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C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video

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Old 11-09-2013, 08:51 AM
  #3476  
husafreak
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I read thru the whole thread. Took a few weeks. Thanks for all the great info. Do I get a medal or boyscout type patch for doing that?
Old 11-09-2013, 09:01 AM
  #3477  
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How do you guys like the CARF supplied gear Festo air plumbing? I guess I just got used to using barbed fittings throughout in my previous planes and I'm worried the Festo connections won't stay together at 100psi (I meant 85psi!) Or would wear out over time.
1. Is the one way fill valve reliable? (I have only used the BVM one)
2. Any leaks with the "T" fittings. (I was once told to only use all plastic "T"s)
3. Does anyone use those 3mm couplers? (I have only used the Robart type quick disconnects)
Old 11-09-2013, 10:19 AM
  #3478  
Dave Wilshere
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I use Festo barbed T's (quick connects just too heavy/bulky) One way valve is brilliant, use it on all my models.

Use Robart/BVM Quarter turn joiners...1st and only choice for me.

Dave
Old 11-09-2013, 10:25 AM
  #3479  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
I use Festo barbed T's (quick connects just too heavy/bulky) One way valve is brilliant, use it on all my models.

Use Robart/BVM Quarter turn joiners...1st and only choice for me.

Dave

Where do you use the one-way valve? on the filling tube?

Azzam
Old 11-09-2013, 10:35 AM
  #3480  
Dave Wilshere
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Yes, its the filler, so 4mm tube in from the tank and a section of 4mm tube on your air pump for connection.

D
Old 11-09-2013, 07:07 PM
  #3481  
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OK thanks, I will substitute the Robart/BVM 1/4 turn joiners at the wing junction and use the Festo one way fill valve and barbed airline T's.
Old 11-09-2013, 08:32 PM
  #3482  
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Originally Posted by BoomerSooner
I used the full bypass with my p80se. Worked great. I'm building another with a p140 and am installing the full bypass as well
Thanks, that's my plan with the 180 but I remember 1 or 2 people with concerns throughout this thread about enough bypass air while using the bigger turbines. Any 180 users following this thread? Dave, you do any 180RX Installs?
thanks, Jay
Old 11-09-2013, 10:25 PM
  #3483  
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I want to paint the inside of the plane where the electronics are in the nose.
Is there some kind of wax from the mold on the fiber glass there? Do i need to de-grease the inside and sand it prior to painting/spraying?

Thanks,

Ed
Old 11-09-2013, 10:54 PM
  #3484  
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Originally Posted by BlueBus320
Thanks, that's my plan with the 180 but I remember 1 or 2 people with concerns throughout this thread about enough bypass air while using the bigger turbines. Any 180 users following this thread? Dave, you do any 180RX Installs?
thanks, Jay
No issue at all with mine using the full bypass and 180RX.
Old 11-10-2013, 02:25 AM
  #3485  
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Jay

As Birdy says we have a few flying the UF with 160-180 turbines fully byepassed and no issues. Inlets are on the small side and I wondered about putting a duct in the inlet Y and meshing it, additional air could be taken through the nose openings. Just our air temps are a lot cooler that you might see.

Ed Only the wax from the moulding process, I just wash the inside with thinners and paint the glass surface. Its so rough its not an issue with adhesion.

Dave
Old 11-10-2013, 03:07 AM
  #3486  
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Thanks Dave!
Old 11-10-2013, 07:34 AM
  #3487  
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I read a post here and also talked to someone at BITW about the CARF supplied nose wheel being too hard for good directional control. Is BVM the supplier for a softer tire? Is it much of an issue for you hard surface runway fliers? I am in California so all the runways are hard surface.
Old 11-10-2013, 08:16 AM
  #3488  
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Originally Posted by husafreak
I read a post here and also talked to someone at BITW about the CARF supplied nose wheel being too hard for good directional control. Is BVM the supplier for a softer tire? Is it much of an issue for you hard surface runway fliers? I am in California so all the runways are hard surface.
Rubbish! The Behotec nose tyre is not hard. I'd say its someone who 1/has the main wheels angled out or 2/ has sticky nose closed loop or 3/ Can't use the rudder on take off.

I've flown UF on Concrete and Tarmac runways with many differing surfaces and it steers and tracks fine. This side of the pond never heard any issues.

