Carf MIG-15
#301
My Feedback: (22)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Windham,
ME
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Carl read your post yesterday, as I have your same setup installed in my MIG and was in an event with the manufacturer today, I asked him the question, was told to go ahead and use it and expect no problem with the 3421 / IGyro combination, reasons I was given where ok with me so I'm going to use it as it is.
Daniel
Daniel
Thanks for the reply. I was thinking is was fine but I thought I would ask others what there thoughts were. Are you using the stock elevator setup? I re-soldered my torque links with silver solder to be safe. So far its pretty much slop free but ill test it more when I have the system powered up. If it doesn't seem good Ill change to servos mounted in the stabs.
Thanks for the info btw!
-Carl
#303
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Miami,
FL
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the reply. I was thinking is was fine but I thought I would ask others what there thoughts were. Are you using the stock elevator setup? I re-soldered my torque links with silver solder to be safe. So far its pretty much slop free but ill test it more when I have the system powered up. If it doesn't seem good Ill change to servos mounted in the stabs.
Thanks for the info btw!
-Carl
Thanks for the info btw!
-Carl
Carl I'm not using the original elevator setup, if you have a look at post #158 you will see
4-40 rod, brass tube, both silver soldered, drilled and ball link bolted.
Daniel
#304
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Namsostrondelag, NORWAY
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I too reinforced the elevator-linkage in similar way. There is a little play in the setup and I`m not too happy with that, but I`ve been reassured this will have little significance. Let`s hope this is true........
#305
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: sao paulosao paulo, BRAZIL
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
looks great Tow! congratulations!
i have started to paint too, just miss the wings now.
weather is bad and i have to paint outside, so i need to wait for the rain to stop...also, re-doing the rivets is time consuming...
i have started to paint too, just miss the wings now.
weather is bad and i have to paint outside, so i need to wait for the rain to stop...also, re-doing the rivets is time consuming...
#313
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Namsostrondelag, NORWAY
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agree - but I got warned to be careful not to over-do it. Bear in mind that practically all Migs (at least in the period 1952-1957) were delivered aluminium paint-coated, not bare metal, so the joints and fasteners in the airframe will not be as visible as one should think.
Last edited by tow; 05-02-2014 at 09:23 AM.
#315
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Miami,
FL
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tow is right , up to where I know 15's where painted out from the factory with clear coat mixed with aluminum powder 7 - 10 %, so if scale accuracy is a goal that paint look should be a way to go.
#318
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Miami,
FL
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Carl the star I downloaded from the internet, a local shop cut the mask in thin vinyl, paint is matt red and white enamel thinned down and applied with airbrush.
http://future.wikia.com/wiki/File:20...d_star.svg.png
http://future.wikia.com/wiki/File:20...d_star.svg.png
#320
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Miami,
FL
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I first assemble the fuselage find out that parts where build ok but they where slightly distort so they where gently bended with the assistance of a hair dryer until there where no spaces left and they sit flat against each other, after a few weeks they move back to where they where leaving those annoying spaces.
This is the solution I came up with, it prove strong and stable, fit the part, find the point where distortion is bigger, disassemble, fix a Kevlar control cable piece with a drop of medium cyano, make a tiny hole in a rivet opposite to it, pass the Kevlar through the hole, assemble, pull the Kevlar gently put a cyano drop when you like the fit, cut the Kevlar and it looks like this.
This is the solution I came up with, it prove strong and stable, fit the part, find the point where distortion is bigger, disassemble, fix a Kevlar control cable piece with a drop of medium cyano, make a tiny hole in a rivet opposite to it, pass the Kevlar through the hole, assemble, pull the Kevlar gently put a cyano drop when you like the fit, cut the Kevlar and it looks like this.
Last edited by leider; 05-22-2014 at 05:06 AM.
#325
The stock struts have close to no practical suspension, which I found quite disappointing considering the struts are from a well known manufacturer...
When I disassembled the strut, I found a very small spring, which by nature can never work properly. I removed it, and mounted a bigger one one the outside instead. Not very scale-like, but it works. I now get some 10-12mm suspension, compared to zero.. Full of fuel, I now have to put some force on the model to compress the springs.
Here are some picture of my L/G and cockpit/access hatch (for some reason, RCU rotates pic 1,2 and 4 by itself
When I disassembled the strut, I found a very small spring, which by nature can never work properly. I removed it, and mounted a bigger one one the outside instead. Not very scale-like, but it works. I now get some 10-12mm suspension, compared to zero.. Full of fuel, I now have to put some force on the model to compress the springs.
Here are some picture of my L/G and cockpit/access hatch (for some reason, RCU rotates pic 1,2 and 4 by itself
Last edited by kimhey; 05-22-2014 at 09:52 AM.