-=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
07-13-2009, 06:02 PM
#4676
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Hey guys..
I noticed the advert on the forum for the Losi Speed NT and checked out their webpage to see what that's all about
Sweet truck overall but what really made me interested were the 2.8" wheels and tyres.
Those wheels should be kickass if fitted on the Firestorm.. anyone knows what type of connection they use and if there are adapters available to fit them on the firestorm ?
On another note: My OS .18 TZ arrived... guess I'll have some work to do in order to get it fitted on the car....Maybe I'll post some pictures later this week if everything goes according to plan.
Cheers
I noticed the advert on the forum for the Losi Speed NT and checked out their webpage to see what that's all about
Sweet truck overall but what really made me interested were the 2.8" wheels and tyres.
Those wheels should be kickass if fitted on the Firestorm.. anyone knows what type of connection they use and if there are adapters available to fit them on the firestorm ?
On another note: My OS .18 TZ arrived... guess I'll have some work to do in order to get it fitted on the car....Maybe I'll post some pictures later this week if everything goes according to plan.
Cheers
07-13-2009, 09:49 PM
#4677
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Hey guys so i was driving my firestorm and when i was driving it all of a sudden got really loud so i checked the muffler and it had come loose so i tightened it all up and its not starting. when i just push the car its like heirs some restrictions like the brakes are activated but their not and it makes a weird clicking sound i don't know if i broke something in m clutch but please help.
Thanks
Thanks
07-13-2009, 10:28 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
It sounds like the spring that holds the two clutch shoes broke.
Pull out the spur gear then unscrew the clutchbell and check the spring out.
You can verify the clutch by spinning the spur gear by hand and if it fells like something is scratching and you hear a noise inside the clutch bell then it's the clutch.
Since this is a common (but minor) problem with the Firestorm and most of us encountered it, I tend to believe that this is what's bothering you too.
Get a savage 3 shoe clutch assembly, complete with flywheel, shoes, springs and collet, fit it on the engine just like your standard clutch system and you're ready to go.
I had this problem too and like most other people here resorted to this solution. It's rock solid.
Since you had your header loose, check out the header gasket to see if it's still in one piece and fit a new one if not then threadlock the screws that hold down the header and tighten them up.
Good luck and always have the manual at hand to double check what you're doing.
Cheers.
Pull out the spur gear then unscrew the clutchbell and check the spring out.
You can verify the clutch by spinning the spur gear by hand and if it fells like something is scratching and you hear a noise inside the clutch bell then it's the clutch.
Since this is a common (but minor) problem with the Firestorm and most of us encountered it, I tend to believe that this is what's bothering you too.
Get a savage 3 shoe clutch assembly, complete with flywheel, shoes, springs and collet, fit it on the engine just like your standard clutch system and you're ready to go.
I had this problem too and like most other people here resorted to this solution. It's rock solid.
Since you had your header loose, check out the header gasket to see if it's still in one piece and fit a new one if not then threadlock the screws that hold down the header and tighten them up.
Good luck and always have the manual at hand to double check what you're doing.
Cheers.
07-13-2009, 10:39 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Here are some photos of the throttle linkage and exhaust linkage. I use a pretty stiff throttle return spring and wanted strong braking so a high torque MG servo was used. Just waiting for the aluminum rear hubs and A-arm mounts and its done.
07-13-2009, 11:19 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Cool setup NITRO-ROB !! I really like it. Not only is it a BIG Block but it's alsobased on an OS engine and it farts through a Buku pipe. It should be ferociously powerful.
I'll have to go pick up my new OS .18 TZ from the shop. They brought me the threaded shaft version and a pilot shaft adapter from HPI.
Can't wait to get it and try to figure out how on earth will I fit the flywheel on that threaded shaft.
For me the tinkering is just beginning but I'm looking forward to finishing the whole thing. The .18 TZ should be as powerful as some big block engines out there so I'm confident it will be a fun car to drive afterwards.
I'll have to go pick up my new OS .18 TZ from the shop. They brought me the threaded shaft version and a pilot shaft adapter from HPI.
Can't wait to get it and try to figure out how on earth will I fit the flywheel on that threaded shaft.
For me the tinkering is just beginning but I'm looking forward to finishing the whole thing. The .18 TZ should be as powerful as some big block engines out there so I'm confident it will be a fun car to drive afterwards.
07-14-2009, 10:06 AM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Will keep you guys updated on my progress with getting the .18 TZ in the car.
I'm not sure whether I should open up the diff and shim it or just put some heavier grease in it.
I still have to find out a suitable header for the engine. I guess I'll get a regular 180 degrees one and cut it to fit my truck.
Looking forward to getting it on the road.
I'm not sure whether I should open up the diff and shim it or just put some heavier grease in it.
