ORIGINAL: pilotwings119

I just still need someone to help me find the perfect place to set my diff screw at. I don't have a diff spring, and I'm fine w/o it, so I'm guessing it needs to be a little tighter than it would with the spring.. I used to have it really tight where the differential wouldn't actually "diff" and the wheels would never turn the opposite direction, but I think having it too tight put too much stress on the RRP diff gear (stripped partially, unuseable). So I'll try to go a little looser, but that'll sacrifice some speed and I LOVED how good the acceleration was when I had it real tight.. I guess I'll just do trial and error unless someone has some tips - anyone?

ORIGINAL: gkcx

I contacted associated on this. I have 3 GT's. When you turn the wheel and hold the spur gear the wheels should turn in opposite directions. Without holding the spur gear they should turn in the same direction.

ORIGINAL: J_Bone

Sounds like it needs a new glow plug or even old/bad fuel.

ORIGINAL: JimmySpencer 2
Thanks J Bone I think the fuel was bought in 2004 LOL,So that will make a difference?well you are never to old to lean something.

ORIGINAL: pilotwings119

Okay I printed out those posts, so I'll try to get it set like that today. But if I don't like the decreased torque/acceleration, I'll just risk it and have it real tight. And I think the reason my diff spring WILL NOT go in (screw never reaches the wingnut threads) is because the wingnut is an aftermarket aluminum one - So I'll try the plastic stock one and hope it works.

ORIGINAL: pilotwings119

I was FINALLY able to get the diff spring in today, but it didn't help much. I had to take out those 6 balls and 1 washer that sit on the end of the screw (head end) inside the right outdrive and put the stock plastic T-nut back in, and the screw finally engaged with the T-nut. The screw kept coming loose though all day.. I constantly had to stop and tighten it. But about an hour ago I put a bunch of threadlock on the end of the screw and inside the T-nut, so hopefully it'll dry and work better from now on. If not, I don't know what I'll do.. probably just cry. I'm hoping to try and race for the first time tomorrow or next week.

I had some odd and frustrating problems today. While I was at the track, a couple rod ends and thin nuts kept coming out on my hard noobish landings. After threadlocking most of them, it seemed to do the trick. Next I went over to the elementary school playground to do some dirt pile jumping where I had more problems.. Along with the diff screw problem (kept coming loose), I had two other problems. First, the throttle servo went completely dead out of nowhere. So I had to replace that with my spare Futaba S3003, and I was back in business. Then, I had my first runaway. The battery plug came out on a hard landing, and it just took off. LUCKILY, it was only going about 1/4th throttle, so I was able to run and catch up to it pretty fast.

I hope tomorrow goes better!

ORIGINAL: pilotwings119

Well it's impossible to make the spring fit inside there with those washers and balls in. And I did leave ONE washer (had to so the head wouldn't just fall in), and put some black grease on it. Seems fine.. might just need more locktight and then just let it sit overnight. I'll probably try to run it again tomorrow if I have time, but I've got tons of stuff to do tomorrow so it might just wait till Sunday.

ORIGINAL: pilotwings119

Well it's impossible to make the spring fit inside there with those washers and balls in. And I did leave ONE washer (had to so the head wouldn't just fall in), and put some black grease on it. Seems fine.. might just need more locktight and then just let it sit overnight. I'll probably try to run it again tomorrow if I have time, but I've got tons of stuff to do tomorrow so it might just wait till Sunday.

ORIGINAL: Nitro Flash

I don't know if I'm reading this right but the diff spring goes under the plastic "T" nut on the opposite side from 2 washers and 6 balls. Also when you assemble the transmission the adjustment screw for the diff should be on the same side as the spur gear. If it is on the other side the diff adjustment screw will loosen off every run. No loctite should be required. Get your manual out and start from scratch.

ORIGINAL: brimo

So what happens if you spin one wheel and the other doesn't spint at all... if you hold the spur gear they spin in opposite directions. diff too loose?

I took out 1 washer and the 6 balls.

ORIGINAL: gordondude24


If you do not have the washers and the six balls on there your diff WILL loosenup every time you run it. Just get a longer screw!

ORIGINAL: pilotwings119

Where exactly would I get a longer screw? And how on earth could 6 balls just sitting there prevent it from coming loose? [&:]

ORIGINAL: pilotwings119

I don't understand how rebuilding would do anything.. I just did that! Took everything apart inside the tranny case. And I found yet another problem today - the tranny-end of my "driver side" CVD can't push inside the outdrive all the way, thus making the springs lopsided. The CVD can't go in because of the added length of the diff spring. That definitely needs to be fixed... all this crap is so screwed up, and it all looks exactly like the manual says it should!! [>:][]

ORIGINAL: brimo

So I'm running a .18 cv-rx in my 10gt i was wondering if you guys could tell me what the manufacture's mixture setting should be at... I know that the high speed needle is at 2 turns out... is the mixture needle the same?