D
Old 11-10-2013, 08:58 AM
  #3489  
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I'm on concrete & have ZERO directional control issues. I was also flying with a P-100 which (I think) meant slightly more ground time before reaching rotation speed. As far as the P-180 responses, As always, Thanks again Dave & Andy Bird.
Old 11-10-2013, 09:28 AM
  #3490  
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Posted this on another thread & figured I'd copy & paste it (because of its relevance) to this one for anyone considering a new sport jet.
IMO, If you add everything up it will be VERY hard to top the Carf Ultra Flash; Transportability (1 fuse, 1 wing, 2 bolt=beautiful thing), strength (1pc rigid wing incredibly strong), price (about middle of the road), resale value, size (about the same as BV F100) big enough to see, small enough to transport, proven reliability, flight characteristics (will go toe to toe with ANYTHING on this planet!). If you haven't tried one, it is for sure something to always have in your fleet. Can be an everyday beater, or put in a big block & bring it out when you want to express yourself with something f%$&ING ballistic!
Old 11-10-2013, 10:07 AM
  #3491  
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Yep, we had that debate many times in my group, if you could only have one Jet, what would it be and I can tell you since 2006 its been a Flash! Three of us still have Classic Flash models. We had a talk yesterday while flying and more talked about buying UF's. I my local aeroplane club which flys from grass and is just a std MAC, there are ten UF's.

Dave
Old 11-10-2013, 10:16 AM
  #3492  
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Good for all 10 of you Dave! Currently I'm the only one at my New York field with an Ultra Flash, but I think once I get my big-block in & begin expressing myself that will change
Old 11-10-2013, 11:19 AM
  #3493  
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Jay,

I love my Ultra Flash! I have just over 50 flights on it and I have beaten the piss out of it with my constant incompetence and it just keeps trucking along. It's the only jet I've owned which will climb in knife edge, operates in and out of my grass strip happily and just takes it when I totally cock up landing and bounce it down a tarmac runway (like I did on the first flights!). With the 180 it's fast but it's really strong and just takes it.
Old 11-10-2013, 12:23 PM
  #3494  
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lol, I hear you. I did 2 flights on mine, went through gear issues that grounded me over a month, then got it worked out & did another 5 flights & put it through its paces while setting up aerobatic mixes, then had the bright idea to put my P-100 up for sale, changed my mind & removed it from the classifieds & received a PM offering full asking price + shipping..
Oh well, grounded again, but this time it'll get a big-block P-180RX Hows your fuel burn? I plan to detune to 30lbs or so, & heard the theory of similar fuel burn due to less WOT passes then the smaller engines. I have the UAT, Main & Wing config
Jay
Old 11-10-2013, 12:32 PM
  #3495  
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I have my timer set for just over 7 mins. I fly varied throttle settings so the fuel burn isn't too bad. With the full bypass it's fun to blast in full power low level, then come off the power and see how many manouevres you can pull off before needing to apply power again - it carries energy really well when bypassed!
Old 11-10-2013, 12:34 PM
  #3496  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Bird
I have my timer set for just over 7 mins. I fly varied throttle settings so the fuel burn isn't too bad. With the full bypass it's fun to blast in full power low level, then come off the power and see how many manouevres you can pull off before needing to apply power again - it carries energy really well when bypassed!
My timer was set to 7 with the 100 also, so I'm guessing you are the same 3 tank config as I?
Old 11-10-2013, 12:41 PM
  #3497  
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Yup - standard wing / fus tank set up with a MAP high flow UAT. I used to have the timer at 7.30 but did manage to run it out of fuel when I was a bit more aggressive on the throttle
Old 11-10-2013, 12:52 PM
  #3498  
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lol, nice.. I have standard BVM "fuel tank" like on the inside of my tanks, & standard 4 & 6mm through the fuse, are you similar, or does the 180 require larger diameters, or thicker walled tygon?
Old 11-10-2013, 12:58 PM
  #3499  
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I'm using the same set up. I drilled out the hole in the felt clunks to give a bit more flow but otherwise it's all stock set up and I've (touch wood) had no fuel flow issues.
Old 11-10-2013, 02:04 PM
  #3500  
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Sweet, thanks for all the info bud!


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