I still have to find out a suitable header for the engine. I guess I'll get a regular 180 degrees one and cut it to fit my truck.
Looking forward to getting it on the road.
07-14-2009, 10:20 AM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
I would shim it. The differential comes pretty loose out of the box. Keep us updated wipeout. Question: are you a Romanian citizen or just living there?
07-14-2009, 06:39 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
NITRO-ROB : I'll see what shims i need to find and take care of the diff. What would be the danger of running the diff as it is ? Shave the gears maybe? Or simply break them if the power applied is too big? I am asking this because, as ridiculous as it seems, I may have a hard time finding the shims themselves. Are there HPI spare parts or just plain shims that I can find somewhere else ?
To answer your question : I am a Romanian citizen, was born and raised here.
To answer your question : I am a Romanian citizen, was born and raised here.
07-14-2009, 09:29 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
so my firestorm arrived in the mail today, and i gotta say, im impressed. the truck itself is very well built and the extra parts/tools/documentation that comes with it is more than i expected. even got a dvd. it was fairly easy to put together, except for the part where i put rechargeable batteries in the receiver and i dont think it liked that. i spent about 15m tracing wires and making sure everything looked good. turned out it was just the batteries, was fine after that. im guessing something was up with my rechargeables or it just wont take those batteries.
i got the chance to start breaking the engine in, and so far all i did was run through two tanks of gas at idle. there wasnt alot of smoke though, but there was a fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe so i assume i was running rich enough? also, when i turned it on for the first time, the throttle trim was set a bit too high and it was revving a bit at the start. will that effect anything? im assuming not but just making sure.
lastly, the BDC was a lot easier to judge than i had expected, especially once i got to playing around with it a bit. i just found that when the piston got to the top of the sleeve, it was very hard to turn the flywheel. im assuming this is normal because it is tapered at the top? also, does it matter which direction u spin the flywheel to get the piston to BDC?
all in all it was a good first day with it, and im really stoked to get it broken in. im gonna take my time with it, and hopefully get to do some real driving over the weekend. any other help you guys could offer would be awesome, thanks again
i got the chance to start breaking the engine in, and so far all i did was run through two tanks of gas at idle. there wasnt alot of smoke though, but there was a fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe so i assume i was running rich enough? also, when i turned it on for the first time, the throttle trim was set a bit too high and it was revving a bit at the start. will that effect anything? im assuming not but just making sure.
lastly, the BDC was a lot easier to judge than i had expected, especially once i got to playing around with it a bit. i just found that when the piston got to the top of the sleeve, it was very hard to turn the flywheel. im assuming this is normal because it is tapered at the top? also, does it matter which direction u spin the flywheel to get the piston to BDC?
all in all it was a good first day with it, and im really stoked to get it broken in. im gonna take my time with it, and hopefully get to do some real driving over the weekend. any other help you guys could offer would be awesome, thanks again
07-14-2009, 10:07 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
ORIGINAL: wipeout2097
NITRO-ROB : I'll see what shims i need to find and take care of the diff. What would be the danger of running the diff as it is ? Shave the gears maybe? Or simply break them if the power applied is too big? I am asking this because, as ridiculous as it seems, I may have a hard time finding the shims themselves. Are there HPI spare parts or just plain shims that I can find somewhere else ?
To answer your question : I am a Romanian citizen, was born and raised here.
NITRO-ROB : I'll see what shims i need to find and take care of the diff. What would be the danger of running the diff as it is ? Shave the gears maybe? Or simply break them if the power applied is too big? I am asking this because, as ridiculous as it seems, I may have a hard time finding the shims themselves. Are there HPI spare parts or just plain shims that I can find somewhere else ?
To answer your question : I am a Romanian citizen, was born and raised here.
I don't like driving on asphalt very much. Dirt is my area and tonight the grass in the park was too long so I ran in a parking lot and hit a small depression at full speed and the truck did end over ends forever. We paced our the approximate distance and it was about 30 paces. You know its a long crash when your buddy has time to say 'holy crap, its still crashing' before it stops. The only damage was a scratch on the head (Newera roll cage isn't sufficient protection for a big block), a rear ball end came off and I snapped a rear shock shaft right above the threads. The wounded truck laid there with the engine running afterwards. I managed to find the dogbone in the dark. Those things have gone flying about 20 times the past two years and I still have the originals.... I wanted an excuse to buy CVD's.
