it'll be my fist RC not to get resold at a yard sale or put up for auction on eBay.
) for my Evader ST Pro (also fits the Evader ST, ST Pro, EXT2, Nitro Evader.) Many others have come to know and love TBR bumpers over the years . TBR started their bumper business with the Duratrax Evader being their first production bumper way back when, and they have grown from there.
I did manage to break the first front bumper (curb wouldn't get out of the way) and TBR came through with the lifetime warranty replacement! TBR has a combo (front/rear) that I got for my ST Pro and protects the motor very well (in my case... doing cartwheels) but the rear is not necessary nor does it fit the Brushless EXT model.
I don't know about being the most experienced, I just have used the Evader ST Pro for a very long time (since 2004ish). Since the ST is so durable now, after years of trial and error with upgraged parts, it'll be my fist RC not to get resold at a yard sale or put up for auction on eBay.
Last edited by RustyUs; 12-13-2014 at 02:47 PM.
12-13-2014, 08:57 AM
#5
I'll second that recommendation for the TBR bumper set. It's the first thing you should buy for your Evader. The second thing would be this hinge pin brace, it's only $3. It'll keep you from ripping out your front A-arms and front bulkhead if you clip a tree or post. The third thing would be a new servo, the stock one doesn't last long. Just about any servo with metal gears will work fine. I've used cheap $15 servos from HobbyPartz.com and they've lasted years.
The weakest point on the Evader is the front "hinge" that connects the front bulkhead to the front of the chassis. If you hit something hard, chances are that's where it's gonna break. About the only thing you can do about that, again, is the TBR bumper. The aluminum bulkhead has been discontinued.
That's about all you need if your Evader is staying stock, that is, brushed motor, NiMh batteries.
If you're going brushless, like most folks, there are a few more things you'll need to do to so it'll stand up to the power. And speaking of power, the Evader is a light car, only 3.5lbs, so you don't need to put a 120Amp system with a 550-sized motor in it. (There IS such a thing as too much, unless you're just doing speed runs) IMHO, the HobbyWing EZrun B2 Combo is the best fit for the Evader, in power and weight. This system will power your Evader to 40mph on 2S Lipo with enough torque to get you wheelies on asphalt and plenty of power in the dirt. I found, using an IR thermometer that changing the stock 20T pinion to 19T kept the motor temp in the "good" range. You don't want you motor to run too hot (160F+) or it'll damage magnets or windings. Even in the summer, my temps were well under 140F.
Going brushless, you'll want to replace the stock plastic-geared differential with the Brushless Model all-metal diff. You can get just the metal diff gear minus the planetary gears for about half the price of the assembled unit. My buddy has been running the stock plastic one for quite some time, but I guess my driving style had me stripping the diff gear. I like using TrakPower Gear Grease inside the diff and for the tranny gears. MUCH better than the black stuff.
IMPORTANT: when you buy the metal diff, you MUST dis-assemble it, clean out the screw holes, and apply BLUE Locktite to all eight screws, and let it dry thoroughly, like overnite. If those screws come loose, the internal gears loose mesh and will strip out in a hurry.
Behind the large bevel gears in the diff is the end of the drive cup, held in place by a metal pin that engages with the bevel gear. That pin will fail over time. Replace those pins with music wire by K&S Precision Metals stock #502, 0.047in (1.19mm) available at your hobby store or hardware store.
Similarly, the drive pins for the rear wheels are rolled spring pins, and they fail pretty quickly under brushless power. Stock #504 music wire 0.062in (1.57mm) will replace them. They don't fit tight like the spring pins, so you'll loose them before you break them. Music wire comes in 30in lengths in bundles of three for less than $4. So, lifetime supply.
If you can find them, the Aluminum Motor Plate and the Aluminum Tranny brace are good to get. The stock motor plate tended to get bent or warped in nasty crashes. The aluminum motor plate is thick and won't bend, and, it helps keep the motor cool, acting as a heatsink. (As of this writing, the Al motor plate is unavailable)
The stock tires really limit the power to the ground, and I found that I like Proline Gladiators, front and rear. Some guys have had good luck with the stock wheels, but DTX is not known for the quality of their wheels. RPM Slingshots and Talonz will work on the Evader.
