foodstick

Jeffee, paint it a close green , and weather the HE double hockey sticks out of it until you can't tell the basecolor

Heaven knows those planes were probably only in the original color for a week or two. the fading, dirt and oils had to really change them. I don't know why they didn't take more digital color pics of them on their smart phones..... I think I read once that those planes were so frail if they sat outside uncared for in 2 months they were trash...

BobH

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Considering the planes likely didn't survive combat for more than a month or so being robust wasn't much of a concern lol

jtisch

Olive Green, Olive Brown, Olive Drab, Day Old Guacamole are just names. If you really want to be accurate you need a color reference number. Even then, with WWI aircraft and especially Central Powers aircraft, there is not 100% agreement even among the experts.

J

jtisch

While "wastage" rates could reach as high as 100% a month during intense periods of fighting,this was rare and average rates were much, much lower. Keep in mind also the "wastage" counts not only for planes destroyed but also for planes that could be repaired, but not at the field level.

j

foodstick

I come back here and wow the conversation took a turn ! hahahah

I was trying to say if they could rot apart in 8 weeks.. just think how much the colors could have varied in the same time span :P


I am telling you guys these are the EXACT lozenge colors I swear !





My thread PROVES it hahahahahha

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...eathering.html

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I will share what the Air and Space restoration facility used when they refurbished their Albatross DV.
The plane is an original. When the covering was removed from the ailerons additional fabric was wrapped around the metal structure under the top covering.
This fabric was for the most part protected from the effects of weathering.
It is that fabric that was used to create the dyes for the restoration fabric.
So one can say that they have the most original colored Lozenge fabric.

BobH

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I was in the restoration facility before the plane was shown to the public. It was sitting in a room all by itself. I walked into the room and there it sat.. it was Magnificent!
Looked like a fine piece of furniture with the beautiful wood work.
I didn't have a camera with me . what a suckmo!!!

foodstick

I think one of the interesting aspects of the lozenge camo is how similar it looks to large digital PIXELS. Which I believe some of the military are going to now on uniforms...

FokkerD7

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can I ask what engine your using? what about a reduction drive and what prop you thinking.

foodstick

Fokker D7 I am not sure if you were asking me on the motor? I have a 3W twin 78 for my tripe. I have a G38 reduction on a 1/3 Pup which I do love.
There are videos of a 1/3 triplanes posted on you tube that show both 80 sized twins, and the reduction setup.

I am unsure on the prop size on the 78 twin at the moment,I don't recall the prop recommendations .. probably in the 26/10 area?

I was surprised how well the prototype flew on a g62 (on youtube)

I am doing a straying from the plans my 1/3 DR1 thread build on rcscalebuilder....

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Well, I have a KCS 62cc to put in mine. And it better fly on that, as this is the only motor I can use. That means it's the only one I have. But it swings a 24 x 10 prop at 6500 to 7000 rpm without any problem so it should be just fine.I am not at all worried about the color of the camo stripes on my DRI. It will be the color I have in the bucket. And it will look fan-freaky-tastic in the air. Just don't look too close while its on the ground. On to the body build up. The landing gear really look nice. I just have to decide on a set of wheels. That's a whole 'nother kettle of fish!

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Well, after sorting out the parts for the middle wing saddle area, I put it together. The parts were all there, but the size and the alignment notches for the runners were way off. Not a big deal, the parts all get covered by thin plywood, so you will never see the mess I made of it. But the more I build this kit, the more I wish it was 1/3 scale DVII. I love the step that tells you to use the angle keeping device to set the two arches. But gives no directions or blueprint reference on how to build it. This is not a newbies kit. LOL But we knew that going into it didn't we? Oh well. Just keep swimming, just keep swimming.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Something really strange just happened. When I set the middle and bottom wing on the airframe to get them all aligned, everything lined up perfect. No adjustments at all. I measured everything three times and still did not trust it. I took it all apart and reassembled it then made the measurements again. Still fit perfect. Bolted everything together and measured again, still perfect. I am the worst at getting the two side built the same and getting a square fuselage is almost impossible for me. This kit build had so many issues up to this point that I was ready to do some major adjusting to the wings. But it was not needed at all. I am in SHOCK! It might just fly after all. I am looking at the "crutch" for the upper wing. It looks like building a train tressel or something like that. Oh well.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

