1ne8ighty2wo

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If you're looking to sell, you should probably make an ad in the classifieds section. And $200 is probably a bit high for a used car that costs $260 new. I read somewhere that a rule of thumb is to cut the price of a new one in half and go from there. So you're looking closer to the $130 - $150 range

1slowrc

yea thats why i put obo  ill be happy if i get 120

1ne8ighty2wo

My Feedback: (2)

Haha okay, just letting you know so you don't get dissapointed

manuel frias

today i pulled out my big block firestorm and while i was driving it i blew out my differential gears i looked in my parts box and i only had the hpi nrs4 diff gears. i tried to put them in my firestorm and to my surprise they fit well except i had to take 2 spacers out. i just put it back together and drove a couple of tanks and to my surprise my top end was noticeably faster. has any body else put different diff gears in the firestorms?

nitro-rob

Changing the internal differential gears shouldn't have an effect on top end speed. It will have an effect on how the differential transfers power between the wheels. When the truck is going straight those gears aren't even turning.

manuel frias

ow ok my transmision of my car must of bin scewed up for a wile then and when i cleaned it up and re oiled it must of made a difrence.

Blueroost40

Hey guys im new to this thread and have a quick question. When I turn on my car and my remote I get this weird twictching in the steering and was wondering if you guys knew anythnig about this.

motorhead91

could be a bad receiver

1ne8ighty2wo

My Feedback: (2)

is it major twitching, or just slight movement? like is it enough to turn the wheels, on or off the ground

nitro-rob

A little twitching is common for am and fm radio setups. Unless it effects things I wouldn't worry.

Blueroost40

The twitching doesnt turn the wheels on or off the ground. The steering mechanism that sticks out through the chassis at the front of the car moves a small amount and wondered if it would have an effect on my car. Another question, are you able to sand blast the paint off the muffler and if so would i need to plug all the holes before doing so?

rassnik

hi folks,
after upgrading my E-Firestorm with the Flux motor set i damaged a front suspension arm twice and now the main spur gear

www.hpieurope.com/piw.php

the motor moved a bit forward and crushed it within the next minute.

is there a chance to get this part made of metal? i cant find anything on the net.

thanks for any upcoming help.

cu,
rassnik

manuel frias

heres some pictures of my firestorm. what do you guys think?

embesh

I think its awsome. What kinda shocks you got in the back there. I think im gona get a steering servo for mine. I hate the steering. Cant even turn around in road. What kinnda servo should I get?

manuel frias

i have integy piggy back shocks the same ones that fit on the traxxas rustler. im not sure about the servo thoe i still have my stock servo and it turns the truck preaty well when the front wheels are on the ground wich is not very often . you can tell by looking at my engine head that this moter has way to much power for the truck. i need to gear my truck way up what have the other guys done who run big block for gearing could i have a detailed discription of the parts i need to buy or modificaations i need to do to get the revo gear spur gear working.

nitro-rob

I havn't been on for a while, the winter weather has me not thinking too much of RC.

Manuel - see p. 178 and the discussion around there for a 1M gearing setup. The truck looks good.

Embesh, the steering should be sharp. Is your steering servo night tight? Is the D/R knob on the radio all the way clockwise?

Rassnik, the e-firestorm thread on RCUniverse is a better place for that answer.

Blueroost, the pipe can be sanded to a polish. Don't worry about plugging it, just sand the hell out of it, use metal polishing compound to get it shiny and then clean it very well by running soapy water through it and blowing the inside out with compressed air after. The minor twitching you have with steering isn't a problem and could be from minor interference that is characteristic to the area you are riding in. There are areas my friends and I drive that have problems with their AM radios.

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

Embesh it sounds like the servo saver is loose. But just about any servo will work. These trucks are light so it is easy to turn. Manuel I have a extra 36 tooth revo gear and the bearing for it if you need it. You will need a axial 20t cb. Just grind down your pressure plate and lock it all together. Slipper clutches are only supposed to slip landing from a jump while you are still on the gas anyways.

embesh

The knob is turned all the way clockwise. Also when I steer all the way right and hold it, it stops and then goes a little more. No range at all. Terrible. LOL. also seems like the break adjustment really doesnt respond to adjusting very well

nitro-rob

It definitely sounds like the servo saver is loose, unless it is frozen with loctite it will loosen within minutes of driving.

The brakes also should be decent. Do you have the arm that the steering rod connects to on the transmission tight and are the pressure plates tight enough that they are just disengaged when the brake is disengaged?
There are a lot of points on the brake linkage that can contribute to bad braking and you should check all of them. Is the throttle/brake servo horn centered so that you have proper travel in the forward and backward direction? Check the trim settings on the throttle/brake servo to make sure they are set right. If its all the way to one side you are likely not centred.

embesh

Ill take a look. Is there a picture of what all of the linkage looks like anyware on the internet?

nitro-rob

Maybe, but the manual is pretty good, too. The best thing to do is follow the manual and also just look at it and see why it isn't biting into the brake disk enough.

embesh

should I have the trim in the middle? my battery pack needs charge. I need to do this with the truck on right?

nitro-rob

Definitely on. Take the throttle servo horn off, turn the electronics on. Set the trim to the middle and attach the servo horn. The arm that pulls the throttle on the carb should be parallel to the length of the chassis. In this position the carb and brake need to be adjusted on their respective 'rods or wires' or whatever they are called accordingly. The brake should be adjusted to be almost engagine. Tighten the bolts on the brake pressure pads evenly and adjust where the 'rod' attaches to the brake arm on the transmission. You should be able to minimize the servo travel to begin to engage the brakes. The carburetor 'rod' can be adjusted by moving the metal collar that holds the tension spring in place.

I hope this helps, its hard to describe. Look at step 5, page 10 in the manual and page 23

The servo saver nut is part number 86905 on page 37

embesh

I believe my linkage in the steering servo is off too. When I first bought the truck the steering was off and I messed with the linkage. Got it to turn evenly but not enought I guess.

Blueroost40

Anyone have a solution to this problem. I prime my motor. I pull the start and the motor starts. I take the igniter out and it dies everytime. WHAT IS WRONG!? It is -5 outside, Could that be part of the issue? please someone help me