CARF CT-114 Tutor 2.6m Build thread
12-29-2015, 06:38 AM
#951
My Feedback: (3)
So, Andy Kane just quoted me $900 to ship this airframe. I've owned a number of 35%-42% airframes and that shipping rate is absurd in comparison. Is that in line with what you are paying?
I think I'd rather save that coin and drive to Florida to pick up a BVM of this or that.
I think I'd rather save that coin and drive to Florida to pick up a BVM of this or that.
That does seem pretty expensive. Even when they stiff us coming across the border with brokerage fees I have never paid that much. You told Andy that your state was in the USA didn't you? 
Shipping is a killer now even with low oil prices, makes you wonder if there isn't a little gouging going on. You can do a lot of driving for 900.00.
Shipping is a killer now even with low oil prices, makes you wonder if there isn't a little gouging going on. You can do a lot of driving for 900.00.I was interested in another Carf model and did not order it because of the gigantic shipping charges. I know that Carf no longer has a warehouse in the US and planes now either come from Germany or directly from the factory in Thailand, but I could now also order any brand like XtremeARF or Skymaster and would pay the same ridiculous amount for shipping. If Carf would reduce their prices slightly to compensate for the higher shipping charges, I would probably change my mind, but I cannot convince myself to pay up to 25% on top of a kit just to get it to my doorstep.
Thoma
Thoma
10% off (in stock planes/paint schemes) and a low flat rate shipping fee, shipped via UPS SCS from Germany.
$2511 for the plane and $219 shipping ... $2730 total delivered
3 days from Germany to Boston
9 days to clear customs at Boston
Plane is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow afternoon.
The 10% off plus low shipping charge was for CARF USA
CARF rest of world was 25% off but regular shipping fees.
02-08-2016, 02:59 AM
#952
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Hi All
Just finished and flown my CT114 and now want to detail it up a bit. I have the decal pack from Tailor Made Decals (awesome service) but need some assistance with a placement guide if anybody has one out there.
thanks
Peter
Just finished and flown my CT114 and now want to detail it up a bit. I have the decal pack from Tailor Made Decals (awesome service) but need some assistance with a placement guide if anybody has one out there.
thanks
Peter
02-08-2016, 03:53 AM
#953
http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/lu...tor_walk_3.htm
See Page1, Page 3 has a few photographs of an AETE CT-114 gate guardian.
Google CT-114 AETE
Dennis
See Page1, Page 3 has a few photographs of an AETE CT-114 gate guardian.
Google CT-114 AETE
Dennis
Last edited by DP01; 02-08-2016 at 04:35 AM.
02-08-2016, 12:43 PM
#955
Thread Starter
Increase the flap, if its floaty, its still making lift. CROW would help though, never used it, but 10mm would help get rid of some lift
Dave
Dave
02-08-2016, 04:39 PM
#958
What flap setting are you guys using? I am now at 50 degrees and she definitely does not want to come down. With other planes you can run out of elevator before touch down, but this lady can easily be stalled by flaring too much.
I also have a question regarding the aileron trim. When I look at the wing tip from the side, I see that this plane has definitely some "down" aileron when the trailing edge of the flaps and ailerons are level. Since there is no reference edge it is hard to judge, but just by looking at the seam where the two aileron halves are glued together, it definitely looks like it. When I put a ruler on the wing, I can also see the down trim in the ailerons. I never noticed it while flying, but this extra camber in the airfoil definitely creates lift and trying some crow might help with landings.
Thomas
I also have a question regarding the aileron trim. When I look at the wing tip from the side, I see that this plane has definitely some "down" aileron when the trailing edge of the flaps and ailerons are level. Since there is no reference edge it is hard to judge, but just by looking at the seam where the two aileron halves are glued together, it definitely looks like it. When I put a ruler on the wing, I can also see the down trim in the ailerons. I never noticed it while flying, but this extra camber in the airfoil definitely creates lift and trying some crow might help with landings.