07-14-2009, 10:10 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
ORIGINAL: hollow_point
so my firestorm arrived in the mail today, and i gotta say, im impressed. the truck itself is very well built and the extra parts/tools/documentation that comes with it is more than i expected. even got a dvd. it was fairly easy to put together, except for the part where i put rechargeable batteries in the receiver and i dont think it liked that. i spent about 15m tracing wires and making sure everything looked good. turned out it was just the batteries, was fine after that. im guessing something was up with my rechargeables or it just wont take those batteries.
i got the chance to start breaking the engine in, and so far all i did was run through two tanks of gas at idle. there wasnt alot of smoke though, but there was a fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe so i assume i was running rich enough? also, when i turned it on for the first time, the throttle trim was set a bit too high and it was revving a bit at the start. will that effect anything? im assuming not but just making sure.
lastly, the BDC was a lot easier to judge than i had expected, especially once i got to playing around with it a bit. i just found that when the piston got to the top of the sleeve, it was very hard to turn the flywheel. im assuming this is normal because it is tapered at the top? also, does it matter which direction u spin the flywheel to get the piston to BDC?
all in all it was a good first day with it, and im really stoked to get it broken in. im gonna take my time with it, and hopefully get to do some real driving over the weekend. any other help you guys could offer would be awesome, thanks again
so my firestorm arrived in the mail today, and i gotta say, im impressed. the truck itself is very well built and the extra parts/tools/documentation that comes with it is more than i expected. even got a dvd. it was fairly easy to put together, except for the part where i put rechargeable batteries in the receiver and i dont think it liked that. i spent about 15m tracing wires and making sure everything looked good. turned out it was just the batteries, was fine after that. im guessing something was up with my rechargeables or it just wont take those batteries.
i got the chance to start breaking the engine in, and so far all i did was run through two tanks of gas at idle. there wasnt alot of smoke though, but there was a fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe so i assume i was running rich enough? also, when i turned it on for the first time, the throttle trim was set a bit too high and it was revving a bit at the start. will that effect anything? im assuming not but just making sure.
lastly, the BDC was a lot easier to judge than i had expected, especially once i got to playing around with it a bit. i just found that when the piston got to the top of the sleeve, it was very hard to turn the flywheel. im assuming this is normal because it is tapered at the top? also, does it matter which direction u spin the flywheel to get the piston to BDC?
all in all it was a good first day with it, and im really stoked to get it broken in. im gonna take my time with it, and hopefully get to do some real driving over the weekend. any other help you guys could offer would be awesome, thanks again
Just take it easy for the first half gallon before really ripping it and you will be fine.
07-14-2009, 11:13 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
I need some advice with tuning. When I run 25% nitro in almost all my RC's it is difficult to get the engine temperature over 200F and usually around 160-170 tops. If I lean further the engine bogs signaling its too lean. Of course the engine is running much more rich with the 25% and the needles are always set richer than factory in this situation. I am running OS8, R5 and A5 plugs. The only truck that doesn't have this problem is my Savage with a K4.6. The OS.21VG has the problem. I quit running 25 in my small blocks.
07-15-2009, 01:07 AM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
I wish that I could help you out but I have never had any kind of tuning problem that is related to the higher nitro content. 30 percent is what I have always used. You have to change plugs according to the temp outside though. Up to 60 is hot plug 60 to 80 med 80+ is cold. This is how I do it and always have had good luck with keeping the right temp with the best performance. These are just a base line for me though if you run harder or put around you can adjust plugs accordingly. This isn't quite the answer you wanted but it helps my truck run at peak power. How is the DX3s you got, hope you dont have range issues too. I hear that not everybody has it but there is alot of complaints about people that do. Good luck man
07-15-2009, 07:09 AM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
thanks for the response nitro, it was very helpful. i still have the pull start on my firestorm, so it doesnt matter which direction i turn the flywheel in to get it to bdc right? there is a third dial on the far left of my remote (opposite of the throttle and steering trim), that says D.R. on it. anyone know what this controls?
also, i got the hpi pro glow plug when i ordered my truck, and it doesnt seem to be working properly. i have charged it all night and the needle on the voltmeter still hasnt moved at all. seems like it isnt charged, and the needle is still in the red zone. anyone with this glow charger seen this before? thanks again for all the help guys, much appreciated
also, i got the hpi pro glow plug when i ordered my truck, and it doesnt seem to be working properly. i have charged it all night and the needle on the voltmeter still hasnt moved at all. seems like it isnt charged, and the needle is still in the red zone. anyone with this glow charger seen this before? thanks again for all the help guys, much appreciated
07-15-2009, 07:43 AM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
ORIGINAL: nitro-rob
I need some advice with tuning. When I run 25% nitro in almost all my RC's it is difficult to get the engine temperature over 200F and usually around 160-170 tops. If I lean further the engine bogs signaling its too lean. Of course the engine is running much more rich with the 25% and the needles are always set richer than factory in this situation. I am running OS8, R5 and A5 plugs. The only truck that doesn't have this problem is my Savage with a K4.6. The OS.21VG has the problem. I quit running 25 in my small blocks.
