All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

RCU has finally cleaned up their site and now I can get to it on a regular basis. I did nothing to AVG to change any thing so the problem was RCU's.

I got the 1 ½ inch prop from Dumas that I needed to complete the counter rotating pair. A new prop shaft will be used to replace the one with the gouges. Hopefully, that will do the trick, along with the new strut, to stop that screeching noise from the left drive group. You can see how much smaller the prop is compared to the 1 ¾ inch prop. Maybe it will help the performance and run time. I also included a shot of the old Ace cycler I use to monitor my NiCad’s health. Since I don’t run the boats that much, I cycle the battery pack for the R/C once a month. When they loose 20% of their original capacity they get replaced or are about 2 ½ years old, whichever happens first. Check out the difference in drop angle between the old strut and new one. Dan.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Even though it may seem 'counter-intuitive', many times I have seen that going to a smaller prop improves performance significantly. I'm sure you know Dan, but for those that may not, prop size is like the gearing on a car. Too tall a gear ratio, and the motor lugs, overheats, and speed suffers. (It's an inverse relationship. 2.56:1 is 'taller' than 4.11:1) Going to a smaller prop is like going to a lower ratio gear in a car. Of course, it's possible to go to a too small prop as well. And go nowhere.

There is a sweet spot that will be the ideal situation of speed, run time, motor temps. And it really helps if you have a box full of different props to test. That's an expensive proposition when using bronze or brass props. Thankfully, there are inexpensive plastic props that can be found, used for testing, and then a suitable bronze prop substituted for it when the sweet spot is found.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Tom, I took the Corvette up to the lake to give the new configuration a try. First, it was nice and toasty, 103 to be exact. The 1 ½ props worked just great. Performance was a little better and the run time went from a little over 10 minutes to about 14. The epoxied strut joint held as expected but is definitely not removable without a lot of grinding on the mount base. I’m going to be busy for a while so it will be a long time before I get a chance to get up there again. I’ll certainly check the weather prediction before I plan on it. I will send you a PM. Dan.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

It was 107° a few miles north of you. [:@]

I hope this heat breaks for the season soon. I do not go out and play in this stuff anymore.

Good to hear that the new props improved your performance!

Jaymanaa@lak

Just saw this thread, what a great job. Congrats on a wonderful boat, that I'm sure you'll get all sorted out. Sometimes that half the fun right?

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the compliment. I got everything sorted out eventually. Dan.

Jaymanaa@lak

I wish I could find the patience to do something like this. I probably have over a dozen nitro boats, but have never built a single one. I always buy them already built. Sometimes I'll have to do the running hardware, but that's it. I'm recently retired after 37 years of pipefitting, so maybe the time is now. What would you suggest as a starter build? I'm pretty handy, and have built several tube HiFi amplifiers, so I have the tools and stuff, just have never done it? I really admire your work, it must be very satisfying.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for all the compliments Jay. I've been building models since 1945-46 and I am not going to stop just because some guy is making ARFs somewhere. As I tell everyone who is in to ARFs and is dropping out, 95% of the fun is building them. They don't believe me even as they try to sell off all their stuff after a few years. I was an electrical engineer in the aerospace industry for 40 years and I'm still building. I really do not have much experience with boats. I think Dumas is still making kits, maybe some European companies too. Start out with single drive and be sure to get a radio on 2.4. Sorry, I can't help you any more. Dan.

dauntlessfan

Yes there are several Dumas kits good for the beginner. Harbor Models has a good selection of quick build and advanced kits from several manufacturers. Many have difficulty level ratings on the site, and they're always good at providing advice on what to buy based on your skill and interest.

MYTOYSANDHOBBIES

just joined the forum and just put my Chris Craft Corvette in the water today.

I'm still unsure of the power plant - I like the power you are using and any additional info would be great. It's been a while since I did electric.

I raced Nitro for 40 years and had a blast. I had a Chris Craft Corvette in the 60" with 3 Pittman Boat Master, Super Panther motors and loved it.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

There's nothing new to report except that the Astro Flight brushed motors are no longer available from AF. I put the two in the Corvette back into one of the PT boats and the Corvette has been sitting on top of a dresser ever since. They had more power than what the boat was designed to handle and I got a substantial amount of water in the hull after a fifteen minute run. I added a chine where the side of the hull met the bottom but that did not help, Post some images of yours. Dan.

chriscraftfan

Thanks for doing such a fantastic job of documenting your build. I has given the confidence that I might (with a lot of help) be able to restore my barn find Sterling Corvette. As soon as I get past the ten post limit I will start a new thread and post pictures of my barn find. To say that it is rough is probably too generous. Does anyone know of a source for a digital copy of the original print? The original is very badly mouse chewed.