Dr Honda

My Feedback: (4)

I wasn't sure. I know some of the big machines just move slow. As I recall... my little SL10 runs a 6000 rpm spindle, and can rapid at 1400 ipm. But, since the box is so small... I allways do a G28 before a tool change, just to make sure I have the clearance to spin the turret.

I found this on my phone, so I up loaded it. It's a production run of the DreamWorks fuel fittings.




http://youtu.be/RT6C6_S7XTA?list=UUolQNncUzg7XlXEOCrEIPOA

gonzalom

My Feedback: (1)

Nice!!!!!! about how fast I can go to with the Mori Seiki.

Gonzalo

dbsonic

My Feedback: (3)

Okay, noob question. What choice of materials to machine for say landing gear? There are several aluminum alloys and imagine you want to stay away from some kinds. I always gotten the sense that some are better than others for tapping and having durable threads that wont easily strip or deform?

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

I'm going to have to take you up on that Gonzalo!

Dr Honda

My Feedback: (4)

Generally 6061 is your best option. It is easy to machine and/or weld. It's very strong without being brittle. It can also be hardened, and freely anodizes. Anything in the 7000 series starts to be too brittle for something like landing gear. It's great for a sprocket since it's hard... but it will crack when bent. Anything lower (1100, 2000, 3000 series) is simply too soft. I used 1100 or 3001 to form fuel tanks for motorcycles.

toolmaker7341

Use 6061-T6 for landing gear. You can only bend aprox. 30-45 deg. without it breaking,more than that you have to use a radius instead of a sharp corner. Check out some commerical gears the thicker the material the bigger the rad has to be. You can heat with a torch for bending but you'll lose all your spring temper and it will be like a wet noodle

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

I don’t pay much attention to those who put down other peoples tools or choices. Each of us will acquire what we can afford and what will fit in our meager workshops. I am a toolmaker with over 40 years experience and have used very poor equipment to the most modern. A good machinist can make both work for him. The skill is in the hands and mind, the machine is nothing but a tool that makes things easier or harder. I personally know one older gentleman who uses nothing but an old Boley Jewelers Lathe and he turns out the most fantastic details you can imagine.

I personally own a Grizzly G4003G 12" x 36" Gunsmith's Lathe with Stand I purchased new and it has served me well for many years. It would not be my choice for a full fledged business but for home and under $4000 new delivered to my door with additional accessories it cannot be beat.

Do not turn your nose up at used equipment either. I purchased an old Partner knee mill with a 3 axis Miltronic’s Centurion I control and even at 30 years old it still operates great. I will be replacing the ball screws soon as they are not as smooth as I would like them to be. I made an adaptor up to hold a Colt Router and with the vacuum table which is a box with holes drilled in the top and a shop vac I can hold any thickness of wood to cut out ribs/formers etc. The only drawback is the memory is limited so long programs need to be broken down or dripped from the programming pc.

We are talking the average home workshop here so if it’s an improvement over what you have and it’s going to make your hobby more enjoyable who cares its not the latest and greatest or most expensive.

Buy what you can afford and what you can make use of. You have to use it often to learn and become good at machining. When you outgrow what you have think about upgrading. Take care of your stuff and there will be no shortage of people who will buy it when you upgrade.

I have some videos on you tube Propworn’s Channel if you’re interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-VK7rxxbjc Instead of standoffs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYVm-bBwDWE Rods for a Kinner 5 cylinder radial.

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

When you purchase machinery there are certain things that generally hold true. First is size, the bigger the machine generally the larger the tooling, faster material removal and larger the size of your project. Second is price. Accuracy and performance are directly proportionate to the cost of the machine. That being said some very nice work is regularly done by economy machines. For someone with limited space and pocket book the mill/lathe combos fit the bill. These are neither ideal mills or lathes however if your not earning a living with them they can do a very nice job indeed. I personally have tried this bench top unit and it works quite well http://www.grizzly.com/products/Comb...tachment/G0516
The Smithy was much nicer with better capacity and sturdier but was 3 times the cost.
http://www.smithy.com/graniteOVERVIEW

Someone said to avoid Grizzly well with my Grizzly lathe and antique CNC mill I make short runs and custom pieces that easily support my hobby. That’s enough for me I have a full time job that pays very well. Here are a few items I make in short batch runs.

On my Grizzly lathe cap for nitro bottle with viton o-ring and replace the yellow plastic sealing cap with the aluminium insert also with viton o-ring

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

A hot rod owner wanted custom step plates for his Studebaker hot rod with the old Studebaker logo in the middle. These are the size of a license plate and attach to the running boards. Old CNC mill. Picture of my old mill and Grizzly lathe

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

I bought the mill first and any money I made with it I set aside then purchased the lathe. From both I purchased the tig welder. Two more projects a collector ring for a radial engine and an alternator bracket for a hot rod where the alternator is between the exhaust, engine and frame rail. The wooden prototypes were used to test fit until perfect then the bracket was made and polished. I made a polishing arbour that chucks up in the lathe and is held by the tail stock and all the polishing wheels are on it. With your machines and a little imagination you can make most of your tooling.

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

Wow, all that great work seems like a dream for me to make in my garage! Wow, again!

I'm learning alright. I tried to "part" my little adapter piece I made on my HF 7x12 and ended up breaking the piece! I was parting too far from the chuck and at too high an RPM!

Two hours working on that piece, gone, because I was doing it wrong.

But I didn't fail, I learned a way that doesn't work!

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

You Tube can be your best friend before you try something new. Ones like this for Parting on a lathe. Don't be confused if there are several different ways to accomplish the same result. Find one method that works for you and the machine your working on. Some like to part from the backside with the tool facing down and the chips fall right out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZlWJ_JqQtA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thys6bqTmCc Dennis

ps2727

Lots of good advice here....
Parting can be difficult especially on large diameter material. Sometimes it's better to cut the part from the stock in the bandsaw, turn it around and machine the back of the
part to avoid deep parting.
Here are some things I've done with a 10 inch Clausing lathe (used) and manual mill.
Paul