The only other thing we did to protect our Evaders was to make crash barriers for all the trees we were racing around. This involves buying a few of those blue foam sleeping pads used for camping, and cutting them into 8-10in wide strips, long enough wrap around the base of the tree. Behind this we'd place several 10-12" orange safety cones available at most sporting goods stores. The cones direct impact energy UP, dissipating it safely.
The only thing sort of odd about the Evader has to do with the tranny case and rear chassis plate. For about a year, DTX sold a Brushless Evader with a re-designed slipper clutch and top gear (and is when, halleluja!, we got the all metal diff). The BL-spec Top Gear, Slipper Assembly, Tranny Case, and Rear Chassis Plate are not interchangeable parts . You have to get all one, or all the other.
That is about all I've learned about, and done to, my Evaders. The Evader is made to be an inexpensive way to get people into the RC hobby with real hobby-grade quality. The Stress-Tech guaranty replaces any part you break in the first year, no one else to my knowledge does that. Is it the BEST RC car out there? No, there are better designs. But you're not going to find a better newby car for the $169 asking price.
The weakest point on the Evader is the front "hinge" that connects the front bulkhead to the front of the chassis. If you hit something hard, chances are that's where it's gonna break. About the only thing you can do about that, again, is the TBR bumper. The aluminum bulkhead has been discontinued.
That's about all you need if your Evader is staying stock, that is, brushed motor, NiMh batteries.
If you're going brushless, like most folks, there are a few more things you'll need to do to so it'll stand up to the power. And speaking of power, the Evader is a light car, only 3.5lbs, so you don't need to put a 120Amp system with a 550-sized motor in it. (There IS such a thing as too much, unless you're just doing speed runs) IMHO, the HobbyWing EZrun B2 Combo is the best fit for the Evader, in power and weight. This system will power your Evader to 40mph on 2S Lipo with enough torque to get you wheelies on asphalt and plenty of power in the dirt. I found, using an IR thermometer that changing the stock 20T pinion to 19T kept the motor temp in the "good" range. You don't want you motor to run too hot (160F+) or it'll damage magnets or windings. Even in the summer, my temps were well under 140F.
Going brushless, you'll want to replace the stock plastic-geared differential with the Brushless Model all-metal diff. You can get just the metal diff gear minus the planetary gears for about half the price of the assembled unit. My buddy has been running the stock plastic one for quite some time, but I guess my driving style had me stripping the diff gear. I like using TrakPower Gear Grease inside the diff and for the tranny gears. MUCH better than the black stuff.
IMPORTANT: when you buy the metal diff, you MUST dis-assemble it, clean out the screw holes, and apply BLUE Locktite to all eight screws, and let it dry thoroughly, like overnite. If those screws come loose, the internal gears loose mesh and will strip out in a hurry.
Behind the large bevel gears in the diff is the end of the drive cup, held in place by a metal pin that engages with the bevel gear. That pin will fail over time. Replace those pins with music wire by K&S Precision Metals stock #502, 0.047in (1.19mm) available at your hobby store or hardware store.
Similarly, the drive pins for the rear wheels are rolled spring pins, and they fail pretty quickly under brushless power. Stock #504 music wire 0.062in (1.57mm) will replace them. They don't fit tight like the spring pins, so you'll loose them before you break them. Music wire comes in 30in lengths in bundles of three for less than $4. So, lifetime supply.
If you can find them, the Aluminum Motor Plate and the Aluminum Tranny brace are good to get. The stock motor plate tended to get bent or warped in nasty crashes. The aluminum motor plate is thick and won't bend, and, it helps keep the motor cool, acting as a heatsink. (As of this writing, the Al motor plate is unavailable)
The stock tires really limit the power to the ground, and I found that I like Proline Gladiators, front and rear. Some guys have had good luck with the stock wheels, but DTX is not known for the quality of their wheels. RPM Slingshots and Talonz will work on the Evader.