OK, its a lot taller than I thought it would be. The train tressel was not as big a pain as I thought it would be. But when I went to add the "preshaped rear wire cover" I shook my head. It was another part that was not in this kit. I thought I might be required to make the part, but it is listed as a 1/4 x 13 inch preshaped piece. And it can't be balsa as it would not hold up to any stress. Or is it balsa and I have to make it myself? Any others out there that have made it this far in their builds? What did you do for this part? It is the block that holds the rear wires for the upper wing in place. My instruction book is full of hand written notes and corrections. Like in step one of the top wing mounting instructions, it tells you to mark and drill the 2 plates that hold the top of the cabanes together with one size hole. And then in another step about half way thru the top wing instructions it says to mark and drill the plates with a different size bit. My head hurts.

FokkerD7

My Feedback: (5)

jeffEE something that helps me when trying to figure what type of wood is required is to study the plans. Different wood has grain and is or should be illustrated on the plans. Great news on everything lining up. That's a great feeling and satisfaction to know you can do it. Keep plugin away this to shall fly and one to be proud of.

foodstick

Here is what I think you are looking for...



The notches aren't in the end when you get it.. but its a wedged piece of bass wood similar to a piece of aileron stock .. with square edges front and back.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Yep, that's what thought it should look like. Nothing like that in my kit. I built a part out of balsa and made it by laminating 4 layers. It came out very stiff. It should hold up for the building stage, and I will get a hard wood part made later. This weeks building will be slow as I am getting my Twin Cities Auction items ready. The auction is sort of the start of the flying season for me. Gets the year off to a nice start, talking to others I have not seen for the past few months.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Gloom, despair and agony on me. Deep dark depression, excessive misery. If it weren't for bad luck, Id have no luck at all. Gloom, despair, agony on me. (from HEE HAW, the TV show)
The KCS 62 motor that I was going to use will not fit. It has a muffler that wraps around from the side exhaust to the back. And the expansion chamber causes the motor to sit way too far forward. The prop would be almost 3 inches in front of the cowl. And I guess if I really didn't care how goofy this thing looked I could go with that. But I think that unless I find a muffler that I can use to make it a side exhaust, I will need to find a different power source. Or I could mount it far enough back to make the prop sit in the correct place, but the muffler exhaust would have to go right thru the landing front gear block. Not a good thing.

foodstick

What about sinking the firewall a ways, turning the motor 90 degrees or so a shoot the exhaust out somewhere that there is no interference?

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

To clear the landing gear block, I would have to move the motor back about 3 inches. That is good for the placement of the prop in regards to the cowl. But the pipes would exit thru the bottom of the aircraft, right in front of the bottom wing. That would look silly, yes? And a sideways mount would have the pipes sticking out the left or right side of the cowl. Again, not the best look for a DRI. But thanks for thinking of different ways to look at the problem.

foodstick

OK, I am gonna say it.."You didn't hold the motor up there when mounting the cowl !



Maybe you can get a muffler with the down tube on the front of the can, instead of the back?

Also you know there is that round tube that comes out the sides of a DR1 fuse.. I think they are intakes, but you could use one as exhaust.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

The idea of running the exhaust thru the carb inlet is interesting. I think cooling a motor that far back inside the airframe might be a challenge. I have not hard mounted the firewall or the cowl yet. That is a mistake I made many many airplanes ago. It was while trying to get things lined up that I found this latest problem. I think it's find a different muffler or swap the motor. Too bad, I really like this KCS 62.

foodstick

Yeah with a cowl that big... using a rear carb motor is the hardest way possible to do it

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Well this problem was not that hard to overcome. Local hobby shop (Warehouse Hobby) had a muffler that fit and is a side exit. So on with the build. I think I have to take the mandatory "cowl and wings on" picture. I will skip the making the motor sound when its together. But I wish I had the wheels. Oh well, a set of blocks will have to do for now. Any problems with the covering of the mid wing center section?

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

It's a start. Long way to go still. But there is time. Still a lot of snow on the ground.