aftermarket

My Feedback: (2)

The mip cvd bone of my t4. Made a pass with a mm 6900 on six cells and out of no where comes a brief snapping sound followed by a quick turn to the right, ultimately spinning out and hitting a mailbox. The set screw came loose (even with blue locktite) and out came the pin. Chewed an amount of plastic out of the rear a arm before taking off, which led to the crack... other than that, the t4 is fine!

Think this will count for warranty? And will it still run? I think I can gamble for a few more passes if I try not to hit the brakes all too often. haha.

EDIT: Picture didn't upload the first time.

sheograth

You should definitely be able to claim warranty on that.

Mufasa_719

Forsure

The Mad Modder

You have to see what mip says, but since the screw came loose, I know that some companies would dismiss it as improper assembly.

cenracer1

I've had that happen with just about every type of CVD that I ran with my Rustler VXL and on my T-maxx... the screw will eventually come loose even with blue loctite.. My MIP ones were pretty worn before that so I didn't bother with warranty issues... The Integy ones failed after less than a minute.. (two sets) Integy doesn't warranty items installed on cars( go figure that one out) and even RD logics.. They have the same issue as MIP, but thankfully no damage and no crashes... I've since gone back to the stock plastic ones on the Ruslter.. they are much more reliable.. THe T-maxx still uses the RD logics and they are fine, just have to keep an eye on the set screw...

aftermarket

My Feedback: (2)

Man... I loved the drive-shafts on the Traxxas vehicles. Sure, the plastic wore out alot, but I've never broken one... yet I've broken these steel cvd's twice already.

What thread-lock does mip suggest using? Because I think they could easily say that blue isn't enough, no warranty!

Krawlin

The best way to keep the pin from coming out is using a piece of heatshrink over it. Slide it over the dogbone end and onto the CVD joint, leave only a little bet hanging off past the edge of the cup, then use a lighter to shrink it, then just use some blue threadlock on the set screw. If the set screw ever loosens up, you wont lose the pin.

Mufasa_719

+1 Im with krawlin on this one. Best advice I have seen for CVDs

aftermarket

My Feedback: (2)

Awesome advice. I've been thinking of doing it, even have the correct size shrink wrap. That's what I get for laziness.

cenracer1

Great advice using the heat shrink, I've done this on the T-maxx and it works till the screws loosen up... Not so easy to do on the Rustler due to the close confines of the inner cup, but I guess it can be done... just happier using the stock plastic axles and they are holding up pretty well to the abuse of the Mamba Maxx and 5700 KV Castle motor...

The Mad Modder

Well, until you ask them, you won't know.

Chris_RC

If blue isn't enough, try red. I have never had a problem with a locatitied screw coming out, EVER. Also, I use cvd 'condoms'. They are like heat shrink but the material is thicker and better quality. I think GMK sells them.

Redvanmafia

i run jato rear driveshafts on my stampede and there great, but the plastic just wares out to much, but thats all that really gives me a problem in one year of consistant running i'll run thru 2-3 sets

aftermarket

My Feedback: (2)

I got feedback today. It sounds like the set screw coming out is my fault, even with the locktite. I guess so, but it seems mip has themselves in a win-win situation. The man I spoke to said that I'd have to send it in and get it examined, if it has some miles or it's not new, then it's not covered..