Axial SCX 10 Jeep Kit
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Axial SCX 10 Jeep Kit
i'm looking at an Axial SCX 10 Jeep Rubicon Kit. I already have a cr-01. if anybody has experience with both--would the axial have a tighter turning radius? is the axial reliable--talking about driveshafts breaking and whatnot? because it looks tempting for 225 at tower. thank you.
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Im in the same boat, although I haven't seen the kit for that cheap at tower, best price ive seen on the kit is $330. Im trying to decide between the RTR version and the Kit. What are the main differences? I like modeling and would no doubt have a good time putting the kit together and learning more about how it runs and appreciate it more than the RTR, but is it worth it? How much more would it cost to get it running with comparable equipment than the RTR?
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the sale is over, unfortunately. the kit has some upgrades over the rtr, you can see on the axial site. if you don't have a radio maybe the rtr is good for you. usually it's cheaper to go rtr than build up a kit unless you have motors and/or escs/receivers/servos lying around.... it takes a while to accumulate them.
#4
as for its durability of the driveshafts as its not meant to go over 8mph yes they are durable.
There are shafts off the wraith that are made for 13-20mph, but the SCX would handle like complete crap at that point.
Kit or RTR hard call
SCX kits usually contain(well was tru for the honcho in comparison) an unpainted shell(so you can paint it how you want it as a clear body is like $40 alone), extra light buckets with mounts, and I think better shocks (not 100% sure on this one).
RTR if you don't care about the above and don't want to get your own electronics, or sit there to build it.
In my case I had all the electronics laying around, and wanted to make it waterproof as well as do modifications from the get go (like modding a water proof RX box to fit where the stock one should go)
There are shafts off the wraith that are made for 13-20mph, but the SCX would handle like complete crap at that point.
Kit or RTR hard call
SCX kits usually contain(well was tru for the honcho in comparison) an unpainted shell(so you can paint it how you want it as a clear body is like $40 alone), extra light buckets with mounts, and I think better shocks (not 100% sure on this one).
RTR if you don't care about the above and don't want to get your own electronics, or sit there to build it.
In my case I had all the electronics laying around, and wanted to make it waterproof as well as do modifications from the get go (like modding a water proof RX box to fit where the stock one should go)
#7
Well I used a Traxxas XL-5 ESC, Traxxas 2075 servo (I had it laying around there are better waterproof servos by other manufacturers) Traxxas Waterproof receiver box off of a slash(? not 100% sure as its been awhile).
I had to drill holes into the RX box to mount it with the stock mounts in the stock RX box's position, BUT before I put the screws in I used some gasket maker, and put that in the screw holes for when I put the screws in it would be air tight, and then after that I went and put some silicone sealant over the screws to make 100% sure it wouldn't leak (I had some from a fish tank sitting around).
Outside that I assembled it like normal. I had issues fitting the XL-5 ESC in the place they recommended the ESC to be put so I took a piece of scrap plexi glass, and made a little tray to put on the side(there were 2 screw holes for some reason not stated in the manual I used)and mounted my ESC there it can't be seen with the body on so it worked out
Just note that if you get it wet you will have to hose every bearing, and piece of metal down with a penetrating oil like WD40. I only did the waterproofing as I had the stuff laying around, and one of the places I was planning to use it (never actually used it there though as it changed since I saw it prior) was near water, and it potentially could a got submerged if it slipped.
Now waterproofing the stock electronics. Motor if brushed its ok as is
ESC you will need liquid electrical tape. There are PLENTY of guides on waterproofing ESC's on this site alone. The receiver just use a box like I did. I would have to look up the particular part number if you want.
I had to drill holes into the RX box to mount it with the stock mounts in the stock RX box's position, BUT before I put the screws in I used some gasket maker, and put that in the screw holes for when I put the screws in it would be air tight, and then after that I went and put some silicone sealant over the screws to make 100% sure it wouldn't leak (I had some from a fish tank sitting around).
Outside that I assembled it like normal. I had issues fitting the XL-5 ESC in the place they recommended the ESC to be put so I took a piece of scrap plexi glass, and made a little tray to put on the side(there were 2 screw holes for some reason not stated in the manual I used)and mounted my ESC there it can't be seen with the body on so it worked out
Just note that if you get it wet you will have to hose every bearing, and piece of metal down with a penetrating oil like WD40. I only did the waterproofing as I had the stuff laying around, and one of the places I was planning to use it (never actually used it there though as it changed since I saw it prior) was near water, and it potentially could a got submerged if it slipped.
Now waterproofing the stock electronics. Motor if brushed its ok as is
ESC you will need liquid electrical tape. There are PLENTY of guides on waterproofing ESC's on this site alone. The receiver just use a box like I did. I would have to look up the particular part number if you want.
Last edited by SyCo_VeNoM; 12-10-2013 at 08:51 AM.
#9
Oh Man U won't be disappointed I've got the sxc10 honcho and love it.
Personally I'd recommend sticking with the stock AE-2 ESC it's made by Castle creations and can be programmed via there USB cable...
why... It has brake drag
but anyway I highly, highly, highly recommend watching this video... Its full of great information
http://youtu.be/SzmK_tvbejE
Personally I'd recommend sticking with the stock AE-2 ESC it's made by Castle creations and can be programmed via there USB cable...
why... It has brake drag
but anyway I highly, highly, highly recommend watching this video... Its full of great information
http://youtu.be/SzmK_tvbejE
#10
Speaking from experience, eventually the drive shafts will twist like a twizzler...... When they do I recommend MiP brand shafts, won't twist or break a shaft again. Also look at re-gearing, the stock motor won't last long, and when that goes, look into a Holmes Hobbies they make really good motors. Just my 2c. Also you can make your own links out of (all thread) and sheath with aluminum tubing..... It will save you some $ instead of buying links
Cheers,
Wade
Cheers,
Wade
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Just got my scx 10 have added lights and aluminum stering links and knukles on stering its a blast so far next upgrade will be aluminum links front and rear the added weight seems to help alot when crawling
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Hi, I've had my SCX 10 for a couple of years now and have had no trouble at all. I've abused it at the beach in deep sand and run outside in the cold. I've also tried a few local courses and spent quite some time just working on technique with it, but my main goal was to turn out a descent looking scale model. I really liked the Pro-Line Jeep body line and went with the Commanche painting it metallic charcoal.