The only other thing we did to protect our Evaders was to make crash barriers for all the trees we were racing around. This involves buying a few of those blue foam sleeping pads used for camping, and cutting them into 8-10in wide strips, long enough wrap around the base of the tree. Behind this we'd place several 10-12" orange safety cones available at most sporting goods stores. The cones direct impact energy UP, dissipating it safely.
The only thing sort of odd about the Evader has to do with the tranny case and rear chassis plate. For about a year, DTX sold a Brushless Evader with a re-designed slipper clutch and top gear (and is when, halleluja!, we got the all metal diff). The BL-spec Top Gear, Slipper Assembly, Tranny Case, and Rear Chassis Plate are not interchangeable parts . You have to get all one, or all the other.
That is about all I've learned about, and done to, my Evaders. The Evader is made to be an inexpensive way to get people into the RC hobby with real hobby-grade quality. The Stress-Tech guaranty replaces any part you break in the first year, no one else to my knowledge does that. Is it the BEST RC car out there? No, there are better designs. But you're not going to find a better newby car for the $169 asking price.
And that $169 is for a Ready-To-Run.
12-16-2014, 04:51 PM
#9
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Graphite parts. From what I've heard/had, graphite parts are strong in the form of stiffness but are quite brittle. I can't recommend any of the graphite parts but then again, but I haven't had very many of them. Anybody have some input on that?
I'm not a fan of how Duratrax use machine screws in plastic. Not sure what they were thinking there. For me, I have lots of stripped screw holes on my Evader. I've fixed most of them by either putting in longer screws to grab new plastic, putting a locknut on the backside where I can, pouring glue down the hole and drilling the hole out to the right spec to give the screw new material to put threads in, or using Teflon tape on the screw. Those are just a couple of many ways to fix the issue and I'm sure many other models have the same problem. I think if Duratrax used sheet metal screws, wood screws, or screws made for plastic they could solve the problem.
Shocks: They leak all over! For me anyway. lol It's been suggested to use titanium coated shock shafts and "Green Slime" on the o-ring seals. Here is the shock seal kit necessary for rebuilding the shocks: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMK4&P=7 and the titanium shafts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCXP2&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBDK8&P=7
I myself use the EXT2 wheels from Duratrax and have no trouble. I've heard good and bad about the wheels. The only time I ruined one was when my wheel nut came loose because I hadn't replaced it in awhile. That's another thing! Replace your 4mm wheel nuts every other time you take the wheels off. The nylon locking part wears out really fast and loses it's grip, letting the nut come loose. Getting flanged nuts with serrated teeth on the flange helps a lot too. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSGZ2&P=ML
If you run in a good amount of water, remember to shoot your front wheel bearings, rear hub bearings, and axle stubs/outdrives with WD-40 or CRC to keep them from rusting and binding. It definitely increases the life of the bearings and outdrive springs. I would also recommend an aluminum steering horn to go on the servo. They are fairly cheap and don't strip as easily when the steering takes a beating from a crash. Depending on the brand of servo you have, there are 23T, 24T, and 25T horns. The servo saver is supposed to save this horn and servo from stripping but because I run my servo saver near locked, I've had issues with that. The Evader EXT2.4 and I believe all Evaders come with a servo that has plastic gears. When you strip the gears in the servo and need a new servo, this is a strong, reliable option that is good speed and strength at a reasonable price: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ89&P=ML
Something I did recently is I changed my spur and pinion gears to a different pitch. I went from 48P to the much strong 32P. This can be accomplished with this spur gear: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEWN9&P=7 and this pinion: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEX00&P=7 (Side Note - I bought the 60T spur and modded my gear cover to fit. I recently found this 56T that is smaller and won't require a gear cover mod. That makes this mod a very good one, easy to install, and comes in at less $8. I really recommend it now. It's so much stronger!)
