Nice! RC8.2e FTW! :) Yes, I agree, stadium trucks are some of the best. Keep us updated on how it goes. I'd like to here how well people like their 1:8 buggies. I see them around a lot, but haven't heard much on them. Be sure to have fun, cause that's what your paying for! lol

Hey DH, i tried putting another pack through my rc8.2e. Failure. The hobbyking servo i used crapped out...so i put a savox in, problem solved $90 later. Then i continue to run out the same pack, only this time a screw from the steering knuckle backed out and i lost the Bottom sterring block bushing. $15 and maybe like 3 weeks later i will be able to run the buggy again. All this being said...none of these issues are with the ae kit. Seems like i cheaped out on my components and perhaps not enough thread lock on the screw i lost. I still have very high hopes for this buggy.

mmmm.... I'm finding that cheap servos may be alright in a light little truck like the Evader (I've had a $15 servo in that car for years) but in a slightly heavier (4.5lb) 4wd truggy, maybe the cheap servos don't fare so well. So far, I've gone thru THREE of the EXI servos, AND one Hitec 645MG! THAT failure REALLY surprised me. I never thought the Hitec would fail. Nothing stripped, the motor just....quit. Guess I'll have to investigate a different level of servo. Damned if I'm gonna pay $90 for one tho!

futaba s3305. used one in a 1/8 scale nitro buggy for steering. still works today, in it's 5th vehicle.

I get the $46 Hitecs (Not sure of the model #) I might try a waterproof one for another $8 here soon, since I blew up the one in my Evader when using it to lift the plow. Bad, bad idea....

Hey fellas, $90 is the most I have ever paid for a servo. I payed retail for this one from my LHS. Perhaps I could have found one cheaper online but I wanted to get the buggy going for the rest of the weekend. Its not as fast as the HK but Its heaps stronger. I have never needed a servo this strong before. Fingers crossed that this one is better. I kinda didn't mind getting the savox cos I have read great things about them and its not like I am putting it into a cheaper kind of kit. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1981223

I've read that some people like the Savox. If they work for them, great! I've also read that they suck TONS of current and that they frequently cause BECs to "brown-out". My LHS won't even carry them. And Savox isn't the most expensive servo either. The ProTeks are well into the mid-hundreds approaching $200. (But if you NEED 500 oz/in of torque, they're the ones to get) I might try one of the Solar brand servos from HobbyPartz, but then, maybe I'll try a Hitec 625. Same as the 645, just a little faster. Only $30. I haven't looked at the Futaba servos. That one Cumquat mentioned is about the same price as the Hitec, and about the same specs. But if he's used it in FIVE vehicles including an 8th-scale buggy, and it's held up, that says a lot. The Futaba is 124oz/in where the HS625MG is 76oz/in. Hmmm....

should take a look at http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-Digital-Servo in my ofna crt.5 Hong nor mini truggy been working well for a year. did have to buy a glitch buster for my RX tho because of castles crap bec's

I prefer 150in/oz + in my Evader...

i myself have never been able to realy tell the "hi torque" servos vs the "average" ones. because i run a medium tight servo saver on all my cars for bashing so any added strength gets bled off thru it. and its been fine for my crt.5 with SC tires on it and as a 4wd it has more to push then a 2wd. but to each his own and what works for one wont for another...:confused:

I do like the hk servo that failed me. I use it in my evader, it seems strong enough (10 kg) and fast enough (0.10 sec) for a 1/10 2wd ST but i kinda knew i was taking a gamble with it in my 1/8 4wd buggy. I will probably buy this again but not for a 1/8. I am trying dual blubird bms-660's in my summit. Ive had them going since before xmas and holding up well so far.

