CARF CT-114 Tutor 2.6m Build thread
#926
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So, Andy Kane just quoted me $900 to ship this airframe. I've owned a number of 35%-42% airframes and that shipping rate is absurd in comparison. Is that in line with what you are paying?
I think I'd rather save that coin and drive to Florida to pick up a BVM of this or that.
I think I'd rather save that coin and drive to Florida to pick up a BVM of this or that.
#927
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That does seem pretty expensive. Even when they stiff us coming across the border with brokerage fees I have never paid that much. You told Andy that your state was in the USA didn't you? Shipping is a killer now even with low oil prices, makes you wonder if there isn't a little gouging going on. You can do a lot of driving for 900.00.
#928
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I was interested in another Carf model and did not order it because of the gigantic shipping charges. I know that Carf no longer has a warehouse in the US and planes now either come from Germany or directly from the factory in Thailand, but I could now also order any brand like XtremeARF or Skymaster and would pay the same ridiculous amount for shipping. If Carf would reduce their prices slightly to compensate for the higher shipping charges, I would probably change my mind, but I cannot convince myself to pay up to 25% on top of a kit just to get it to my doorstep.
Thoma
Thoma
#929
AKB,
you are observant, that is the Owatonna field (SMMAC club) in MN. Yes I know Dave, great guy. Have seen his A-10 fly at that field.
This is the jet I flew at the big meet there this year
you are observant, that is the Owatonna field (SMMAC club) in MN. Yes I know Dave, great guy. Have seen his A-10 fly at that field.
This is the jet I flew at the big meet there this year
#930
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Hey Guy's,
I have a relatively new CARF Tutor with about 5 flights on it so far.
I've been having issues with what seems like differential braking, to the point that the aircraft is uncontrollable towards the end of the landing roll-out. It pulls hard to the right each landing.
I've been reading your posts about the importance of toe-in on the mains; mine have been set neutral, parallel to the wing root per the instructions.
I've since set a couple of degrees of toe-in on the mains, but haven't flown the aircraft since making this change.
At this point, the braking resistance feels about the same on both main wheels throughout; 0 to 100% full brake.
Is it plausible that the 'lack' of toe-in was exacerbating, what appears to be a differential braking issue?
I'm also considering trailing links on the mains to effectively get more weight on the nose wheel; not sure I need to do this though.
Let me know what you all think.
Thanks Guy's,
Joe D.
I have a relatively new CARF Tutor with about 5 flights on it so far.
I've been having issues with what seems like differential braking, to the point that the aircraft is uncontrollable towards the end of the landing roll-out. It pulls hard to the right each landing.
I've been reading your posts about the importance of toe-in on the mains; mine have been set neutral, parallel to the wing root per the instructions.
I've since set a couple of degrees of toe-in on the mains, but haven't flown the aircraft since making this change.
At this point, the braking resistance feels about the same on both main wheels throughout; 0 to 100% full brake.
Is it plausible that the 'lack' of toe-in was exacerbating, what appears to be a differential braking issue?
I'm also considering trailing links on the mains to effectively get more weight on the nose wheel; not sure I need to do this though.
Let me know what you all think.
Thanks Guy's,
Joe D.
#931
My Feedback: (39)
Joe,
you will definitely see an improvement in tracking with the change you made. The plane will most likely be easier to control while taking off and under braking, however, what makes me wonder is your statement that the plane always pulled to the same side. This may either be because of too less toe-in on ONE SIDE or your brakes simply don't work equally. Try it with more toe-in first and make sure the amount is the same on both sides.
If the problem still persists, disassemble and clean your brakes and rims with alcohol. Should one side turn noticeably easier than the other under braking, you could also have a slightly pinched brake line or the brake lines to both wings are not the same length.
Thomas
you will definitely see an improvement in tracking with the change you made. The plane will most likely be easier to control while taking off and under braking, however, what makes me wonder is your statement that the plane always pulled to the same side. This may either be because of too less toe-in on ONE SIDE or your brakes simply don't work equally. Try it with more toe-in first and make sure the amount is the same on both sides.
If the problem still persists, disassemble and clean your brakes and rims with alcohol. Should one side turn noticeably easier than the other under braking, you could also have a slightly pinched brake line or the brake lines to both wings are not the same length.