Thomas
Last edited by bluelevel; 02-08-2016 at 04:42 PM.
02-08-2016, 08:26 PM
#959
The following is how I land my Tutor.
When SETTING UP to land I throttle back to 1/2 power and drop the gear followed by flaps to takeoff position. I go around the pattern once to determine that the gear is down and locked. Then as I turn downwind I go to full flaps and keep the power on. Generally the sweet spot on my bird is about 60% power to keep it flying straight and level in the pattern. As go around base leg, I slowly bring back the power and continue the turn to final. On final approach I am usually about 1/4 then once I have reached the threshold or point at which I want to touch down I come off the throttle completely and just apply a little up to flair. The bird rewards me with very nice landings every time. Keep in mind you cannot FORCE the bird on the ground or she will bounce back up. Hold the nose up a little and let her settle on her own. I will check the flap setting but I did use the recommended measurement in the manual. I suppose you could use crow and I do on many of my jets but have not found it necessary on the Tutor.
Dean W.
When SETTING UP to land I throttle back to 1/2 power and drop the gear followed by flaps to takeoff position. I go around the pattern once to determine that the gear is down and locked. Then as I turn downwind I go to full flaps and keep the power on. Generally the sweet spot on my bird is about 60% power to keep it flying straight and level in the pattern. As go around base leg, I slowly bring back the power and continue the turn to final. On final approach I am usually about 1/4 then once I have reached the threshold or point at which I want to touch down I come off the throttle completely and just apply a little up to flair. The bird rewards me with very nice landings every time. Keep in mind you cannot FORCE the bird on the ground or she will bounce back up. Hold the nose up a little and let her settle on her own. I will check the flap setting but I did use the recommended measurement in the manual. I suppose you could use crow and I do on many of my jets but have not found it necessary on the Tutor.
Dean W.
Last edited by Helijet; 02-08-2016 at 08:29 PM.
02-09-2016, 04:07 AM
#961
Thread Starter
Its common with CARF models where the flap comes up under the fuselage that it will not go fully neutral. I see this on the Hawk's also. I cleaned all the mouldings so that the flaps would go as high as possible. The ailerons are aligned with the wing seam. On mine that meant the ailerons sat slightly above the flap. This never bothered me as the flaps were always down on the grown and didn't notice in the air!
Flap wise I did increase the flap movement after the manual was finished, I changed the JR 20mm arm for a Dubro 25mm arm and got more movement. I never found crow necessary, if you look at the various videos of it flying you can see it lands fine.
Flap wise I did increase the flap movement after the manual was finished, I changed the JR 20mm arm for a Dubro 25mm arm and got more movement. I never found crow necessary, if you look at the various videos of it flying you can see it lands fine.
05-19-2016, 12:56 AM
#964
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Hi Guys, spent the last 2 days reviewing this long thread. I'm doing the build now, I'm in Dubai its hot so inside work is good.
Really appreciate all the tips in this forum, some things I would have never thought about, thanks to all.
One issue is how to lock the Beotech gear on the shaft, I have ground flat spots on the shaft but can't get the set screws tight enough to prevent them from turning. I can turn them by hand after I tighten the set screws as much as I dare.
Any ideas?
Dan
Really appreciate all the tips in this forum, some things I would have never thought about, thanks to all.
One issue is how to lock the Beotech gear on the shaft, I have ground flat spots on the shaft but can't get the set screws tight enough to prevent them from turning. I can turn them by hand after I tighten the set screws as much as I dare.
Any ideas?
Dan
Last edited by txcnguy; 05-20-2016 at 06:56 PM.
05-27-2016, 08:37 PM
#965
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One more discovery. With the Beotec eTracts the motor 1 signal controls whether the brakes will function. If in gear down and locked position the brakes get power from the controller. If gear up no power is applied even though the Projet display shows signal amount based on your channel signal.