more if you count very short-lived customs. i bought it back in '08 when i got a duratrax axis (8th scale nitro buggy) from my uncle and was fixing it up. after some incedents, i gave the buggy back and traded the engine for an rc10 goldpan, which was the servo's second home. after playing with that for the summer, i got to tinkering and building custom chassis with the suspension of the rc10 and the trans of my ext (believe it our not, the stock ext trans, with its plastic idler and diff with brass bushings throughout is actually better than the original rc10 trans) over the winter. then, after a year and a half of sitting around, i put the servo into my first tamiya df02. worked perfectly. then, maybe 8 months later, it got put into my ext2 after stripping it's servo. about a year later, i bought another df02 and stripped the electronics from the evader. that's where it's been for over a year now. inadvertently, i just told the majority of my rc life. i got the ext about 4 months before the axis and that year and a half between uses for the 3305 was the summer of the nitro sport and the 8 months without an rc.

HA! Wow. That servo's been around the block a few times! Thanks for that. Fun story too. Just noticed tho that it's torque spec is only 99oz/in at 4.8V. Not the 124 I'd stated. But that's still more than the 76oz/in of a Hitec 625. The MKS is supposedly 111oz/in at the same voltage.... But good recommendations guys, thanks.

DH, what are you running with 150oz/in?

Ech, your Jammin CRT.5 is about the same weight as my HyperTT, about 4.5lbs. So that should work in my car. I agree, it can be hard to discern the differences of servos in the budget segment as far as speed vs torque, unless you try them all, which is kinda hard. I did notice the difference in speed between that EXI servo and the HiTec. The EXI was MUCH faster, you could see it. But I'm on the 3rd, and last, one of the EXI's. Not proving reliable. It is currently displaying an odd behavior wherein it will suddenly pegs to one side and stays there, no steering control. Have to shut the car off and turn it on again. I thought it was maybe an indicator of a receiver problem that eventually manifested in the receiver dying. I pulled the receiver out of my Evader to swap in, and thought the steering thing would stop, but it didn't. It's still happening. So now I'm wondering if there is a problem with the EXI servo that may cause my last receiver to fail? :confused:

Yeah, I used two of these throughout my Evader http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ80&P=ML They are quite nice. The last one I had lasted me over two seasons. It's a nice servo. I think I might try this one next though http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBJCE&P=ML . Otherwise something faster, as I do notice the lag when running. I tighten my servo saver as tight as I can get it, so it basically has no function. I might just as well put a solid piece in place of the servo saver, as it get's no use anyway. It gives better steering reaction and is not needed as much (In my book) with a metal geared servo. I stay away from HK. I like the looks of some of their products, but after reading all the bad reviews on something that looks interesting, I get turned away and purchase something name brand...

Bless my soul! Now I believe Amazon has everything! http://www.amazon.com/FLYSKY-FS-GT3C.../dp/B008YSI7V4
I ordered it on SUNDAY and it got here today, Wednesday. I am stunned. Never thought AMAZON would have RC goodies. Although in reality, they probably don't, really. Not like they had this sitting in the warehouse in Stockton. It got shipped from a third party in the US. Ordered two more Flysky receivers and they got shipped separately.

Nice radio tho. Good deal lighter than the FS GT2 I've been using, with the 8 rechargeable AA's in it. The GT3C has an 800mah lipo pack, and charges right in the radio with an included USB cable. Nice to have some advanced features for not a lot of dough. And one radio now for three cars! Easy enough to figure out w/o having to read much if any of the PDF manual. Good thing too, cuz the descriptions suc. Wish I knew how to program auxiliary control buttons for other functions.

What sort of device would one need to act as a remote switch for activating lights with the 3rd channel?

well, some convert servo boards into switches. others simply use a servo to actuate a switch. or, you could just buy this http://www.rc-lights.com/products/RCL5090.html

I use a small brushed esc as a on/off switch on my planes. That way you can also adjust channel limits for brightness. Very cheap and easy to do.

In the last few weeks I've broken two rear chassis(the small one in the back). It's been cd out but the a-arm rips the pin right out and cracks it. Does anyone know of an upgrade?

