Scale Modifications to the 1/3 Scale Balsa USA Sopwith Pup
#51
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Well, I am clearly anal. I wasn't happy with the gauge faces so I did some research and fixed the tachometer and the airspeed indicator faces. The altimeter didn't change. Here are the new faces:
These are my models that I used to update the faces.
These are my models that I used to update the faces.
Last edited by AndyF; 11-26-2014 at 08:17 PM.
#53
Thread Starter
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Hi Bob,
Thanks, Feel free to use them if you want to. You can scale them in Photoshop or I can do it for you. I'm working on the compass right now, I'm turning it out of brass and that's a learning curve for me, so I haven't gotten to the cowl yet. Once I completely finish the cockpit, Will move to the tail. Once I have that finished I'll move forward and work on the landing gear and after that, I'll do cabane struts and rigging. I probably won't get to the cowl until much later in the project.
Have you seen this thread by Jez Harris? http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/...p?th=92742&p=1 He built a Mick Reeves Pup that is now hanging in a museum for the next year and a half. I got a lot of inspiration from him from this forum. On this page he worked on his cowl and you can get some great ideas from him here. http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/...?th=92742&p=12
Andy
Thanks, Feel free to use them if you want to. You can scale them in Photoshop or I can do it for you. I'm working on the compass right now, I'm turning it out of brass and that's a learning curve for me, so I haven't gotten to the cowl yet. Once I completely finish the cockpit, Will move to the tail. Once I have that finished I'll move forward and work on the landing gear and after that, I'll do cabane struts and rigging. I probably won't get to the cowl until much later in the project.
Have you seen this thread by Jez Harris? http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/...p?th=92742&p=1 He built a Mick Reeves Pup that is now hanging in a museum for the next year and a half. I got a lot of inspiration from him from this forum. On this page he worked on his cowl and you can get some great ideas from him here. http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/...?th=92742&p=12
Andy
Last edited by AndyF; 11-26-2014 at 08:28 PM.
#54
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Bob,
I wanted to let you know that I just got my clear casting resin and some transparent amber coloring to make the oil sight glass and the fuel sight glass. I'm thinking about using a piece of plastic aquarium tubing to to make the bank indicator. If I can find a large enough diameter tube I'm thinking about putting a BB in it and filling the tube with resin, sealing the ends, bending it to the appropriate arc, and letting it cure. I'll post pictures once I get around to doing that.
Andy
I wanted to let you know that I just got my clear casting resin and some transparent amber coloring to make the oil sight glass and the fuel sight glass. I'm thinking about using a piece of plastic aquarium tubing to to make the bank indicator. If I can find a large enough diameter tube I'm thinking about putting a BB in it and filling the tube with resin, sealing the ends, bending it to the appropriate arc, and letting it cure. I'll post pictures once I get around to doing that.
Andy
#55
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Progress on the new bezels, the compass mounting ring, and the panel.
Created the calibration knob on the lathe and drilled a hole in it to accept a 2-56 hex bolt and then glued it in and glued it to the bezel. Tomorrow after Turkey, I will prime and paint the bezels.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
Andy
Created the calibration knob on the lathe and drilled a hole in it to accept a 2-56 hex bolt and then glued it in and glued it to the bezel. Tomorrow after Turkey, I will prime and paint the bezels.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
Andy
#56
My Feedback: (2)
Andy, good luck with the tubing. Maybe you can find something suitable in a size that works. If now you have the fall back position that I explained earlier.
Question, you don't happen to know the width of the cowl reinforcement ring do you?
That's an area I'm stuck on at the moment.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Question, you don't happen to know the width of the cowl reinforcement ring do you?
That's an area I'm stuck on at the moment.
Happy Thanksgiving!
#61
Join Date: Apr 2006
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This is really fine work. Do you plan on making the controls move by servo? I may come to see the maiden flight. BTW, a slight poll. Other than the Eindecker, which BUSA 1/4 scale kit would you say is the best for a first time giant scale builder/flyer?
#62
Thread Starter
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Thank you. I am planning to use servos to move the controls which will ultimately control the control surfaces. The answer to that question, really depends on your skill level, your interest, and how far you want to go to customize your plane. If you have the skill you could build any of them. I have always drooled over the 1/3 scale J3 Cub because It is relatively simple inside the cockpit so you could go a long way in getting the details right. The way I look at, it the more complex the airplane the harder it is to get the scale details right. I have a friend building a B-17 with an 11' wingspan and there is just no way you could put the level of detail in a plane like that as I can in the Pup. One of the reasons I like the pup is because it is relatively simple. there just isn't a lot of stuff in the cockpit. Now on the other hand, the rigging has a fair amount of detail and it does take some imagination to get it right.