Not in the manual, I let Beotec know. I suppose its a good feature in case you are flying with full brake signal by mistake and gear up.
Found this testing the gear separately, motor 2 brakes wouldn't work. So only Motor one controls the brakes for BOTH wheels.
Not in the manual, I let Beotec know. I suppose its a good feature in case you are flying with full brake signal by mistake and gear up.
Found this testing the gear separately, motor 2 brakes wouldn't work. So only Motor one controls the brakes for BOTH wheels.
05-29-2016, 11:44 AM
#969
Thomas
05-29-2016, 06:32 PM
#970
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Thomas.
No not yet, in build stage right now.
Thanks for sharing the experience. Are your etracts the Behotec version 1?
She'll have Unilights, all around, smoke, iGyro.
Too hot in Dubai to fly much and Ramadan is just around the corner so we all build.
Both wings are done, tail feathers done, onto nose gear and doors next.
Dan
No not yet, in build stage right now.
Thanks for sharing the experience. Are your etracts the Behotec version 1?
She'll have Unilights, all around, smoke, iGyro.
Too hot in Dubai to fly much and Ramadan is just around the corner so we all build.
Both wings are done, tail feathers done, onto nose gear and doors next.
Dan
05-30-2016, 07:01 AM
#971
Dan,
not exactly sure which version I have, but Thomas at Behotec is a very nice guy. So should you have problems with your retracts or brakes, give him a call or send him an email, probably he can exchange those parts at a small charge should there be a newer version.
Your setup sounds exactly like the description of my Tutor, she also has Unilights, smoke and a very light but scale looking weathering. I have have a PB Royal with the built-in iGyro in mine, but the Tutor is such a sweet and gentle flyer, she hardly needs the gyro to be turned on.
Ah BTW, since you have e-gears, you will most likely also have servo operated gear doors. Do yourself a favor and install the strongest servos you can find! I have tested several different servos, I am now at the third set of servos for the mains. These doors are so huge that you'll need at least 8-10kg servos to keep them shut.
The servos that are working for me are the MKS HV747 HV servos on the main gear doors (14kg - 192oz) and the MKS DS 6125 + a step down diode on the front gear doors (6kg - 80oz)
Thomas
not exactly sure which version I have, but Thomas at Behotec is a very nice guy. So should you have problems with your retracts or brakes, give him a call or send him an email, probably he can exchange those parts at a small charge should there be a newer version.
Your setup sounds exactly like the description of my Tutor, she also has Unilights, smoke and a very light but scale looking weathering. I have have a PB Royal with the built-in iGyro in mine, but the Tutor is such a sweet and gentle flyer, she hardly needs the gyro to be turned on.
Ah BTW, since you have e-gears, you will most likely also have servo operated gear doors. Do yourself a favor and install the strongest servos you can find! I have tested several different servos, I am now at the third set of servos for the mains. These doors are so huge that you'll need at least 8-10kg servos to keep them shut.
The servos that are working for me are the MKS HV747 HV servos on the main gear doors (14kg - 192oz) and the MKS DS 6125 + a step down diode on the front gear doors (6kg - 80oz)
Thomas
Last edited by bluelevel; 05-30-2016 at 07:11 AM.
05-30-2016, 08:00 AM
#972
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Thanks Thomas.
I'm going with air cylinders for the gear doors as per the plans. Hope they work ok.
I have been in contact with Thomas.
There is a newer manual out he sent me that describes the brake interlock with the gear.
I'm going with air cylinders for the gear doors as per the plans. Hope they work ok.
I have been in contact with Thomas.
There is a newer manual out he sent me that describes the brake interlock with the gear.
06-22-2016, 06:44 AM
#973
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Follow up on brakes. Got it sorted with Thomas upgraded to the newer version and now had to dial back the power to 30%.
Got a good deal from Behotec also to boot. Quite a difference you can see.
Got a good deal from Behotec also to boot. Quite a difference you can see.
