Skymaster plus 1:5.5 BAE Hawk
#552
I never used gyro on airplane. If the wing tip stall I would check lateral balance first. If it still stall on landing, I would want to keep the speed up a little more. I don't think the gyro will help in that case, it may make it worse. But I don't know, never experiment on it. I have a brand new cortex but didn't want to use it. It'll feel like I'm not flying the plane.
I have a JL viper; once awhile it dropped the wing on landing, but at that moment, I was about 6 inches off the ground anyway. I noticed that it only dropped the wing when I have cross wind. So far, my hawk didn't drop the wing on my yet.
May be someone with this particular of experience can chime in. Will the gyro help ?
I have a JL viper; once awhile it dropped the wing on landing, but at that moment, I was about 6 inches off the ground anyway. I noticed that it only dropped the wing when I have cross wind. So far, my hawk didn't drop the wing on my yet.
May be someone with this particular of experience can chime in. Will the gyro help ?
#553
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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A gyro will not help you to not stall the plane, in fact it may mask the onset of a stall and make things worse. A gyro will help to smooth out the aircraft reactions from wind and it may help to hold the aircraft in the last control initiated attitude.
My personal experience with gyros has been a positive one. My aircraft that have gyros are a pleasure to fly even in windy conditions. In my opinion it lessens the frustration of constantly fighting to hold the aircraft steady in windy or turbulent conditions.
My personal experience with gyros has been a positive one. My aircraft that have gyros are a pleasure to fly even in windy conditions. In my opinion it lessens the frustration of constantly fighting to hold the aircraft steady in windy or turbulent conditions.
I never used gyro on airplane. If the wing tip stall I would check lateral balance first. If it still stall on landing, I would want to keep the speed up a little more. I don't think the gyro will help in that case, it may make it worse. But I don't know, never experiment on it. I have a brand new cortex but didn't want to use it. It'll feel like I'm not flying the plane.
I have a JL viper; once awhile it dropped the wing on landing, but at that moment, I was about 6 inches off the ground anyway. I noticed that it only dropped the wing when I have cross wind. So far, my hawk didn't drop the wing on my yet.
May be someone with this particular of experience can chime in. Will the gyro help ?
I have a JL viper; once awhile it dropped the wing on landing, but at that moment, I was about 6 inches off the ground anyway. I noticed that it only dropped the wing when I have cross wind. So far, my hawk didn't drop the wing on my yet.
May be someone with this particular of experience can chime in. Will the gyro help ?
#554
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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I'm shopping retailers right now for a good deal on a Hawk Pro Plus.
Hoping to make a purchase within a few weeks.
Anyone know who owns that one above???
Love that scheme, would be nice if you could pick your own flag, USA. But that one looks really nice as is...!!!
Last edited by jetjocchris; 05-23-2016 at 04:32 PM.
#555
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: burlingtonontario, CANADA
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Couple of questions.
1- Elevator incidence relative to the wing, 2.0 to 3.0 degrees UP ?
2- Elevator to flap compensation, instructions say UP elevator ?
3- Balance at 180 mm?
Thanks
1- Elevator incidence relative to the wing, 2.0 to 3.0 degrees UP ?
2- Elevator to flap compensation, instructions say UP elevator ?
3- Balance at 180 mm?
Thanks
#559
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: burlingtonontario, CANADA
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Well I have found myself in a interesting situation that most men might dream about.
My wife thinks it is "ridiculous" to "swap engines" from one aircraft to another, she adds "what happens if you want to fly both"
After a long period of silence and my inside voice repeating "don't blow this" I now have a green light to purchase a second turbine.
The hawk was destined to have the Rabbit SP returned from my Boomerang for it's maiden flight.
So the big question now is, buy another Rabbit and eventually have two for a future A10 project or step up to a Cheetah which is a lot of motor for the Hawk but will fit numerous future projects?
P.
My wife thinks it is "ridiculous" to "swap engines" from one aircraft to another, she adds "what happens if you want to fly both"
After a long period of silence and my inside voice repeating "don't blow this" I now have a green light to purchase a second turbine.
