The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
I think we should all just E-mail duratrax and request a evader sct (Short Course Truck) I bet they are planing on making one soon anyhow...but we should all e-mail them asking for a Evader SCT short course truck anyhow.... any one in?
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
@ Pede 187 - Duly noted, I may have to do that if I detect that screws are pulling thru - thanks!
@ shenlonco - I think they may have stopped at the DT...who knows, maybe they're working on one. I would like to see them just make a stretched version of the ST chassis and let us do the rest ;-)
@ shenlonco - I think they may have stopped at the DT...who knows, maybe they're working on one. I would like to see them just make a stretched version of the ST chassis and let us do the rest ;-)
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: jrowles91
What kind of speeds can you get out of your ST with the vxl on 24t? Any idea? Is it still capable of wheelies?
What kind of speeds can you get out of your ST with the vxl on 24t? Any idea? Is it still capable of wheelies?
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: dtxandtrx
I am able to get around 55mph and yes with 2.2 tires on it it wil do wheelies.
I am able to get around 55mph and yes with 2.2 tires on it it wil do wheelies.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
I am running a traxxas velineon with a 2s 2000 lipo. I run my slipper very tight and have the hpi pads on it. i don't know how it does around 55mph but it does.
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
All dtx needs for an evader sct is a steel 29t idler instead of the nitro idler and a longer chassis. It should have the st transmission maybe new wheels and tires or it could go with wider dt ones. New body mounts to fit the longer body and of course, a new body. And of course the chassis battery tray should only be the length of the original. Also the chassis should be reinforced so it isnt sloppy. Full bearing set and aluminum shocks with a little heavier oil and the progressive springs. And i like the ext2 esc mount and battery strap. Maybe for the price of the st and they should make a pro version kit with full graphite like the st pro and with anodized shocks. Free to add your own electronics. I dont know about a good price for this though...
And i did email this to Dtx with a link to this thread.
And i did email this to Dtx with a link to this thread.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: Crapxxas19
All dtx needs for an evader sct is a steel 29t idler instead of the nitro idler and a longer chassis. It should have the st transmission maybe new wheels and tires or it could go with wider dt ones. New body mounts to fit the longer body and of course, a new body. And of course the chassis battery tray should only be the length of the original. Also the chassis should be reinforced so it isnt sloppy. Full bearing set and aluminum shocks with a little heavier oil and the progressive springs. And i like the ext2 esc mount and battery strap. Maybe for the price of the st and they should make a pro version kit with full graphite like the st pro and with anodized shocks. Free to add your own electronics. I dont know about a good price for this though...
And i did email this to Dtx with a link to this thread.
All dtx needs for an evader sct is a steel 29t idler instead of the nitro idler and a longer chassis. It should have the st transmission maybe new wheels and tires or it could go with wider dt ones. New body mounts to fit the longer body and of course, a new body. And of course the chassis battery tray should only be the length of the original. Also the chassis should be reinforced so it isnt sloppy. Full bearing set and aluminum shocks with a little heavier oil and the progressive springs. And i like the ext2 esc mount and battery strap. Maybe for the price of the st and they should make a pro version kit with full graphite like the st pro and with anodized shocks. Free to add your own electronics. I dont know about a good price for this though...
And i did email this to Dtx with a link to this thread.
Whats wrong with the nitro idler? Why would they remake something that is already being used?
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
I contacted them also saying they should make a evader SCT short course truck and let them know a lot of guy's would like one and that i felt the chassis of the evader will be very competitive if raced with the others out now.
Told them all they need is longer chassis some front and rear bumpers new body mounts a body and tires and wheels and they would be set.
Told them all they need is longer chassis some front and rear bumpers new body mounts a body and tires and wheels and they would be set.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Went out and beat on the Evader ST today. Was having fun skimming across the water at 40-45mph. I think I got my slipper nut to hold, but had the slipper a little too loose and melted the spur gear right off. anyone ever done that?
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Just having a few problems with my Evader DT. I cannot tighten the wheel nuts tight. Every time I do the wheels kind seize up. If i back them off the wheel wobbles and I am afraid of losing the nut. Anyone have any ideas. I do have bearings coming to replace the bushings.
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Also having another problem. I took the transmission appart to replace the bushings with bearing. I cannot get the little pin out of the slipper clutch/spur gear shaft to put a bearing in. I think it is called a spring pin. I can't get it out no matter what i do. I am just getting very frustrated and afraid I might put to much for on it and really scre things up. Any ideas?
Thx,
Don
Thx,
Don
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAMC5&P=OW
those are the washers you'll want donny as far as spring pins my startegey is to use a pair of needle nose pliers angle them so one part is on the shaft one part is on the top of the spring.... getting them in is even more fun :P
JMHZ could you get pics of this melted spur?
the lug
those are the washers you'll want donny as far as spring pins my startegey is to use a pair of needle nose pliers angle them so one part is on the shaft one part is on the top of the spring.... getting them in is even more fun :P
JMHZ could you get pics of this melted spur?
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Any help with getting this pin out Lug? I snapped the shaft trying to tighten the screw to much. I can't get the shaft out to replace though. Suggestions?
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
as i recall, you have to spin that collar so both openings are exposed then spin the shaft so the pin lines up and push it through. or use a pair of pliers to tear that collar to pieces and use a new one when you go to reassemble.
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
There is a plastic thing that is preventing you from taking the pin out.
Look at your manual and you will be able to tell what im talking about.
Its the ring-like thing and it goes over the opening for the top shaft on the piece on the bottom. Just put your fingers around the plastic which is outside of the opening where the top shaft comes out.
Look at your manual and you will be able to tell what im talking about.
Its the ring-like thing and it goes over the opening for the top shaft on the piece on the bottom. Just put your fingers around the plastic which is outside of the opening where the top shaft comes out.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: JMHZ2401
and melted the spur gear right off. anyone ever done that?
and melted the spur gear right off. anyone ever done that?
Never heard of anyone melting a spur in any R/C, unless your running something insane like a 7700kv mamba...lol
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: jrowles91
Any help with getting this pin out Lug? I snapped the shaft trying to tighten the screw to much. I can't get the shaft out to replace though. Suggestions?
Any help with getting this pin out Lug? I snapped the shaft trying to tighten the screw to much. I can't get the shaft out to replace though. Suggestions?
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Ok so all you have to do it, with your fingers, twist the outer black plastic ring to make the holes line up, then beat the ***** out of it or pry it out with plyers. Then I just hammered it back in. Fairly easy after doing it. Thanks guys.