Ripmax Xcalibur Sports jet
#2076
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Germany, close to Cologne
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Hi Dave, hi pylonboy,
very helpful. I have ordered the Ripmax pneumatic gear today. I will try the stock valves first. Thanks a lot for your help!
Best regards
Markus
very helpful. I have ordered the Ripmax pneumatic gear today. I will try the stock valves first. Thanks a lot for your help!
Best regards
Markus
#2079
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Germany, close to Cologne
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#2080
Thread Starter
Markus
Don't know why, there has never been a shortage of landing gear...even when we had no kits.
They are in stock in UK
Best Regards
Dave
Don't know why, there has never been a shortage of landing gear...even when we had no kits.
They are in stock in UK
Best Regards
Dave
#2081
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Cape Town South Africa
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Hi Dave. How does the Ripmax Elan compare to these jets? I love my Xcalibur, but bought an Elan also from Ripmax. Any thoughts on the kit? The hardware does not look as good as the Xcalibur range.
#2082
Thread Starter
Some people love the Elan, I didn't particularly like it, its more of a big envelope machine, great for blasting up and down a line. The positive is the range of turbines it suits, hardware from the original manufacturer was not the best, the long term aim is to have them made in the Xcalibur factory.
#2083
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Cape Town South Africa
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Thanks for the Reply Dave. Yes that is one reason I got the Elan as the Xcalibur turbine bay is a bit tight especially for my 8 and 10kg Kingtechs. Once its in, its in, but wont be possible to easily share a turbine between air frames. Keen to to still build and fly the Elan and compare it to the Xcalibur. Xclaibur I also think is much lighter so with a 8kg turbine it performs well, whereas a Elan I would think would require at least a 10kg to achieve the same vertical climb outs.
Regards
Karl
Regards
Karl
#2084
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
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Hey all. Thought I would post a few pictures of my second Xcalibur. First one had an unintentinal "landing" in a bean field last August, and have building this one slowly over the winter. Almost ready to maiden.
#2085
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Exeter, UNITED KINGDOM
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I have had a Boomerang Elan but I am now flying the Xcaliber and I can't think of any reason to choose the Elan yes it's a decent twin boomer but the Xcaliber is better, I have had about 60 flights from our bumpy grass field and the stock gear is showing no signs of wear. My power plant is a Wren 80 and it has plenty of power for short take offs and non stop vertical. There is a tendency to over power the Elan I have seen some with a 140 turbine! it wasn't designed for that, the Xcaliber is designed so that Turbines of that size won't fit although I am sure it won't stop some people from hacking it to take one - 80 or 100 is plenty of power for it.
#2086
Totally agree, on my Xcalibur I've a Wren 80DCi that's planety fo power, light enough and I do not see any particular reason to overpower it too much much over 100N, unless having a 120 and limiting maybe total thrust...
#2087
Thread Starter
Steve Johnson had a ball with his new Yellow/blue Xcalibur, P-100RX, JR 28X combo today at the JMA AGM meeting.
I also did a check flight on this previously used Xcalibur with a Wren 80
I also did a check flight on this previously used Xcalibur with a Wren 80
#2089
Thread Starter
There is no perfect match, there are even slight variations between batches of kits as the factory sources its own film (its such a big producer)
I think oracover dark red is close. people may have found the close match.
I think oracover dark red is close. people may have found the close match.
#2090
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Exeter, UNITED KINGDOM
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On my last flight of the day I thought that the elevator control felt a bit vague a bit like too much exponential, on inspection I found that the ply plate where the horn screws in was flexing, it has flown several hours before this happened and I don't think it was likely to come off, anyway I have now changed to a 3mm bolt all the way through, just something to keep an eye on.
#2091
Hey all,
sorry to be lazy but what are good rudder servos for this model?
figure standard sized ones maybe won't work?
regards,
Paul (recent acquirer of military scheme xcalibur)
sorry to be lazy but what are good rudder servos for this model?
figure standard sized ones maybe won't work?
regards,
Paul (recent acquirer of military scheme xcalibur)
#2094
Thanks guys..
Much appreciated.
Much appreciated.
#2095
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Derbyshire, UK
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Yesterday found the ultimate solution to prevent bent nose gear pins - land with the gear up!! First time in 55 flights ever had an u/c problem so no complaints. Pressure was fine. Once on a stand the retracts cycled 8x before even slowing! Investigation continues....... And certain "wise guy" witnesses to this event commented that it was my best landing yet with the Xcalibur. No damage whatsoever.
regards to all
John
regards to all
John
#2096
John,
Might be worth dropping the retracts and checking all the bolts and pivot screws. Adding a little bit of grease to the sliders and checking you have not picked up some dirt/debris in the mechanisms. Was it all the wheels or just the nose ?
Simon
Might be worth dropping the retracts and checking all the bolts and pivot screws. Adding a little bit of grease to the sliders and checking you have not picked up some dirt/debris in the mechanisms. Was it all the wheels or just the nose ?
Simon
#2097
Join Date: Sep 2013
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Since I started the comment here (Retracts on the XCalibur+) thought I would post a comment here. I have been a fan of the Pro-link series of electric retracts for years. I also had an issue with the Pro-links slightly to long for the +. I was advised by DreamWorks that my wheel wells must of been slightly off as another airframe they had the Pro Links fit just fine. It's odd that no other builder has had issues with there "off" wells using the JSM gear and now 3 others have had issues with the Pro Links in the + but that is what I was told. The solution I was advised was to grind the back side of the well off 1/8 inch. This pretty well ruins the sealed concept of the wells we all like some much. I needed up putting in a lathe and taking off 1/8 on the shoulder and shortening 1/8 inch. Fit fine now. If anyone wants an easy way to remove the spring or put back on take aluminum siding and make up shims to go on the spring. 5 shims lengthens the spring very nicely.
#2099
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Exeter, UNITED KINGDOM
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