The hawk was destined to have the Rabbit SP returned from my Boomerang for it's maiden flight.
So the big question now is, buy another Rabbit and eventually have two for a future A10 project or step up to a Cheetah which is a lot of motor for the Hawk but will fit numerous future projects?
P.
#560
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in regards to CoG. I have also previously posted where I am at which from memory is about 192mm and I feel like it could go further aft again. I'm still needing a fair bit of down elevator in inverted flight.
Which turbine to buy? Well, is the A-10 likely to be on the cards or another model? That is what should govern your decision!! I bought the M140 for my small hawk so that I could move to other models, and I'm 1/2 through repairing a large hawk I procured and now the 140 is on the small size, go figure!
thanks
dave
#562
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Don't know what the power figures are for a rabbit, but I think that the hawk would be OK with a 100 if flying off bitumen, and the 120 would be good flying off grass.
these used to fly with the old school heavy 80's. I rarely, if ever give it full throttle other than takeoff, way too over powered for scale. I went with the 140 purely because it weighs less than an 80 and had at lease the power of a 120. If jet munts made a 120, I would have bought that.
So somewhere between a 100 and a 120 is perfect in my view.
thanks,.
these used to fly with the old school heavy 80's. I rarely, if ever give it full throttle other than takeoff, way too over powered for scale. I went with the 140 purely because it weighs less than an 80 and had at lease the power of a 120. If jet munts made a 120, I would have bought that.
So somewhere between a 100 and a 120 is perfect in my view.
thanks,.
#563
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thanks ticketec,
Ok guys -I have a problem with the Hawk, I cannot get it down the runway straight.
The slightest amount of correction sends it swerving off to one side.
-positive simple linkage set up.
-no brakes dragging
-alignment seems ok
-set a curve (almost flat now) and end points on separate channel for steering.
Still impossible to handle, still wants to roll over
Any thoughts, springs in mains too soft ?
What tire pressure should I use?
Peter.
Ok guys -I have a problem with the Hawk, I cannot get it down the runway straight.
The slightest amount of correction sends it swerving off to one side.
-positive simple linkage set up.
-no brakes dragging
-alignment seems ok
-set a curve (almost flat now) and end points on separate channel for steering.
Still impossible to handle, still wants to roll over
Any thoughts, springs in mains too soft ?
What tire pressure should I use?
Peter.
Last edited by peter w h; 06-15-2016 at 12:59 AM.
#564
Hi
How are the main wheels aligned? They should have about 1° to 2° toe-in. The behaviour you describe is consistent with having toe-out. Mine has 1° toe-in and the main gear doors barely close.
Regards
Eduardo
How are the main wheels aligned? They should have about 1° to 2° toe-in. The behaviour you describe is consistent with having toe-out. Mine has 1° toe-in and the main gear doors barely close.
Regards
Eduardo
#565
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Depending on the age of your kit the spings in all the gears can be way too soft!!
Mine has the harder spring in the mains and it's pretty good, but on my first takeoff the model jumped into the air because the nose gear was way too soft. I put a piece of silicone fuel tube inside the spring to help stiffen it up and it did the job nicely.
I also run two rates for nose wheel steering. The high rates is for taxing and getting the model around, the second rate is for the takeoff run with quite reduced throws, because once she is moving at pace, it doesn't take much to get it swerving around wildly.
To be totally honest the alignment of my mains is not great but the previous owner really reefed on the screws that hold the legs on to the point where I will strip it if try any harder to loosen it so it is what it is, and it tracks nicely enough, so I would recommend start with looking at the springs.
Tire pressure is set by how much the wheel expands to size wise. have a look on the skymaster website and it give the dimensions you will need. It takes some digging around but it's there.
taking the Hawk out tomorrow for a fly!!!
Thanks
Dave
Mine has the harder spring in the mains and it's pretty good, but on my first takeoff the model jumped into the air because the nose gear was way too soft. I put a piece of silicone fuel tube inside the spring to help stiffen it up and it did the job nicely.
