C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#3477
My Feedback: (3)
How do you guys like the CARF supplied gear Festo air plumbing? I guess I just got used to using barbed fittings throughout in my previous planes and I'm worried the Festo connections won't stay together at 100psi (I meant 85psi!) Or would wear out over time.
1. Is the one way fill valve reliable? (I have only used the BVM one)
2. Any leaks with the "T" fittings. (I was once told to only use all plastic "T"s)
3. Does anyone use those 3mm couplers? (I have only used the Robart type quick disconnects)
1. Is the one way fill valve reliable? (I have only used the BVM one)
2. Any leaks with the "T" fittings. (I was once told to only use all plastic "T"s)
3. Does anyone use those 3mm couplers? (I have only used the Robart type quick disconnects)
#3478
Thread Starter
I use Festo barbed T's (quick connects just too heavy/bulky) One way valve is brilliant, use it on all my models.
Use Robart/BVM Quarter turn joiners...1st and only choice for me.
Dave
Use Robart/BVM Quarter turn joiners...1st and only choice for me.
Dave
#3483
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: holland, NETHERLANDS
Posts: 474
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I want to paint the inside of the plane where the electronics are in the nose.
Is there some kind of wax from the mold on the fiber glass there? Do i need to de-grease the inside and sand it prior to painting/spraying?
Thanks,
Ed
Is there some kind of wax from the mold on the fiber glass there? Do i need to de-grease the inside and sand it prior to painting/spraying?
Thanks,
Ed
#3484
No issue at all with mine using the full bypass and 180RX.
#3485
Thread Starter
Jay
As Birdy says we have a few flying the UF with 160-180 turbines fully byepassed and no issues. Inlets are on the small side and I wondered about putting a duct in the inlet Y and meshing it, additional air could be taken through the nose openings. Just our air temps are a lot cooler that you might see.
Ed Only the wax from the moulding process, I just wash the inside with thinners and paint the glass surface. Its so rough its not an issue with adhesion.
Dave
As Birdy says we have a few flying the UF with 160-180 turbines fully byepassed and no issues. Inlets are on the small side and I wondered about putting a duct in the inlet Y and meshing it, additional air could be taken through the nose openings. Just our air temps are a lot cooler that you might see.
Ed Only the wax from the moulding process, I just wash the inside with thinners and paint the glass surface. Its so rough its not an issue with adhesion.
Dave
#3487
My Feedback: (3)
I read a post here and also talked to someone at BITW about the CARF supplied nose wheel being too hard for good directional control. Is BVM the supplier for a softer tire? Is it much of an issue for you hard surface runway fliers? I am in California so all the runways are hard surface.
#3488
Thread Starter
I read a post here and also talked to someone at BITW about the CARF supplied nose wheel being too hard for good directional control. Is BVM the supplier for a softer tire? Is it much of an issue for you hard surface runway fliers? I am in California so all the runways are hard surface.
I've flown UF on Concrete and Tarmac runways with many differing surfaces and it steers and tracks fine. This side of the pond never heard any issues.
D
#3490
My Feedback: (57)
Posted this on another thread & figured I'd copy & paste it (because of its relevance) to this one for anyone considering a new sport jet.
IMO, If you add everything up it will be VERY hard to top the Carf Ultra Flash; Transportability (1 fuse, 1 wing, 2 bolt=beautiful thing), strength (1pc rigid wing incredibly strong), price (about middle of the road), resale value, size (about the same as BV F100) big enough to see, small enough to transport, proven reliability, flight characteristics (will go toe to toe with ANYTHING on this planet!). If you haven't tried one, it is for sure something to always have in your fleet. Can be an everyday beater, or put in a big block & bring it out when you want to express yourself with something f%$&ING ballistic!
IMO, If you add everything up it will be VERY hard to top the Carf Ultra Flash; Transportability (1 fuse, 1 wing, 2 bolt=beautiful thing), strength (1pc rigid wing incredibly strong), price (about middle of the road), resale value, size (about the same as BV F100) big enough to see, small enough to transport, proven reliability, flight characteristics (will go toe to toe with ANYTHING on this planet!). If you haven't tried one, it is for sure something to always have in your fleet. Can be an everyday beater, or put in a big block & bring it out when you want to express yourself with something f%$&ING ballistic!
#3491
Thread Starter
Yep, we had that debate many times in my group, if you could only have one Jet, what would it be and I can tell you since 2006 its been a Flash! Three of us still have Classic Flash models. We had a talk yesterday while flying and more talked about buying UF's. I my local aeroplane club which flys from grass and is just a std MAC, there are ten UF's.
Dave
Dave
#3493
Jay,
I love my Ultra Flash! I have just over 50 flights on it and I have beaten the piss out of it with my constant incompetence and it just keeps trucking along. It's the only jet I've owned which will climb in knife edge, operates in and out of my grass strip happily and just takes it when I totally cock up landing and bounce it down a tarmac runway (like I did on the first flights!). With the 180 it's fast but it's really strong and just takes it.
I love my Ultra Flash! I have just over 50 flights on it and I have beaten the piss out of it with my constant incompetence and it just keeps trucking along. It's the only jet I've owned which will climb in knife edge, operates in and out of my grass strip happily and just takes it when I totally cock up landing and bounce it down a tarmac runway (like I did on the first flights!). With the 180 it's fast but it's really strong and just takes it.
#3494
My Feedback: (57)
lol, I hear you. I did 2 flights on mine, went through gear issues that grounded me over a month, then got it worked out & did another 5 flights & put it through its paces while setting up aerobatic mixes, then had the bright idea to put my P-100 up for sale, changed my mind & removed it from the classifieds & received a PM offering full asking price + shipping..
Oh well, grounded again, but this time it'll get a big-block P-180RX Hows your fuel burn? I plan to detune to 30lbs or so, & heard the theory of similar fuel burn due to less WOT passes then the smaller engines. I have the UAT, Main & Wing config
Jay
Oh well, grounded again, but this time it'll get a big-block P-180RX Hows your fuel burn? I plan to detune to 30lbs or so, & heard the theory of similar fuel burn due to less WOT passes then the smaller engines. I have the UAT, Main & Wing config
Jay
#3495
I have my timer set for just over 7 mins. I fly varied throttle settings so the fuel burn isn't too bad. With the full bypass it's fun to blast in full power low level, then come off the power and see how many manouevres you can pull off before needing to apply power again - it carries energy really well when bypassed!
#3496
My Feedback: (57)
I have my timer set for just over 7 mins. I fly varied throttle settings so the fuel burn isn't too bad. With the full bypass it's fun to blast in full power low level, then come off the power and see how many manouevres you can pull off before needing to apply power again - it carries energy really well when bypassed!
#3497
Yup - standard wing / fus tank set up with a MAP high flow UAT. I used to have the timer at 7.30 but did manage to run it out of fuel when I was a bit more aggressive on the throttle
#3499
I'm using the same set up. I drilled out the hole in the felt clunks to give a bit more flow but otherwise it's all stock set up and I've (touch wood) had no fuel flow issues.