C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#4701
Also I found my UF did this when the oleos dipped under braking even with the heavy springs. Dave's trick of wrapping the leg and spring with electrical tape to act like a damper helped.
Malcom
Malcom
#4705
Thread Starter
Every pilot likes something different, so its impossible! Balance at 225-230 will get you close. Ensure the down elevator with flap, other than that its a guessing game.
#4707
Thread Starter
Control movements as Classic Flash manual (on CARF site) If you go +10 -12mm on aileron 30% expo and +18-21mm on elevator 45-55% expo, max rudder 20% Expo . 20mm TO flap and 85-90mm landing flap 1.5mm and 4mm down elevator with flap. I'm sure you can adjust from here. I don't like or run CROW. Some do. If you put 3-5mm CROW it has little adverse effect
My set up is more movement!
Dave
My set up is more movement!
Dave
#4708
My Feedback: (82)
Hi Dave I got a chance to check the brakes tonight and it appears that the lines do kink after the brakes are applied. I just flipped the plane over and apply some pressure on the struts and noticed that it kinks. What's the best solution to this problem. Thanks for your help in advance.
#4709
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=NICKELUP;12009857]Hi Dave I got a chance to check the brakes tonight and it appears that the lines do kink after the brakes are applied. I just flipped the plane over and apply some pressure on the struts and noticed that it kinks. What's the best solution to this problem. Thanks for your help in advance./QUOTE]
You have used Festo tube, change that for Robart black RB169B brake tube, it does not kink. I run it on the edge of the leg, so from your nipple take it out to the small gap you have between the leg cover and leg. The pivot point on the leg is where you want it to bend (or as near as you can get). Also where is your T joint? Make sure the two tubes running from that joint are exactly the same length.
Dave
You have used Festo tube, change that for Robart black RB169B brake tube, it does not kink. I run it on the edge of the leg, so from your nipple take it out to the small gap you have between the leg cover and leg. The pivot point on the leg is where you want it to bend (or as near as you can get). Also where is your T joint? Make sure the two tubes running from that joint are exactly the same length.
Dave
#4711
Thread Starter
New UF arrived today, bit of an experiment as its very difficult to spray a fade in the mould when its in a tapered stripe. Guys in the factory did well! (You can't see what you are painting till it comes from the mould)
P-140Rxi heading for this one
P-140Rxi heading for this one
#4712
Thread Starter
Will find/do a pic soon. Dave
#4713
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Hey guys. Quick question for those of you using electric gear. Are you using a separate battery to power them or are you piggy backing off of one of the other batteries in the plane?
My new Ultra Flash arrived this week and I am amazed with the plane but I am still nailing down a few decisions about the on board systems. I am using the Behotec gear and brakes and am torn between the extra weight of a dedicated battery and the security of not having the gear tied to another power system.
Thanks
Josh
My new Ultra Flash arrived this week and I am amazed with the plane but I am still nailing down a few decisions about the on board systems. I am using the Behotec gear and brakes and am torn between the extra weight of a dedicated battery and the security of not having the gear tied to another power system.
Thanks
Josh
#4714
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Wow I really like that one - combines two of the best colors...
#4715
My Feedback: (134)
I have been using Behotec electric gear and brakes on my Comp Arf Viper for a couple of seasons. Have had it set up on a dedicated 3s battery just because the C-50 gear is big and heavy. But there is really no need to. The gear literally sips electorns and is just as happy with sharing an output from one of my 2 cell LiIon flight packs. I am currently building another Flash and am using Behotec C-36 electric gear and brakes for this plane and plan to power these from a flight pack as well.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
#4718
My Feedback: (2)
Hey guys. Quick question for those of you using electric gear. Are you using a separate battery to power them or are you piggy backing off of one of the other batteries in the plane?
My new Ultra Flash arrived this week and I am amazed with the plane but I am still nailing down a few decisions about the on board systems. I am using the Behotec gear and brakes and am torn between the extra weight of a dedicated battery and the security of not having the gear tied to another power system.
