rcpilot1982

I used tower pro mg90 metal gear servos for my copter x 450 pro.After learning that it was a recommended cheap budget 450 servo.Now i just orderd a Beam E4 v2 advanced flybarless edition and was wondering if the tower pro mg90s digital version of this same servo would work for a flybarless heli since a flybarless heli needs faster digital servo??

ATVAlliance

They should be fine unless you are doing some extreme 3D flying.  And then they may be ok still, but if it were me and I was flying extreme 3D with the heli, Id get something better.

I dont have any FBL helis...but in my reading you may have to tweak with the gain a little when using them.  Supposedly, they are very similar to the HS65MG's.  And I use them on my heli and they are great!

I dont think I would use one on the tail though.

rcpilot1982

How about the exi d123f digital with metal gear.I think the digital tp90s have 1.8kg of tourq is that enough

jester_s1

Have a look at the solar servos. I'm impressed with mine on a budget 450. I used the .12 second digitals all around. They hold well and center very well. The tail servo is slow but good enough for me at this point.

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

hey rc  arent you still learning hover mode?  although its none of my biz and it is your $$ its like i said in another post where you were asking about your 250 but i will say it again. leave em all sit except 1 and use it, learn it, fly it, wreck it, get good at it then start in with the others !  you would be wayyy better off getting a mcpx  imho as you will learn in leaps and bounds. but there again like i said at the start of this its none of my biz.

rcpilot1982

Yeah 2 fridays ago was my first ever hover and from there i was doing 2 battery packs every day until today when i transitioned into forward flight.I took the machine around the football field and did some large figure 8ts so im coming allong.

I came into some money and wanted to get one top end machine and after looking around i decided to get a Beam E4 v2 FBL,and a Miniature aircraft Furion 450.I did lots and lots of research as to what was the best 450 and all that came up besides the trex was the Beam and the Excel...with both the Beam and Ecxel taking the win.Do to the engineering and world class machine work.

My fathers 34 year experience as a machinest backed those 2 up as being true to there reputation so i decided to treat my self to both of them since i am going back to the 3rd Ranger battalion in November so i figured i might as well live while i have the chance.

They will both be shelf trophys...trust me i am not flying them any time soon,i just wanted to build them and have fun doing it as well as own them.Landing seems to be the harder part now.

What about the corona 939mg? also i just found out that although before when i looked at the tp90 and found the tp90s.I asked what the difference was and was told many places that the tp90s is the digital version of the same servo.Last night after buying them i read that it is fact now a digital servo so i dont know what im going to do now? do i need digitals for the FBL?

PS...I am listening to you.I learned CCPM set on a forum mostly due to you and ATV's help.I learned it so good that i got the heli hovering in one spot with very little effort......i got the idea of the carectoristics of the ccpm system in that while i can hover hands off with my fixed pitch models.You are constantly making corrections to keep these helis where you want them but i am doing good.As far as the 250 goes i did try and fly it anyway do to the fact that i could fit it in a small room since my local field was always being used for baseball,and just as you said would happen did.$$$$$$$$$$......The 250 vibrates alot though.While the rotor head spools up the head wobbled and then become true under speed but the vibration caused my canopy to act like a grinder and grind away the covering on the battery and the canopy grinded the landing gear.I took the head off and cheched the shaft and it spins really streight but once the rotor hub is added it starts to wobble i dont know if its the center top rotor hub or what.

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

you can balance your whole head  with some balancers  whats the condition of the feather shaft? eeasily remove a blade insert your allen or torx and turn the bolt like your tighting it and you will see any bend in it. leaving the blade on the other end shows you any bend even the smallest you may miss if there is one. flybarless is a whole new animal, where its not hard to figure out its easier if someone who knows it is there. im finishing up a gazaur mars that i converted to fbl  with a skookum 360  and im still hesitant on spooling it up lol been looking at it sit on the table for a week now !  if you have the money get yourself the best electronics you can !  spartan quarks r popping up all over in the 70 $$ range now  and truthfully if you can get yourself  futaba or hitec digital mg's  they are tried and true for years now. get the best you can afford !

rcpilot1982

Is there any special way to plug in the cyclic servos for flybarless helis? i bought the copter x fbl unit since after i bought the Miniature aircraft excel furion and Beam e4 v2 fbl,i am low on cash.I watched some setup instructions for some unti that was supposed to be related to mine and it shows the guy installing the aileron,elevator and pitch servos in channel 1,2 and 3???? where normally the throttle is channel 3.


