RC_Feen

My Feedback: (1)

All I can say is WOW! Yesterday I fired up my Marder Race/Beetle with the 26cc for the first time. Started right up after I primed it. Let it warm up and then started to putt around and got a fell for it. This is my first 1/6 scale gas R/C. The car was running good then it started to load-up and was spitting oil out the muffler. I let it idle for awhile and started looking everything over. What do you know, the choke was still half way on. Shut off the choke and it was running great. Man this thing will fly! I did a couple of WOT passes and that was enough to make me realize how fast this thing is and that I needed to adjust the brakes better. I made a brake adjustment but they still don't stop the car like I would like them too. I adjusted the coiler at the rear where it goes through the brake lever. Still the brakes were a little too soft. Do I need to keep making the adjustments back were the brake linkage goes through the rear brake lever to get the braking I want? I'm now thinking hard about getting front hydro brakes for this thing. With the speed this thing will hit, I definately want better braking power. Thanks!

jeepfreak1972

I had to put the FG cable disk breaks on the front to stop my MB the way I wanted it to stop. Stock all it did was lock up the rear wheels and skid. If your car will not lock up the tires, maybe your servo isn't strong enough. My throttle- brake servo has 180 oz of torque.

geniusgene

A cheap fix is too move the linkage closer to the servo on the horn. You will get less throw but it will be stronger. the brakes will be touchy but will definatly lock the rear up.

RC_Feen

My Feedback: (1)

I'm using the Hitec HS-645MG servo for the throttle/brake servo. Do you think I have enough torque to lock up the brakes with this servo? It's rated 133.31 oz/in at 6.0V. If so I think the linkage or the radio setting for the brake needs some fine tuning.

geniusgene

yes. Im using a weaker servo that I had laying around planning to upgrade it, but its locking the rears so i'm sticking w/ it untill it breaks.

jeff-fischer

My Feedback: (6)

More power with a servo can always help if you have just the single brake. Big thing is the more power you get, the more your rear brakes will lock up. If you have a radio that has a anti-lock brake setting like the Futaba 3PK, or many of the better radios have, that is a big plus and helps all stop a lot better without going to a front brake. Sure the front brakes will give you a lot more stopping power, but until then try a few things to see if they work for you. It is kind of like when you drive a car that uses a one-way in the front, about the only way to get much stopping power is to have a radio with a anti-lock system, other wise the rear will just come around and pass the front when you go to brake in corners, (but this is mainly from a racing point)

ibstar

if its brand new it might just need a bit of braking in.
hydros arn't needed cable will do
but be carefull were you run, a mate ran on the beach, and the sand gets between disc and pads and eats the pads, there only £25 so can get expensive

RC_Feen

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to check out my radio and make some adjustments and see how my brakes are then.

Croozer

My Feedback: (1)

You should not be making WOT passes with a new engine, at least till the 2nd tank of fuel.

ibstar

na

RC_Feen

My Feedback: (1)

Yea I know I shouldn't be doing WOT passes but I needed to see how this thing ran. Having 3 nitro R/C's and this being the first gas R/C I couldn't resist. Who wouldn't? I had the choke on for a majority of the tank before I figured out what was causing it to load up. I'm sure the engine will be fine.

sasquatch1976

RC_Feen: I have replaced the inferior dual disc brake setup. I have a Hitec 5945MG for brake/gas ant it is plenty strong.

I got the conversion kit for the bigger brake discs from touringcars and the like. Then I bought the tuning brake set + a new gear carrier beause the new single disc brakes will not fit the stock one...

It will cost you approx. €70 for the brake kit conversion with a plastic gear carrier and €85 with a alu carrier. I got the alu because the bearings fit extremenly well in this....

Just remember that the tuning brake pads will take a while too for break-in. Linger than the others I think... But i PROMISE you the breaking will increase..

Also having the brakes on the back only will enable you to spin the truck fast if needed by locking the wheels + turning. This can save you from a few head-ons.... ysuslly the 1:1 bus or concrete wall will win. [8D]