Aluminum Parts: Other than the few that Rob listed, do not buy any of the aluminum shock towers or A-arms as they are over priced and not worth the $$. Plastic is much cheaper and in most cases stronger because it flexes more upon impact. Aluminum rear hubs and front knuckles however are ok if you absolutely need them or are trying to make a shelf queen and have the money. Anything Integy brand is taking a risk, so buy Duratrax. If you're looking at an Integy product that you really want (Some of their stuff is very tempting!), check up on the reviews and think good and hard about it before getting it. Integy used to be ok but as I've been finding out, most of their stuff is molded alloy which makes the metal very porous. Their bad designs in key locations aids the failure of the product is well. Some of their stuff is machined CNC and will say so. That stuff usually isn't too bad.
If your radio dies at some point or you want to upgrade to something with a digital screen, the best radio I've owned so far has been the FlySky GT3B. http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html Awesome settings, programming, range, screen, etc. The part I don't like is the 8AA batteries it takes every other month. To get around that you can either do the famous lipo battery mod or buy the GT3C instead that comes with a lipo. http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-ct3c-3...lcd-green.html It's $15 more but I've heard it's worth it.
Like EGBasher said, 35W oil is pretty much the perfect stuff for the Evader shocks: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX3310&P=ML
If you want a wheelie bar, then you will have to have either an EXT, EXT2, or Brushless model to avoid a long hard road of getting one (like I went down). This is not for the ST model. Get this rear chassis plate to replace the one you have: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=7 and buy this wheelie bar kit that will bolt on to that plate: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7
If you have an ST with the stock ST gearbox, the mounting location for the gearbox on this plate will not be big enough for the ST gearbox. So you have to get an EXT gearbox and with that you need a EXT2/Brushless differential (Rob recommended the metal diff, that will work). With that, you need EXT dogbones and axles, along with 4mm locknuts. You will also need EXT outdrive springs. With all that and the Brushless rear chassis plate and wheelie bar kit, the ST can have a wheelie bar and metal differential. Also if you have an ST, get the Metal idler gear and make a full metal gearbox. No mods required! It pops right in! http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAEJL&P=7
Tires: Pro-line Badlands, Pro-line Gladiators, Pro-line Dirt Hawgs II, and Panther Sand Paws are tires that work very well on the Evader. Be sure to have 32P pinion/spur if you run the Badlands though. Gladiators only work well on the back set of tires. Same with the Sand Paws.
For Camber and steering adjustments or any adjustments, followed the manual. The manual is very helpful with it's "exploded view" for every part of the truck. Find the EXT2.4 in this list of manuals: http://www.duratrax.com/downloads/index.html If you have a discontinued Evader, find your model in this list of manuals: http://www.duratrax.com/downloads/discontinued.html The discontinued models include the ST, DT, BX, EXB, EXT, EXT2, and the Brushless model.
Bodies: Most of the Evader Bodies are interchangeable. I'm pretty sure the EXB and the BX are the only models that have bodies specifically designed for them. All the rest use the same body posts and will work with any of the Evaders except the EXB and BX. The EXB and BX can be modded to use other Evader bodies and the same for other Evaders to use the EXB and BX bodies. The mod includes simply changing the front body posts.
That's about all I can think of for now.
I'm not a fan of how Duratrax use machine screws in plastic. Not sure what they were thinking there. For me, I have lots of stripped screw holes on my Evader. I've fixed most of them by either putting in longer screws to grab new plastic, putting a locknut on the backside where I can, pouring glue down the hole and drilling the hole out to the right spec to give the screw new material to put threads in, or using Teflon tape on the screw. Those are just a couple of many ways to fix the issue and I'm sure many other models have the same problem. I think if Duratrax used sheet metal screws, wood screws, or screws made for plastic they could solve the problem.
