wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

I've come up with a couple of options so far.

Half round balsa. Which would have to be glassed.
Half round from Plastruct. Which is kind of short at 14", would have to piece it to together.
Hard wood dowel cut in half on band saw.

wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

I made a little progress today. All the parts and wood came in.
So I started work on the wheelhouse.


Once it was all rough sanded I started to fit it to the hull.


I started looking at the arrangement and may end up gluing the wheelhouse on and have the engine room and smoke stack cover the only part that comes off. This will help with water intrusion.

wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

Of course the rear deck will have to be removable to access the motor, and steering arm.

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Looking good Wayne. Keep on keeping on.

wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

Just a little progress.


I have also decided to have the entire wheelhouse removable.
For normal operations the engine room top will be held on with magnets and this is where I'll install the switches. Pop it off, turn it on, pop it off, turn it off. Easy.
For service to the motor, coupler, servo and esc the entire wheelhouse can be removed with a couple of screws.

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Wayne,

You really like thise earth magnets. They obviously work well for you.

Bob

wayne d

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Yes I do, they are super strong.

blizard05

The boat bug bit you big time,like they say "you can't just build one" looking good Larry

wayne d

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You got it correct Larry. I've pretty muched stopped fly altogether in about the last year. Pretty much all boats now with my daughter.

wayne d

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Just a little bit done this evening.
Sanded stuffing box to promote a good bond and glued it in using Hysol. I'll let that sit overnight and work on mounting the motor.

blizard05

Are you going to use a reduction gear in the drive line ? You could swing a bigger prop by using one. I am using one in the ORCA Larry

wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

The picture is kind of an illusion. I should maybe only go a 1/4 bigger on the prop.
right now, direct drive.

wayne d

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I was able to swap the motor mounting plate around to give me access to the mounting screws. I then cut a 1/4" ply plate to fit in between the stringers. Once the Hysol is dry I'll put the other two screws in place and the motor is done.

wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

This plate will hold the servo.

And this plate will hold the ESC

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

This place might have what you're looking for. http://www.cowlesproducts.com/protekto_wheel.html

wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

That might work, I'll take a look around and see if I can find some locally. Thanks for the info.

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

If you can't find it localy ,Ebay has it . http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_saca...und+trim&rt=nc

wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

Does anybody have any idea if the Mtronics 25a ESC will be ok for the motor I have?

wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

800 Direct Drive Motor from MFA Como Drills
Top RPM: 5167
Runs on 12 Volts
3 Pole
Maximum amperage draw: 5.28amps
Will efectively propel a 36" deep vee boat with a 2" prop Can also turn props up to 3.5 " @ 2500 RPM
Motor mount included.
Overall Length: 4 1/4"
Can Length: 3"
Can Diameter: 2"
Drive Shaft Diameter: 1/4"
Drive Shaft Length: 1/2"

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Wayne,

Here's some other trim, wood, on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

Bob

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Wayne,

From what you describe about your motor the ESC should be fine. If you want to protect the ESC, put a 20A or 25A auto fuse in the positive leg of the ESC. If you exceed that amperage the fuse will blow instead of your ESC.

Bob

wayne d

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks guys, that's the one ill plan on buying.

wayne d

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Thanks Bob
I keep forgetting about the dollhouse stuff.

wayne d

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Anchor pocket thingy done.
Almost.

rblubaugh

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Gotta put the anchor someplace.