Also i just installed the servos in my HK500CMT,and channel 1 is aileron,channel 2 is elevator,and channel 6 is pitch.Now i normally as i look at the heli from the back to the front,assign the servo on the right as the aileron and the servo on the left as pitch,but i was not able to get the system to work until i made the left servo the aileron....is this ok? and do you know why it was like that? i tried reversin one servo or another or reversing one or more servos on the swash mix and nothing.

ehirobo ehirobo

For the copterX CX-3X1000 gyro, connect the cyclic servo to ch 1 , 2, and 3. Rudder servo to ch4. For the receiver to gyro connection please refer to the manual. The esc connect directly to receiver ch3. For your 500 the 2 front servo should be ch1 and 6, and the rear servo should be ch2. it does not matter which "front" servo is ch 1 or 6. as long as the setup is correct and everything move in right direction.

rcpilot1982

Ok you said the cyclic servos plug into channel 1,2,3....and then you said that the ESC plugs into channel 3? normally i plug the speed control into channel 3,and the aileron and pitch servo into channel 1,and 2.

Channel 4 i plug in the gyro and then i plug the plug the gyro control plug into channel 5.Ok so again how does the copter x fbl unit wire?

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

does that fbl controller require you to change your swash setting in the tx to 1 servo like most? make sure you do that and dont have it set to 120/ 3 servo !

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

Did you not get a manual with your fbl unit?

A 5 second search gave me [link=http://www.ky-model.com/copterx/cx-3x1000_manual.pdf]this[/link].

rcpilot1982

Yeah i searched and found tha manual but that manual is not enough.Its talking about settings for servos that have a certain not speed but something that i dont even know what it means.I tried searching online for this term but came up with nothing so a forum is the only way.

Something about 1520us analog? if the servo i am using has this rating?? Tower pro MG90s.It is funny that when i first started to build my cx450 pro.I was told that the tp mg90 is a good budget servo and it is as it has no slop at all and survived a couple hard crashes.Anyway,when i went to buy it i found an mg90s and the mg90.

When i asked what the difference was and witch to get,i read that the mg90s is the digital version of the servo.So now that i am building the beam 450 fbl and read that digital servos are needed here,i thought that the mg90s digital would fit the bill.Until i bought them and after doing so am reading all over the net now that both servos are in fact analog...lol...oh the internet.

There is also not a trace of that previous info saying that the mg90s is digital...lol...

rcpilot1982

What if i was to grab 3 Align ds425m digital servos for my Beam E4 V2 FBL? would those be better for the cyclic?

rcpilot1982

I just grabbed 3 Align DS415m servos for the cyclic of my Beam E4 V2 FBL are those good?

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

who says you need digital to use for fbl?  i took my gazaur i converted to fbl out yesterday  its running hitec 65mg's and the heli flew just fine  nice and stable.  btw they are analog servos. them mg90's should do just fine as i do beleive they are pretty close in specs.

rcpilot1982

Oh ok well today and $70 later i orderd 3 Align DS415m servos...lol...and then of course i read all the bad reviews about them.Just like everything else.Before i buy the product i look and find good reviews,as in this ds415m servo.Everyone was recommending them as some of the best servos in general.Although as soon as i buy them i read bull####.I have 3 of them for the cyclic and one Turnegy s306g for the tail.I read a comparison of this turnegy servo compared to the align ds410 and the turnegy was said to be better,but the ds415 is still an align product so im sure its fine.


Im not sure about this FBL setup though.You say to set my aurora 9 as a 1 servo swash but the Beam e4 manual says to set it as 120?? could you give me some instruction? Normally i plug the SC into channel 3 and 1 and 2 are the ail and elevator and channel 6 is pitch but what now?

I found the manual for the cx1000 fbl unit but i dont know what to set the unit for the servos im using.

I have alot of building to do for this Beam e4 advance.It is completly in pieces but the quality is unreal.It is quite a bit higher than my Align trex 450pro.I cant wait until my Miniature aircraft excel furion 450 comes

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

i have no idea about that 1 as i dont own that controller bro  all i know is the mcpx, my mikado and my skookum all says to set tx to 1 servo  because the fbl controller takes care of the cyclic servos. i cannot see why copterx would be any differant. but the fbl controller should say and that is what you will want to follow!  as far as align servos go i dont have to much to say about them  the stock servos for the 500 im not impressed with much one has a very hard time returning to center lol.

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

the manual goggles posted states right at chapter 7  set swash to no mixing mode  which means 1 servo .

rcpilot1982

Yeah man i am having a hard time here.I am reading the copter x directions and basically it says to enter programe mode and i did but the way the manual is written is no good.I am able to change the light configurations but the manual seems incomplete as to what each combo does.Besides my fbl unit came out of the package with half the sticker torn off and its missing.

Would the cx programmer box make a big difference?

rcpilot1982

I figured out how to get to each mode.I wathced a video of this guy programming a Tarot fbl unit and was told its the same as the cx 3x1000.I learned that 1 or any number of flashes followed by a series of blinks from a yellow light means you select and modify each parimeter.