Thomas
#933
My Feedback: (6)
Bluelevel I wonder if they are hammering you with brokerage charges and custom fees at that price. In this country we can if we arrange with the sender we can broker an overseas shipment ourselves. It usually means running around with the paper work back and forth to the customs office ourselves instead a brokerage firm that are paid to do that for you. I have done this several times myself here. If that is an option to you it might save you some money. Custom charges you are probably stuck with because that is where individual countries put their own tariffs that they choose to impose. It is hard to believe that is just all shipping in that price.
Good luck
Alan
UOTE=bluelevel;12092790]I was interested in another Carf model and did not order it because of the gigantic shipping charges. I know that Carf no longer has a warehouse in the US and planes now either come from Germany or directly from the factory in Thailand, but I could now also order any brand like XtremeARF or Skymaster and would pay the same ridiculous amount for shipping. If Carf would reduce their prices slightly to compensate for the higher shipping charges, I would probably change my mind, but I cannot convince myself to pay up to 25% on top of a kit just to get it to my doorstep.
Thoma[/QUOTE]
Good luck
Alan
UOTE=bluelevel;12092790]I was interested in another Carf model and did not order it because of the gigantic shipping charges. I know that Carf no longer has a warehouse in the US and planes now either come from Germany or directly from the factory in Thailand, but I could now also order any brand like XtremeARF or Skymaster and would pay the same ridiculous amount for shipping. If Carf would reduce their prices slightly to compensate for the higher shipping charges, I would probably change my mind, but I cannot convince myself to pay up to 25% on top of a kit just to get it to my doorstep.
Thoma[/QUOTE]
#934
Thread Starter
Hey Guy's,
I have a relatively new CARF Tutor with about 5 flights on it so far.
I've been having issues with what seems like differential braking, to the point that the aircraft is uncontrollable towards the end of the landing roll-out. It pulls hard to the right each landing.
I've been reading your posts about the importance of toe-in on the mains; mine have been set neutral, parallel to the wing root per the instructions.
I've since set a couple of degrees of toe-in on the mains, but haven't flown the aircraft since making this change.
At this point, the braking resistance feels about the same on both main wheels throughout; 0 to 100% full brake.
Is it plausible that the 'lack' of toe-in was exacerbating, what appears to be a differential braking issue?
I'm also considering trailing links on the mains to effectively get more weight on the nose wheel; not sure I need to do this though.
Let me know what you all think.
Thanks Guy's,
Joe D.
I have a relatively new CARF Tutor with about 5 flights on it so far.
I've been having issues with what seems like differential braking, to the point that the aircraft is uncontrollable towards the end of the landing roll-out. It pulls hard to the right each landing.
I've been reading your posts about the importance of toe-in on the mains; mine have been set neutral, parallel to the wing root per the instructions.
I've since set a couple of degrees of toe-in on the mains, but haven't flown the aircraft since making this change.
At this point, the braking resistance feels about the same on both main wheels throughout; 0 to 100% full brake.
Is it plausible that the 'lack' of toe-in was exacerbating, what appears to be a differential braking issue?
I'm also considering trailing links on the mains to effectively get more weight on the nose wheel; not sure I need to do this though.
Let me know what you all think.
Thanks Guy's,
Joe D.
It will make a difference, toe out does not bring the light wing down, toe in does. If you brake early, the chance of equal weight on each wheel is almost zero. The Tutor has a huge lifting wing, with big flaps.
Dave
#935
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Thomas,
I'm using the Jet-tronic low loss valve and I've inspected for kinks in the air lines etc. I haven't disassembled the brake hubs yet, but will do that if the problem persists.
Thanks for the feedback!
Joe
I'm using the Jet-tronic low loss valve and I've inspected for kinks in the air lines etc. I haven't disassembled the brake hubs yet, but will do that if the problem persists.
Thanks for the feedback!
Joe
#936
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Dave,
Good point, I didn't consider that.
Initially, I gave no thought to toe-in due to the nearly four foot wheel base. I figured ground-tracking would be the least of my worries; obviously not.
Regarding the flaps, what have you found to be the optimum full flap position; I've set mine to the recommended per the instructions.
Joe
Good point, I didn't consider that.
Initially, I gave no thought to toe-in due to the nearly four foot wheel base. I figured ground-tracking would be the least of my worries; obviously not.