I need some advice with tuning. When I run 25% nitro in almost all my RC's it is difficult to get the engine temperature over 200F and usually around 160-170 tops. If I lean further the engine bogs signaling its too lean. Of course the engine is running much more rich with the 25% and the needles are always set richer than factory in this situation. I am running OS8, R5 and A5 plugs. The only truck that doesn't have this problem is my Savage with a K4.6. The OS.21VG has the problem. I quit running 25 in my small blocks.
I suppose that different engines react in different ways with different fuels and nitro percentage.
Maybe experimenting is the best way to go.
Keep us informed, I'm curious how it goes.
My OS .18 TZ arrived and I like it, looks and feels like high quality stuff; nicely packaged too.
Gotta get a 90 degrees header (God knows where from in this country), a bigger air filter, shims and heavier grease for the diff then I'm ready to start the assembly process.
Guess it will take another week or so until I get it done and ready to roll.
Here's a picture of the little bugger with the pilot shaft adapter from HPI
07-15-2009, 11:54 AM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Hmm thats rather strange... in the G3 i'm running 30% and it has a temp of about 220-240 at the glow plug... i'm not sure maybe i'm to lean but it doesnt lean bog and there is a pretty hefty smoke trail. It doesn't pull wheelies anymore but I think i have to lean it just a tad or lean the lsn a tad.
07-15-2009, 12:20 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
@hollow point the voltmeter only works when its connected to the glow plug in your truck i have the same remote and i dont know what the d/r knob does i think its used with another hpi truck
07-15-2009, 12:25 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
cool thanks man. ill try and read up on that remote and figure out what its even there for. maybe says something in the manual
07-15-2009, 03:12 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
ORIGINAL: hollow_point
cool thanks man. ill try and read up on that remote and figure out what its even there for. maybe says something in the manual
cool thanks man. ill try and read up on that remote and figure out what its even there for. maybe says something in the manual
You can set it up depending on your driving style and track layout. I personally leave it to the max most of the time.
07-15-2009, 08:16 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
ORIGINAL: wipeout2097
HOLLOW_POINT : Dual Rate basically increases or decreases the amount of steering angle. Hold the steering wheel maximum to the left or right and with the D/R knob at max then decrease the D/R to see the effect it has on the steering angle.
You can set it up depending on your driving style and track layout. I personally leave it to the max most of the time.
ORIGINAL: hollow_point
cool thanks man. ill try and read up on that remote and figure out what its even there for. maybe says something in the manual
cool thanks man. ill try and read up on that remote and figure out what its even there for. maybe says something in the manual
You can set it up depending on your driving style and track layout. I personally leave it to the max most of the time.
that being said i finally got out driving it today, and i absolutely loved it. felt like a kid again, lol. the acceleration on this thing is very smooth, and the overall handling is crazy. i went through a cpl tanks using the heat cycle break in method, but didnt go past 1/4 throttle much. next time i go out i will take it to about 1/2 throttle. i noticed though after running for about 3-5 minutes, it only got up to about 155 -160 F. is this normal for the first run or should it be higher (i also did two full tanks on idle yesterday)? today i just basically ran it 5 times, at 3-5 minutes each, letting it cool about 10-15m between runs. i also made sure the piston was at bdc after each run. it was very easy to start after the first couple times, and even got it on the first pull once or twice. very impressed with the pull start and the overall truck in general. i dont even think the parking lot i was in was big enough for 3/4 thottle yet alone full, so it should be very fun to see what this thing can do once broken in and tuned. cant wait
07-15-2009, 08:17 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
I can't go any leaner and the engine is still cold. Adding nitro increases the oxygen content making the engine run leaner which produces more horsepower. Leaner burning engines burn colder and that is the source of my problem. I think a solution is to run a medium plug, this will advance the timing hopefully giving me more bang and making it burn hotter. I will try a medium plug.
Do you have to run 25 or 30 richer than the factory settings? It makes sense since more fuel is needed to richen the leaner conditions but I would feel better if others have to do that.
Do you have to run 25 or 30 richer than the factory settings? It makes sense since more fuel is needed to richen the leaner conditions but I would feel better if others have to do that.
07-15-2009, 08:32 PM
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
I figured out what triggered my crash last night. The Buku pipe wasn't set up properly. I knew I needed to put a softer spring in it but forgot to bring the kit with me to the park and was too lazy to go back for it. Having too stiff a spring makes the pipe stay short and optimizes the engine for high RPM. When I hit the throttle the truck wasn't that impressive until it was at about 80% full speed then the engine came on like a rocket (sounded like a hundred pigs being slaughtered) and did a hard wheelie on an uneven part of the ground. I think all four wheels went off the ground and it was on the wheelie bar for a split second and when it came down the wheels were spinning unevenly and then the show started.
07-15-2009, 08:47 PM
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