It ultimately comes down to what you like. My other favorite airplane is the Cessna 182 and I have a Wendell Hostetler set of plans and I had a company laser cut a kit for me. Eventually I will build it (It has a 10' wingspan.)
Andy
PS: As far as the maiden flight, I have no Idea when that will be but I have no problem if you want to make the trip to Fort Wayne to see it.
Last edited by AndyF; 11-27-2014 at 12:26 PM.
#63
Thread Starter
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Bob,
Here are the Replicraft drawings. The drawings say that the reinforcement ring is 1" wide with a 1" piece extending toward the engine. One inch in 1/3 scale works out to .333" or approximately 11/32". But I don't think it looks right that small which is why I've also attached the pictures. I think the minimum width for me is going to be about a 1/2" or maybe 7/16" but I have decided yet.
Here are some cowl pictures from the Betty for reference.
Andy
Here are the Replicraft drawings. The drawings say that the reinforcement ring is 1" wide with a 1" piece extending toward the engine. One inch in 1/3 scale works out to .333" or approximately 11/32". But I don't think it looks right that small which is why I've also attached the pictures. I think the minimum width for me is going to be about a 1/2" or maybe 7/16" but I have decided yet.
Here are some cowl pictures from the Betty for reference.
Andy
#65
Thread Starter
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Got a chance to finish up the bezels yesterday. I primed them with self etching primer, then painted them semi-gloss black.
I also spend some time on the lathe and turned the compass bezels out of brass. I was surprised how much weight it has. I'm going to turn the compass from the same material.
Here is the finished results. The gauges are ready to be assembled. I think the compass bezel turned out well, I just have to drill the face to accept the screws.
I also spend some time on the lathe and turned the compass bezels out of brass. I was surprised how much weight it has. I'm going to turn the compass from the same material.
Here is the finished results. The gauges are ready to be assembled. I think the compass bezel turned out well, I just have to drill the face to accept the screws.
#67
Andy,
Again fantastic work. You have inspired myself to go and buy a small metal lathe. I have always wanted one, however, always continued to put it off.
My ¼" scale instrument panel is no way as nice as yours, however, here is my quick replica. I wanted to make the center instrument out of a real compass so when I move the tail back and forth I could see which way is North. It can be rotated on it's center axis. I just used some artistic license.
Check out my build thread and shoot me some pointer on anything.
Sopwith Scout "Pup" 1/4 scale Balsa USA
Thanks,
Again fantastic work. You have inspired myself to go and buy a small metal lathe. I have always wanted one, however, always continued to put it off.
My ¼" scale instrument panel is no way as nice as yours, however, here is my quick replica. I wanted to make the center instrument out of a real compass so when I move the tail back and forth I could see which way is North. It can be rotated on it's center axis. I just used some artistic license.
Check out my build thread and shoot me some pointer on anything.
Sopwith Scout "Pup" 1/4 scale Balsa USA
Thanks,
#68
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (2)
Very nice MRadu. It is definitely harder to really go scale on 1/4 scale because the parts are so small. I like your compass. I just finished turning the compass housing out of aluminum and I was trying to figure out how to put a working compass in side it. I still have to attach the mounting brackets and paint it.
What lathe are you going to get? I have a Taig and I really like it.
Andy
What lathe are you going to get? I have a Taig and I really like it.
Andy
#69
Thanks Andy,
One of the main reason for holding off acquiring a lathe is exactly your question. Which one to buy? I'll look into Taig lathes. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Michael
One of the main reason for holding off acquiring a lathe is exactly your question. Which one to buy? I'll look into Taig lathes. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Michael
#70
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Michael,
I've done a lot of research on lathes. The two top micro lathes are the Taig and the Sherline. The Sherline is a little higher priced but ultimately I think the Taig is better in terms of accessories.
Taig is made in Arizona if I remember correctly. The Sherline is made in the US but I'm not sure where. Sherline is more expensive.
Taig - http://www.taigtools.com/mlathe.html Taig has many dealers around the country. I'm dealing with a guy in New Jersey BB6Corp Phil Hembrough 732-295-2376 he is a Taig dealer and he makes all kinds of accessories for Taig and Sherline lathes. He also does custom machine work if you want something you can't make yourself. I bought my X-Axis powerfeed from him. It is far superior to the one Taig offers. If you are interested call him and tell him I told you to call. He sells some of his stuff on eBay but I buy from him directly and I get better deals that way.
