Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along
10-29-2017, 07:10 AM
#1352
Progress Report:
Many of the fuselage dowel joints are broken or loose, even though some of these appear to have been pinned with !/8"(?) dowel rod. Note to builders who are contemplating the dowel type fuselage construction ---- maybe you should be pinning with solid carbon fiber rods.
I am considering balsa gussets between the dowels at each damaged joint with a 1/32" a/c ply gusset glued over the joint.
Many of the fuselage dowel joints are broken or loose, even though some of these appear to have been pinned with !/8"(?) dowel rod. Note to builders who are contemplating the dowel type fuselage construction ---- maybe you should be pinning with solid carbon fiber rods.
I am considering balsa gussets between the dowels at each damaged joint with a 1/32" a/c ply gusset glued over the joint.
10-29-2017, 07:15 AM
#1353
Even though most of the joints do not show damage, they have been compromised. Much gentle tweaking and twisting of the fuse showed the flaws.
I have started with reinforcing where the cowl hangs with hardwood tri-stock. Then went to the mid wing mounting block. The block was loose on both sides, so I broke it completely off and CA'd the mount into position. Then I epoxied doublers and then added hardwood tri-stock underneath.
I have started with reinforcing where the cowl hangs with hardwood tri-stock. Then went to the mid wing mounting block. The block was loose on both sides, so I broke it completely off and CA'd the mount into position. Then I epoxied doublers and then added hardwood tri-stock underneath.
Last edited by R/C Art; 10-29-2017 at 07:20 AM.
10-29-2017, 02:31 PM
#1354
well CRAP! My camera quick talking to the computer - it is about 17 or 18 years, so the technology is not quite up to the task any longer. There could very well be a delay in any further pictures displayed here.......oh well 
I will continue with the repairs in spite of this ........
The front landing gear block was also loose. There wasn't much glue joint area and no doubler or gussets - not much room for it as designed. So I flowed some CA into the joints to stabilize them and cleaned the area of epoxy globs. I used steel L brackets to attach the LG block to the fuselage sides - that should keep the gear in place.
I will continue with the repairs in spite of this ........The front landing gear block was also loose. There wasn't much glue joint area and no doubler or gussets - not much room for it as designed. So I flowed some CA into the joints to stabilize them and cleaned the area of epoxy globs. I used steel L brackets to attach the LG block to the fuselage sides - that should keep the gear in place.
11-01-2017, 07:32 PM
#1357
The broken dowel joints were CA'd in place.
The torn covering has bee reinforced with a strip of solartex ironed to the inside of the fuse covering. The paint will be touched up after all the woodwork is done.
Balsa gussets for the two stab saddle/fuselage joints have been glued in and reinforced with 1/32' a/c ply.
So far so good.
The torn covering has bee reinforced with a strip of solartex ironed to the inside of the fuse covering. The paint will be touched up after all the woodwork is done.
Balsa gussets for the two stab saddle/fuselage joints have been glued in and reinforced with 1/32' a/c ply.
So far so good.
Last edited by R/C Art; 11-01-2017 at 07:38 PM.
11-04-2017, 09:57 PM
#1364
Oh. I see. Well, shouldn't they just call it "giant R/C planes?" Why do they use the word "scale?"
Last edited by born2build; 11-05-2017 at 01:08 AM.
11-05-2017, 04:00 AM
#1365
There are many facets to our hobby, building and flying "scale" models is just a small part of it. I once built a Goldberg Chipmunk many years ago and thought that I was flying a scale model airplane, when after a little research I realized that the model was far from being scale - the model's fuselage was slab sided where as the full size plane that Art Scholl flew had an oval shaped fuse - that is just one difference, there are many other items on that model that were "non scale".
This thread was started by Del Johnson who was building the Glenn Torrance Models 1/3 scale DR1 prototype. Glenn's designed closely followed the full scale structure and as he designed and produced the parts he sent them to Del and Del showed how the model went together. There are differences in structure because after all it is a flying model, but the outline is nearly perfect, based on historical drawings and other references that Glenn used.
So you can see, the model is not only big at 1/3 the size of the original airplane, but also replicates the original better than any DR1 kit on the market.
.....I'll get of my soap box now. That is a nice looking model. How does it fly?
This thread was started by Del Johnson who was building the Glenn Torrance Models 1/3 scale DR1 prototype. Glenn's designed closely followed the full scale structure and as he designed and produced the parts he sent them to Del and Del showed how the model went together. There are differences in structure because after all it is a flying model, but the outline is nearly perfect, based on historical drawings and other references that Glenn used.
So you can see, the model is not only big at 1/3 the size of the original airplane, but also replicates the original better than any DR1 kit on the market.
.....I'll get of my soap box now. That is a nice looking model. How does it fly?
11-05-2017, 06:24 AM
#1366
[Thanks. Glad you like it. Hardly 100% scale, it's from a Great Planes T-craft kit. I converted it to use the new (ish) O.S. outrunners. Unfortunately, I don't have a way to the field at this time, so I'm on kind of a building kick. I'll just have to wait for test flying until later.
