Graphite parts. From what I've heard/had, graphite parts are strong in the form of stiffness but are quite brittle. I can't recommend any of the graphite parts but then again, but I haven't had very many of them. Anybody have some input on that?

I'm not a fan of how Duratrax use machine screws in plastic. Not sure what they were thinking there. For me, I have lots of stripped screw holes on my Evader. I've fixed most of them by either putting in longer screws to grab new plastic, putting a locknut on the backside where I can, pouring glue down the hole and drilling the hole out to the right spec to give the screw new material to put threads in, or using Teflon tape on the screw. Those are just a couple of many ways to fix the issue and I'm sure many other models have the same problem. I think if Duratrax used sheet metal screws, wood screws, or screws made for plastic they could solve the problem.

Shocks: They leak all over! For me anyway. lol It's been suggested to use titanium coated shock shafts and "Green Slime" on the o-ring seals. Here is the shock seal kit necessary for rebuilding the shocks: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMK4&P=7 and the titanium shafts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCXP2&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBDK8&P=7

I myself use the EXT2 wheels from Duratrax and have no trouble. I've heard good and bad about the wheels. The only time I ruined one was when my wheel nut came loose because I hadn't replaced it in awhile. That's another thing! Replace your 4mm wheel nuts every other time you take the wheels off. The nylon locking part wears out really fast and loses it's grip, letting the nut come loose. Getting flanged nuts with serrated teeth on the flange helps a lot too. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSGZ2&P=ML

If you run in a good amount of water, remember to shoot your front wheel bearings, rear hub bearings, and axle stubs/outdrives with WD-40 or CRC to keep them from rusting and binding. It definitely increases the life of the bearings and outdrive springs. I would also recommend an aluminum steering horn to go on the servo. They are fairly cheap and don't strip as easily when the steering takes a beating from a crash. Depending on the brand of servo you have, there are 23T, 24T, and 25T horns. The servo saver is supposed to save this horn and servo from stripping but because I run my servo saver near locked, I've had issues with that. The Evader EXT2.4 and I believe all Evaders come with a servo that has plastic gears. When you strip the gears in the servo and need a new servo, this is a strong, reliable option that is good speed and strength at a reasonable price: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ89&P=ML

Something I did recently is I changed my spur and pinion gears to a different pitch. I went from 48P to the much strong 32P. This can be accomplished with this spur gear: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEWN9&P=7 and this pinion: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEX00&P=7 (Side Note - I bought the 60T spur and modded my gear cover to fit. I recently found this 56T that is smaller and won't require a gear cover mod. That makes this mod a very good one, easy to install, and comes in at less $8. I really recommend it now. It's so much stronger!)

Aluminum Parts: Other than the few that Rob listed, do not buy any of the aluminum shock towers or A-arms as they are over priced and not worth the $$. Plastic is much cheaper and in most cases stronger because it flexes more upon impact. Aluminum rear hubs and front knuckles however are ok if you absolutely need them or are trying to make a shelf queen and have the money. Anything Integy brand is taking a risk, so buy Duratrax. If you're looking at an Integy product that you really want (Some of their stuff is very tempting!), check up on the reviews and think good and hard about it before getting it. Integy used to be ok but as I've been finding out, most of their stuff is molded alloy which makes the metal very porous. Their bad designs in key locations aids the failure of the product is well. Some of their stuff is machined CNC and will say so. That stuff usually isn't too bad.

If your radio dies at some point or you want to upgrade to something with a digital screen, the best radio I've owned so far has been the FlySky GT3B. http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html Awesome settings, programming, range, screen, etc. The part I don't like is the 8AA batteries it takes every other month. To get around that you can either do the famous lipo battery mod or buy the GT3C instead that comes with a lipo. http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-ct3c-3...lcd-green.html It's $15 more but I've heard it's worth it.

Like EGBasher said, 35W oil is pretty much the perfect stuff for the Evader shocks: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX3310&P=ML

If you want a wheelie bar, then you will have to have either an EXT, EXT2, or Brushless model to avoid a long hard road of getting one (like I went down). This is not for the ST model. Get this rear chassis plate to replace the one you have: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=7 and buy this wheelie bar kit that will bolt on to that plate: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7

If you have an ST with the stock ST gearbox, the mounting location for the gearbox on this plate will not be big enough for the ST gearbox. So you have to get an EXT gearbox and with that you need a EXT2/Brushless differential (Rob recommended the metal diff, that will work). With that, you need EXT dogbones and axles, along with 4mm locknuts. You will also need EXT outdrive springs. With all that and the Brushless rear chassis plate and wheelie bar kit, the ST can have a wheelie bar and metal differential. Also if you have an ST, get the Metal idler gear and make a full metal gearbox. No mods required! It pops right in! http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAEJL&P=7

Tires: Pro-line Badlands, Pro-line Gladiators, Pro-line Dirt Hawgs II, and Panther Sand Paws are tires that work very well on the Evader. Be sure to have 32P pinion/spur if you run the Badlands though. Gladiators only work well on the back set of tires. Same with the Sand Paws.

For Camber and steering adjustments or any adjustments, followed the manual. The manual is very helpful with it's "exploded view" for every part of the truck. Find the EXT2.4 in this list of manuals: http://www.duratrax.com/downloads/index.html If you have a discontinued Evader, find your model in this list of manuals: http://www.duratrax.com/downloads/discontinued.html The discontinued models include the ST, DT, BX, EXB, EXT, EXT2, and the Brushless model.

Bodies: Most of the Evader Bodies are interchangeable. I'm pretty sure the EXB and the BX are the only models that have bodies specifically designed for them. All the rest use the same body posts and will work with any of the Evaders except the EXB and BX. The EXB and BX can be modded to use other Evader bodies and the same for other Evaders to use the EXB and BX bodies. The mod includes simply changing the front body posts.

That's about all I can think of for now.