Shocks: They leak all over! For me anyway. lol It's been suggested to use titanium coated shock shafts and "Green Slime" on the o-ring seals. Here is the shock seal kit necessary for rebuilding the shocks: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMK4&P=7 and the titanium shafts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCXP2&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBDK8&P=7
I myself use the EXT2 wheels from Duratrax and have no trouble. I've heard good and bad about the wheels. The only time I ruined one was when my wheel nut came loose because I hadn't replaced it in awhile. That's another thing! Replace your 4mm wheel nuts every other time you take the wheels off. The nylon locking part wears out really fast and loses it's grip, letting the nut come loose. Getting flanged nuts with serrated teeth on the flange helps a lot too. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSGZ2&P=ML
If you run in a good amount of water, remember to shoot your front wheel bearings, rear hub bearings, and axle stubs/outdrives with WD-40 or CRC to keep them from rusting and binding. It definitely increases the life of the bearings and outdrive springs. I would also recommend an aluminum steering horn to go on the servo. They are fairly cheap and don't strip as easily when the steering takes a beating from a crash. Depending on the brand of servo you have, there are 23T, 24T, and 25T horns. The servo saver is supposed to save this horn and servo from stripping but because I run my servo saver near locked, I've had issues with that. The Evader EXT2.4 and I believe all Evaders come with a servo that has plastic gears. When you strip the gears in the servo and need a new servo, this is a strong, reliable option that is good speed and strength at a reasonable price: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ89&P=ML
Something I did recently is I changed my spur and pinion gears to a different pitch. I went from 48P to the much strong 32P. This can be accomplished with this spur gear: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEWN9&P=7 and this pinion: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEX00&P=7 (Side Note - I bought the 60T spur and modded my gear cover to fit. I recently found this 56T that is smaller and won't require a gear cover mod. That makes this mod a very good one, easy to install, and comes in at less $8. I really recommend it now. It's so much stronger!)
Aluminum Parts: Other than the few that Rob listed, do not buy any of the aluminum shock towers or A-arms as they are over priced and not worth the $$. Plastic is much cheaper and in most cases stronger because it flexes more upon impact. Aluminum rear hubs and front knuckles however are ok if you absolutely need them or are trying to make a shelf queen and have the money. Anything Integy brand is taking a risk, so buy Duratrax. If you're looking at an Integy product that you really want (Some of their stuff is very tempting!), check up on the reviews and think good and hard about it before getting it. Integy used to be ok but as I've been finding out, most of their stuff is molded alloy which makes the metal very porous. Their bad designs in key locations aids the failure of the product is well. Some of their stuff is machined CNC and will say so. That stuff usually isn't too bad.
If your radio dies at some point or you want to upgrade to something with a digital screen, the best radio I've owned so far has been the FlySky GT3B. http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html Awesome settings, programming, range, screen, etc. The part I don't like is the 8AA batteries it takes every other month. To get around that you can either do the famous lipo battery mod or buy the GT3C instead that comes with a lipo. http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-ct3c-3...lcd-green.html It's $15 more but I've heard it's worth it.
Like EGBasher said, 35W oil is pretty much the perfect stuff for the Evader shocks: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX3310&P=ML
If you want a wheelie bar, then you will have to have either an EXT, EXT2, or Brushless model to avoid a long hard road of getting one (like I went down). This is not for the ST model. Get this rear chassis plate to replace the one you have: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=7 and buy this wheelie bar kit that will bolt on to that plate: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7
If you have an ST with the stock ST gearbox, the mounting location for the gearbox on this plate will not be big enough for the ST gearbox. So you have to get an EXT gearbox and with that you need a EXT2/Brushless differential (Rob recommended the metal diff, that will work). With that, you need EXT dogbones and axles, along with 4mm locknuts. You will also need EXT outdrive springs. With all that and the Brushless rear chassis plate and wheelie bar kit, the ST can have a wheelie bar and metal differential. Also if you have an ST, get the Metal idler gear and make a full metal gearbox. No mods required! It pops right in! http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAEJL&P=7
Tires: Pro-line Badlands, Pro-line Gladiators, Pro-line Dirt Hawgs II, and Panther Sand Paws are tires that work very well on the Evader. Be sure to have 32P pinion/spur if you run the Badlands though. Gladiators only work well on the back set of tires. Same with the Sand Paws.