Not really, the rear chassis plates aren't available in aluminum like half the rest of the truck is... I believe they should be though! Same for an aluminum ST chassis, the electric that is! I don't have that problem. I would simply suggest, don't run in that cold of weather. (So cold that the plastic is brittle) Wait till spring and save the Evader, yo! :D

Ok, 16 days is too much for this thread! What is everyone up to with their Evaders?!

Not much. Subie-Vader is in top shape. The other Evader is awaiting a motor system and servo I'm planning to order soon. Going to try this Solar D771 servo from hobbypartz someone recomended. It'll work with "high-voltage" 7.4V down to the regular 4.8V, and still put our a respectable 153oz/in at that voltage. For $20 sounds like a good try. Good enough for the Evader anyway. Dunno if I'd trust it in the heavier and 4wd Hyper TT (for which I broke down an bought a $50 Hitec 5625MG Digital, metal gears).

Track is getting dusty again. Need rain. May get some next week.

Hey guys! Sorry to barge in here. I'm looking for a low cost car that I can use whenever my large 1/5 scale is down for repairs either at home or at the track. Would the Evader EXT2 make for a good basher? I read through this thread a little bit, and it seems as if its a good car for the price.

Providing you install good bumpers on it, and perhaps a few of the aluminum pieces still available. Long as you don't try to jump it over your dog house. There's a few things you need to do if you put a brushless system in it, as you would want to. But I've found it to be a pretty bashable car, having learned where stuff can break and then find a better part. Not going too crazy with the BL system helps. Tho Dieharder runs a Traxxas VXL system in his, which, with all due respect DH, seems on the mental side of power for the Evader to me. But the point is, the car CAN handle it, with a few choice parts installed, like the all metal diff, a good front and rear bumper, and music-wire drive pins. The weakest part of the car is the front bulkhead where it connects to the chassis. It's a hinge-type arrangement complete with hingepin. Make a hard hit on one side from the front, and it can break. I was lucky enough to score a graphite chassis for a song and it's still going three years later. A bumper from T-bone Racing would help eliminate that possibility. Watch out for the bottoms of the stock plastic shocks that they don't come loose, as they will break the threads off, and the shock is toast.

Any specific questions?

Thank you very much for that information! Are there any specific aftermarket companies that you would recommend looking into?

Actually, Tower Hobbies carries OEM aluminum parts for the Evader. Some are no longer available, but most are. However the only ones I'd recommend spending the money on are not too bad, like the front hinge pin brace, it's only $3 and is well worth it. The front bulkhead might also be good to get, and I like the aluminum motor plate as it helps cool the motor.

These bumpers from T-bone Racing are great. THey will go a long way to making your Evader bashable.
http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/D...2-ST-p183.html
http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/D...2-ST-p158.html

I mentioned the music wire. I was breaking wheel drive pins when I switched to brushless. THe drive pins are hollow, roller-pins, and they just don't hold up. You can get music wire at your hobby shop. It's make by K&S Precision Metals. Stock # 504 0.062in (1.57mm) works for the drive wheels. They don;t fit tight, and tend to fall out when you take the wheel off, but they'll never break. Stock #502 is 0.047in (1.19mm) and can be used in the Duratrax CV axels but also in the metal diff. There are two pins that each hold one of the drive cups in the diff and that are driven by the large "sun gears". Those pins can also break, and of they do, your diff gears can get munched. Replace that pin behind the sun gears with music wire pins and you'll never need worry. ALSO, on that metal diff, you'll want to first take it all apart and clean everything, especially the screw holes. Then use blue loctite for the screws during reassembly. If any of those screws come loose and you loose diff gear mesh, PFFT! there goes your diff gears again. So make sure those screws don't come loose. I also suggest using TrakPower Waterproof Gear Grease in the diff instead of silicone fluid, as well as for the tranny gears.

Have fun with it!