Krazy Chicken

you can sant them down, cut them with a dremal, or break them in half

padams10001

Carefully with a hacksaw blade does the trick for me.

callmesamael

So my new body I bought comes with a wing with it. It's a on-road wing but I'm using this truck off-road, so it tends to flip a lot. Do you think I'll have to worry about it getting ripped right out of the lexan body at the screws? (has two screw mounts on a nylon wing)?

callmesamael

So for those of you who use temp guns...what readings do you take? I've heard that since the motor is anodized metal, it reflects and compounds any readings by the temp gun, and so you generally take a reading on the motor, then on the end where there's plastic and take the average. Is this accurate? I also hear it's hotter on the inside than any readings you get on the outside. Anyway, I'm running close to motor temp limits (it says not to exceed 165-175), but my esc isn't getting over 100 (brushless motor and esc. I'm curious what people are doing out there before I melt anything.

hands without shadows

My temp gun ([link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5[/link]) has a setting for anodized metal so its set on that. I measure the end bell and body and take the highest reading.

lakeccrunner

I run an Electric Traxxas Rustler. How does the transmission work? Is it like the transmission in a real car? If it is, why can't I hear it shift?

bladefan

not like a full size car transmission. There is no shifting in your electric rustler. I don't believe any electric off-road cars are set-up for shifting. My brother's nitro on-road car has a centrfigual clutch that shifts when it hits a certain rpm.

callmesamael

Quick question, on the axles on my RC truck, are we supposed to oil them at the hinge (leading into the bearings for the wheels) after cleaning them? I ask because it seems like it'd be real easy for oil to attract dust there and I don't know if it'd be better for it to be a little squeaky.

Krazy Chicken

old emaxx does, but it is a Manuel, and you can setup the new emaxx to do the same

callmesamael

So I'm about to mount a pair of MOABs to my truck. My LHS guy said that I should tape the inside of the tires with something like electrical tape or duct tape to protect against excessive ballooning. Anybody else done this before? Am I suppose to just tape the inside of the treads or the sidewalls too?

Jailbird1818

My Feedback: (5)

Turn the tire inside out and put a few wraps of tape, fiber tape is my choice because it doesn't strech, arround the tread area. I don't do the sidewall area.

-JB

callmesamael

Thanks jailbird.

JustForKicks

What are the pros and cons to Aluminum parts such as bulkheads, a-arms, skid plates and bumpers? I broke a bulkhead on my 3905 e-maxx and was thinking of replacing other parts while I was at it.

Eman77

I think aluminum parts can offer strength, and added bling, but you have to be careful. For example, replacing a part that is supposed to have give to it (like plastic does) with alum might end up putting stress on other parts of the vehicle since the new (alum) part is now rigid.

To me, it depends what you're after and how you use the vehicle. Example, if you have a Stampede that you beat the heck out of every run, replacing it with a ton of alum parts will cost a lot of $$, add weight, and you still might end up breaking something else anyway.

That said, carefully chosen alum parts can help. Example: motor mount.

That's my $.02 anyway.

Eman77

In general, the "transmission" part of an RC vehicle is really just the gear reduction at work. That is, the gear coming from your motor pinion to the spur gear has "gear reduction", so the gearing is set to a desired value by the time it hits the axles, so to speak.

JustForKicks

I'm using an E-Maxx and I run it on Asphalt and dirt/grass. I'm after durability, not so much the bling. I wanted to replace the bulkheads and skid plates with aluminum parts. I also wanted to add the RPM skids to the aluminum skid plates since they were made to go over the original skid plates.

callmesamael

I'm not planning on running my truck for a lil while but I do want to maintain upkeep. How do I know if the shocks need ...maintenance? That is, they seem to be their usual springiness and there's just a small amount of caking around the struts but nothing that seems abnormal (all four corners have about equal amount of dirt on them so I don't think they're leaking)...is it a "if it's not broken, don't fix it " situation or more "it's best to clean as often as possible?" I clean out my bearings pretty regularly but I've never done anything to my shocks aside from taking a tooth brush to it. I don't really know about oil weights or anything either. Help would be appreciated.

evoking1230

Im a noob to electric but not the hobby and nitro.

quick question...

the higher the rating on a 6cell(like 4600mAH) is it the higher the run time?

pretty much im looking to get into electric with my son and looking into a HPI E-Firestorm but will not be running Lipo as of yet or brushless
so just NiMH

The Hedgehog

Yep higher Mah, better runtime.

evoking1230

yea kinda thought so

callmesamael

So I put stiffer springs on the front of my truck (3.4 stock to 4.1 rate) since it was leaning a lot. I'm not sure if it's my imagination, but it seems like the inside wheel is lifting more in high speed turns (the front ones). Does this make sense? I was thinking maybe since my springs are less willing to compress the truck is more likely to just pivot and lean over the entire outside wheel instead (causing inside wheel lift) of the body leaning. Or is just because the rear springs are still softer so the truck is squatting=more front wheel lift? I have another set of blues so I could put them on the back too...