dannthenitroman

leave it in the oven on full for 10 or 15 mins then very quickly smack it out with a blunt instrument. and with the diff, it will not melt if it doesnt slip. so what i said is correct for most surfaces as loose as possible where the diff isnt slipping AND the slipper slips before the diff.

Dann

sfleuriet

Does anybody use that diff spring?? I realized I didn't have one, so I ordered one a few weeks ago. Tried to put it on, but there was no way it would go on - the screw was nowhere near long enough!

dannthenitroman

yeh everyone does lol the screw will just keep getting loose if u dont.

Dann

sfleuriet

Okay.. well how on earth do you put it on? I tried, but the threads on the screw just wouldn't reach out the other end of the spring to go into the wing nut thing. And I'm using CVD's, so do I really need it? I was told I don't.

danimal1965

Hey Dann. thanks for the info on the bearings. I didn't say you were wrong, just wanted them to be carefull when adjusting the diff. The manual says 1/8 of a turn. I rebuilt a diff and didn't go back to re-tighten the diff bolt after a tank and melted the center or the diff gear on the next tank. Much better to loosen the slipper(cheaper). Later. Dan

danimal1965

Hey Pilotwings. How long is you're diff bolt? part#6575 Mines about 2.5 cm or 15/16" long. Later. Dan

sfleuriet

I remember when I last took it apart, I layed the bolt right on the drawing in the instructions. The picture said 1:1, and it was exactly the same size. Maybe there's something in there that should be... I might look at it, but it'll be a while - I've got a bumper to fix on my real truck first

dannthenitroman

just put it were it goes in the manual and push the screw and the wing nut bit in together very hard and turn it will go together and the diff will not keep coming loose.

Dann

sfleuriet

Okay I'll try that the next time I look at it.

The only other problem I keep having is breaking axle pins. I've broken a total of 6 axle pins in the very short time I've had this truck already. They don't just come out, they break into multiple pieces! Are there any stronger ones I can get?

dannthenitroman

do u mean in cvd's? if you do then buy some allen keys that are the same size and dremel then into short lengths and use them ( they are ultra hardened steel) or use the pins from a servo case ( holds the gears) if you have some trashed ones lieing around.

Dann

hanney

My Feedback: (1)

im doing a little of both "racing and bashing"

gkcx

I've lost pins but never broken one. Maybe it's the wheels your using. I would imagine that if there is to much play in the wheel slot where the pin goes that you would break pins. Thats just a guess though.

By the way thanks for all the help guys. This is a great website. Everybody is super cool and knowledgeable. I've raced for years and have been out of the hobby for a few years now so I'm a little rusty. But with your help it's all coming back now. Opening day is April 1st here. Cant wait.

Oh and from what I remember. A tight diff is better than a loose one. Use the slipper and a mip 4n1 for traction problems. I couldnt get my truck to idle without creeping forward until I installed a 4n1 clutch. After I installed the 4n1 I could actually blip the throttle a bit and the truck wouldnt move. Great for the lemans style starts in off road racing. I used to have to have somebody hold the truck with the rear wheels off the ground until the race started.

sfleuriet

Yeah it's the axle pins on the CVD's I guess - the ones the wheels come in contact with. I usually have the wheels on there pretty tight, and I don't think there's much play between them. I think they just break when I'm bashing and the truck gets stuck in something and I keep throttling it to try and get it out. I'll just buy a whole bunch of spares

avg_joe

I think gkcx was referring to the size of the slots in the wheels, not the tightness(word??)of the wheel nut. If the slots in the wheel/inserts are reamed wide, then the axle will spin in the hub a little bit over, and over...then snap goes the pins.
The pins are a weak point in the drivetrain for a reason. First...They are cheap, buy a bunch to have on hand. Second...They are easy to get at to fix...if your engine idled really well, you could almost do it without shutting it off. Third...They are probably engineered to a certain shear strength to protect the inner tranny gears from excessive stress that would destroy them.(making 'modified' pins made from stronger material ill-advised, unless you have re-inforced the rest of the drivetrain appropriatley) Fourth...There are probably others, but that is all I could make up on short notice

sfleuriet

Okay all that sounds logical. I'll need some new HPI hub adapters anyways, so I might find that it fixes the problem for the one set of wheels/tires I use for bashing. I'm going to just buy a bunch of spare axle pins, and hopefully I'll be set for a while.

dannthenitroman

i meant the cvd drive pin not the axle pin, the cvd drive pin can NEVER be too strong but yes the axle pin is designed weak, look at how its not even a full solid pin.

Dann

avg_joe

Yup, I completely agree. Making the CVD pin out of a harder material makes good sense. Making it out of a hex driver might even give the set screw a better bite.

sfleuriet

I'm beginning to think I have the diff screw too tight when this happens.. I'll work on that as soon as I can afford spending money on RC again. I've got a dang truck that needs body work..

mynesmotorsports

Im sure this has been coverd numerous times but how do you start an O.S. Motor with a cordless drill? Im sick of using a starter box!!!!!! also what is the stock clutch bell and spur gear on an RC-10? I bought mine used and it has and 18t clutch bell and a 64 tooth spur gear. I stripped the teeth off the spur gear this weekend and was wondering if anyone can tell me why or how that could happen????? I wasent being very hard on it (I dident think I was anyway)

Thanks

sfleuriet

With a cordless drill there's a few ways, but a [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSN77&P=ML]Yank Eliminator[/link] is probably the cheapest and easiest to use.

I'm almost positive the stock spur gear is 66 teeth. You probably didn't have the gear mesh set correctly, which caused it to strip the teeth.

gkcx

I have 3 Gt's and I want to make the RX batteries interchangeable. Anybody have any opinions on using a deans connector for the rx battery and the lead that goes to the RX. The little futaba plugs are so tiny and flimsy.

gkcx

jpg

ASSOCIATED_DRIVER

I use a 13mm socket with extension and the oneway bearing inside attached to my drill. Which is basically a yank eliminator but wont cost as much. (just make sure you put the bearing correctly)

danimal1965

Hey. A pic of home made roto start. http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...%20RC%20Stuff/ Later. Dan.[8D] Hit slideshow to see my track and gt.

avg_joe

True the connectors are little and flimsy, but they don't have to handle a large current load. If you want to change them to make it easier to connect and disconnect, then it's a great idea. If you are trying to make it more efficent, then I think you aren't going to see much improvement.