Scale R/C models are fraught with compromises in order to make them flyable. Larger tail feathers, different airfoils, longer moment arms, etc. Even Nick Ziroli will admit his designs are not exact scale. As I do not compete in scale contests, I'm okay with that, as long as it captures the essence of the prototype without looking like a reflection in a funhouse mirror.
I still have a Sig Ryan kit I bought back in the '80's. It boasts a !00% scale outline. One of these days...
attach]2243665[/attach]That is a Gee Bee Model E from a Dumas kit. Designed for Rubber scale, I converted it to 3-channel electric. With a 30" wing span, she tips the scales at a whopping 7.3 ounces! Also yet to be flown.I have another one to build with more detail. I may do it free-flight. we'll see. Well, I have a Sig Rascal on the bench that ain't gonna finish itself so, gotta go!
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So many airplanes, only one lifetime.
Scale R/C models are fraught with compromises in order to make them flyable. Larger tail feathers, different airfoils, longer moment arms, etc. Even Nick Ziroli will admit his designs are not exact scale. As I do not compete in scale contests, I'm okay with that, as long as it captures the essence of the prototype without looking like a reflection in a funhouse mirror.
I still have a Sig Ryan kit I bought back in the '80's. It boasts a !00% scale outline. One of these days...
attach]2243665[/attach]That is a Gee Bee Model E from a Dumas kit. Designed for Rubber scale, I converted it to 3-channel electric. With a 30" wing span, she tips the scales at a whopping 7.3 ounces! Also yet to be flown.I have another one to build with more detail. I may do it free-flight. we'll see. Well, I have a Sig Rascal on the bench that ain't gonna finish itself so, gotta go!
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So many airplanes, only one lifetime.
11-05-2017, 09:47 AM
#1369
Progress Report:
The last loose cross member has been repaired. I drilled the center of it and also drilled the longeron. The piece was CA'd into position and the previously drilled holes were opened up just a bit to receive a threaded rod (since the original wooden dowel had not held). The hole was filled with CA and the rod was threaded into place, keeping it in motion until it was seated......about 5 or 10 seconds later and it was securely screwed and glued into place - hopefully locking the joint together forever.
Then the broken seat frame was CA'd back together and glued back into the airframe.
I think that this concludes the repairs to the fuselage.
The last loose cross member has been repaired. I drilled the center of it and also drilled the longeron. The piece was CA'd into position and the previously drilled holes were opened up just a bit to receive a threaded rod (since the original wooden dowel had not held). The hole was filled with CA and the rod was threaded into place, keeping it in motion until it was seated......about 5 or 10 seconds later and it was securely screwed and glued into place - hopefully locking the joint together forever.
Then the broken seat frame was CA'd back together and glued back into the airframe.
I think that this concludes the repairs to the fuselage.
Last edited by R/C Art; 11-05-2017 at 09:51 AM.
11-05-2017, 04:15 PM
#1371
It may be early next flying season - I don't much like the cold winter weather for model flying.
I still have lots to do before the model is flight worthy. Install my receiver and flight battery and check out the control system. Plumb a new tank - a 32 oz. tank in place of the original 24 oz. tank. Lee is bringing a new GT 80 to our Christmas party and that needs to be installed. Oh yeah, the top wing is broken at the upper cabane mounting area, so I will have to tear into the covering to see what that is all about. Oh, and there is a lot of assembly to get the fuse back together again.
Stay tuned..........
11-05-2017, 08:51 PM
#1372
I've been scanning this thread to get up to speed. 11 years and 55 pages (yikes!),that's a lot of scanning. Well, I did spend more than an hour.
I like building, but re-building, yeah, not so much. I have to look at what I don't need to do to get through it. Needless to say, I don't stop landing until everything stops turning. That's something we need to see more of at my field.
I see you're back at it, so I'll leave you to it. See ya!
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Makin' little ones look like big ones since 1959.
AMA #550442
11-07-2017, 08:06 PM
#1373
Progress Report:
I installed my receiver, hooked up the fuselage servos, changed out the receiver switch and installed the airborne battery (1900 ma NiCad). The servos seem to be functioning ok (using the originally installed servos) but the arms need to be centered again - changed from Spectrum to Futaba radio. Will set up the throws and work all that out after the tail is feathers are bolted back on.
I installed my receiver, hooked up the fuselage servos, changed out the receiver switch and installed the airborne battery (1900 ma NiCad). The servos seem to be functioning ok (using the originally installed servos) but the arms need to be centered again - changed from Spectrum to Futaba radio. Will set up the throws and work all that out after the tail is feathers are bolted back on.
11-11-2017, 08:16 AM
#1374
Progress Report:
(turtle speed)
The original tank was a 24 oz. Since I needed to re-plumb the fuel system anyway, I went ahead and put in a 32 oz. tank. That is more in line with the fight times that I would normally fly and it fits in just fine - with a GT-80 24 oz. is just enough for a good flight, but not enough for having a great time toolin' around the sky like we always seem to do on most of our gaggle flights.
(turtle speed)
The original tank was a 24 oz. Since I needed to re-plumb the fuel system anyway, I went ahead and put in a 32 oz. tank. That is more in line with the fight times that I would normally fly and it fits in just fine - with a GT-80 24 oz. is just enough for a good flight, but not enough for having a great time toolin' around the sky like we always seem to do on most of our gaggle flights.