Here is a decent priced on eBay for a new one purchase a year ago and never used. You could make him an offer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taig-Micro-L...item566ddfb7fa
This is an older used one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taig-4500-Mi...item418c4c2814
Here is one of Phil's setup for CNC capability it is the complete unit and the power feeds: http://www.ebay.com/itm/taig-lathe-C...item2346b46d4d
Sherline - http://www.sherline.com/packages.htm
Here is a new Sherline: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-Mod...item3a83a55802
Here is another new one with more stuff: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-400...item3ccfa523b8
Here is a used one with some accessories for a decent price: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-met...item2c928bbae9
This will give you some ideas of what's out there. You might find something locally. You can check to see if there are any machinists clubs in your area.
I built a new base for my Taig lathe and added the powerfeed for the X-Axis. It really makes my long cuts very nice. I might add his Y-Axis (short axis) powerfeed in the future which would make my lathe CNC capable at that point.
Andy
I've done a lot of research on lathes. The two top micro lathes are the Taig and the Sherline. The Sherline is a little higher priced but ultimately I think the Taig is better in terms of accessories.
Taig is made in Arizona if I remember correctly. The Sherline is made in the US but I'm not sure where. Sherline is more expensive.
Taig - http://www.taigtools.com/mlathe.html Taig has many dealers around the country. I'm dealing with a guy in New Jersey BB6Corp Phil Hembrough 732-295-2376 he is a Taig dealer and he makes all kinds of accessories for Taig and Sherline lathes. He also does custom machine work if you want something you can't make yourself. I bought my X-Axis powerfeed from him. It is far superior to the one Taig offers. If you are interested call him and tell him I told you to call. He sells some of his stuff on eBay but I buy from him directly and I get better deals that way.
Here is a decent priced on eBay for a new one purchase a year ago and never used. You could make him an offer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taig-Micro-L...item566ddfb7fa
This is an older used one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taig-4500-Mi...item418c4c2814
Here is one of Phil's setup for CNC capability it is the complete unit and the power feeds: http://www.ebay.com/itm/taig-lathe-C...item2346b46d4d
Sherline - http://www.sherline.com/packages.htm
Here is a new Sherline: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-Mod...item3a83a55802
Here is another new one with more stuff: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-400...item3ccfa523b8
Here is a used one with some accessories for a decent price: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-met...item2c928bbae9
This will give you some ideas of what's out there. You might find something locally. You can check to see if there are any machinists clubs in your area.
I built a new base for my Taig lathe and added the powerfeed for the X-Axis. It really makes my long cuts very nice. I might add his Y-Axis (short axis) powerfeed in the future which would make my lathe CNC capable at that point.
Andy
Last edited by AndyF; 12-12-2014 at 06:20 AM.
#71
Andy,
All that info is great. Thank you very much. I'm going to get one and I want it now. However, I'll have to wait until after the holidays.
Im very excited.
Thanks again,
Michael
All that info is great. Thank you very much. I'm going to get one and I want it now. However, I'll have to wait until after the holidays.
Im very excited.
Thanks again,
Michael
#72
My Feedback: (2)
Michael,
I have the Sherline lathe. It's very good for what it does.. I bought mine from a friend several years ago.
My Main complaint is that its small. You can't make parts that are larger because they wont fit the jaws and the "swing over". that's the space between the jaw center and the lathe bed.
I would look for something from Micro Mark or similar lathes. They are larger and can handle larger parts.
I made a spinner for a Friends 1/5 Wild Cat. I had to reverse the jaws to allow them to open wide enough to accept the size of Alu. I needed.
Even doing that I was at the Max size for that lathe..about 3.5 inches or less.
I have the Sherline lathe. It's very good for what it does.. I bought mine from a friend several years ago.
My Main complaint is that its small. You can't make parts that are larger because they wont fit the jaws and the "swing over". that's the space between the jaw center and the lathe bed.
I would look for something from Micro Mark or similar lathes. They are larger and can handle larger parts.
I made a spinner for a Friends 1/5 Wild Cat. I had to reverse the jaws to allow them to open wide enough to accept the size of Alu. I needed.
Even doing that I was at the Max size for that lathe..about 3.5 inches or less.
#73
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (2)
What's nice about the Taig is you can use riser blocks to raise the headstock, the cross slide, and the tailstock and that increases the Taig's total capability to 6.5 " diameter. The Taig's size over the cross slide is 2-3/8" increasing to 3-3/8" with the riser blocks. Everyone has to start somewhere and you can always get a bigger one when you start doing the kinds of projects that require the larger machine, or you can farm it out to someone who has one.
Andy
Andy
#75
Hi Andy & Michael
Take a look at the Harbour frieght lathe. There is a whole web site dedicated to this mini lathe.
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_24151.jpg
Great build Andy.
thanks
Paul
Take a look at the Harbour frieght lathe. There is a whole web site dedicated to this mini lathe.
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_24151.jpg
Great build Andy.
thanks
Paul