For Camber and steering adjustments or any adjustments, followed the manual. The manual is very helpful with it's "exploded view" for every part of the truck. Find the EXT2.4 in this list of manuals: http://www.duratrax.com/downloads/index.html If you have a discontinued Evader, find your model in this list of manuals: http://www.duratrax.com/downloads/discontinued.html The discontinued models include the ST, DT, BX, EXB, EXT, EXT2, and the Brushless model.
Bodies: Most of the Evader Bodies are interchangeable. I'm pretty sure the EXB and the BX are the only models that have bodies specifically designed for them. All the rest use the same body posts and will work with any of the Evaders except the EXB and BX. The EXB and BX can be modded to use other Evader bodies and the same for other Evaders to use the EXB and BX bodies. The mod includes simply changing the front body posts.
That's about all I can think of for now.
12-16-2014, 08:37 PM
#10
Thanks for chiming in Nate.
I had a graphite chassis for a good two or three years. Proved to be tough as hell. But I got it for a song, not the retail price. $
$ It finally developed some cracks, not at the chassis/bulkhead "hinge", but back where the chassis starts to really flair out to the widest part. A bad tumble finally broke it recently. Got a regular "Magna-Flex" chassis. Been raining here of late, so maybe I'll get 'round to rebuilding it.
Ah, you mentioned the screws....Yes DTX could've used a coarser thread pitch fer sure. And personally, I hated the phillips screw heads. I switched to hex-head.
I currently have an Evader with Gladiators front and rear. I thought the Glads gave it nice traction for good steering. Of course, steering is sometimes only possible if you let off the throttle first, no matter what front tire you have! lol I could see, tho, that Glads on the front might be TOO much grip for pavement.
I had a graphite chassis for a good two or three years. Proved to be tough as hell. But I got it for a song, not the retail price. $
$ It finally developed some cracks, not at the chassis/bulkhead "hinge", but back where the chassis starts to really flair out to the widest part. A bad tumble finally broke it recently. Got a regular "Magna-Flex" chassis. Been raining here of late, so maybe I'll get 'round to rebuilding it. Ah, you mentioned the screws....Yes DTX could've used a coarser thread pitch fer sure. And personally, I hated the phillips screw heads. I switched to hex-head.
I currently have an Evader with Gladiators front and rear. I thought the Glads gave it nice traction for good steering. Of course, steering is sometimes only possible if you let off the throttle first, no matter what front tire you have! lol I could see, tho, that Glads on the front might be TOO much grip for pavement.
12-18-2014, 06:49 PM
#11
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
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My ST actually came with almost all hex hardware. Did your EXT2 have more Phillips?
Gladiators are great from what I've read and heard, but they really shine bright on the rears. After reading, I think there are better tires for the front, IMO.
Gladiators are great from what I've read and heard, but they really shine bright on the rears. After reading, I think there are better tires for the front, IMO.
02-09-2015, 11:31 AM
#14
Forgot something: Anyone ever try to buy the little spacers that go on the axles behind the wheel from Duratrax? AFAIK, you can't! Don't even have a part number!
But I found that Durango makes a replacement you can buy by itself. Team Durango part# TD310032 "Crunch Spacer, Front Axle (2pcs)" $2.79
Don't see them on Tower Hobbies, but you can get your LHS to order them, or, buy them from Amazon! (I am finding more and more RC stuff on Amazon)
But I found that Durango makes a replacement you can buy by itself. Team Durango part# TD310032 "Crunch Spacer, Front Axle (2pcs)" $2.79
Don't see them on Tower Hobbies, but you can get your LHS to order them, or, buy them from Amazon! (I am finding more and more RC stuff on Amazon)