Regarding the flaps, what have you found to be the optimum full flap position; I've set mine to the recommended per the instructions.
Joe
#939
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I'm considering installing Behotec trailing link struts on the Tutor mains.
Does anyone know the size / length for best-fit?
Altecare lists the following sizes: 170mm, 180mm, 188mm and 190mm.
Thanks,
Joe
Does anyone know the size / length for best-fit?
Altecare lists the following sizes: 170mm, 180mm, 188mm and 190mm.
Thanks,
Joe
#942
My Feedback: (39)
Joe, should you think about replacing the nose strut as well, you'll need the 176mm one. This is what I have in my Tutor and it has the exact same length as the stock strut. But in this case you'll need to fabricate a little wedge shaped spacer that goes underneath the front retract mounting plate, otherwise the front gear doors won't be able to close fully.
Thomas
Thomas
#943
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Thomas, good suggestion.
The stock nose strut was way too stiff IMO. I've replaced the stock spring with a lighter gauge spring, which helped, but trailing links do such a superior job dampening vs. the straight struts. I think I'll go that route.
Thanks Thomas,
Joe
The stock nose strut was way too stiff IMO. I've replaced the stock spring with a lighter gauge spring, which helped, but trailing links do such a superior job dampening vs. the straight struts. I think I'll go that route.
Thanks Thomas,
Joe
#944
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Thomas
#945
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Actually the Mains are FB155 (so 155mm) and the nose is 185mm.
Not sure how the 170 is fitting but the original set is 155 mm for the mains and 185mm for the nose.
Hope this helps
#946
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Guys the problem with the Tutor gear is 2 fold:
1- these horrid Intairco wheels, they are extremely rigid ( and very heavy) and absorb nothing and transmit all the energy to the strut and gear plate
2- The bad choice of using straight struts instead of a " trailing link type strut"
I suggest switching the struts to the Swing arm trailing link style which behave like trailing link but they keep the wheel in line with the strut so you do not have to modify the wing, and chuck these Intairco wheels away and get proper wheels with softer rubber.
There has been no end of problems with this gear and you would think CARF would have improved this by now.
1- these horrid Intairco wheels, they are extremely rigid ( and very heavy) and absorb nothing and transmit all the energy to the strut and gear plate
2- The bad choice of using straight struts instead of a " trailing link type strut"
I suggest switching the struts to the Swing arm trailing link style which behave like trailing link but they keep the wheel in line with the strut so you do not have to modify the wing, and chuck these Intairco wheels away and get proper wheels with softer rubber.
There has been no end of problems with this gear and you would think CARF would have improved this by now.
#948
My Feedback: (6)
Guys the problem with the Tutor gear is 2 fold:
1- these horrid Intairco wheels, they are extremely rigid ( and very heavy) and absorb nothing and transmit all the energy to the strut and gear plate
2- The bad choice of using straight struts instead of a " trailing link type strut"
I suggest switching the struts to the Swing arm trailing link style which behave like trailing link but they keep the wheel in line with the strut so you do not have to modify the wing, and chuck these Intairco wheels away and get proper wheels with softer rubber.
There has been no end of problems with this gear and you would think CARF would have improved this by now.
1- these horrid Intairco wheels, they are extremely rigid ( and very heavy) and absorb nothing and transmit all the energy to the strut and gear plate
2- The bad choice of using straight struts instead of a " trailing link type strut"
I suggest switching the struts to the Swing arm trailing link style which behave like trailing link but they keep the wheel in line with the strut so you do not have to modify the wing, and chuck these Intairco wheels away and get proper wheels with softer rubber.
There has been no end of problems with this gear and you would think CARF would have improved this by now.
Is there any replacement tires we could straight swap out on the existing wheels that would be softer or is there a way we could soften the tires we have already.
Thanks
Alan
#950
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SAP_2000,
What were the results of replacing the stock Intairco main wheels & brakes with the Skymaster (105mm) F-16 wheels & brakes?
I've got a SM Hawk with similar wheels & brake and they are outstanding!
Thanks,
Joe
What were the results of replacing the stock Intairco main wheels & brakes with the Skymaster (105mm) F-16 wheels & brakes?
I've got a SM Hawk with similar wheels & brake and they are outstanding!
Thanks,
Joe