Like you press the program button and all 3 led lights on the unit will blink from 1 to 6 times and then there follows a blink of a yellow light,and as you move the cyclic stick left or right you increase or decrease the blinks therefore selecting a certain value per parimeter.

There is 2 different programing systems,one is enterd if you hold the rudder stick one way during bootup or initialization.Then there is another programing system if you hold the aileron stick one way during bootup.Each programming system is used to adjust different areas in the gyro.

My only trouble now is that although the servo moves lightning fast when i move the FBL unit around.The servo seems to have some delay if i manually move the servo by moving the rudder or aileron sticks.There is also a delay in the servos return to center after i move the aileron or any of the sticks one way and then release the stick.
Instead of the servo quickly centering back,the servo returns to center kind of slow.Is this normal? If i grab the FBL unit and move it around fast then the servo will move with full throws and and fast and powerfull.If i use the transmitter sticks to move the servo,then its slower.Maby it is moving the same amount but its much tamer and slowly returns to center apon the release of the sticks?

Now the manual shows that the 2 reciever wires coming from the top of the fbl unit are the rudder and gyro gain control and they go to channel 4 and 5.Then the manual shows the bunch of wires labeled pitch/ele/ail splitting to 2 single wires.One is a single white wire that says pitch so i plugged it into channel 6/batt on my optima 6 and then another single red wire that i sent to channel 2 and last but not least a set of black/red/black wires that i sent to channel 1.

I also set my Aurora9 to 90 degree single servo,but have to wait until my ds415ms come to set eveything up on the heli.This is weird in that this FBL unit has to control everything? it is controlling the ccpm mix and everything huh? i am supposed to go into programming mode to make sure all the servo rise and fall together and everything?

And i set the FBL unit for the type of swash plate i have? 120 degree? this thing has alot of weight on its hands.Now i understand why they can go for $800.I hope this $41 unit takes care of my $240 airframe.

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

I shot this video, do you mean like this??


[link=http://youtu.be/6QvucB_MO2Q]600 swash[/link]


Normal.


Yes, this is how the fbl controllers are suppose to work.....wouldn't be much of a fbl controller if it only did the tail.


Off topic, does anyone know how I could have embedded that video?

rcpilot1982

Wow, my idea of a flybar unit was basically a gyro for all 3 cyclic servos to help you take control of the machine.Since you are losing the flybar witch is a source of balance,and also lose all that weight in the rotor head.The machine is much quicker in its movement and its drifting,as well as sensative as to your corrections.So i assumed that the fbl unit initializes itself while the heli is in a set position and then as you fly it the fbl unit will cause the heli to stay in a general area instead of speeding off in any direction.

I also would think that if you get into trouble that you could kind of release the stick and the heli would re balance itself.It sounds like a fbl heli with a good setup could be more stable than a flybar machine.

A;so is it normal for the servo to kind of slowly return to center when i move the aileron to the left and then let the stick go? it seems that yours were doing that in the video??? but there also seems to be a delay when i move the cyclic stick.But if i move the fbl unit then the servo moves with lightning speed? How would you make fast 3d moves with the delay?

rcpilot1982

Well i dropped another $100 tonight.I decided to grab a Futaba s9257 ep heli servo for the tail of my Beam E4 fbl instead of the Turnegy s306g.As well as a Pulse 2250 3s 11.1 45c battery.I am going to use the tgy 306 for the tail of my hk500cmt instead.So my setup is 3 Align Ds415m for cyclic, yep 45A sc,Turnegy helidrive sk3 competition series motor, Copter x cx3x1000 fbl unit, and Futaba S9257 ep rudder servo.Hopefully this is my first good setup

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

Not at all, when you release the stick and it goes back to center, what happens to the blades.....they go back to neutral. So lets say you roll the heli to it's right side and release the sticks. Your blades return to zero but the heli is still on it's right side because nothing has told it to counter the roll back to the left side and level. The fbl controller does what you tell it to do via stick movement and it's job is to keep it in the last known position that you told it to keep. Go up 100', point the nose straight up and do a tail slide straight down. If you let go of the sticks, it'll keep the tail pointing to the ground even though it's going backwards because that was it's last known input you gave it. However if you wait to long you better have a shovel because you'll be digging the tail out of the dirt.

IMO, this is some what true. I did this last weekend with my 700 to show my friend how stable the fbl is, I went into a hover about 10' of the ground and let go of the sticks. 30 seconds later it was still in the same spot hovering with out me touching the controls. Now if it was windy, the wind would carry it across the field but it would still be level because it's last know position was told to keep it level. My 600 flew really good before I decided to try the fbl. I wanted to see what all the hype was about so I converted it, and for me, it made a great flying heli fly even better. Then I got the 700 this year and it's so stable it makes a poor flyer (me) look good, lol.

It's suppose to, other wise it would not be able to make the quick adjustments necessary to keep it steady.