I also run two rates for nose wheel steering. The high rates is for taxing and getting the model around, the second rate is for the takeoff run with quite reduced throws, because once she is moving at pace, it doesn't take much to get it swerving around wildly.
To be totally honest the alignment of my mains is not great but the previous owner really reefed on the screws that hold the legs on to the point where I will strip it if try any harder to loosen it so it is what it is, and it tracks nicely enough, so I would recommend start with looking at the springs.
Tire pressure is set by how much the wheel expands to size wise. have a look on the skymaster website and it give the dimensions you will need. It takes some digging around but it's there.
taking the Hawk out tomorrow for a fly!!!
Thanks
Dave
#567
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Hi guys,
The maiden went well - only issue is getting the gear to retract up against the wind.
I have restrictors in the lines but have since opened the needle valves up completely - all now SLAMS shut with perhaps too much authority.
Please share your experiences in this matter.
Best,
Peter.
The maiden went well - only issue is getting the gear to retract up against the wind.
I have restrictors in the lines but have since opened the needle valves up completely - all now SLAMS shut with perhaps too much authority.
Please share your experiences in this matter.
Best,
Peter.
#568
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Yes....
Exactly the the same problem. I put it down to ev5u valve and though it was on its way out. Was just about to order one of the xicoy pnuematic controller to see if that would fix the problem. In the last 10 flights, only about 2 of them have had the gear retract cleanly.
also check the pivot pins in the main gear trunnions blocks. They can work their way loose over time even if locktite'd in and that can stop the gear from retracting cleanly as well.
But congratulations on the maiden!!
thanks
dave
Exactly the the same problem. I put it down to ev5u valve and though it was on its way out. Was just about to order one of the xicoy pnuematic controller to see if that would fix the problem. In the last 10 flights, only about 2 of them have had the gear retract cleanly.
also check the pivot pins in the main gear trunnions blocks. They can work their way loose over time even if locktite'd in and that can stop the gear from retracting cleanly as well.
But congratulations on the maiden!!
thanks
dave
Last edited by ticketec; 08-01-2016 at 04:29 AM.
#570
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Tried plenty of times, and clearly by my success rate suggests it's not that straight forward. By the time the main doors open and the gear starts to retract its already travelling too fast..
either way way it's a very hit and miss approach to gear retraction and it's no fun flying with the gear out the whole time... They are so much nicer to fly with the gear tucked away.
thanks
dave
either way way it's a very hit and miss approach to gear retraction and it's no fun flying with the gear out the whole time... They are so much nicer to fly with the gear tucked away.
thanks
dave
Last edited by ticketec; 08-01-2016 at 04:30 AM.
#571
My Feedback: (7)
Tried plenty of times, and clearly by my success rate suggests it's not that straight forward. By the time the main doors open and the gear starts to retract its already travelling too fast..
either way way it's a very hit and miss approach to gear retraction and it's no fun flying with the gear out the whole time... They are so much nicer to fly with the gear tucked away.
thanks
dave
either way way it's a very hit and miss approach to gear retraction and it's no fun flying with the gear out the whole time... They are so much nicer to fly with the gear tucked away.
thanks
dave
#574
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Wayyy to much. A 180 is more than enough for the next size up, and will fly the new massive one at a pinch.
the 140 I'm running is much more than needed. Lots of unnessesary weight in turbine and fuel otherwise. The smaller ones are a bit more sensitive to weight. My 140 weighs less than a K80 which is why I went with it
Thanks
dave
the 140 I'm running is much more than needed. Lots of unnessesary weight in turbine and fuel otherwise. The smaller ones are a bit more sensitive to weight. My 140 weighs less than a K80 which is why I went with it
Thanks
dave
#575
My Feedback: (33)
I have had 2 of them in the past and yes did try to fly it with a 180 dialed back. didn't slow down on landings because of too much idle thrust. I flown them with a k-100g and a Ram 1000 and that was plenty of power. it will fly well with a 80G but will use up a lot of runway on take off.