Thanks
Josh
My new Ultra Flash arrived this week and I am amazed with the plane but I am still nailing down a few decisions about the on board systems. I am using the Behotec gear and brakes and am torn between the extra weight of a dedicated battery and the security of not having the gear tied to another power system.
Thanks
Josh
#4719
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I am working on assembling the stabilizer and elevator and have run into a problem. The holes in the aluminum brackets are not lining up at all with the holes in the covers or the servos. I have tried each of the four brackets in both directions and they just aren't lining up. I am running JR 8411HVs and ended up measuring the brackets to find the side that is 19mm and when I position the bracket to the servo so it is in the correct position, 1 hole is off by 1mm and the other is off by 2mm the other direction. Very frustrating. This makes it impossible for the cover to completely close. Has anyone else had this problem and short of building new brackets, have you solved it? Thanks
Josh
Josh
#4720
Thread Starter
How old is the kit? They had some cover plates a few years back where the mounting holes were off in the cover plate. Mount the brackets on the covers is the servo a snug fit in between?
Dave
Dave
#4722
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Sent to soon. I am trying it that way when I get home tonight. I had to head out but will try that tonight. I will need to drill the plate holes out just a touch to get them to move over enough to mount the brackets. If all else fails, I will cut and tap new ones but before I went to that length I wanted to see if I was missing something. Thanks
josh
josh
#4723
Thread Starter
Josh
My guess is that the bracket positions cover a few servo types and maybe don't 100% line up with the 8411, but the grommets allow for the slightly wider screw hole centres. I have a new kit here too using 8411's I'll check this one
Best Regards
Dave
My guess is that the bracket positions cover a few servo types and maybe don't 100% line up with the 8411, but the grommets allow for the slightly wider screw hole centres. I have a new kit here too using 8411's I'll check this one
Best Regards
Dave
#4724
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Sent to soon. I am trying it that way when I get home tonight. I had to head out but will try that tonight. I will need to drill the plate holes out just a touch to get them to move over enough to mount the brackets. If all else fails, I will cut and tap new ones but before I went to that length I wanted to see if I was missing something. Thanks
josh
josh
Azzam
#4725
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So after messing with these things for a couple of hours I finally got everything finished. I saw that the two sides were not the same and knowing that the thickness of the servos had to be 19mm, I found the side that was closest to that and mounted the longer side to the mounting plate. Two of the brackets mounted perfect to the plate and two did not. Fortunately the brackets that were off, were not off so much that a little creative and careful drilling couldn't solve the problem since the predrilled holes in the plate are undersized anyway. This let me enlarge the holes only slightly and I still ended up with a good solid fit when I screwed in the mounting screws.
Once all 4 brackets were screwed to the plates, I mounted the servos. Again, two brackets (not the same two ironically) the servos screwed right into with out problems. One bracket, I had to really work to use the existing hole but I managed to make it work. But the last one was hopeless. There was less than half of the hole visible through the brass eyelet. So I ended up drilling out the hole in the bracket using the smallest bit I could and then grabbed a longer 3mm bolt, an extra washer and a 3mm locknut from may collection of parts and got it done.
I am posting a few pics to you can see what the alignment looked like.
So while it wasn't perfect coming out of the box, a solution was found and only required some relatively minor modifications. Thanks for the help to everyone that responded and I am sure it won't be my last question before I am done with this build.
Josh
Once all 4 brackets were screwed to the plates, I mounted the servos. Again, two brackets (not the same two ironically) the servos screwed right into with out problems. One bracket, I had to really work to use the existing hole but I managed to make it work. But the last one was hopeless. There was less than half of the hole visible through the brass eyelet. So I ended up drilling out the hole in the bracket using the smallest bit I could and then grabbed a longer 3mm bolt, an extra washer and a 3mm locknut from may collection of parts and got it done.
I am posting a few pics to you can see what the alignment looked like.
So while it wasn't perfect coming out of the box, a solution was found and only required some relatively minor modifications. Thanks for the help to everyone that responded and I am sure it won't be my last question before I am done with this build.
Josh